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ricardo_miranda

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Posts posted by ricardo_miranda

  1. <p>I know this question is 8 years old, but here is an answer to it:<br>

    The Contaflex II had 2 types of meter, the early ones had a different meter from the later production.<br>

    The manual on the Butkus site only shows the later one.<br>

    I suspect Tom has the ealry one shown here:<br>

    <img src="http://www.lyndrup.dk/ken/images/Zeiss%20Ikon%20Contaflex%20II%20862-24%20top.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="274" /><br>

    The lid on the exposure meter has 2 holes and it is used to meter in high light situation and the green range is then used in conjunction with the number that the needle points out. In low light the lid is open and the black range is then used.<br>

    The page where the photo above was taken is here: <a href="http://www.lyndrup.dk/ken/Engelsk/Zeiss-Ikon/Contaflex%20II%20E.htm">http://www.lyndrup.dk/ken/Engelsk/Zeiss-Ikon/Contaflex%20II%20E.htm</a></p>

     

  2. <blockquote>

    <p>It doesn't seem to have been a very popular camera amongst Nikon people, with its plastic shell and lack of creative control.</p>

    </blockquote>

    <p>The EM was the first Nikon to have the construction of a hard metal alloy core wrapped in a plastic shell. 9 years after the EM was introduced, Nikon introduced the F4 with the same basic construction. Due to the plastic shell, a technique was introduced where the basic black plastic receives a coating of a black matte paint. That's what you see in your photo of the top: the paint has wear out revealing the black lustre of the plastic. You can still see vestiges of the black paint around the battery check light. The same technique was employed in all black body cameras at least up to the F90 series.<br /> There's still plenty of control left in the EM: you can do exposure compensation, long time exposures and even work with the camera without any battery. A small trick here: in Auto without batteries, the shutter speed is about 1/1000th sec. Now you have 3 manual speeds!<br>

    <br /> Something some people might not know: the EM was the first Nikon to take advantage of the full AI specification, specifically for flash exposures. An AI lens has at the 6 o'clock position a protrusion or a small tab called the Max Aperture post. The EM was the first to have an internal tab inside the mount to read the position of the max aperture post. That in conjunction with the AI ridge position allows the EM to know what aperture you have set on the lens and to transmit such information to a compatible flash like the SB-E, SB-10 or SB-19. The SB-E has 3 auto apertures for flash that are automatically set on the flash by the EM provided an AI lens is in use. AI'd lenses won't work as they lack the max aperture post. BTW, that's also the reason why said lenses wouldn't do Matrix metering with a F4.<br /> Another innovation introduced on the EM was in the winder: you can now use multiple strokes, instead only one as in FE/FM series.<br>

    <br /> The EM had a series of some interesting accessories like the compartment case FB-E. It was built to transport an EM with or without the MD-E, the SB-E, its 50mm lens attached and the Series E 35mm and 100mm lenses. In the moulded plastic compartment, there is even space allocated to film as it is indicated by the label at the bottom of the case. A series of 3 CF ever-ready cases were also introduced. The -11 is for the normal 50mm lens, the -12 for a short zoom and the -16 can accommodate an EM with the MD-E attached and a normal zoom lens. Another accessory introduced later was a dedicated eyecup shaped in a D: it allows one to open the back without needing to remove it. Although the more recent DK-10 eyecup can be used, it looks a bit out of place on an EM IMHO.<br>

    <br /> As the OP referred, the EM was introduced in 1979 to face the competition from the Pentax ME, Olympus OM-10 and other automatic cameras. In 1981 a small cosmetic change was done: the synthetic "lizard" skin was changed to one identical to the FE/FM cameras, the 2 buttons on the top went from blue to silver and the lens release button received a silver ring. The Series E lens were also changed to have now a metal silver ring where you normally grab the lens, becoming more similar in cosmetics to the Nikkor lenses. The MD-E skin cover was also changed to match the one on the camera. This proves Nikon was paying attention to fashion and to the intended market segment target.<br>

    <br /> The Series E lenses were introduced to provide a cheaper and lighter alternative to the Nikkor lenses. They were simpler designs, normally with less lens elements than equivalent Nikkors and also had "simpler" coatings. I put simpler within inverted comas as that is the word that generally is employed to explain the different coatings in these lenses. In fact, all had coatings matched to the particular design and, at least, the zooms all had NIC coating, according to the respective manuals. They were matched to serve well the EM and the compact cameras based on it: the FG and FG-20.<br /> I really like my EMs, all 6 of them!<br>

    <br /> Thanks John for the splendid photos and those beautiful cars. And you did very well to find an EM with an AIS 50mm (scalloped nose version as it is called by some) for 20 quid!<br /> Enjoy your EM!</p>

