blu_dek_lawoe

<p>I agreed. If the condition is right, bright and good contrast. When it's low light, doesn't do good. I took several shots at an old cafe during the breakfast this morning. The most I could get was 2.0 MB and all grainy.<br>

You have to consider the sizes of the sensors between an iphone and a P&S with APS-C camera. I don't want to argue any more. Gees, I know iphone is great, that's why I bought the dogon thing. I'm not knocking on the iphone. We talking cameras here. Come on give me a break.</p>

<p>JDM, Thank You for your info. Very useful.<br>

David, Can you expand on that? Let's take the NEX 7. Thx.</p>

<p>I know this is a madness, but if I can't get it exactly the view I suppose to do, that's worse. That would drive me insane. I'll give an example.<br>

Let say, I have figured out exactly the point of view on the perspective and it's = 35mm lens angle. So I would go to that point in the field, set up the tripod compose. I am using a DX camera, you know that the picture is going to be closer, correct? Then I would back up exactly in a straight line until the entire view is shown in the view finder. That to make up the different for being a APS-C. OK, I can live with that and that what I have been doing. The angle of the perspective is correct. My issue of this whole madness is this. Sometime I can't back up because of the fence or other property, I have to stick the 20mm f2.8 in and that screw me up totally! That's why I have to know my lenses and what it can do and that's why I only have 3 lenses, LOL.<br>

I bought the 18-70 ED II to practice and try to use it but some how the angle isn't quite the same. I think if I get the 35mm f1.8 and the 50mm f1.8, that should cover what I'm trying to do.</p>

<p>If you decide to go with the NEX. I would suggest looking in to it a little more. The NEX 7 is a 24 MP camera and require a good lens which the kit lens 18-55 is not (kinda ngaa) but does OK with the 3c, 5 or 5N with half of the cost. If you want to really get the NEX 7, I would probably get the AE2 adapter and any of the Alpha lenses or get the Zeiss lens. I have a 5 and 5N with kit lenses and happy with both of them. Less expensive for a pocket camera.</p>

<p>Personally, I would love to an APS NEX with 24 MP and a Zeiss lens. That would be sweet. </p>

<p>Not for nuttin' I though you might be interested and don't have to dish out a $1000. An NEX 3 with a kit lens for sale at KEH for $339. I wanted to tell you about the NEX 5N with a kit lens for $400 something dollars but it was gone in a day. Anyways, check it out if you want.</p>

<p>http://www.keh.com/Camera/format-Digital/system-Sony-E-System/category-Camera-Outfits?s=1&bcode=SE&ccode=1&cc=80268&r=WG&f</p>

<p>Exactly. I have tried it with my Sunpak 555, Sunpak 344 and all my strobes (Dinosaur systems). They are all working great. I can't wait to try in the studio setting. How fun!<br>

I have to use the Program setting and adjust the Shutter speed and flash output. What about you? How do you set it up?</p>

<p>BTW, there is a small tiny bracket for a camera and a flash. Should look it up. This way, you'd have a Real Professional Toy set up.</p>

<p>I have an NEX 5 and a 5N. I don't use the touch screen at all (5 doesn't have TS). I love the cameras. Even with the kit lens, 18-55 (Kind of ngaaa lens), I sometimes put it in my coat jacket. If I have the 16mm pancake, I can probably put it in my shirt pocket.<br>

Whichever you decide. Any APS-C sensor mirrorless cameras are all good any way.</p>

<p>I'm a Nikon user and I approved this message, :) </p>

<p>JDM, I am so sure that all of us or most of us here (I think I speak for) started up with Film and did many wonderful things with it. Probably still have one or two film cameras sitting close by within reach and itching to get the hands on them one of these days. Especially me, I've always loved Film. No one hates film here, I don't think.<br>

As for 35mm being 50mm lens questions, yes it is very important for me because of the perspective angle. Each lenses have different perspective angles and you know that. Difference angles, objects are shown differently. That's why it's important to me for what I do, to have clarified some minor technical questions. Not to be overly technical which I don't like to be, for example if I was hired to shoot a building with an exact point of view as selected in the AutoCad perspective view. I most definitely have to figure out EXACTLY where is that point of view and choose correctly by knowing which lens would be right for the shot. That's all. Other wise I wouldn't have asked. I can't afford to wake up one morning and say "ahh, today feels like a 35mm kinda day. Let's go shoot". My clients would send me back to the drawing table so quickly.<br>

When I look at a camera, there is only 2 things I look for. MP amount, sensor size. In addition, now I have to figure out the the angle of the particular lens projecting angle to the sensor and how much it get cropped. Man, confusing. </p>

<p>BTW, how many round do you shoot a week? Wanna compare? Just kidding, LOL.</p>

<p>John, that's why I want to get in to it more. I got the 18-70 to practice with by using on my 20 months old nephew who's never stopped. It's good practicing for me especially when he runs from outside to inside, LOL. I am a manual shooter so it's going to take some work upstairs to change over. I have my eye on the 24-70 f2.8 VR. I think this lens would give me everything I need for my work, and play. I want to do mainly Portrait, people and commercial for now. I do like landscape but that's another conversation all together.<br>

I will try not to change the lenses like a mad man. I am going to keep practicing with the 18-70 ED II. Although I don't like that zoom action at the end. It's kind of weird.<br>

Thanks John. </p>

<p>Blu</p>

<p>My point is the iphone will never be as good as any P&S with an APS-C sensor period. So any P&S with said sensor is fine.<br>

This is with my iphone but I can only get 452 KB from the original file. Includes a 100% crop.</p><div></div>

<p>I have a couple of picture from my iPhone that are 3.7 MB. I can take both of them hugh. What I'm saying most of the time you can't. Everything has to be perfect fro iphone, other wise you get small file. Try chasing a person around the room and see what's the result. I took a lot of iphone photos in the past couple of years. I know exactly what it can do. I didn't just said that just because something to say. <br>

Attached: is full frame 3.0 MB original. I can blow it up and use it for a bill board but most of the time I can't get it when things are moving.</p><div></div>

<p>John, Thanks for sharing the photos. I think for what I do and my preference, I do like them both. For me I would use the 50mm for portraits and 35mm for street shooting, not that there's any particular rule for it. The 50mm does great with portrait, the ears are in the right places. The reason this is my issue because for many many years I only used 3 lenses for everything, 20mm f2.8D, 85mm 1.8D and the 180mm ED. I shoot mainly models comps, some products and quite a few real estates (exterior and interior). I am an artist by trade. My business is specializing in architectural arts, graphic and advertising design. I didn't care much about the technical end of things. When I get a job, I would made sure they are artistically correct according to me, sharp at f1.8 or f11 with good lighting. I would get it done, get paid and put it away. It was part of my business. Now I want to back in photography heavy like glue the camera to my face if need be. This would help me decide which lens to get next. I'm thinking both. I have the only zoom, 18-70 ED II. I am not so sure I'm really happy with it. Sharp, yes but when I need it to go below f3.5 or f5.6 I get frustrated when I have to stop and change the ISO, etc. Thanks guys.</p>

<p>Antonio, film still cool. You're the man.</p>