brad_trostad

<p>Hi Everyone!</p> <p>I recently purchased a used Cambo 4x5 view camera along with 5 film holders and a lens board (no lens). Since they didn't have any lenses at the time I ordered a older, in nice condition Schneider 210mm lens. The camera store gave me a sheet of already exposed film to practice loading. I practiced a lot! I ordered a box of Ilford B&W film. Loaded 4 sheets into two holders. Took all four photos and sent off to be processed. The film came back however it took almost 3 weeks.</p> <p>Success!!! All four negatives look "okay" under a loupe. And now I am a bit stuck....I have no way to really see what I captured.</p> <p>I want to see my 4x5's in high resolution on a monitor, be able to do some PS and then print. I currently print up to 13x19. So I feel as if a scanner should be my next expense. But a decent LF capable scanner (V700, V750, V800, V850) are not cheap. Best deal I've seen so far is a refurbished V750 directly from Epson so I would also get the Silverfast Ai software.</p> <p>A bit more background. I started out shooting digital. As a Canon shooter I've been less than happy lately with their direction (that's another topic I guess) so rather than jump ship I took a break from digital last year and bought a old Hasselblad 500cm with a 80mm CF and 150mm CF lens. After a first roll of Velvia I was hooked! My now all time favorite photo (digital or film) is an outdoor portrait of my daughter shot on Tri-X with the 80mm lens. I also helped shoot a wedding (at the groom's request) and we shot two rolls of 120 and I think one of the B&W shots was just stellar and was requested as a print.</p> <p>For the 120 film I bought a cheapo Canon 8800F and scan first. If I find a winner, I have been re-scanning with my 5D2 and 100L macro lens. Its a bit of a pain but they are very sharp, just maybe not the range I was hoping for. And working with negatives isn't as easy as positives.</p> <p>This brings me back to 4x5. I don't want to even start with stitching countless 5D2 shots together (6 shots for 120 was more than I liked). And my cheapo Canon 8800 scanner doesn't have a upper light source large enough for 4x5. I tried doing it in parts but I kept seeing unwanted light getting in and said why bother.</p> <p>So, this early into 4x5 should I invest in the scanner next? Or am I missing something? I think I will eventually develop my own B&W but what good is going there next if I still have no way to see things. Maybe I should shoot some velvia first (but that is expensive all around).</p> <p>Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated,</p> <p> - Brad<br> </p>

<p>What's the price for the lens. I have seen beat up used 150mm CF's go for about $200. In really good shape probably approaching $400+. As the previous response indicated, check KEH - it will at least give you a price comparison. </p> <p>A very nice lens! Kinda long and heavy but worth it if you can find a decent one at or under $350 or so. Pristine would probably be more.</p> <p>Also be sure you are paying CF prices for a CF lens. I could see someone charing CF prices for a C version of the lens.</p>

<p>I have the cheap Fotodiox adapter (see Amazon, about $40) and it works fine mounting my 80mm CF to a Canon 5DII. However, it is very front heavy and the crop is not very welcome. Also, I wish I would have gotten the version which has the tripod mount on the adapter because mounting that heavy zeiss lens, adapter and tripod mounting on the camera body seems like a problem waiting to happen. I think $40 was fair for what it does.</p>

<p>First off, I hope you can find a cheap fix and continue to use gear that you like and are comfortable with!</p> <p>If not, there are a lot of options (way too many) and as you've already noticed - expensive! FWIW, I found a full ikelite housing, dome port and a few port extention tubes for Can 5DMKII for $600 used on scubaboard's for sale column. I have been diving with it for years now with no issues. I now do all maintenance myself. I do purchase additional insurance however each year I lower the amount as the camera body devalues.</p> <p>Another way to think about it is that there are some people who have a lot of $$$$ and can afford to buy the latest cameras and housings and then sell it all again in a few years. I don't know if anything drops in value faster than underwater camera gear. So the point I am making here is to look for used gear on scubaboard's forum and there is also a underwater photography forum that should have classified adds.</p> <p>As for your T2i, I think it is a great UW camera! If you flood it you are out about $275 for the body and whatever the lens will cost you (not bad compared to a $3000 body). It focuses faster than any point and shoot, does great in low light and is fast.</p> <p>The DSLR lens may be a more difficult subject. A lot of people swear by the Canon EF-S 60mm macro for underwater photography on a crop body. Its a great fit. But you're gonna want to add a strobe. For anything other than macro, you typically want a really, really, really wide angle (think 10mm or even 8mm) on a crop body. You will be able to be incredibly close to the subject (which is optimal) and it is great for all the non-macro shots. I dive with a 14mm Rokinon wide angle on the full frame camera and it has worked out great. I have to preset the aperture ahead of time but that's okay. Then focus to hyperfocal and shoot away.</p> <p>If I could start over again today I think smaller would be better. The Sony RX100ii seems to be very popular with a f2.8 lens, you can zoom, its pretty fast, etc. Not cheap but definitely not like 5D3 or D810 or A7R prices.</p> <p> </p>

