Lauvau

<p>Thanks for answers. <br>

Magic Lentern is probably the best solution. I have download it.</p>

<p>Hello everyone,<br />Is it possible to program a bracketing more than 3 pictures with the 5D Mark II (except in manual mode, of course)? I wish I could take 5 pictures but with a cable release, to make fine HDR.<br />Thanks for advice,<br />L</p>

<p>Hi,<br>

I work my HDR with CRE files, I merge in Photomatix, and then I refine with Lightroom (when converted to TIFF). I realize this process for architectural photography and real estate. My question is simple: I often use a automatic white balance, so the 3 photos are bracketed with very slightly different color/tint. Forward assemble it is preferable to adjust their temperature / tint equally between the 3 photos? Or do a slight difference does not change? When I try I can not see anything, but I would like your opinion.<br>

Thank you,<br>

L</p>

<p>I just bought the 77mm filter, slim in a specialty store in Paris. No vignetting at 17mm. When the filter is set, the anti-reflection coating is truly impressive. No problem of color HDR.</p>

<p>Are you experiencing difficulties in working with a Polarizing Filter in HDR? It complicates the work of the color? Because for real estate photography I see no other solution for decrease reflections. Any tips ?<br /> <br />For example, in attached files, this is a photo I made in HDR without Polarizing Filter, you will see reflections of the lamps, a filter was necessary in this case, right? <br>

<img src="http://s4.postimage.org/8ay2sv1lp/IMG_4.jpg" alt="" width="680" height="454" /></p>

 

<p>okay, thanks. And when the filter is positioned on the device. The camera automatically calculates the loss of light due to the filter (Filter Factor, I think), or should it be done manually?</p>

<p>Hi all,<br>

I search a Polarizing Filter for Canon 17-40 F4 L USM, used on a full-frame 5DII. To be more precise, I make real estate photography and I would like reduce reflections in the windows to have a cleaner HDR files.<br>

I read that I need a filter 'slim' and also a filter 'circular', to avoid vignetting and buggs of AF. I found in B+W <a href="https://www.schneideroptics.com/ecommerce/CatalogItemDetail.aspx?CID=989&IID=3925">this one</a> who seems great. Is this a good choice?<br>

Any advice will be really appreciated.<br>

Bests,</p>

<p>Thanks all for your answers and indications.</p>

<p>Thanks all. Why Canon decided to make a version II of his 24-70 USM L and did not release a II version for his 24-105 L? What are the change in version II, lens is more powerful against the chromatic aberrations, or other?</p>

<p>Thanks for your answer. What do you mean by 'no-brainer'. Sorry but I am french and I can't find any sens by translating with that :)</p>

<p>Hello,<br /> <br />I want to buy the zoom Canon EF 24-105mm f/4L IS USM for my Canon 5DII. I work mostly with a 50mm F1.4 USM, which I find fantastic for my landscapes and portraits, but I want to have more 'focal' available with a single polyvalent lens.</p>

<p>I just wanted advice on this lens? What is his biggest weakness? In F11, the optical quality is it equivalent to that of 50mm F1.4 (roughly) ? The wide angle (24mm) at F11 gives good results? What does the abbreviation 'IS'? My concern is: A fixed focal length of good quality (like 50mm F1.4) it is more efficient (really more?) than a quality zoom like the Canon 24-105mm? (A tricky question, of course).</p>

<p>From my research it is a good lens but I preferred to have some experciences. Thank you in advance for your return, it will be appreciated for choosing my investment.<br /> Best,<br /> L</p>

<p>Thank you for your experience Ted. In other way, are you satisfied with the S100? Have you ever realized some prints of your images, as 15X20inchs size, for example ? Have you noticed a significant default noticable before buying?</p>

<p>Thank you for your answers. This seems to work well.<br />JC thank you for your advice but this kind of camera is too bulky for me!</p>

<p>Hi,<br /> I think buying a Powershot S100. But one element is very important for me. Always the compact camera when you turn 'on' starts with the shortest focal length (24mm or 28mm usually), focal with which I do not photograph. According to a review, the S100 offers the possibility to open the camera directly to a 35mm or 50mm lens. Here is the explanation derived from this <a href="http://www.imaging-resource.com/PRODS/PS100/PS100A.HTM">test</a>:</p>

<blockquote>

<p>And here's an interesting twist: If you've set the zoom via the zoom toggle surrounding the shutter button, the camera will power on to the 24mm setting. Goal if you turn the front dial to set one of the preset values - say 35mm - then power down, the camera will return to setting When you power That the camera back up. The camera remembers the presets, and onscreen displays the value for your reference. So if you want the camera to start up at a "safer" than 24mm setting, set it via the front ring before turning off the Canon S100 (S95 Behaves the same the).</p>

</blockquote>

<p>Have you ever been able to use this function? is it effective? Thank you for your experiences.<br /> Best,<br /> L</p>

