paul_k1664875007
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Posts posted by paul_k1664875007
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Advatange's of the F80: layout very similar to the F100, more modern
electronics, reputedly faster (slightly) AF, copatible with VR and G
lenses
<p>
Advantage's of the F90X: sturdy, durable workhorse. Feels substantial
which is easier when working with heavy lenses. AF is fast enough for
me (I shoot fashion with long lenses and moving models, and catwalk).
X synch is slightly faster
<p>
I bought an extra one after I got a F100 with my first F90X
<p>
HTH
<p>
Paul K
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You can attach any flash to you camera, but only not on the prism (of
any type) There's a special gizmo, the 'Flash Unit Coupler AS-1' that
slips on the rewind know, that allows doing so It also doubles as a
hotshoe
<p>
HTH
<p>
Paul K
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1) No motor in the lens like in the AFS types Focussing motor is in
the AF camera's body AF has nothing to do with the display (this only
shows info)
<p>
2) Manual aperture selection is always possible on the lens (only not
with G-type lenses which have no aperture ring) eg for use in M or A
mode With P and S mode aperture has to be fully closed down
<p>
HTH
<p>
Paul K
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As already pointed out TTL does not use the sensor of the flash.
<p>
But there are advantages of using the flash either sensor-guided or
TTL off the camera
<p>
It will eg allow bouncing of an umbrella for a basic portrait setup
without having to buy monoheads and a flashmeter. Maybe not 100%
foolproof, but great wwhen you only starting to experiment.
<p>
Or you can place it in such a position that ugly shadows can be
avoided, as done by many wedding photographers with special
flashbrackets, and the notorious red-eye effect
<p>
With a standard non TTL computerflash, there are few very options.
Metz has a dedicated sensor for the Metz 60CT1, which ao allows
reduction of flashoutput etc (I have one of each gathering dust in a
closet) and use (way off) from the camera. Otherwise it's a matter of
aiming the sensor of the flah and hoping it doesn't get fooled.
<p>
With TTL dedicated flash use off camera on the other hand it is
possible with special connection cords (Nikon SU-17 for the SB-28)
and even slaves (SU-4 for the SB28, though not recommended by many)
to use several flashes hooked up together as eg location units
(that's what I did with the 2 Metz 60CT4's I got in addition to my
60CT1; added advantage is I can swap batteries and powerpack) either
bounced in umbrella's or for direct (toward the object) but not on
the camera/lens axle illumination. No need for a separate flashmeter
as the flash is measured TTL by the camera
<p>
So yours is not a bad idea
<p>
HTH
<p>
Paul K
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It's definitely you.
<p>
The advance-lever doubles as on/off switch for not only the
electronic shutter, but also for the metering. The system goes back
to FE, maybe even the EL.
<p>
Solution is simple, although, considering the kind of 'complaining'
you already do about a film advance lever, you most likely will start
about the added weight.
<p>
Buy a MD-12, will give automatic film transport, so you can keep the
camera where it is when taking multiple shots, and the advance lever
can stay in the off position, as the camera is switched on/off with
the MD-12.
<p>
For me this kind of complaint goes in the same category like 'I don't
like this camera because the corner's of the body aren't round' or '
My nose get's squeezed when I try looking through the viewfinder'.
<p>
Anyway, good luck.
<p>
Paul K
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At the risk of getting of topic, but why do you need a topmodel high
speed AF camera to photograph subjects that allow shutterspeeds
between 1/15th and 1/60th of a second?
<p>
The reason why I started using AF camera's seriously and upgraded
form a F801 years ago to a F100 nowadays, is that modern AF allows me
to shoot moving subjects with long lenses under sometimes not ideal
circumstances (I do a lot of fashion location shooting and catwalk
photography).
<p>
When I want to shoot the kind of static subject that allows such slow
shutterspeeds that I have to use a tripod, I readily fall back on my
FE with mock MLU or F2 with real MLU, both camera's take very little
space in my camera back. For metering I can still use my more modern
camera's, although those aren't 100% failsafe either, as everybody
knows.
<p>
A 600mm AF combo to me seems ideal for shooting things like sports,
but when shooting landscapes or static nature shots, an oldfashioned
manual camera IMHO would do the trick just as good for a fraction of
the money.
