rastislav__virik

<p>In my country (a la Czech republic) prices went instantly up after fuji's announcement. 400H went up app 15% and 160NS 20%. I still like the Fuji better than portra, but that's just matter of taste :/</p>

<p>You can shoot portraits with almost any focal lenght, depends on what suits your style</p>

<p>It is quite old back, I would suggest buying newer one, but they are much more expensive, also you will have significant crop factor compared to original 5,6x5,6 frame. In my opinion, It is a good way to go digi MF if you have the money for big enough sensor because otherwise you whole range of lenses start to give weird focal lenghts after conversion, wide angles usually suffer the most</p>

<p>50mm 1.4 AIS is one of the sharpest lenses I've ever seen when stoped down to f/5.6. Just don't be too upset when you miss focus at f/1.4, it's very critical and modern screens show actual DOF only around f/3.5. If you wish to shoot often at wide apertures get split prism focusing screen (katz eye or modify nikon K3) and you're fine</p>

<p>Thanks a lot guys. It's clear to me right now. You've helped me a lot :) Mechanics on my lens are pretty worn out. Aperture ring is quite loose and lens underexposes about 0,7 EV (I think this is the reason) and image jumps a little out and back in when I hit infinity and when I shake lens it makes weird vibrative noise. So in addition to that I was really worried if the rotating thing is not another fault, but it's not , so I'm satisfied. I've tested the lens in past couple of days an it gives really outsdandig performance on digital camera, really beautiful bokeh and great sharpness even at F/2. And I'm really looking forward to put it on my film camera and shoot some slides with it.</p>

<p>thx for answer Joe, but I didn't mean that lens barrel extends as the lens is focused closer(of course it does), I meant that in addition of that,front glass element rotates as the lens is focused (I see it on dust particles), and front glass element travels a bit in and out . it is deeper when at close focus, and further at infinity. I've never seen anything like that in my other lenses (35/2 AIS,50/1.4 and 1.8 AIS or 105/2.5 AIS), taht's why I'm asking :)</p>

<p>Hello,<br>

I've recently bought this fantastic 28mm f/2 lens, AIS version. it is in fair mechanical condition, and as I turn focus front glass rotates little bit (but not the filter mount), and it also moves tiny bit in the barrel. Is that normal or it is some mechanical fault? I have other AIS lenses (35,50,105) and none of them does that. Thanks a lot for help. I appreciate it.<br>

Regards,<br>

Rasto</p>

<p>well its not rought(at least I think).It just make the sound. It's like when you use manual focus lens but a little bit louder.</p>

<p>Hello,<br>

I've recently bought 52mm CPLII filter on ebay. It makes a bit shuffling noise when the ring is rotated. Is that defect or just normal thing. Normaly I wouldn't bother at all but it was quite expensive. Thanks for answers and sry for spam :) </p>

<p>Thanks folks,<br>

its what Michael says, there's no screws it is only secured by retaining ring. Maybe I could try to curve it a little bit but I may as well scratch the glass</p>

<p>Hello,<br>

I have several Nikon color filters and some of them are spinning in their frame. Some just a little bit, some are very loose. So I was wondering, is there any cure for this disease?<br>

Thanks for answers.<br>

<em>Sincerely,</em><br>

<em>Rasto</em></p>

<p>old topic but dont wanna create new one, so if I understand it right, in BW photography (film) yellow filter cuts all UV light,that makes sense from this charts <a href="http://www.digitalbooks.de/nikon/systemcd/htm/09/0908a__d.htm">http://www.digitalbooks.de/nikon/systemcd/htm/09/0908a__d.htm</a> , but why would nikon also make L39 UV filter exclusively for BW photography when all people shooting BW have mounted Y48 on daily basis? Will it have some additional effect if I use both Y48 and L39 at the same time?</p>

<p>I'd love to contribute to this topic too. Altrought I've never owned 35/1.4 or 35/2D I've just bought 35/2 AIS in brad new shape and from few shots I took I really love this lens. It's very sharp even wide open if focused properly. People talking about so-so wide open IQ eirther do not focus this lens properly or have really bad samples,but I think it's mostly the first issue. I've seen this with 50/1.4 Ais too, many folks talk about how hazy this lens is wide open but from my personal experience it's sharp,but DOF is so thin at close distances that you often go a little out of focus and there it is,also modern viewfinders show DOF only about F/4 so you really can't see real focus at 1.4. Here are some photos I took today. <a href="http://crazy41.rajce.idnes.cz/35mm_AIS">http://crazy41.rajce.idnes.cz/35mm_AIS</a> (don't geat freaked out,it's in the czech language) First is at F/2,second F/2.8, camera D40, so you can't see corner performance,but who cares about corners at F/2,right? :)</p>