<p>Giovanni: +1, Those winter shots are awesome!<br> Allan: +1, The Jefferson Memorial shot is perfect. Now I want to go back to DC with MF gear.</p>

<p>Chiracahua National Monument (Winter 2014)<br> HB 500C/M, CF80mm, Fuji Acros, Scanned for with Canon 8800F<img src="http://www.amazonbeach.com/PhotoVideo/PhotoNetSubmissions/HB500CM_SCAN__0097.jpg" alt="" width="668" height="700" /></p> <p> </p>

<p>PIMA Aircraft Museum, Tucson AZ (Winter 2014).<br> HB 500C/M, CF80mm, Fuji Acros. Scanned for web on Canon 8800F.<br> <img src="http://www.amazonbeach.com/PhotoVideo/PhotoNetSubmissions/HB500CM_SCAN__0085.jpg" alt="" width="668" height="700" /><br> <strong>"Peacemaker"</strong></p>

<p>Jens I really appreciate the time you took to break down and compare film vs digital for you! I too first thought your hourly rate seemed high but those are your numbers and work for your business and your included costs. And even if your rate was off somewhat it still illustrates the cost of digital and film may be closer than we think for certain types of work, equipment and process.</p>

<p>Living in the US. All for 12 exposures of 120 film. I don't shoot that much film so I do not develop at home:</p> <p>Black And White Negatives (Fuji ISO 100 ACROS or ISO 400 Tri-X)<br> $26: 5 rolls (Amazon prime, 2-3 days)<br> $45: $9/roll (x 5) lab development (I drop off and pick up 3-4 days later).<br> $71 / 60 pictures or about $1.20 per shot.</p> <p>Color Slides (Fuji Velvia 50)<br> $48: 5 x rolls (Amazon prime, 2-3 days)<br> $60: $12/roll (x 5 rolls) for lab development (I drop off and pick up 3-4 days later).<br> $108 / 60 pictures or about $1.80 for those wonderful looking slides.</p> <p>Color Negatives (Kodak Portra ISO 160)<br> $31: 5 x rolls (Free shipping from Amazon but not Amazon prime)<br> $28: $5.50/roll (x 5 rolls) for lab development (I drop off and pick up 3-4 days later).<br> $59 / 60 pictures or roughly $1 each</p> <p>.obviously Amazon prime helps here but I wouldn't get it just for film purchases.</p>

<p>I paid $50 more than you did for my first ever Hasselblad purchase - a kit similar to yours with the 80mm CF lens. Mine came with the big 45 degree angle prism instead of the waist level finder. I love that angled prism finder but its heavy. I had never owned any film gear before so now after getting into it I believe a kit like that (with the 80mm CF and WLF) should still be a bit lower - maybe $900.</p> <p>This may sound funny, but provided body, back and lens are in good working order I think the price you are paying would be a function of the waist level finder. If it is not a good condition factory Hasselblad waist level finder then I think you are paying too much. The knock off WLF's are rather cheap. I would verify that before the purchase.</p> <p>+1 to the KEH recommendation. I have not used them (yet) but will on future Hasselblad purchases. My last private party purchase resulted in a nice 60's era 500c but the back had a light leak. I also like my local camera store, they have a decent used collection with prices in line with KEH and also have a 30 day return policy. Nice to have with this older manual gear. And nice to have someone to talk to about this cool old gear.</p> <p> </p>

