switchedcraigmageephotogra

the problem is from both PS and Illustrator. The file goes into the print cue but nothing prints and the file processes.

cheers

craig

Anyone know the max print length for the Stylus Pro 10000 with the standard drivers?

I've just been given one and tried to print a 3m long print but it refuses.

Epsons blurb says it'll print upto 30m long depending on software and system but

no info as to how big the standard drivers will handle.

Any help you guys couldgive would be great

Craig

I have had this problem for ages, and the camera has been away to canon to try and sort it, was fine for a few months now its back.

It's been happening with all my lenses and some i've rented, i havent noticed any back focusing just front focusing.

Lenses i have are

canon mk1 50mm/1.8

sigma 20-40/2.8

canon 15mm fisheye

and i've used on it

canon 70-200 f2.8 L

canon 85 f1.8

its been noticable on all lenses even the fisheye occasionally and even when the lens has been stopped down, is really annoying me now and i can afford the camera to be away for 3 months again while they recalibrate..

I've found that fuji slide always goes yellow green when crossed, no matter what you do. I havent used done it in a while but i always used Kodak. you will still get some yellow but it does stay mostly blue/magenta end of the spectrum.

The scanner does have an effect, as does the software. What are you using? I found the old Nikon Supercoolscan 2000 was best, or the Imacons..

From what i've seen on the web, if you do a lot of video encoding (like i do), as well as PS, then a dual processor system is a great choice, but if your just doing PS work then 660 will probably be a more sensible idea...<p>

I've noticed on some tests (maybe see barefeats.com) that dual xeons struggle with some features in PS that aint multi-thread aware.. so bare it in mind.<p>

As we get dual core processors and 64bit OS, PS and others will get more mutlithread so a DP system may be a good investment...

<p>

Some reviews i've found have been at<p>

www.barefeats.com<br>

www.gamepc.com<br>

www.tomshardware.com<br>

www.hexus.net

Ah a hasselblad, very swish, i had an RZ with a fisheye which was amazing but was a pain to lug around, so i sold it and bought some monoblocs and radio triggers... My 1n keeps lookin at me from its camera bag all sad i aint used it in ages.... :-(<p>

Well the 20D's gone off to canon for a check up so we'll see in a month.. but i'll see what this loan D60 does in the meantime.

Thanx for the link jeff i'll check it out..

yeah it is odd hey... i admit it looks a little soft on that upload but everything around that area of the rider is in focus (which is a shock with the damn focus problems i'm having with the camera, i think i manual focused that one...), the blur on him is motion blur.... you can see the movement at the edges when you zoom in. <p>

I'm pretty ticked off actually as i tried a brand new camera in the local shop and it has the same focus problems so i'm guessing has the same blur problem.. What you shooting with jeff you still on film? i'm seriously considering moving back to it and buying a jobo processor for all my personal/bmx stuff..

<p> I've now been told by the camera shop i have to wait 4 weeks for a 'repair' to be done to the focusing, but i can borrow a haggard d60 in the meantime... wooo wooo :-p<p>

As for overpowering the sun, it aint to hard with a couple of 500w/s bowens on a battery pack, set to full power, but they wont fit in a backpack ...doh...

<p>

oh and here is the original uncropped version of the top image...

thanx Jeff thats the most useful answer. I didnt realise the flash duration was longer at 1/1, but even at 1/400th i'd still expect it to be sharper than it is.... it's not a fast rail...<p>

I've been shooting bmx for a while ;-) so have a bit of a clue, but i've just started shooting with digi and am not to happy so far.<p>

I have the L-358 and from what i remember the ratio was about 60% flash so the flash was the main light... I took some pics later in the day with 3 lights and the flash was 100% the main light and i still got it, i think the guns were at 1/4 then.<p>

I could have shot it sans flash but thats not what i wanted to do, also as i say the flashes were set to MANUAL so i have no control over ttl or wireless ratios or any FP option..<p>

I cropped jeff to show the blur more on that upload. I'll upload one of the later ones when i'm home from work.<p>

Despite this i'm having near-focus issues which are driving me crazy.