<p>Thanks for all the answers. Just to correct myself film numbers on the edge are there,I thought edge markings are black edges,sorry. I looked at the camera and the shutter unit is working just right so most probably like Tony said I haven't loaded film properly and it is blank for that reason. At least I have clue what went wrong. I will shoot another roll as soon as possible to justify if camera is working as it should. Thank you everyone,determining problem is a huge help so I can avoid these things in the future and minimalize not so cheap film waste. And as someone said, photographer's best friend is a trash can. So I'll keep trying. <strong>Thanks a lot again. I appreciate all your advices.</strong></p>

<p>well, I've put same film, cut from begining before developing and it really turned black, and I am pretty sure that I've used developer first because these bottles are marked. And film edge is blank too. But when film is developed too much it will turn completely white or black? I use older thermometer so I'm wondering if this is not the problem. Or maybe my FA is really dead but I hope it isn't.</p>

<p>Hello,<br>

I need a little help here. I'm a starting developer and I've recently bought HP5+ and developed it today and the film came out totaly blank. I used kodak D-76 at 20°C, 7,5min @ iso 400, agitation every 30 sec. I did everything as usual when films came out very well but this time I have no clue. May it be overdeveloped or it's a bad film? bacause film states 2004 on sides but I bought it new in Ilford 2+1 pack about a month ago.<br>

Thanks for your opinions.</p>

<p>Comparing DX and FX is like comparing apples and oranges. With D700 you get shallower DOF which is good for portraits and candid shot, D7000 will give you more DOF good for landscape etc. I think it really depends on what you're shooting and also your personal preference. DX body will give you further reach on your tele lens but with FX you can work with DOF more creatively. Personally I would buy D700 if I had the money. I have Nikon DX body and Film body an I like film much more. It renders pictures with more 3D feel because of it's shallower DOF,and if you really need more things in focus you can always stop down or use a wider lens. And FX bodies have much bigger viewfinders and I think that fact is very important because your photograph is only reflection of what you see in there. So from my experience it's much easier to compose with bigger one.</p>

<p>Thank you Fred,you are right that AiS lenses are greatly built. 105 doesn't feel right for me. About 135mm I'm pretty sure I want AF version for it's defocus ability,I don't expect much from that ring but it's a nice bonus. In 85mm line I'm still not sure,I've also considered zeiss. This may need some time to think it trough. AF is said to be better but Ais looks very nice too. I've also been looking at 85/2 but I think that faster will have a little nicer bokeh.</p>

<p>OK Andrew,I'll let you know then. But please have in mind that it will take some time,maybe 2 months. I'm not from USA so I'll try ebay and they don't show up very often here.</p>

<p>Thank you guys for your time. I'll buy AF versions,I guess 135mm first and then 85mm. I also bought old AiS 80-200/4 recently,focus is a real pleasure on these lenses but i could use a slightly shallower DOF so now I'm pretty sure I want these high speed lenses even more. And again,thank you for your help.</p>

<blockquote>

<p>bokeh differences are splitting hairs</p>

</blockquote>

<p>Maybe you're right Jose. The biggest problem is that Ais(in good shape) and AF-D costs about the same. If MF cost 2/3 of AF there would be no doubt. That's the main reason I can't decide. But back to the bokeh again,there are tiny differences for a huge price difference,yeah,but I want the best possible. I am made that way :)</p>

<p>I've already read all these things,and seen lots of pictures at flickr but still can't decide,KR has an article about sharpness comparison between 85s with nice pictures,but as a portrait lens I care about bokeh too,AF-D's borders are never sharp but if it has more pleasing bokeh it's thing I can live with. And with 135mm I've decided to go for AF version. DC feature seem to have nice touch to the pictures and everyone says that at F/2 it's much sharper that it's predecessor. Price difference is not so much here,AI-s in mint shape sells from 800-1000 and AF-D about 1000-1100 used but like new.</p>

<p>I could really use a bokeh comparison between 85s to see it on my own. If somebody has them both then please,please.</p>

<p>I agree with you Andrew,It's not a problem to make pic look soft in photoshop and I don't like that hazy dreamy effect either,and 12mp camera has not enough resolution to show skin artifacts so much and so 135 film. Maybe hasselblad H4D has that ability but that's completely another level.</p>

<p>Jose,thanks for the pics,bokeh doesn't really seem to be that perfect but pic 2 seem pretty sharp for wide open. I was almost sure to go for Ais but you have a strong point about AF-D so I'm starting to consider it either and the price difference between those two is almost none.</p>