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shawn_harrison

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Posts posted by shawn_harrison

  1. <p>Still pretty happy with my little Canon PowerShot, but it does have its limitations.</p>

    <p>http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x462/sharriso/Layout1/IMG_0733.jpg</p>

    <p>Depth of field used to be easy with film: put a lot of light on it and lower the f-stop. Looked through my camera's manual but nothing about depth of field.<br /> <br /> Does anyone have any tips to share?</p>

    <p>Shawn Harrison<br>

    El Lago, Texas</p>

     

  2. <p>Many years ago a friend showed me the astronaut archives at the Johnson Space Center. We both worked in the training area and I think he was a volunteer caretaker. The negatives were stored in three-ring binders in archival film protectors with a contact sheet for each roll. (And yes we went straight to the July 1969 binder. What a treat that was. They did indeed bracket their shots.) My pictures were laying around my condo -- prints in a drawer, negatives on the coffee table, etc. So I started to organize mine the same way. Went to an art supply store, bought a pen and white ink, and made notes on the contact sheets. Later I found gel pens with white ink. Now when I look at my 40-year old pictures, I have what I need. I have scanned most of them and archiving would have been a nightmare without those notes.</p>

    <p>Shawn Harrison<br>

    El Lago, Texas</p>

  3. <p>Need some help identifying this film. I tried the imageaircraft.com.au/DXsim but I could not get it to match my old Fujicolor negatives.</p>

    <p><img src="http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x462/sharriso/TestScans/IMG_0578.jpg" alt="" width="640" height="480" /></p>

    <p>Here is what I got from DXsim:</p>

    <p><img src="http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x462/sharriso/TestScans/Picture1.png" alt="" width="109" height="209" /></p>

    <p>The answer was Fujicorp, Product "Unused". Am I missing something?</p>

    <p>Shawn Harrison<br>

    El Lago Texas</p>

    <p> </p>

  4. <p>Got a reply from FUJIFILM North America. No surprise, they do not have emulsion info for those products. I tried SilverScan's Superia profile with mixed results. (Most of the other Fuji profiles did not look right.)</p>

    <p>"325" = Fujicolor ?<br />"F-II 636" = Fujicolor 400<br />"F-II 673" = Fujicolor 400 [typo]<br /><br /><br />Shawn</p>

  5. <p>These numbers are printed just outside the perforations. I suspect that "325" is probably ASA 100. There is extensive documentation on the Kodak numbers (like: 5035 = Kodacolor II, ASA 100). Why not for Fujifilm?<br /><br />"325" = Fujicolor ?<br />"F-II 636" = Fujicolor 400 ?<br />"F-II 373" = Fujicolor 400 ?<br /><br />(Besides needing this info for my scanning software, it's a detail I would like to keep with the scans, including the camera, date, etc.)<br /><br />Shawn</p>
  6. <p>Found some rolls of Fuji 35 mm color negative film. The only identifying marks are Fuji, Safety, and the numbers "325", "F-II 636", and "F-II 373". My records show they are from the early 1980s but not what type of film or the ASA.</p>

    <p>I am scanning them and could sure use the information.</p>

    <p>Shawn Harrison<br>

    El Lago, Texas</p>

  7. <p>Thanks for the replies. Yes, 300 dpi is good enough resolution for printing. I will let a printshop do what they need to do (if I need a hardcopy). If my math is correct, I should be able to get about 16 x 11 inch prints. The Plustek will do 7200 dpi, but your comments indicate I won't gain much by scanning that high.<br /><br />But I am still confused by the settings: Original, Scale%, and Output. I have contact prints of my negatives and it looks like I am getting the entire 3.6 x 2.4 cm frame. The film holder has six openings for negatives exactly 3.6 x 2.4 cm and that's what I see on the screen. But the scans don't have the correct aspect ratio: 3.6/2.4 = 1.500.<br>

    <img src="http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x462/sharriso/TestScans/sf2.png" alt="" width="895" height="472" /><br>

    Here's what I got for a couple scans above: 1.472, 1.486, and 1.477. Siverfast's settings give me: 3.5/2.4 = 1.458, meaning my scans are off a little. <br /><br />As I said earlier, I tried unlocking and typing 3.6 in the "Original" field but SilverFast resets everything.<br /><br />So what am I missing?<br /><br />Shawn</p>

