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andrew_becker1

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Posts posted by andrew_becker1

    What about camera straps?

    in Classic Manual Film Cameras

    Posted

    <p>I have a strap with clips which I can easily switch from one camera to another. I believe this particular strap came from a higher-end mid eighties leather satchel of some sort. The strap is the most comfortable one I've come across, and I switch it from camera to camera when I use it. If you're not looking for a strap for each camera, and just something utilitarian for use when shooting, something like that might come in handy for you. If you're looking for something to display them with, I'd really suggest getting the matching straps and having that be the next major addition to your collection.</p>

    Fairchild K-38

    in Extreme, Retro, Instant and More

    Posted

    <p>Well, considering the size of the thing, and the lenses mounted in the Fairchild K-38 are generally around 600mm (Kodak Ektar 36", et cetera) and FIXED focus, I'm pretty certain it would take a fair amount of modification in order to properly use it on a digital camera. Removing the lens from the shutter, making a focusing mount with the proper focus distance, et cetera. If you're serious on doing this sort of thing yourself, it'll be a lot of work. If you want somebody to do it for you, I'm sure SK Grimes would be up for the task.</p>

    electronic printing?

    in Extreme, Retro, Instant and More

    Posted

    <p>Short Answer- No.<br>

    Digital projectors only have a resolution of around 1080p at maximum, which is the equivalent of 2.1 MP. These are for high-end, HD projectors, and even if you managed to get the projector to function as an enlarger, it wouldn't do your fantastic Leica camera justice.<br>

    On the otherhand, for around the same price as one of those HD projectors, you can get a professional grade large-format (24 inch wide) printer which has a resolution of 1200x1200 DPI. For a 60x70 cm print, that's the equivalent of 934 megapixels, which is definitely a little bit excessive. Here's a link to that printer---<br>

    <a href="http://reviews.cnet.com/inkjet-printers/hp-designjet-t120-eprinter/4505-3156_7-35499838.html">http://reviews.cnet.com/inkjet-printers/hp-designjet-t120-eprinter/4505-3156_7-35499838.html</a><br>

    I think the best choice for digital printing is using the technology designed for it. I've explored the idea of projection for printing, but it just has too low resolution to work.<br>

    Good luck!</p>

    Identify This Camera?

    in Classic Manual Film Cameras

    Posted

    <p>I was watching an episode of American Pickers last night and saw that they purchased this older Voigtlander camera for the sum of $65. Since I was interested in the retail value now of the camera, I found the episode and took a screenshot of a closeup of it. Can you identify the camera and tell me how much it's worth?<br>

    <img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8406/8645923406_4cd4b5626a_c.jpg" alt="" width="800" height="450" /></p>

    Volna 3 Helicoid blocked

    in Medium Format

    Posted

    <p>Hi Phillip,<br>

    I have not personally experienced a helicoid blockage in the Volna-3 but I do have some advice on repairing said lens. I have to first start with a disclaimer: doing repairs on your own camera equipment without prior experience WILL destroy the equipment. If you are invested in this and willing to pay to get it repaired, pay for it and don't do it yourself. Now on to what <strong>I </strong>would do if I were working on that lens.<br>

    Initially I would start by removing the screws on the lens mount and removing the lens mount itself. Remember to take pictures so you can put the lens back together. Take pictures from multiple angles at every step.<br>

    I would then start removing screws on helicoid limiting tabs. In most lenses there are two or three "tabs" which keep the helicoid from unscrewing completely. They look like small pieces of metal with two or screws in them bent at a right angle to a long piece of metal. Avoid removing the aperture linkage. Remember to take pictures.<br>

    Once these tabs are removed begin unscrewing the helicoid. Focus towards the shortest distance you can until the focusing ring/mount area is almost completely separated from the lens groups. Place a piece of masking tape on the junction between the two pieces in three separate places spanning from the focusing ring to the edge of the lens groups. Make a distinctive mark on both halves of each piece such as A, B, and C so you can later match up the three pieces. Cut the pieces in 2 on the junction leaving part of each piece on each half and then fully remove the helicoid. This should take little to no turning. Remember to take pictures.<br>

    At this point the "diagnosis" is pretty much up to you. I would check for blockages on both sidDes of the helicoid and try to clear up excess debris and grease, perhaps replacing it with some specialty helicoid grease. Do not try and use any old grease, find something specifically for lens helicoids. I'm sure some of the guys frequenting this forum know exactly where to get it, but I do not. If you remove any more parts, make sure to take pictures before and after.<br>

    Once you've sufficiently cleaned the helicoids and think you have fixed the problem do your best to reverse the process. Line up the masking tape and wiggle the focusing ring left and right slowly with <em>slight</em> downward pressure. Once you feel the helicoid catch continue to screw it in. This may take a large number of tries and 20 to 30 minutes of work. Do not get discouraged. If you correctly marked the masking tape it will work. Do not get too frustrated, if you do, take a break and return later. This is the hardest part of the entire procedure.<br>

    Replace the helicoid stops/tabs how you found them. This can be frustrating because they must align perfectly with the slots in the helicoid. Take your time and look at your pictures when doing this. It will be difficult.<br>