  3. <blockquote>

    <p>The amount of conspiracy theories and misinformation on this forum doesn't surprise me anymore.</p>

    </blockquote>

    <p>Oops! Sorry, I meant on this thread! But, yes, there is quite a bit of ill-informed posting.<br>

    Adox is also introducing at Photokina a new Super8 B&W film in 100 ISO. It is meant to be a substitute to Kodak Pan-X. Also a quirky colour film, C41 negative, that is meant for the trendy Lomo market.</p>

  4. <p>The amount of conspiracy theories and misinformation on this forum doesn't surprise me anymore.<br>

    If the gentleman above could go to the APUG and Flickr forums, they would know this is a new film, granted it is a cooperation with InovisCoat, but it is a new emulsion from ADOX.<br>

    It is a coincidence they are releasing it now. They have been working on new films for the last year.<br>

    <a href="http://www.apug.org/forums/forum390/109879-new-photokina-2012-adox-silvermax-35mm-film-135-36-a-2.html">http://www.apug.org/forums/forum390/109879-new-photokina-2012-adox-silvermax-35mm-film-135-36-a-2.html</a><br>

    <a href="http://www.flickr.com/groups/46638350@N00/discuss/72157631286906180/">http://www.flickr.com/groups/46638350@N00/discuss/72157631286906180/</a><br>

    Have a good reading!</p>

  5. <p>Minolta:<br>

    Dynax 7000i, 8000i, 7xi, 9xi, 700si: all can use a Data card or the improved Data2 card. Stores up to 2 rolls if memory doesn't fail.<br>

    Dynax 800si had that capability built in.<br>

    Dynax 7: the same as above, but could use an accessory (Data Saver DS-100) to download the data into a card.<br>

    Dynax 9 was mentioned above.<br>

    Nikon:<br>

    F4 and F5 have a data back that can imprint some info in-between the frames.<br>

    F90, F90X, F100 and F5 can access the Photo Secretary software and download to a PC or MAC the exposure info. There is also the HARtalk cable and associated software that does the same. The software is still available free, but not the cable!</p>

  6. <p>Hi Leo!<br>

    Like you, I have a few F90X and I love them!<br>

    Have you heard of harTALK? It is a special cable to connect the F90, F100 or F5 to a PC or MAC. The company did a software, the SoftTALK 2000 for it and it is based on the Nikon Photo secretary software. The software is free to download and it works on my Win7 32bit PC, but the cable is no longer available :(<br>

    <a href="http://www.cocoon-creations.com/COCOON-NiCommSoftTALK-98-Features.shtml">http://www.cocoon-creations.com/COCOON-NiCommSoftTALK-98-Features.shtml</a></p>

  7. <p>Hi!<br>

    I no longer have any Non-Ai Nikkormats, but used to have a FTn and an EL. I still have a Nikon EL2, but that is an Ai model.<br>

    The problem with the mechanical Nikkormats is explained in this note in a Nikon repairer site:</p>

    <blockquote>

    <p>If you are finding that the exposure meter is 'twitchy' when you turn the shutter speed or iris control, this is a fairly common problem caused by a dirty or worn 'carbon track'. Seventy percent of the time this fault can be cured by cleaning - If not, unfortunately, there is now little that can done as new replacements are no longer available (...).</p>

    </blockquote>

    <p>From the 3 options, I'd go with the FT-2. Good luck and good shooting!</p>

  8. <p>Very nice Dorset fields! Really makes me want to get out of London!<br>

    The F60 is a very underrated camera. And, no, I haven't one! But thanks for the comparison with the F75, which I have!</p>

  9. <p>I've read on another thread here stating that the DK-17 eyepiece for the D2H and others would fit on a F4. I have lost the rubber part of mine and was wondering if they are a perfect match or not?<br>

    I was very admired that the eyepiece of one of my F90X actually fits in the F4, but the thread on the eyepiece is shorter and so I'm a bit worried that it might fell out.<br>

    My question is if someone has any experience of using a DK-17 on the F4 and your feedback. Thank you!</p>

  10. <p>I have 3 of these very solid cameras: an American N8008S, a F801S and an original F801. The F801 is in poor condition cosmetically, but everything works as new! I bought it second hand and I guess the previous owner had dropped it a few times as the top LCD cover has a crack on it and the viewfinder illumination button is missing. No big deal: the illumination still works automatically when it gets dark.<br>

    They are great cameras and I have one of the F801S with the MF-21 which adds a bunch of functions. There are a few things that I would like to see on the F801S: flash modes being accessed from the body, the top LCD isn't illuminated and a power grip. For the first one, I have a SB-26 that does everything one needs from a flash and for the others, they aren't essential to good picture taking!</p>

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