roger_shepherd

<p>Thank you all for your answers. I will see about getting it winterized and taking note of how I advance/rewind the film in cold temperatures. The meter settings were all working fine, and as a precaution I changed the battery on the mountain when I was having that issue as well, so I assume it must be to do with grease etc.<br>

Best regards.<br>

Roger.</p>

 

<p>I have an old Canon AE1 35mm camera.<br>

Recently I was using it in the mountains in sub-zero conditions. At some stage the shutter wouldn't release back, so I had to close it with the film advance lever. Now I am off the mountains it works fine. I assumed that some working parts like the material around the curtain got frozen stiff? I changed the battery in the mountain, but same issue.<br>

My question/s is...can sub-zero temperatures have this kind of effect on old cameras like mine? Is there a way to prevent that in future?<br>

Will the affected shots be rendered useless? <br>

Thank you for your time and expertise.<br>

Roger Shepherd.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Thanks, I'll post with them.</p>

<p>I apologise if this question has been asked already.<br>

I run PKS2.0.7 (recently updated from 2.0 - but I think this problem was occurring before I updated) on Photoshop CS6 with a Mac OSX 10.9.5.<br>

When using the creative sharpener tool and select to create a layer, it instead merges an entire layer, so the effect has already taken place, but over the entire image. And then when I apply the brush tool, it instead softens the areas I select - generating the complete opposite effect? <br>

And one more thing. These days when I open up an image in CS6 it arrives in its own separate window with annoying tool bar etc. <br>

Can anyone help out?<br>

Thanks<br>

Roger.</p>

<p> </p><div></div>

<p>Hi.<br>

Using photokit sharpener.<br>

Q: With all my images edited, sized, and sharpened up to the creative sharpener stage with PKS2, do you think I should save a set of the layered copies and then flatten the duplicates before applying the final output sharpener for exporting? Does it matter, is the effect technically any better when output sharpening a flattened image?<br>

Thanks<br>

Roger.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Thanks very much Andrew. Your answer saved me a lot of time and gave me reassurance.<br>

Much appreciated.<br>

Roger.</p>

<p>Hi.<br>

I have changed the dimensions of a landscape photography book I am making. My previous images consist of panoramas at about 68cm x 23.6cm, horizontals at 31.2 x 20.2 and verticals at 16.8 x 23.6 all at 300dpi. My book dimension was 36cm x 26cm. These images have all been processed accordingly through photoshop CS6 using the Pixel Genius Photokit Sharpener (a great too BTW) as a plug-in sharpen tool with CS6. For those that know this tool there are three stages to the sharpening process: capture-creative-output. All my images are currently at the creative sharpening stage awaiting output sharpening for pre-press. <br>

My new book dimension is now 30cm x 22.5cm. So all my images will be reduced to an estimated size of about panoramas 58cm x 20.5cm, horizontals 28cm x 20.5cm, and verticals by 14.6cm x 20.5cm all at 300dpi.<br>

My question is: To save time do you think I can simply and safely reduce the image sizes to the above mentioned sizes using the CS6 photoshop image size tool along with the appropriate constraints, bicubic settings and scale styles settings without losing resolution or damaging pixelation and sharpness. It looks okay on the monitor.<br>

Before submitting to the printer for pre-press and color management, I of course would be sharpening the images again with the final output stage of PKS sharpener with the output sharpener tool. But has the damage been done already with interpolation etc?<br>

Or should I go back and delete all the PKS sharpening layers, resize each image, and then resharpen again - a very long process it will be. That's 116 files.<br>

Or even worse go back to the RAW files and start the 'entire' workflow again? <br>

All answers well appreciated in advance.<br>

Roger.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Thanks fellas</p>

<p>Thanks Jeff. I am considering this program, and I assume it retains maximum dimension and resolution for the photo files which will go through photoshop. How about Adobe Illustrator, any opinion on that?</p>

<p>Anyone got any tips on what editing software to purchase to design the layout for a high quality photo journal book to be commercially resold - it will be self published through an independent printer?</p>

<p>I am going to start using slide film on my very old Canon AE1. I love to take landscape mountain photography. I am wondering what might be a good slide film to use for this subject? The result I am looking for is 'real' contrast and colour, no over-saturation. I like to see the deep dark grain of the granite, and the long shadows of early morning and late afternoon. Also can anyone recommend a good Canon AE1 lens for this type of panorama work. I currently only have a 50mm and 28mm.</p>