<p>
My two cents,
<p>
Paul K
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I never liked the F3.
<p>
So when I heard Nikon was about to stop producing the F2, I rushed to
my camera shop and picked the literally last F2AS they had.
<p>
The reason I prefer the F2 are the tank-like built quality, the 100%
viewfinder, excellent metering and removable viewfinder.
<p>
Hmm, funny enough those could be the reasons to buy a F3.
<p>
So I guess both are excellent camera's, which they are, and the
choice really comes down to personal taste.
<p>
Same with going instead for a FM(2) or FE(2), or a FM3A. Excellent
camera's all and of course all Nikon lenses will fit, maybe with some
restrictions with the lastest AF lenses.
<p>
But there's no denying the old Canon FL and FD lenses are indeed a
bargain, especially considering the excellent quality, and the New F1
or T-90, or even a FTb or EF (the camera, not the lens) are monuments
to the manual bodies Canon used to make.
<p>
Although I use Nikon for all my professional work, I still have a
Canon TX with an old 1.8/85mm FL lens in my closet I love and cherish
and refuse to part with.
<p>
So I guess you are in an enviable position, as you know enough to
know what you don't want, and have a wide choice of excellent
camera's and systems to make a pick from.
<p>
Paul K
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To my great releif Chasseur d'Images has released the details on the
EOS digital camera.
<p>
Hopefully this will put an end to the seemingly endless stream of
rumours and messages Canonites have put on the web in the past time
on dream- and vaporware of what they had hoped that the ultimate
Nikon D-1x and D-1h beater would be.
<p>
In the end it's just (..) another CCD non full frame digital camera
with a 4,48 Mpix, effective 4,16 Mpix chip and 1,3 extension factor.
<p>
Of course Canonites wouldn't be Canonites without finding something
to prove their brand is better then Nikon, so on Dpreview forums
already techies have started discussions of how much more superior
this camera, with expected shipping date only in December 2001, will
be over Nikon as the camera according to specifications will shoot
8fps in 20 shot bursts and have a 1/16.000th top shutter speed.
<p>
As a Nikon user I'm happy the EOS 1D finally has hit the market, just
as I was happy when after several years the EOS 1V finally appeared
to challenge the Nikon F5. It will keep Nikon sharp and force them to
stay awake and, unlike what they have done in the past, not rest on
past glory and achievements.
<p>
It's this continuous competition between these two major camera
manufacturers that has stimulated technological innovations at
affordable prices, which is only to the benefit of both amateur and
professional photographers.
<p>
So I hope some people will finally start taking pictures now, with or
without the latest camera that hit the market.
<p>
Paul K
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You get what you pay for, so don't expect the quality to come even
near that of a top dollar 'normal' 500mm.
<p>
That said, I like my Panagor 8.0/500mm. OK the original Nikon is
better, but as I use the lens only occasionally, I'm not prepared to
hick up the extra money. Especially as I use the lens for fashion
pictures with the emphasis on atmosphere and movement, so the soft
image, limited DOF and doughnut rings in the background don't bother
me.
<p>
You can see examples of pictures shot with this type of lens on the
Street Page of my website at
<p>
http://members.tripod.lycos.nl/fashionpp/ppfashionphotointro.html
I can very well imagine though, that for e.g. nature or wildlife
photography those features can be precisely what you don't want.
<p>
HTH
<p>
Paul K
70-200mm/f2.8 VR AF-S
in Accessories
Posted
Julian, what is worse then being locked in a system without a choice
is not being able to respect someone elses choice.
<p>
If, as Laurel has stated, she is a Nikon person, why keep on
bothering her with Canon?
<p>
Your kind of intolerant behaviour resembles more a kind of religious
fanaticism than an attempt to start a civilized discussion between
two persons with different viewpoints.
<p>
As far as the whole Nikon vs. Canon thing is concerned, I have been
using each system next to each other for over twenty years now, and
each as its pro's and con's, and both are excellent, as are Leica,
Minolta, etc.
<p>
So grow up, it's only a camera for godsake, eventually it's someone
talent that will decide if a picture is worthwhile or not.
<p>
(end of rant)
<p>
Paul K