Ok i've got some issues with focus but that seems to be covered

elsewere on the site. One thing though i cant find mention of is

motion blur occuring when using flash and at high shutter speeds...

<p>

I've been out taking a few bmx pics with two 550ex flashes on radio

triggers set in manual at 1/1 ratio. Despite the shuter speed being 1/

250th i seem to be getting some motion blur on subjects i normally

wouldnt have expected to... And really i wouldnt expect to anyway with

that setup.

<p>

anyone any ideas or has anyone come across this before?

<br>

<br>

Thanx for the help<div></div>

I think there is still a post on this site with an example i put up of vps... Last time i tried it with some super old stock it did come out quite blue/green, i think it's just like that....<br>

I overexposed it 2 stops from the original 160 and then push processed it 2 stops, seemed to work ok...<br>

What are you after in the end result, I also tried agfa portrait at the same time and it produced a nice pink cast...

You can take a color sample near the area you want to adjust then use the paint brush in

color mode and paint over it to get rid of the blue/grey color but it wont get rid of the

specular highlights in the hair...

I've looked at the X series and it appears they will work with the wirless TTL but my mates

shop doesn't deal with Lumedyne or Norman so i'd have to pay full whack for the

packs.....<p>The extra power would be nice though<p>

As i said before i dont always have a chance to meter a flash setup, it's a case of stick it

down fire a few shots then move on or maybe move the flashes around for another quick

shoot.<p>

This is were the Wireless TTL should hopefully give me more consistency and speed over

the Auto settings.<p>

At the moment though I've just moved into a new flat so It'll have to wait if i go for some

new kit over the stuff onm ebay.. I'll let you know what i do and send some samples if i go

for it.

....Well i say i dont want to spend that much but it seems like a good price so if i can sell

my bike i might buy the setup... I've just found a set of Qflashes... a T and a T2 on ebay

with a turbo and an older TTL adapter, how about these if i upgrade the T2 to a T2d and

buy another battery pack and 3 frewires??

thanx for the advice guys...<p>

The main lore here is the Wireless TTL, I dont have much faith in the optical systems that the 550 and metz use also i figure on a bright sunny day and round corners these optical systems are gonna fall over, every other optical trigger i've used in the past has....<p>

I dont mind spending the time to meter the flash (and i hardly ever use the AF) but sometimes I cant really meter with the hand held, so TTL is a great advantage.<p>

At the moment my 540 is doing an ok job for the music/fashion stuff i do but i want to get the lighting off camera and have a bit more power and control.<p>

I had a look at the Norman/Lumedyne systems but they look way to bulky and the lack off the wirless TTL is a major down side really.<p>

I'm not to sure what to do really... A friend in a camera shop reckons about ?1700 to me for the gear i need for the setup, which at the moment (as i'm trying to sort out a flat) isn't really an amount i want to spend (unless i sell my DH bike)...

Has anyone used the setup mentioned above for wireless TTL flash... <p>

I've had a look at a few reviews about the freewires and it looks like it works well, but not

found anything about the t4d. <p>

I'm looking at this as a portable flash setup that I can fit into a (big) backpack to take

around for my BMX and location work. Also as a TTL flash system that will work with a

canon D-SLR if I ever decide to get one.<p>

So has anyone had any experience with a setup like this??<p>

Thanx for the help

ok i've had a little play and have a few examples (took me a while to find a lab that

would do it and not charge me £40 a roll...!!!!)<p>

Basically the two shots are from old kodak VPS i had knocking around and Agfa

Portrait 160<p>

Development wise both shots were rated one stop over and then pushed two (the way

i've heard you should do it).<p>

The contrast has been tweaked a little in Photoshop, the originals are a little flatter

and not so bold, but the colors are accurate to the originals.<div></div>

Having spent 3 years working as a digital operator for a fine art photographer (an guy

called Tom Wood, here in the uk, incase you were wondering) i can vouch for the

Imacon being a fantastic scanner for high quality fine art prints. Compared to the

nikon/minolta/microtek/polaroid, the quality is better for the cash. <p>

Things are sharper, more detail, smoother tonality, fantastic colors, good shadows

blah blah blah all the crap that makes me sound like a sales guy.....<p>

We had a few problem negs drum scanned at a place in london, very good results,

smooth, good detail, no grain, but not as sharp as the imacon scans, basically

because of the gel. Of course grain is apparent in the imacon scans. so its a catch 22.

