richard_comen

Directions for Pota-HC110 developer for processing Tech Pan at ASA 100:

 

In 300 ml hot water mix 1 tablespoon Sodium Sulfite and 1/8 teaspoon Phenidone . I use the set of plastic measuring spoons that come in a set for kitchen use. To the above add 2 ml. HC110 syrup ( measure with a child's medicine syringe found at any pharmacy ).

 

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The measuring spoons mentioned above are just fine, extreme accuracy is not necessary. Filter through coffee filter that is placed in a funnel. Cool to 69 degrees F. Use stainless nikkor tank for one roll only. Discard developer after one roll, ( Phenidone developer oxidizes rapidly and should be discarded after one roll). I place tank in a tray of water that is 69 degrees to keep temp constant. Develop for 6 minutes. After filling tank, rap tank to dislodge air bubbles, then give one gentle inversion over and back. Place tank in water bath of 69 degrees. Agitation: Do not agitate until beginning of third minute and at that time one gentle inversion over and back. Repeat at top of each remaining minute. At end of 6 min., drain, use short stop, and follow with rapid fix for aprox 2 min. Wash as usual, rinse in distilled water for final rinse, then instead of foto flow, pour in rubbing alcohol ( I prefer it to foto flow. It is often on special at pharmacies for 39 cents a bottle ). Let sit in alcohol for a minute or so, discard alcohol and hang film to dry ( no squeegee or sponges as that is a terrible thing to do to wet film). Hang in dust free place. Because of variations of meters, camera shutters, thermometers, and other variables, you might want to adjust your time of development slightly.

 

Since concocting the above brew formula, I have found that it simplifies life to mix 3 liters of the above brew ( use 10 x the brew formula ), filter as above and pour into 8 Oz. Brown glass bottles obtained from a pharmacy. Fill each bottle so that there is no air and screw on top tightly. I have found that using my last bottle 6 months after mixing gives the same results as with the first bottle used right after mixing. All I do is place a bottle into 69 degree water bath and when brew reaches the bath temp, I pour it into the tank.

 

The above gives me the best negatives I have ever made and they print beautifully. The negs may appear a bit thick to some but with split filtration even the most dense appearing highlights print beautifully. The beauty of Tech Pan is that one can take a small portion of the neg and enlarge it to 11X14 with very little loss in quality. In full negative printing the detail is exquisite unlike no other film I have ever used.<div></div>

Jeff, I have been using TP at ASA 100 for years with perfect results with a brew I dreamed up. If you can mix your own chemistry , try this. The only problem is that TP has been discontinued and is totally unavailable. I am down to my last 400 feet of the stuff.

 

Directions for Pota-HC110 developer for processing Tech Pan at ASA 100:

 

In 300 ml hot water mix 1 tablespoon Sodium Sulfite and 1/8 teaspoon Phenidone . I use the set of plastic measuring spoons that come in a set for kitchen use. To the above add 2 ml. HC110 syrup ( measure with a child's medicine syringe found at any pharmacy ).

The measuring spoons mentioned above are just fine, extreme accuracy is not necessary. Filter through coffee filter that is placed in a funnel. Cool to 68 degrees F. Use stainless nikkor tank for one roll only. Discard developer after one roll, ( Phenidone developer oxidizes rapidly and should be discarded after one roll). I place tank in a tray of water that is 68 degrees to keep temp constant. Develop for 6 minutes. After filling tank, rap tank to dislodge air bubbles, then give one gentle inversion over and back. Place tank in water bath of 68 degrees. Agitation: Do not agitate until beginning of third minute and at that time one gentle inversion over and back. Repeat at top of each remaining minute. At end of 6 min., drain, use short stop, and follow with rapid fix for aprox 2 min. Wash as usual, rinse in distilled water for final rinse, then instead of foto flow, pour in rubbing alcohol ( I prefer it to foto flow. It is often on special at pharmacies for 39 cents a bottle ). Let sit in alcohol for a minute or so, discard alcohol and hang film to dry ( no squeegee or sponges as that is a terrible thing to do to wet film). Hang in dust free place. Because of variations of meters, camera shutters, thermometers, and other variables, you might want to adjust your time of development slightly.

 

Since concocting the above brew formula, I have found that it simplifies life to mix 3 liters of the above brew ( use 10 x the brew formula ), filter as above and pour into 8 Oz. Brown glass bottles obtained from a pharmacy. Fill each bottle so that there is no air and screw on top tightly. I have found that using my last bottle 6 months after mixing gives the same results as with the first bottle used right after mixing. All I do is place a bottle into 69 degree water bath and when brew reaches the bath temp, I pour it into the tank.

 

ASA 200 can be achieved by increasing the developing temperature to 70 degrees F. and following the rest of the above procedure. There will be a loss in shadow detail however.

 

The above gives me the best negatives I have ever made and they print beautifully. The negs may appear a bit thick to some but with split filtration even the most dense appearing highlights print beautifully. The beauty of Tech Pan is that one can take a small portion of the neg and enlarge it to 11X14 with very little loss in quality. In full negative printing the detail is exquisite unlike no other film I have ever used.<div></div>

Scott, I have been keeping film and paper developer in pharmaceutical glass bottles for many years. For film, I use 8 oz amber glass bottles. For paper developer I use 1 oz amber glass bottles. These can be obtained from your pharmacist. I had to buy a case of each to obtain them but they work beautifully. I use Ilford paper developer and pour it stock into the 1 oz bottles ( fill until the bottle is overfilled ). If I am going to print 5x7 prints I use one i oz bottle in a small tray and add 12 oz water. For 8x10 I use two bottles and 24 oz water in an 8x10 tray and so on up.

 

For film I use a brew which I make myself using a combination of HC110 and pota and NA sulfite that I mix in 3 liter amounts. It is most unstable if left in air but lasts indefinitely if stored in the 8 oz bottles. I have kept it over a year and it works fine. I use the 8 oz bottles because that is the amount that fills a single roll stainless tank. This is probaboy more info than you want but there is always the delete button. Regards, Richard

PS: If you cannot find the bottles, I have extra and can part with some if you desire.

Ronald, Above you mention not being able to measure 9.7 ml of HC110 syrup accurately but you can get close enough by purchasing at your local pharmacy a measuring syringe designed for measuring childrens medications. I use one that measures 10 ml and is graduated in tenths of a ml. They cost about five bucks. Scientific accuracy is unnessary as there are so many variables such as variations in shutter speeds, meters, thermometers, clocks, agitation and so on. Fortunately things seem to average out and we get proper negs most of the time!

I have been using this stuff since kodak first produced it. It is best not to make a stock soln, it does not keep. The syrup keeps indefinitly. For one roll in a small single ss tank make one portion of dilution B by mixing 300 ml water with 9.7 ml syrup. Use it once and discard it. The stuff is cheap.

 

Richard

I Threw the photo flo into the trash some 50 years ago and since then I pour out the wash water from my SS 35 mm tank and pour in ordinary inexpensive rubbing alcohol ( it goes on special often at 50 cents a bottle), let soak for a minute, then hang film in my old ironing board closet I built into the wall of my darkroom. Never a spot or dust ( well almost never)!

I use Tech Pan for almost all my street Photography. I rate it at ASA 100 and develop it in my homemade brew. My results are excellent and consistent. You can see my results at:

http://www.photo.net/photodb/folder?folder_id=106654

 

If you are interested in making my brew ( It is easy and inexpensive ) contact me at rpcomen@mcn.org