jerome_ibanes

<p>Metz 54 MZ-3 Specs: https://www.metz.de/en/service-support/instruction-manuals/flash-units.html<br /> quick specs: http://www.cnet.com/products/metz-mecablitz-54-mz-3-hot-shoe-clip-on-flash-series/specs/<br /> They advertize a 20mm-105mm coverage.</p>

<p>They have different hot shoes for this flash, Pentax, Nikon, Canon, Minolta; which one would be best suited?</p>

 

<p>Does a (used) Metz 54 MZ-3 sounds like a good choice?<br /></p>

<p>My concern was really around the angle of view (86 degrees); which is pretty wide; would most flashes accommodate this?</p>

<p>Which flash is advisable on a Linhof 612PCII with a Schneider f5.6 Super-Angulon 65mm; which has an angle of view of approximately 86 degrees if I'm not mistaken?<br /></p>

<p>I enjoy the sole idea of having only one lens, it makes things so much simpler (and perhaps cheaper?), I don't have to either carry too much equipment or worry about which lens to use. I also found something amazing when using my Rolleiflex for street photography or anniversaries, people love it, and they always look very carefully when I swap a roll, just as if I was performing a magic trick. I think it wouldn't surprise them if a bunny was coming out of the box when I open it to change the roll.</p>

<p>I have rented a hasselblad, a 503cw more precisely; as I was trying to figure out if such camera would be for me, as it's quite an investment (in lenses mostly).<br>

Bottomline, I didn't like it outdoors (or street, anniversaries, indoors), although it's fine (and great) in the studio; with proper light, patience and (very) understanding subject.Yes I know this camera was used by Ansel at some point but... I'm not Ansel, never will be (sigh.) Try to see if you can rent one before you buy, it's really different, you will either love or hate it.</p>

<p>I never had any picture our of frame with my Rolleiflex; as it has parallax compensation (even for macro), I never use a tripod either; sometimes I even do long exposures, I just put it on the ground and use a cord.</p>

<p>TLR works perfectly with kids; or macro, or anything really.<br />I just carry the Rolleiflex with a strap, on one side, the kid on the other, the macro ring and 2 rolls in the pocket; no camera bag.<br /> <img src="http://www.eskimo.com/~jibanes/tmp/2.png" alt="" /><img src="http://www.eskimo.com/~jibanes/tmp/1.png" alt="" /></p>

<p> </p>

<p>Without hesitation, go with the Rolleiflex.</p>

<p>Right, it seems that if digital media is the expected presentation medium, you might as well use fil and scan, not only you will obtain better results, but you will have an archival copy that will outlast you.</p>

<p>Which camera are you using on the Pi?</p>

<p>I bought one on ebay, it was DIY.</p>

<p>I did some scans recently for some landscape work (6x12 negs) of velvia with the V750 and hated the results; which, were comparable to your picture, flat, no tonality. Then I've tried to scan some color film pack (fuji FP-100c) and the results were greatly oversaturated, but of much better quality than the slides aforementioned.<br>

<br />Then I did some B&W scans and the results looked fantastic, using exactly the same setup and software.<br>

<br />This was relatively disappointing, as I don't really need to scan B&W, I can easily (and certainly much faster) make a contact print.</p>

<p>Because so many have been sold, local camera shops which carry used cameras probably has a few; sometimes they offer a 30-days warranty, which would be necessary to make sure that, for instance, film advance works well.<br>

Your hopes of finding a new one are somewhat slim, unless you are willing to pay over a thousand for the body only.</p>

<p>I see, thank you.</p>

<p>86mm or 90mm looks like the diameter of the outer ring, but the diameter of the threaded, recessed female thread really looks more like either a 82 or 83mm, and in this same notch, the lens caps (which is currently broken) is placed.<br>

Is there a document that describes this?</p>

<p>Few more questions about this filter.<br>

<br />* Which size of cap does it takes, I measured 82mm, but it might as well be 83, not trivial to tell.<br>

* Would adding a polarization filter be possible on the Schneider center filter, or would it be visible on film? (if so, again, which size should be ordered).<br>

Thank you.</p>

 

<p>Oh thanks, I was afraid III meant the number of stops to compensate, which would be quite significant.</p>

<p>How should one adjust its exposure when using a Schneider Kreuznach Center Lens Filter III?</p>

<p>I'm confused, how is the lens being held to the body when reversed?</p>

<p>I really like it, did you really reverse the lens?</p>

<p>I would really like to see some macro shots taken with the SL66.</p>

<p>I've always been worried about the rollei strap, please let me know if someone has a good solution on how to make it hold better.</p>

<p>Chuan,<br>

I am unaware of any "cheap" focusing screen, and I can guarantee you that Fototechnik wouldn't be in business if their cameras were not of the highest quality. The default focusing screen coming with the FW is appropriate for most, should you want another screen, 5 models are available; none are cheap; although I am sure it's possible to find some cheap third-party ones.<br>

Honestly, what would be the point of using a good viewing lens if it was to project it on a cheap focusing screen?<br>

Jerome</p>

<p>Dennis,<br>

I think they're both perfectly appropriate, as you know, I use the FW mostly for landscape work, and have little to no need for frames for this specific application; while with the FX I shoot portraits and people, and this requires a more precise alignment, and for this, the frames help tremendously.<br>

Both allow correct and precise focus adjustment, so it really depends on your assignment. I like the fact that I can simply interchange the focus screen if need be, although I have never needed that.</p>

<p>Jerome</p>