doga_d

<p>Yashica electro 35 GX has only aperture priority mode. Does that mean, it won't fire if the shutter is slow for the selected aperture. What I mean is, let's say in a sunny day at F4 It needs a faster shutter speed than the maximum it has or it would need me to slow down the aperture. If I insist on F4 and press the shutter, would it still take the photo or the trigger would be locked to prevent the over exposure ? </p>

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<p>In my opinion I would stay away from the FG just because one doesn't have to<br>

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<p>Why do you think so ?<br /></p>

<p>Thanks for all the answers.<br>

I am really hazy that can't decide somehow. FM3a is out of game, already reached to EUR 255 :)<br>

FG really appeals me. I used to have one and I was totally happy with it. It was so rare that the max 1/1000 shutter speed become an issue. Okay, had some over-exposed shots but they were fine.<br>

Built quality is not a big deal for me. FG already feels rugged to me. However, I am not sure if this built quality also covers the inside mechanics.</p>

<p>Hey Jim, <br /> Those prices are from Deutch ebay<br /> Only the FM3a is from American ebay, but it will probably won't stay as 100 bucks for too long, since it is ridiculously cheap.</p>

<p>Okay, so now I am about to buy a new nikon camera to use with my 50mm E series lens.<br /> I have three options; FG, FE2, FM3A.<br /> Price difference between FG and FE2 is EUR 68 and not sure if it is really worth it. I still feel like only advantage FE2 offers is 1/4000 fast shutter speed. In long term, what the benefits of FE2 would be, I am not sure.<br /> Another option is FM3A, which is EUR 7 is cheaper than FG for the time being. It is an auction, so probably the price will jump soon.<br /> Also I need to ask if my E series lens would work with FM3A.<br /> So, I am kinda on the fence. Not sure if it is really worth spending more on FE2. What would you do if you were in my shoes ?</p>

<p>- Edit -<br /> I have just had another question. Which of those cameras can I use without battery in manual mode ? It says that FM3a functions without battery and FE2 offers only 1/250. I used to have an FG but not sure if I ever used it without batteries. So, all in all, can I use FG and FE2 at any speed without batteries ? Or those two have the electronic shutter, which requires a battery to function ?</p>

<p>EM only offers auto mode. So, when the metering thinks that you should need something faster than 1/1000, it won't let you take the photo. Likewise, sometimes it may say you need 1/10 under low light conditions, but you know that you would be okay even with 1/30, just for the sake of less blurry shot, and again it won't let you take a photo with your desired shutter speed. Oh and I already have an EM.</p>

<p>Everyone says FE and FE2 are way better over FG. However, what I think when I am investing an analog camera is the following; What makes a good photo is the lens and the film. So, an FE, for example, would just let me reach to faster shutter speeds up to 1/4000. Other than that built quality or other features does not make sense, I think.<br>

Am I wrong ?</p>

<p>Thanks for all replies.<br /> Have one question to reply of Straw man;<br /> Why does one have to use it with non-AI lenses ?<br /> Furthermore, is my E series a non-AI lens ?</p>

<p>I used to have a working FG but now it is not functioning. Tried to get it fixed but didn't work.<br>

Now planning to buy a new Nikon camera, since I already have the 50mm nikon E series lens.<br>

So, FG is way cheaper compared to both FE and FE2. Those expensive ones have fast shutter speed up to 1/4000 compared to 1/1000 on FG and also they feature DOF preview, if I am not mistaken.<br>

Is this all or I am missing some other benefits of FE and FE2 over FG.<br>

Would you pay almost twice as much for FE or FE2 ? If so, why ?<br>

All these aside, can I use my E series Nikon lens with both FE and FE2 in aperture priority mode ? </p>

<p>I am planning to buy a Nikon FG. However, the bottom plate is in a bad condition. I have a mint Nikon EM. Would nikon EM's bottom plate fit on Nikon FG's body ? Any ideas ?</p>

<p>For sure I do have some, just wanted to see what other ideas would pop up.</p>

<p>I've been given an assignment so that I need to take a conceptual photos in a studio. It should be sort of a mini series with a theme.<br>

Any ideas are welcome.</p>

<p>Shutter is closed, so the cycle was done. Foam up there feels a bit sticky but not that much to keep the mirror there, besides when I try to lower the mirror, it does not stay there any goes up there when I release it.</p>

<p>For the first time I was testing my nikon FG in a photo studio and mounted one of those sync devices to control the fill light. At the very first try it worked like charm. However for the second time I press the shutter, somehow the mirror locked up.<br>

Tried to switch to B or M90 modes to release it, didn't work. Removed the batteries, didnt't work, opened the back of the camera, didn't work.<br>

Now it's totally stuck up there and have no idea what to do.<br>

Any suggestion rather than taking it to a shop to get repaired ?</p>

<p>Oh that's cool, thanks so much !</p>

<p>Okay, so right know I'm using 50mm which is perfect for close-up portraits. However, I also want take portraits, or at least upper body, from a distance like 10 meters. For such purpose, what focal length would meet my requirements ?<br>

105mm or 135mm ? Or do I need something longer ?</p>

<p>Alright, thanks everybody for responses.</p>

<p>I'm a bit confused with Non-Automatic Indexing lenses. <br>

As far as I searched, auto metering with NAI lenses were handled by the bodies before but then AI lenses started to transfer the selected aperture value in a different way so that NAI lenses shouldn't be used on AI bodies.<br>

This is what I got, is that right ?<br>

So, the question is, can I use a NAI lens on my nikon FG ? Right now I'm using a 50mm which is probably AI, not sure though. </p>

 

<p>Thanks so much for your replies.</p>

<p>After searching on ebay a bit, ended up with 3 options as d70/d70s, d50 and d40<br>

So, which one would meet my requirement, being able to use the lens with aperture priority mode, so that camera sets the shutter speed automatically.</p>

 

<p>I have a Nikon series e 50mm lens which I'm using wih my nikon FG body.<br /> Planning to buy an old digital body like d80,d40x or something else to use with that lens.<br /> The question is that, which of the above mentioned bodies or any other body that you might suggest, can work with that lens while allowing the aperture priority mode ?<br /> Thank you.</p>

<p>This is the photo of the lens I have, just in case.<br>

<img src="http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/classics/emfgfg20/eserieslenses/images/Series_E_50mmf18s_MKII_A.jpg" alt="" width="440" height="438" /></p>

 

<p>Thanks for all the answers.</p>

<p>I have a 50mm 1.8 manual lens that I'm using along with my Nikon FG analog camera.<br>

Nowadays I'm considering to buy a nikon 3100 or D40.<br>

I do wonder if it's possible my 50mm lens to use on any of these bodies ? If not, is there such a converter ?<br>

Moreover, as you know on an analog camera there is an split image focusing screen. Is it also possible to use any of these on the cameras aforementioned ? So I could focus easily with that manual lens.<br>

Oh and the metering !<br>

Would it work ? I mean I'll be setting the aperture on lens itself, so on the Shutter speed priority mode, would it still be able to do the metering accurately ?<br>

Thank you.</p>

<p>For sure I know that I have to develop and fix the paper after projection :)<br>

By saying "not using the chemicals" in the previous post I was referring to the very early stage of developing the film, since the first answer to my question was full of question mark :)<br>

So, does it worth trying ?</p>

<p>Ain't it clear ? What happens if I treat the colored film as if it's a B&W film, but not the developing part with chemicals, only the printing part onto paper using the projector like machine. Plain to see I think.</p>