david_du_busc

Hey there,

The connector is an standard off the shelf item.

I think I purchased mine at Radio Shack when I made up some new battery packs about 10 years ago. One caution: The original batteries have a sensor to stop quick charging when complete. Without that device, you need to time a quick charge so as to not to fry the cells.

David

I note sure why you are so keen on custom sizes.... unless you want to waste your money. 16x20 Print File sleeves cut in half and then trimmed down have worked well for my 7x17 negs. 30 bucks or so for 100 sleeves>>> which yields 200 after cutting.

You guys sent me shuffling off to the file cabinet saying "I know it's here

somewhere". The Kodak owner's manual is titled "Kodak Master Camera

8x10". Yes, photography is about obsessing.... if it isn't grain size or lens

resolving power, why not camera names?

The term "metal field" would describe the MasterView 8x10.

I don' know that there is a "Master Metalfield". Pictures of the MasterView 8x10 are available on the web, if you have seen the "Master Metalfield" you can compare.

If you're going to apply heat a lens, I suggest you position a goose neck lamp with a 100W bulb close to the lens... be patient... the operative word is gently.

Good luck.

I'm with you Ben, but this ain't no Sinar P. I've done some work to rigidify my Korona 7x17. When you start to consider the number of points where wood meets wood or metal in a device that was made 75 or more years ago, these connecting points start to add up and compound the shake. Those little wooden supports are inadequate, in my opinion. I replaced mine with a pair of extruded metal channels about 28" long. The fitting is pretty basic... two screws properly spaced and tensioned. The ends of the beds should be secured to the channel. This is particularly important if you are using a lot of bellows draw. You might also consider a short set when you're shooting only with the front bed.

If you have a later model with metal in the bed track, you're probably better off, but the tolerances between the bed track and the standard mating piece are well... intolerable. The front standard seems inherently unstable. A support like the Brubaker grabs the top of the front standard and takes out much of the slop. Once again, the more bellows draw, the more important this is.

I guess you could say there's a matrix of weight, time and rigidity find a combination that meets your standards.

An X-rite 603 was recently passed along to me by a photographer who

was vague on the operation of the unit. X-rite was modestly

helpful... the unit has been out of production for about 20 years. If

anyone has a working knowledge of the unit or an instruction manual,

I'd appreciate a copy or the opportunity to ask a few questions.

 

Thanks,

 

David

AIA publishes an architectural guide to Boston> 500 pp $20

The big dig [the most expensive highway project ever] offers new/old opportunities and it's easy to find...look for Bechtel executives with satchels full of cash leaving town for Iraq.

There are a number of HH Richardson buidings starting with Trinity Church in Copley Square [1877]... it's next to IM Pei's Hancock Tower[1976]. Turn around and there is the Boston Public Library done by McKim, Mead & White [1895]... don't miss the courtyard in the BPL...that should get the juices flowing.

Basically, anywhere you turn you can hit a building from 1900 with a stone.

 

Rocky seashore try the north shore of Boston [Gloucester & vicinity] for sand dunes and great beaches [& village life] try the outer cape... Wellfleet, Truro and Provincetown.

 

Rent a car and drive with abandon.... that's what we do.

Flip the bird frequently, scare pedestrians, double park.

... when entering a rotary> keep your head down and don't make eye contact.

 

Eat some Wellfleet oysters & have some fun.

You might consider a vacuum frame. When you get up to 12x20 the contacting process gets a bit cumbersome. Vacuum frames offer easy in > easy out and achieve excellent "contact". I believe you can find used units in good condition for less than a new custom wooden frame.

There may be other factors for you to consider, but having used both, I prefer the vacuum frame.

f8 @ 1/60 and f5.6 @ 1/125 will create negatives of the same density.

I purchased a f12.5 version about 4 years ago, based on the opinion of someone whom I respect. The lens was unacceptably soft at the corners when used stopped down [a polite way of saying..."this lens sucks"]. I was able to return it, in that the owner had claimed it covered the format. My opinion is that covering power varies and there are several versions of the 159mm. There are good ones and bad ones. Test if you can. Cavaet emptor. You might consider purchasing a mechanical iris for your kit... it can be very helpful... you can put a lens on your camera immediately, shoot a negative, and SEE what the lens can do.