<p>I really liked my copy of the 300L f4 IS. The weight was very tolerable, the built in shade was awesome and the IS was good enough if you ask me. Wonderful out of focus rendering and I really liked the colors and contrast. If it had any fault (besides being a fixed focal length) is that the IS clunks when it engages and is kind of loud. Not wreck-a-wedding kind of loud but the first time you use it you might wonder if something is wrong.</p> <p>I think the 300L f4 IS on a crop camera is a awesome combination. Having that lens on a 7DII would be such a nice setup (with or without teleconverter).</p> <p>I ultimately sold off my crop cameras and 300mm just doesn't seem worth it on the FF. I tried a 70-200 f2.8 and didn't care for that reach or weight.</p> <p>I would think the new 100-400L on the 7DII would be just about perfect. Then use the 6D for wider shots and any really low light photos. And if you have an issue with the 7DII the 100-400 is still a decent focal length on the 6D (for some redundancy). You already have the 70-200L f2.8 IS, very nice lens - heavy though. I know my next 70-200 will be the f4 with IS version. The 2.8 is just no fun to carry around for very long.</p>

<p>I have been using a 500CM with my Canon 430EXII speedlites (up to three) with the RadioPopper JrX. I just mount the Radio transmitter in the cold shoe of the metered prism finder and hook the lens PC sync to the transmitter. Kind a fun to synch at up to 1/500th for a change!<br> I hook the transmitter up to the sekonic first to get the power levels right and determine the aperture and shutter speeds.</p> <p>There are even cheaper radio systems (if you even want off camera flash) but I like being able to adjust all three flashes from one location.</p> <p> </p>

<p>+1 to everyone indicating you are definitely not receiving the scan resolution you should expect for the price you are paying.</p> <p>When I did my first roll of MF I considered having it scanned at decent resolutions using a well known US lab. I am sure they would do a great job but the prices really turned me off. So I started by scanning my MF negatives and slides with a DSLR. I really, really like the results - especially velvia slides. However the process is not any fun for large numbers of scans. And scanning negatives is a bit more of a hassle.</p> <p>So I have now altered my work flow. I searched craigslist and bought a very nice condition used Canon 8800 for $45. It comes with a bare bones tray for 120 film. I know the resolution is not that of a high end scanner or the DSLR scan however I can have previews of 12 shots very quickly at resolutions that are good enough for web. Then when I find negatives I like (say 2 of 12) I then scan them with my DSLR at higher resolutions. Having the scans also helps me with getting the exposure right for the DSLR scan and knowing how dirty they are (and to clean them off) beforehand.</p> <p>My total cost now for this workflow (excluding the 5D2 + 100L) is still under $200 for the used copy stand, light table, Canon 8800F, loupe, blower, etc. I shoot tethered so fine focus and file workflow is a non-issue now. The most tedious part of the DSLR scan is the stitching as I take 6 photos of each. And getting color right for color negatives.</p> <p>If you do go the route of the DSLR scan, I agree that the D800, D810 or the A7r would be a great choice as they are full frame (means less shots at macro level to cover the image) and they have a bit better dynamic range than the Canon's. If you are okay with stitching, the highest resolution imagers would be the 24MP sony APS-C which can be found cheap in a used NEX-7. But they will require more photos (at macro level) to cover the entire negative. And many will point out that these resolutions exceed that of the film grain so factor that into the equation.</p> <p>Unfortunately, all this just makes we want a 50MP digital back even more!</p> <p> </p>

<p>Hasselblad 500cm + 150CF + Portra 400. Scanned with Canon 8800F.<br> <img src="http://www.amazonbeach.com/PhotoVideo/PhotoNetSubmissions/HB500CM_SCAN__0027a.jpg" alt="" width="668" height="700" /><br> <strong>Renaissance Gents</strong></p>

<p>Hasselblad 500cm + 150CF + Portra 400. Scanned with Canon 8800F. <br> <img src="http://www.amazonbeach.com/PhotoVideo/PhotoNetSubmissions/HB500CM_SCAN__0022.jpg" alt="" width="668" height="700" /><br> <strong>Reptile Woman</strong></p>