<p>smooth grainless scans which are a bit soft, or pin sharp scans which show the

grain.<p>

it's obviously up to you but i'd say an exdemo photo/343 (all you need if you only

shoot 120) @ £3000-£2000 is way better value than a Nikon at £3000. <p>

Acros is available in Europe now i think, it's here in the UK so it might be in

Switzerland. It's a really nice film, fine, sharp grain.<p>

I process it in fx39 which gives a speed increase to 200 which handy.<p>

Don't know if paterson chemicals would be available over there though.<p>

If you can find FX-39 though Tech Pan might be a good choice for film, I've done it

before, rated the film at 25 and deved it with a 1:25 dilution. <p>Worked really well,

maybe a little contrasty but the grain was nonexistent.

I'll also put forward the 343, the Precision 3 is great but if you dont want to scan 5x4

and prints with it then save the money and get the 343 or even a used Photo if your

happy with the scsi connection.<p>

I've worked on both the Photo and an 848, both are fantastic scanners, and work

super well for both B&W and color.<p>

One thing i noticed on the Photo is that the scans from 6x7 were smoother than

those off the 848, probably due to the configuration of the optics and chip. It's not

that the 848 is noisy, Far from it, it just picks out the grain.<p>

So unless you really need the 5x4 format or higher res from 35mm of the Precision I'd

say buy the 343. Best thing to do though is go check them out.

I personally scan from the neg and then tweak in PS so that i get the effect i'm after, but thats no different to me spending a few hours in the darkroom to get the same result on paper.<p> I've personally only found about 3-5 scanners which give me what i want when i scan a crossed neg, most are expensive Pre-Press ones. Many people though are happy with what they get from consumer scanners. <p> Of course a lot of people print then scan the prints<p> I have an older Nikon coolscan (LS-2000) with the older software which is great, I've also used Imacons in the past which are fantastic for crossed work, very 'smooth' images and lovely colors, just need to take out lots of green. <p>

Have fun....

I use EPN mostly for crossing. Nice neutral (for crossprocessing) skintones,

white skin comes out WHITE. No emense color shifts but punchy colors

galore. Overal cast tends to be blue/magenta, once you cut out the initial

green casting. <p>

I scan my negs on my older nikon coolscan (LS-2000) or a friends Imacon.

The nikon gives me pretty much spot on results everytime, the imacon i have

to cut out the green a fair bit, but thats just like hand printing.<p>

I think Hans must work for Fuji, they hate people crossing their films :-)

Heres my 2 pence worth...

You'll probably get something thats prints fine with the 2 stop push but the color

shifts wont match what

you'd get if its rated and processed normally.

<p>

I'm thinkin it'll go more magenta shift like Eric said, more specifically in the shadows

low-midtone ranges. At least thats what i used to get with the 2nd gen Provia 100

(Never had a chance to try the first one). Skintones should still have a yellow cast, but

not as dense i dont think.

<p>

Good Luck and look forward to seein the results

I've used both the old photo and the 848 and they are both fantastic scanners.

Now Funnilly enough a lot of the stuff i've done has been 6x17 from a noblex

and they are just amazing. We had scans made of a particular neg on a drum

scanner as a client insisted on it, and while they were 'cleaner' and 'smoother'

they werent as 'sharp' as the imacon scan, also some of the colors were not

as intense as on the imacon. <p>

The other upside here is no gel mounting so you wont have to clean off the

crap from your negs<p>

the £3000 for the 343 is well worth it, beats the crap out of anything else CCD

based.