<p>Hi Antonio,<br /> Thanks for your advice and the link. It is a meticulous work indeed, and that will not work with all 'type/genre' of photography. This is the technique of digital composition made by Andreas Gursky (!) but for a giant scale.<br>

The other little problem is that by changing the focusing distance point, we change the angle of view of the lense (this is EXTREMELY small, indeed, but it will change anyway). I fear that the different layers can never really align properly? What do you thinks ? I should give it a try ..</p>

<blockquote>

<p>I suppose the reason staking may fail is because the software doesn't find clear transition areas to combine and merge the shots in landscape it it happens for macro images.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>This is the problem which I suspected ... the software is not operational at 100%for this operation ...<br />and the tilt / shift lense are really expensive.</p>

<blockquote>

<p>I some times focus blend for landscapes. I take 3,4 or 5 shots with diferent focus planes and then manually blend them in Photoshop.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>Manually do you have good results? The different images overlap properly? Or the distance of the focus shift from one to each other? What is your process, you superimpose 'layers' in photoshop?<br>

<br /></p>

<blockquote>

<p>It should be the other way around as the 35mm offers higher DOF than the 50mm.<br />Did you try to use the hyperfocal and to focus your lens to the respective distance?</p>

</blockquote>

<p>To answer about the 35mm lense, the problem is that usually when I photograph, I proceed with tripod at F11 and I positions the focal plane of the camera perpendiculary to the ground (as if the bubble level has had at zero), so I have more fields 'close' of the camera, while with the 50mm the foreground is farther from the camera, so more sharp at F11.<br>

For hyperfocal, it's work well. But my intention is to have maximum sharpness across the image ... and not just 'the sharp area".</p>

<p>But I'm generally satisfied to 'landscaping' with a 50mm at F11 (do not worry). By cons with 35mm at F11, the bottom of the photograph is often a little 'fuzzy' but it's not very problematic, it's normal, of course. I just wonder if it is not possible to 'multiply/surpass' the sharpness with this system (!?) and in some cases can be very useful.</p>

<p>The benefit to the landscape or the photo 'outdoor' is about to have a very large DOF (the equivalent of the rule of Scheimflug with a large format camera), of course. Sometime, some situations require 'sharp' elements in the foreground very close to the lense and up to infinity, and the 'focus staking' is maybe the solution, rather than buying tilt/$hift len$e$ etc.. The advantage is having the great and 'true' sharpness of the lens everywhere in the image..</p>

<p>Well, the software looks good. But for landscape ... Any advices? This technique is really effective? People who practice have they already achieved convincing prints and quality?</p>

<p>Hi,<br />I discovered the technique 'focus stacking' for make photos entirely sharp, interesting for landscape and macro photography. This technique consists of assembling multiple images with different DOF of the same photograph. I tried this technique with Photoshop (<a href=" ), but it gives bad results, the selection zones of photoshop are very random, which create joint areas very 'dirty' in the final image.<br />I have not found any topic on photo.net very illuminating on the subject. Some say it's better to move the camera directly to change the DOF, but not touch the focusing ring of the lens, for macro photography it is effective, but for landscape it is impossible. Some of you knows the process to get the best resulting output in landscape? For example if I work with my digital full frame camera and a 35mm on a tripod and I make three photographs that I realized with a focus plan at 3m, 10m and infinity at F8, and I combine is this? I know that assemble the final image will be slightly cropped from the fact that 'the angle of field' changes with the distance of focus.<br />Thank you for your help, <br />Best,</p>

<p>Hello,<br />I need to clean the mirror my 5DII. I dare not touch the mirror with a cloth to cleandust. I wanted to know if it is advisable to use a compressed air spray has anti-dust? There's a risk to the sensor? Or Other? If you know an other trick without risk, I'm interested ...<br />Thank you,<br>

L.</p>

<p>Yes, sorry I forget the message!<br />I photograph a lot of landscape, before with a 50mm and now with the Canon 35mm F1.4 L. Mostly I proceed from a freehand at F8 / F11 and I position the focal plane of the camera perpendicular to the ground (as if the bubble level has had at zero).<br>

But I have a problem with the 35mm F1.4 L. When I take a landscape I noticed that the corners are not sharp and had more chromatic aberation, I do not know if it has is because the DOF is too low (at F8 F11) or if it is because of the objective was not sharp corners? I do not have this problem with the 50mm, it can be because it has less angle fields, close to me out of the shooting.<br />So for your understanding I post some screenshots image I realize yesterday was resizing at 30x40". I hope you will not think I'm not insane, I do not and I hope I was clear. Thanks,<br>

The Exemple, 350s F8 200ISO:<br>

http://imagesby.tumblr.com/post/21016571024</p>

<p>I have the same problem. I have Adobe DNG Converter 6.4, with which I converted my CR2 from my 5DII. By cons, impossible to converting the CR2 from my G1X with this software and therefore impossible to use Camera Raw with pictures of my G1X. What to do?</p>

<p>Everything is explained - what a shame!</p>