<p>Hi John,</p> <p>First a question - where are the photographers at - by that I mean are they outdoors all over the place and thus mobile internet will be required? Or are they in offices or studios with access to wired internet?</p> <p>If the answer to the later question is yes, then perhaps they can shoot tethered with the EOS utility and then use another 3rd party software to push the images from the PC/Mac up onto could storage or even simple ftp sites that you can then see at your office. If there is wired internet and I suspect you would be able to see the images from their cameras in less than a minute.</p> <p>I am not a fan of the Eye-Fi cards in the larger bodies. The Eye-fi card needs to be in a CF->SD adapter and between that adapter and these rugged bodies the transfer times for images (especially raws) is quite painfully slow unless very close to the wifi hotspot.</p> <p>Its a bummer that Canon's WiFi product is so expensive (but I bet its reliable). Nikon has those add-on units for like $60 and I suspect Canon's is 10x that amount!</p>

<p>By old and new, I believe there were an older series of all mechanical extension tubes and then a newer series of all mechanical extension tubes. I think the newer series are 8, 16, 32 and 56 and perhaps have a different finish and better flocking (or whatever it is) on the inside. Probably doesn't matter as I would think they are all probably compatible if working to spec. </p>

<p>Sounds like we can rule out anything related to cables (although I found all that information very useful!)</p> <p>I too would think you have narrowed it down to the lens (which you really had done prior to your original question). I sounds like the lens is out of tolerance when it comes to that shaft rotating. Perhaps w/o the extension tube it is allowed to rotate fast enough and far enough to fully handle all the required mechanical actuations. And with at least one tube attached it does rotate (completing some actions) but not with enough force, speed or rotational distance.</p> <p>Perhaps the spring (or tensioning device) in the lens is now out of tolerance. It would appear to have enough force to operate the lens without a tube. But once you add the drag / play of the other shaft(s) in the extension tubes its just not enough to properly cycling everything.</p> <p>Dumb question - are those tubes the older tubes or the newer tubes (or maybe one of each)? Probably shouldn't matter but maybe if they are older they won't work as well with a newer CF lens?</p> <p>Maybe the 120 CF was sitting cocked for about 20 years with out being cycled and now the spring is out of tolerance?</p> <p> </p>

It was my understanding the PC synch and cable fire the strobe via the lens in question - when no extension tube in place. Since the shutter actuation is purely mechanical, doesn't that mean the cable and lens are fine? That's why I was wondering if the shutter even opens in the lens - when fired via the extension tube.

<p>I like shooting video and noticed they might have something more unique in the industry. They can sample 4K video from this larger sensor. Not sure about rolling shutter, moire, etc but perhaps it could lead to some rather awesome 4K video footage, especially given the quality of their lenses.</p>

<p>First things first, I am hoping some experts chime in with their wisdom as I am new to this as well.</p> <p>Just one question / suggestion:<br> - Remove the back and make sure the camera is cocked<br> - Verify the slots are correct and mount the tube on the camera and then the lens on the tube (hope I got that order right?)<br> - Take a picture while looking through the back and out the front of the lens - do you see the shutter open?</p> <p>...from what you described above, unless you actually have photos (which are exposed but just under exposed) it sounds a lot like the shutter just isn't opening at all which would appear to be a PC sync problem. Perhaps there is an issue with the extension tube to your 120 lens (maybe the shaft does not turn enough for this combo?)</p> <p> - Brad</p>

<p>Some Hasselblad perspective from a MF newbie:</p> <p>Price: I picked up a 500cm, 80mm CF, A12 back (matching #'s), 2 x Polaroid backs, PM5 viewfinder and 5 rolls of velvia 50 for US$1000. I was able to see it and operate it first. I'm guessing I could have got that price down maybe to $900 - but I did appreciate the quick lesson on how to use it.</p> <p>For the lens, I suggest the CF vs the C (not for the coatings, rather the newer shutter). I think the 80CF is a bit soft at 2.8 so I don't see a big advantage to it being f2.8 if you find yourself stopping down a bit anyways. That being said, I have shot many times at 2.8 to get the shutter speed higher. You can't do that with a 3.5 lens.</p> <p>For the tubes, I bought my first one a few weeks back. Like a dweeb I bought a longer one. Definitely not for portraits. I think the 80mm lens would be best with a 8mm or 10mm tube for portraits with the 80mm lens. And that does not increase the size very much! Just make sure those short tubes fit properly as I think some of them are not compatible with certain bodies.</p> <p>I appreciate the waist level finder (compact, bright). Yut as clunky as the old PM5 is, I wouldn't be without it. Left to right is correct. The magnification is awesome. I think taking photos with the 45 degree finder puts the camera at a very nice height. Downside to the PM5 finder, huge and heavy and heavy and heavy! the PM5 has a hot shoe mount on top where I mount my radio trigger and I have even mounted a NEX-6 up there to preview the metering and scene (until I found a meter).</p>