    Replace the back mount how you found it making sure to align the aperture linkage properly. Before screwing in the screws on the mount make sure it is functioning. If you are having trouble, refer to your pictures from earlier.<br>

    Good luck-- hope to hear about some success.</p>

    <p>--Andrew</p>

    To Repair or Replace

    in Medium Format

    Posted

    <p>Hi,<br>

    After using an old Kiev 6C consistently for over a year, it seems that it's beginning to have some issues. Namely, the shutter will fire immediately after cocking the shutter. I was wondering whether I should replace the Kiev 6c with something a little more reliable that can still use the lenses (Pentacon Six TL) or I should repair it. Reasons why? If you say repair it, where can I get it repaired?</p>

    <p>Thanks,</p>

    <p>Andrew</p>

    Mystery Vega 12b Hood

    in Medium Format

    Posted

    <p>In my searches through eBay, I managed to find something very interesting-- An all metal hood for a Vega 12b lens. It has interesting text which is synonymous with the text on a prototype Kiev 11 camera. Here are some photos <br>

    <img src="http://www.ussrphoto.com/Wiki/Content/5151.jpg" alt="some text" width="800" /><br>

    Sourced from ussrphoto.com<br>

    <img src="http://content.foto.mail.ru/mail/ganza56/9136/i-9181.jpg" alt="some text" width="600" height="450" /><br>

    Sourced from ebay.com</p>

    <p>Any insight into what this lens hood is would be greatly appreciated. I've been looking for one for quite a while and would like to know if this is the real deal, and any history on it.</p>

    SLR camera with good support for adaptors

    in Medium Format

    Posted

    <p>I'd personally suggest a pentacon six or kiev body w/lens due to the low price and availability of adapters to the Canon EF mount and nearly anything else popular. It also has the largest selection of lenses of any medium format camera system. Or at least I do not know of anything else.</p>

    <p>Here's a link to a great website if you're interested. They also come in multiple styles and there are around 7 different models of bodies to choose from. More if you come across them.</p>

    <p>http://www.pentaconsix.com/</p>

    500C/M Disassembly question

    in Medium Format

    Posted

    <p>I feel a neccessity to warn you that "cleaning and lubing" a camera isn't as easy as just removing a few bolts. If I were in your situation, and my camera needed a CLA, I would send it in. That being said, the bolt needs a spanner to remove it. You can get them from micro tools or off of ebay. Here's a link to the page with many of them -- <a href="http://www.micro-tools.com/store/~/C-SPN/Spanner-WrenchsLens-Tools.aspx">http://www.micro-tools.com/store/~/C-SPN/Spanner-WrenchsLens-Tools.aspx</a><br>

    Link to a repair manual -- <a href="http://www.scribd.com/doc/3005374/Hasselblad-500503-manual-repair">http://www.scribd.com/doc/3005374/Hasselblad-500503-manual-repair</a></p>

    Kodak Duo Six-20 Lens Cleaning

    in Classic Manual Film Cameras

    Posted

    <p>I'd suggest getting two pieces of rubber, like that you would get from a bike tire tube, and grabbing both ends and twisting. For me, a good grip can usually open these up. Another problem that you could have is that it is a cemented doublet up front, and it is separating, which would be no fun. If you can't get it apart, try a little naptha/lighter fluid around the edge to loosen it up.<br>

    Good luck!<br>

    Andrew</p>

    Purchasing from KievUsa or Arax

    in Medium Format

    Posted

    <p>I've been using a Kiev 6C purchased from eBay for around 8 months with no issues. As long as you follow the instructions, and treat it right, it works really well. I'd definitely recommend a Kiev. As for Arax or KievUSA, I would go with Arax. They seem to have a better reputation.</p>

    Burke & James Panoram 120

    in Medium Format

    Posted

    <p>Hey there.<br>

    So from what I can pull from the internet, this camera is fairly rare, relatively sought after, and does not come on the market often. I found another photo.net thread discussing it, http://www.photo.net/classic-cameras-forum/00TFhl, but it does not include a price, just that one of them "could not afford it". What this means to me is that for a working model, it's up there, above $200, for a decent one. More if you have the original ground glass back.<br>

    I hope I was of some help,</p>

    <p>Andrew</p>

    The Dirk Braeckman look?

    in Black & White Practice

    Posted

    <p>It sort of looks like he underexposed it (around 1 stop) , then developed it normally, and compensated in the darkroom to get that sort of shade. Also, some contrast filters might be able to help you out, but not to the degree that he has it goin' on there.</p>

    Olympus 35 RC Repair Parts

    in Leica and Rangefinders

    Posted

    <p>Hi,<br>

    Today I picked up a Olympus 35 RC with a missing shutter speed dial. The speeds themselves are fine, the shutter works great, the lens is beautiful, the meter works as it should and so does the rangefinder.... but it's missing that dial.<br>

    I was wondering if anybody has a body that's beat that I could salvage a dial from (i'd pay, of course), if I should manufacture my own, or just sell the body on ebay and spend it on something else.<br>

    Any suggestions would be great.<br>

    Thank you.</p>

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