atila_van_den_eynde

<p>Hi Joe,<br>

I have tried healing, cloning and patching but I'm not pleased with these results. It seems like i need a more expert approach on removing this flare because of the texture in the trees and the building behind it.<br>

Thanks</p>

<p>Hi all<br /> I would like to remove the lens flare in this picture with photoshop cs6 but I don't really have a good approach on how to do it. So if anyone can help me out how to handle this it would be much appreciated.<br /> Thanks<br /> Atila<br>

<br /> <img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/17742108-sm.jpg" alt="" width="200" height="133" /></p>

<p>I just finished developing a 120mm delta 100 film and the results aren't what I was hoping for. I developed the film for 12 min. with ilford DDX, agitation was 4 times every minute then used a stop bad for 10 sec, fixed it for 6min, rinsed it and used a wetting agent at the last moment. All my products are about a year old and only used once. Now, 1/3 (left side) of of the entire roll looks like it has been underexposed with strange marks on it the right side sems ok. Do I have a light leak in the camera or did I do something wrong developing this film. Any thoughts would be appreciated.<br>

<img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/17418438-lg.jpg" alt="_DSC0694" width="240" height="500" border="0" /> <img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/17418437-lg.jpg" alt="_DSC0691" width="151" height="500" border="0" /></p>

<p>Okay guys, I took your advice and ordered 5 rolls each just to test them out. As for price, the kodak (3.61EUR/roll) was a bit cheaper then the fuji 4.2EUR) and the ilford (3.99EUR).<br>

Lenny: I saw on your homepage that you have a nice photo shot @ Vernal falls Yosemite, could you tell me what film you used for that and did you use any filters (ND) for this shot. Also thanks for pointing me out to Mr. Ingolfson I might look him up in Iceland.<br>

Cheers</p>

<p>Steve, I would like to develop my own films, I have the gear for it but i only have a 35mm film scanner so that rules that option out and don't worry i won't be leaving the house without my digital camera. I know it isn't a good idea taking the RZ67 setup with me without any good knowledge on how to properly use it. The only thing i can do rightnow is read the manual over and over again because I can't justify not to take it with me :) I will probably hate myself for it if i shoot rolls of film and they don't turn out the way i want it to be but that is a learning proces i don't mind taking, you have to start somewhere no?</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Hello everybody,<br>

I will be travelling for 3 weeks in Iceland by the end of this month and i could use some suggestions on what b&w 120mm film you would use.<br>

I don't have any real experience with b&w film photography, the couple of times i did use it was with illford SFX on 35mm. I really liked how these films turned out, much more then when i would convert my digital shots in post processing. Therefore i decided to buy myself a mamiya RZ67 with a 90mm lens and start shooting film more often. I still don't have the camera right now but it should be arriving any day and I know there isn't much time left to completely get to learn my new equipment but thats something I will just have to deal with (trail and error).<br>

The main subjects i'm aiming for are landscapes, waterfalls and beaches/water with long exposure times and nights shots even if there isn't much night overthere :) so i'm looking for a slow film with high contrast. I'm still deciding on bringing a second filmback for color so any suggestions on this matter would also be appreciated. <br>

Thanks<br>

Atila</p>