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theo_bern

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Posts posted by theo_bern

  1. <p>Ivan,<br>

    Unfortunately what you see is Silver separation on the prism. There is no way of fungus in the prism, as it is a block of glass.<br>

    What happened is that the prism sides which are covered in a special silver paint, began to separate from the glass. It is like the method that they use to house mirrors and it is not something that you can do yourself.<br>

    Apart from the annoying look through the prism, there is no other issue, and definitely it will not affect your lenses.<br>

    Try to find someone that can resilver it for you or use it as is. </p>

  2. <p>Robb,<br /> Just saw your post here. Send it to me and I will service it for free, squeal, light seals, mirror and everything.<br /> I owe you buddy, and this is the LEAST I can do since you like the camera so much.<br>

    Hope I answered on time, before returning it.<br>

    <br /> Your friend from Cyprus.<br /> Theo<br>

    P.S Hope you still have my email</p>

  3. <p>Hello Robb,<br>

    Check this :<br>

    <a href="http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/classics/eos/Shared/Macrolites/index.htm">http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/classics/eos/Shared/Macrolites/index.htm</a><br>

    I believe you should try and locate an ML-3 or ML-2 which you can use with your T90 and maintain full TTL.<br>

    Best regards,<br>

    Theo :)<br>

    P.S Long time to talk, hope you are fine.</p>

  4. <p>Hello,<br>

    I would appreciate any info/help finding a replacement eyecup for my C330 CDS finder.<br>

    Mine went bye bye .... LOL, and is a bit hard to look through without any eyecup because of the light that comes from the sides.<br>

    Currently I am using one "borrowed" from my F1 with a diy round adaptor around the eyepiece.<br>

    Thanks for your help.<br>

    Theo</p>

  5. <p>Hi Jim,<br>

    If you remove the round leatherrete cover on the film advance/cocking knob, it will reveal a screw that might be loose that causes the winder to slip. I would start from there.<br>

    Otherwise it seems that something is loose from the gears causing the whole mechanism to slip.<br>

    Hope this helps.<br>

    Theo</p>

  6. <p>Hi John,<br>

    Go for it my friend !!! The camera is built like a TANK, I own this one for 4 years and I have ABSOLUTELY no problems. The screen was an easy fix to correctly focus to infinity, as I had to change a couple of foam strips only. Lenses are a charm to use and VERY affordable. ALL you need is a good tripod and a cable release, and YES it SLAPS loudly but I like it :o) Overall I think you will smile more often when you use it than crying or swearing.<br>

    My 1 cent ....</p><div>00aXs0-477153584.jpg.ed0a09865afea26dec6dd1cdf345a9f8.jpg</div>

  7. <p>Thank you all for your responses.<br>

    I haven't paid a cent for it ... I just found it in a basement when I was helping a friend clearing out the place of his passed away Grandfather.<br>

    Actually I have run a film through it and the results are VERY GOOD. I will keep it and I really don't care if it's a fake. It's a FILM CAMERA after all :o)<br>

    Theo</p>

  8. <p>Hello,<br />As I live in a small island (Cyprus), there are NO qualified techs to service any old lens.<br />I've used Eddie aka "Lens Doctor" with EXCELLENT results. Although his last repair was unsuccessful and I was quite unhappy about the results, even though he refunded me the paid amount upon complaining. I am referring to a Canon FD 28-85mm f/4 that came back serviced and was still "wobbly" and not focusing correctly. Anyway no hard feelings and I will use him AGAIN if I need to.<br />Referring to your question, my experience (as I've learned to service them myself), is that if a careless tech serviced the lens before, HOPEFULLY the focusing ring ONLY can be a little mm's OFF.<br />My last experience was with an FD 50mm SSC f/1.4 Breechlock, as it was not focusing to infinity AT ALL. All I did was to carefully reposition the focusing ring to the correct markings (without touching the optics and with LOT'S of measuring and tests) and PRESTO ... the lens was back in order focusing correctly throughout the scale, probably the focusing ring was not secured down correctly as the screws came right off without any resistance.<br />This very lens sold to a guy from the States and because he was very careful with his purchases, had the lens checked from Camera Repair U.S and they told him that the lens was SPOT ON :)<br />Hope this helps.</p>
  9. <p>Thank you JDM for your speedy response.<br /> I've already Google it and it seems that there are not so many discussions over it. I was hoping that a fellow Photonet member has or had this lens and his opinion.<br /> I have to wait until it arrives and I will tested myself :) after all is a Carl Zeiss Lens and it MUST be good.<br /> Thanks again<br /> Theo</p>
  10. <p>Hello,<br /> I just bought this and I wondered if the lens lived up to the Zeiss name and delivered enough extra image quality over the Nikkor 75mm f/2.8 ? Is it the same lens formula as the Biometar 80/2.8 for Pentacon Six/Praktisix/Kiev 60/Exakta 66?<br /> I really like the standard Nikkor-P 75/2.8 but is the Zenzanon MC 80/2.8 "by CZJ" really better?<br /> Sharper, better resolution, better bokeh? I've heard that open to f/4, it has a "swirling" bokeh as seen on the Biometar. At f/5.6 and after, is it equal or better than the Planar 80/2.8 on the Rolleiflex TLR? And can it focus down closer than the Planar 80/2.8 on the Hasselblad 500?<br /> Thank you in advance for your replies.<br /> Theo</p>
  11. <p>Patrick, I don't know if this works on EOS-3 but if it is it will tell you where the problem is.<br>

    "bc" is a general malfunction code.<br>

    I've send you an email with the page of my EOS-1 Factory Service manual that explains how to find the problem.<br>

    If you need more help let me know.<br>

    Theo</p>

  12. <p>I agree with Don. Digital is something but film is something else, but both take pictures !<br>

    So the best thing to do, is go out there do what you love to do (take pictures:) and stop urguing which system is best. BOTH !! Each at it's own field and use.<br>

    Now back to the OP question.<br>

    Dear Coles, my suggestion is to start with 6X4.5 format by spending less than half of your bugdet in a hamble Bronica ETRSi with the standard 75mm lens. You will learn, as we all did. Easy and affordable system without spending a fortune. If you like it then you can go on, if you don't you can sell it and get your money back as interest for MF Cameras is fairly high these days. </p>

  13. <p>Recently I bought an F1n to use it as spares.<br>

    It had attached a FD 50mm f/1.8 Breech lock that had oily apperture blades and when I opened it to clean the blades I found out that instead of 5 blades this one had 6 Blades?<br>

    Lens # 1066400 Prod. Code P1211.<br>

    Is that possible? Also it has the lock button on the back of the lens.<br>

    Thank you.</p>

  14. <p>Hello KC,<br>

    First of all remove the Hand grip from the camera and test your SB22 with the syncro cord again with the body, flash settings must be to full manual. If it works, then just try the trick I've told you before with the contacts on the bottom of the body and then the contacts on the grip. Flash circuit cannot be fried so easily, unless you did something :) Contact me if you have any troubles.<br>

    Thank you.<br>

    Theo</p>

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