<p>Wow Jim, I feel like I can reach out and touch the corner of that chair (or sofa). Totally dig the B&W capture and processing.</p> <p>E.Short, I love the scene and mood of your (1st) shot.</p>

<p>First MF photo with lighting & post processing. Fun setup - mixing old an new tech.</p> <p>Photo: Hasselblad 500cm + 80CF + Portra 160. Scanned with Canon 5D2 + 100mm macro.<br> Main Light: Canon 430EX in large soft box<br> Fill Light: Canon 430EX shooting thru umbrella. (was probably 1 stop too weak)<br> Triggering: Radio Popper JrX via synch cable on lens.<br> Talent: Daughter with interesting fashion sense!<br> <strong> </strong><br> <img src="http://www.amazonbeach.com/PhotoVideo/PhotoNetSubmissions/H500CM_0010a.jpg" alt="" width="664" height="696" /><strong><br /></strong><br> <strong>"Fashion Pirate"</strong></p> <p> </p>

<p>My guess is $1800...$1900 new and will drop a few $$$ after the holidays.</p> <p>The little Nikon wifi module is definitely priced nice and quite nice in size. I sure hope Canon goes there.</p> <p>I tried a Eye-Fi card in a rebel and was ho-hum. I then tried it in my 5D2 (had to be in CF->SD adapter which didn't help) and it was so slow that I decided to sell the little card to a friend that could make better use of it than me. In the end what I liked best was the CF->SD card adapter which I now use all the time.</p> <p>I suspect that little wifi card buried in a rugged body like the 7D2 is not going result in a enjoyable experience. Having wifi built into the device is much better as there is a nice configuration screen on the back vs having to move the Eye-Fi card back to a PC to configure it. I just don't get why they can't use a external antennae somehow.</p> <p>Provided the "leaked" specs are close to what will be announce I must also admit a being a bit let down. I know that 7D2 will be a phenomenal camera, able to take fantastic images and video across all types of subjects, venues, etc. So I am not let down by this particular camera.</p> <p>Actually, the let down is more like "Canon where are you...". Sony is out there developing some great imagers. Their partnerships are probably giving them financial breathing room to go there. So that then lets Nikon (and even Hasselblad) move forward when it comes to resolution and DR. </p> <p>I really, really like Canon products and I just want to see them bring another hit (like the 5D2) to say we are here, we're not standing still and we can innovate. I guess I am hoping they will do that soon now but the 7D2 (unless there's a big surprise) seems like we'll now be seeing 5yrs of this 20MP crop sensor and another 3yrs before another FF. And who knows how long before a industry changing announcement?</p> <p>Aside:<br> Canon - how about a 40..50 megapixel imager. Square. Bigger than 35mm but doesn't need to be quite as big as 6x6. Let me mount my EF lenses on it and crop the image. Let me mount manual focus MF lenses on (and crop the sweet spot of the lens). No mirror. Nice EVF and articulating touchscreen. No video mode (saying a lot from me as I love DSLR video). Rock the low ISO (5), maybe max ISO of 3200. WiFi built in. Maybe a ND filter built in! Price it at about $3699. I will take my stash of Sony A7r money I have saved up put it towards this camera today. I get to keep using all my EF lenses (and have autofocus and aperture). And I can also use my Hasselblad lenses. I'll probably sell my Hasselblad kit and buy more Canon stuff. Come Canon bring digital MF to lowly masses :)</p> <p> </p>