markc1

<p>Lex, thanks for the tip about the credit card sized magnifier, that's a great idea. I actually have a big shot, but I'm not necessarily trying to mimic the Warhol look, just be inspired by it.</p>

<p>Thanks Pete. Another great idea to try!</p>

<p>And yes BeBu, just tried and you can set it between. Just gotta make sure it's far enough away not to snap in place.</p>

<p>Thanks Craig! I don't know why I didn't think of that (probably because the aperture dial "clicks in place" for each stop). I'll give it a try.</p>

<p>John, the flash is mounted on top of the camera. The hotshoe just adds height so it's easier to plug right into the flash and skip the middleman. Off camera flash would be nice, but the effect I'm achieving is "Warhol portrait-esque" (I flip the camera left or right for a vertical composition) so it's a very hard, close pop of light. It's just BARELY overexposed, nearly where I want it but not quite. I just have to figure out how to bring it down one notch.</p>

<p>I shoot from a fixed distance of 3.5ft on instant film (fujifilm 100c).<br>

I recently acquired a Polaroid 600SE and used it for the first time. With the flash at 1/4, set at t f/8 the photos are a touch overexposed and at f/11 they're two touches underexposed. I'm using a vivitar 285HV flash because it has a pc port.<br>

I have limited (basic) knowledge of manual camera use, so am learning as I go. Previous to the 600SE I was using a Polaroid 450, portrait kit and vivitar DF-483 flash (with hotshoe). I liked the overall exposure I was getting from that set up.<br>

How do I get the 600SE set properly? Do I need an ND Filter? Is the vivitar 285HV the wrong flash? I do prefer the pc port over a hotshoe though.<br>

Thanks for any help.</p>

 

<p>I just picked up 120 film today (September 11, 2012) from Walmart. Prior to going there I called Fuji and was informed that 35mm negatives are the ones they do not return. She said they DO return 120 negatives.</p>

<p>I got my 120 negatives back in the envelope today (along with 12 prints) and it cost $1.96 including tax.</p>

<p>I'm in the SF bay area.</p>

 

<p>I just picked up 120 film today (September 11, 2012) from Walmart. Prior to going there I called Fuji and was informed that 35mm negatives are the ones they do not return. She said they DO return 120 negatives.</p>

<p>I got my 120 negatives back in the envelope today (along with 12 prints) and it cost $1.96 including tax.</p>

<p>I'm in the SF bay area.</p>

<p>Michael, thanks so much for the info. I appreciate it. Still learning so every little piece helps.</p>

<p>Thanks again for the replies.</p>

<p><em>Tim</em>, the LCD screen shows what mode it's in and when I tilt the head it still has TTL on the screen. Even once it flashes, the "auto ok" light goes green to show it thinks it was ok.</p>

<p><em>Craig & JC</em>, the overexposure isn't every shot. I just sat here in my chair and tested it by taking photos around my room. Took about 10 or so and NONE of them were overexposed. Bounced it at 45 and 90 degrees. It's 4:30pm right now and I do have some dusk light coming in through the window.</p>

<p>My main concern was that something wasn't working properly in the flash, but it seems more likely that it's just getting "confused" here and there.</p>

<p>I'm in a similar boat as Annalee. I've had an interest in photography (and a basic understanding of the technique) for the past 15 or so years. I never perused it in all those years, but I have strong desire to now.</p>

<p>I actually checked out <em>Understanding Exposure</em> from the library a couple months ago, as well as some older (90s/80s) books to refresh my memory.</p>

<p>To me, there's two sides to it... technique & art. Technique can be taught, art cannot. I've been toying with the idea of taking a course at a community college but haven't signed up yet. I've taken courses in the past, but this was in the mid-90s. I think I just need to go out and start photographing. I'm very interested in photography as a means to record time. I know that's a very obvious/basic way to look at it, but it goes deeper for me. I'm obsessed with history and the past. What Clay said really resonates with me: <em>"View a lot of pictures that you like. Look at them, really look at them. Why do you like them? How are they composed? What elements are there? What would you change?" </em>I constantly do this, always have. I kind of see real life that way too. I'm always noticing angles and light, wanting to record them. Be it an object, building or even person.</p>

<p>Anyway, enough of my ramblings. Does anybody have some advice for someone who's one tiny baby step in front of Annalee? Thanks.</p>

<p>Oh and I do have a camera (a Nikon D5100). I'm having trouble using the Vivitar flash I just got. Posted about that in the hotshoe forum.</p>

<p>The issue with your b&w photo is mentioned in the manual (don't know if you have one). It says:</p>

<p><em>"Several possible causes: One or more white tabs were folded under when you loaded the film pack. Or, you pulled the yellow tab too slowly. Or, there may be dirt on the ends of the rollers; keep them clean. Or, in some way you squeezed the tab slot end of the camera back while pulling the yellow tab."</em></p>

<p>Also, did you bend back the pressure tabs on the door? Those sometimes put too much force on the plastic film case (they used to be metal). Once I did, getting the film out was much easier. I don't know if that would be causing your problems though.</p>

<p>Ok, here's a few test shots...</p><div></div>

<p>Thanks for the replies.</p>

<p><em>Brian S</em>, I was taking photos at my 6 yr old cousin's bday party last night. So it was just random shots (birthday cake, family together, presents.. etc). I'll do some test shots to see if I can replicate it and post them later today.</p>

<p><em>Harry & Craig</em>, on this Vivitar when it's set to "A", the iTTL BL automatically comes on. The only other option is M.</p>

<p><em>Craig</em>, I guess I assumed the same thing, wouldn't have to think about flash exposure. I just want to make sure it's working properly. Got it a couple weeks ago.</p>

<p>I am very green when it comes to technique, so please bear with me while I learn.</p>

<p>I have a Nikon D5100 and a Vivitar DF-383-NIK flash. I keep getting overexposed shots. Doesn't seem to matter if I bounce or keep it straight ahead. Some shots are just fine and others with nearly the same framing are overexposed. What am I doing wrong or what am I unaware of with the TTL flash? Had the camera set on Program and flash on auto.</p>

<p>I looked up online tutorials (watched a couple youtube videos too), but I'm not seeing this particular situation. If someone could help or point me in the right direction I'd be very grateful.</p>

<p>Thanks.</p>