PW pro 125 custom cuts from 51" by 5000' rolls... so I don't think the term "cut

offs" applies.

I believe Ilford packages Arista and private labels it, a common retail

arrangement.

William Paul and Associates in White Plains has HP5 and FP4 and custom

cuts at prices equal to PW.

I have used Arista and PW . My experience leads me to believe they are Ilford

films.

The Metrolux timer has a shutter speed tester incorporated into its design. Easy to use. 300 bucks but lots of useful features.

 

B&H and Calumet carry the line, I believe.

I noodled on this a little more. Here's what I think you have: A hot and a

neutral to energize the timer. The hot is also passed through the timer as an

intermittent hot to energize the lamp head. The third wire is the

lead to energize the lamp head on the load [out] side of the timer. Since the

power originates at the lamp head and then goes out to the timer no neurtal is

needed in that it is picked up on the first loop.

Summing up: hot and neutral to the line side of the timer and 3rd wire to the

load side of the timer where the hot would connect [no neutral needed] .

 

 

I think another way to skin this cat> is don't plug the lamp head in directly>

plug in the timer an use the two leads coming off the lamp head without the

the lead that was determined to be hot when you plugged in the head

directly.

This method assumes there is no cold lite that needs a transformer

energized all the time.

 

A napkin and a Sharpie would help here.

The Gralab 300 will only handle 3Amps... if the load is 10Amps , as indicated

by your description of the supply... you got trouble.

Does the lamp head really draw that amount of current?

Eugene Atget once said " A little knowledge is a dangerous thing" and

coincidently A. M. Ampere was a friend of Atget.. put on your rubber boots and

don't be leanin' on any copper pipe while your tinkerin' ... I said that.

Also keep in mind the British [i believe] were responsible for the SU

carburetor and Lucas ignition.

 

Good Luck

How about painters who are [also] photographers?.... I'm

particularly fond of David Hockney's assembled panoramics [for

lack of a better term]. Pear Blossom Highway knocked me out

15 or so years ago when I saw it live, and I still think about it

occasionally. Chuck Close and Edouard Manet come to mind

too. Hockney's recent work about the use of camera obscura in

renaissance painting might lead one to think there were many

painter / photographers ... even back then in Florence.

I can't remember if it was Mick Jagger or Eugene Atget who suggested that if I wanted to appear more "manly" I should use a sock, not my 210 Apo Lanthar. Thanks for the hard facts.

It is fairly standard camera construction for there to be bellows

frames that are glued to the bellows and then attached to the

front and rear standard. It's dark in there, but if you look

carefully you'll find the screws that attach the bellows & frames to

the standards. Pretty straight ahead.

You can send the bellows and frames to the bellows maker , or

they may have the pattern on file.

 

You might try Jim Hormond at Western Bellow [909.980.0606]...

he did a fine job replacing the bellows on my Korona 7x17>

about $225.00.

Also consider Joseph Moyse at Universal Bellows

[516.378.1264] he replaced the bellows on my Kodak

MasterView 8x10 for about $120 about 5 years ago.

I'm not sure Universal is still in business.

 

If your camera set up allows for additional bellows draw,

consider asking the maker to add length to the bellows...

short money ... you may want to use that 30" Artar at some point.

 

Good Luck.

Hey there CP,

For twenty years I've been storing 37 pounds of thorium and lanthanum in a lead clad shed in my back yard.

Please stop by and I'd be happy to donate to the cause.

Three forms of ID, if you don't mind.

Through away the slide rule.

You can use my G4 for some parallel processing on those calculations.

BTW: Bon Ami winds up being an efficient and cost effective polishing agent.

See ya soon.

Whatever your ULTRA...Photo Warehouse [800.922.5484] is a

great resource. FP4+ is available from them Cut to size from

bulk rolls. Hum?...ISO 125 manufactured in England...what could

it be...?

A great topic to get the juices flowing... or is that turkey fat?... don't

forget to skim.

I see a lazy susan incorporated into this... a portrait of the family

chowing down... a curkit turkey.

If I may direct the idea into the depths... hold the stuffin' Ma.

I'm already thinking about a turducken.... furrrrrther>>>

The Art of Retouching &...? by Johnson.

There must be 15 editions of this book. First published in the 30's

You can find a copy at Bookfinder.com for < 10 bucks.