  8. <p>Been scanning like a fool for a couple weeks and getting pretty good results from 30-year old negatives. So I looked at a couple jpegs with a viewer/simple photo editing program. They are 3600 dpi, about 5000 x 3000, and about 4.5 MB -- pretty good size. But when I resample to 600 dpi I get an image that is about 800 x 600 and 200 KB. Where did all those pixels go?<br /><br />Am I actually producing a 3.5 x 2.4 cm jpeg at 3600 dpi? Here are my settings:<br /><br />http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x462/sharriso/TestScans/sf1.png<br /><br />My goal is to archive my old photos at a resolution that I can print (if I need to) an 18 x 12 inch photo at 600 dpi. I don't need TIFF files, mainly to save space and I don't intend to PhotoShop them after I'm done.<br /><br />And I am wondering why it says 3.5 cm since 135 camera film is 3.6 x 2.4 cm. I tried unlocking and typing in the fields but SilverFast resets them.<br /><br />Any suggestions?<br /><br /><br />Plustek 7600Ai, vers. 6.05<br />SilverFast Ai Studio (vers. 6.6.2r5)<br />iMac (20-inch, Early 2008) 2.66 GHz Intel Core 2 Duo, OS X 10.5.8<br /><br /><br />Shawn Harrison<br />El Lago, Texas</p>
  9. <p>Interesting! A calibration slide came with the 7600Ai -- I thought it was generic until I looked more closely. It is indeed EktaChrome (from SilverFast). Couple days ago I calibrated but all it said was "You have been calibrated". I think the delta E was 1.0, but nothing else. So I shall try my EktaChrome slides again and select "Positive".</p>

    <p>How did you know that? I don't think I saw that in the 432 pages of documentation.</p>

    <p>And I do not have PhotoShop. I am doing all adjusting and tweaking in SilverFast Universal Launcher. A little time-consuming, but if I can get good results and finish one roll per day I will be happy.</p>

    <p>Shawn Harrison<br>

    El Lago, Texas</p>

  10. <p>Good suggestions I think I tried Kodak Gold, but will try that one again. My engineer brain does not grasp the concept of no profiles for the most common films. And it does not seem like a good idea to build a profile for old KodaColor film that has shifted. Can't wait to start scanning my wife's B&W Ilford FP4 negatives.</p>

    <p>After Prescan, you choose Pos./Neg. There are three choices: Positive, Kodachrome, and Negative. What do I pick if I have (a lot of) EktaChrome slides to scan?</p>

    <p>Shawn Harrison<br>

    El Lago, Texas</p>

  11. <p>Not bad software actually. (Yes I have read the the posts about it.) But after two weeks with it there is something I am not getting. (I have also tried VueScan. But I'd like to focus on SilverFast.)<br /><br />It looks like I need help with NegaFix. You cannot scan negatives without profiles for the film you am trying to scan. However, there are no profiles for the film I am trying to scan: KodaColor negatives and EktaChrome slides. Seems odd to me because these were just about the most commonly used films on this planet.<br /><br />A trip the the SilverFast forums reveals they will not provide profiles for these films. End of thread. And there were several requests by users to remove the NegaFix module or at least be able to turn it off. Not happening. (I tried to post a question about this but unless your post is "approved" it will not appear; my question did not appear.) And yes, I have looked at their tutorial video and PDFs. When I tried, my scans turned ugly even to my eyes. (My wife is a graphic artist and had to leave the room.)<br /><br />Like many of us trying to digitize our collections, most of my film is 40 to 60+ years old. Some has shifted to orange and I'm not sure they can be recovered. Others just need work.<br /><br />Any suggestion?<br /><br />Plustek 7600Ai, vers. 6.05<br />SilverFast Ai Studio (vers. 6.6.2r5)<br />iMac (20-inch, Early 2008) 2.66 GHz Intel Core 2 Duo, OS X 10.5.8<br /><br />Shawn Harrison<br />El Lago, Texas<br /><br /></p>
  12. <p>Very confused. The scanner guide says insert slide/negative emulsion side down. But the image is reversed when I scan in both SilverFast and VueScan. (Previous film scanners did just fine emulsion side down.)<br>

    What part of this very basic process did I miss?<br>

    Plustek 7600Ai, vers. 6.05<br />SilverFast Ai Studio (vers. 6.6.2r5)<br />iMac iMac (20-inch, Early 2008) 2.66 GHz Intel Core 2 Duo, OS X 10.5.8<br /><br />Shawn Harrison<br />El Lago, Texas</p>

  13. <p>Request permission to revive this thread.<br>

    To be fair, SilverFast is pretty good software. Just finicky. It was working fine but today it will not open - crashes with "SF Universal Launcher quit unexpectedly". <br>

    Has anyone found a solution for this?<br>

    SilverFast Ai Studio (vers. 6.6.2r5)<br />Plustek 7600Ai, vers. 6.05<br />iMac iMac (20-inch, Early 2008) 2.66 GHz Intel Core 2 Duo, OS X 10.5.8<br /><br />Shawn Harrison<br />El Lago, Texas</p>

  14. <p>I bought the 7600 Ai and am pretty happy with it. First thing I noticed is when you put a negative in the holder you get the full 36x24 mm frame. Other film scanners I tried had trouble with that and cut off parts of the frame. The slide holder is similar; although I just found out you lose 1 mm (7%) all around a standard 2x2 inch slide mount. What I am not sure of is how to get dust off the inside lenses or whatever. I noticed that on another film scanner -- I put in a clean slide and found dust on the image. I used a little canned air and that helped. I can repeat the comment about the software: "they have dramatically different user interfaces, each with it's own quirks you will either like or hate." Heed the words "quirks", "like", and "hate". For those issues I went to "Digital Darkroom > Scanning > Software.</p>
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