mac_hordam

<p><em>"Please remember I want exhibition quality results printing up to A3+"</em><br /> <br /> Does this mean you will be exhibiting or selling the prints or is it a target for your own satisfaction? I ask because you may just find with careful technique and persistence and a growing familiarity with the scanner and software that a flatbed might just tip you over the line if it's for your own eyes. i.e you might tolerate a slightly lower quality result than a dedicated film scanner would produce as the trade off for a lower cost outlay and easier availability, even maybe a new one.<br /> You could give the V700 a try, if it's 2nd hand you might get your money back on reselling it if you're not happy. I've used an Epson 4870 flatbed and a Nikon 8000 and the 8000 was certainly the better of the two but I wasn't that enamoured of the Nikon despite that. I have the Minolta Multi Pro now which I find a little more user friendly than the 8000 and quality wise the two are close. But they're getting old now and they're also not cheap (compared with flatbeds)<br /> <br /> If you've never done any scanning before I'd suggest dipping your toe in to the flatbed end, you might find it too cold and want to remove your toe quickly.</p> <p>Look up one message there are new flatbeds. That could mean cheaper old ones or better new ones.</p>

<p>It's often easier/cheaper to get an old, dedicated to scanning, computer for these "legacy" scanners.</p> <p>Otherwise your options are pretty much Nikon 8000/9000, Minolta Multi Pro, other Flextight/Imacon/Hasselblad or drum scannners. Budget and availability will determine which is best.</p>

<p>If I were you I'd be looking to add Lightroom to my arsenal. I work on my images with LR4 and CS1 and see little need to bother about upgrades of either unless I get an unsupported new camera in the future and then I'd just go to LR5. You would need LR3.3 or above though for the D7000. Much better to get LR4 or LR5.</p> <p>One thing to remember if you do use LR4/5 with an old CS version is to Export to CS not Edit in CS when you transfer the file in order to retain the latest LR4/5 version adjustments (An Andrew, above, tip from some time back).</p>

<p><em>"Ouch! I'd think that one through a bit more (too). I suppose it's possible, if you get it flat.</em></p> <p>It's certainly possible, I do it. But that's because I got an exceedingly good deal on some boxes of roll paper that made it well worth my while to go to the time and trouble of cutting and flattening it.<br> Would I recommend it?. No.<br> Would I do it again? Doubtful even at the price I paid. But I got the printer first and the roll paper second so it seemed like a good idea at the time.</p> <p>And back to the OP's topic.<br> The extensive user evaluation and non-recommendation of roll paper with the 38XX series above, begs the question why would you even be considering the 3880 if you <em>"...only use roll paper"</em>? (not to mention why would you go against the perceived wisdom of using a printer with its makers inks, a combination that gets so many thumbs up for a clog free life) And before that gets translated as preachy, it's not saying that third party inks are all bad, just that you're turning your back on a tried and tested clog free result for a degree of uncertainty. (Preachy/Helpful - Helpful/Preachy again it's your decision)</p> <p>And as for cutting and flattening roll paper, have you heard of head strikes with the 38XX series (no vacuum). You will if you venture there. Clogs and strikes, the joys of printing. Just another helpful/preachy little tip from a user.<br> Am I out of here now? <br> Yes, there's no helping some people. But I tried, maybe others will benefit.</p>

<p>Before this thread disappears into the mists of time I thought I'd just add that having now used wetransfer it does everything I want it to and with that simplicity I mentioned above.</p> <p>Nice result.</p>

<p>2nd Edit<br> Sometimes on these forums people ask questions and to a bystander watching from the wings it's obvious that the person is chasing trouble. All it needs is for someone to nip it in the bud by simply saying DON'T BE SILLY.<br> If only someone would from time to time :-)</p>

<p><em>"You couldn't help yourself could you?"</em></p> <p>I wasn't trying to help myself I was trying to help you. You are asking for opinions, you've had trouble for 7 years (or part thereof) with clogs, you don't want clog troubles with your new printer, you've come to the conclusion that maybe the 3880 is for you. Now you want to use third party inks in it.<br /> Weeell ....</p> <p>What you needed was someone to tell you to buy the 3880 and stick with Epson inks and reap the benefit of the path that is least likely to give trouble. Someone (I) told you that, maybe in a roundabout way but if you don't want to hear it - so be it. <br /> There can only be so many clogged printers in the world, if you want to flirt with the risk of you having one of them it's less to go round for the rest of us so good luck to you and your third party ink comrades should you find any.</p> <p>Edit<br> I said I was trying to help you. I'll try again. Let's suppose you buy the 3880 and run it with the Epson inks in it, chances are (based on user feedback) you will have a clog free or significantly clog free life. Now let's suppose you buy the 3880 and put third party inks in it. Okay you may save a bit of money, you may have a clog free existence but what if you do get clogs? Do you persist with third party inks or return to Epson inks? What about all that third party ink in the feed lines and heads. Why did it clog? Was it Epson's poor printer or the poor inks? If it's the inks how do you purge the very last drop from the printer to start with a pristine printer once more? Your choice you now know my advice but you must and will do as you choose. 7 years of clogs with the 4800 should make you wary. Best bet is to use the Epson inks and maybe break a mirror if you still want to have 7 more years of bad luck.</p>

<p><em>"Please only respond if you have extensive practical experience with 3rd party inks."</em><br> <em> </em><br> You're, presumably, looking at the 3880 after recommendations on your earlier thread. These would largely be from people who have that printer and quite likely who use the Epson ink in it. Now you're saying you don't want to hear from them which negates the recommendation in the first place as you're now in effect asking for the "best pro 17" + printer that people have used third party inks in and not had clogs". A completely different proposition.</p> <p>Why would you, after a self proclaimed period of 7 years fighting clogs with your current printer, want to take the risk of putting non Epson inks into the printer you're hoping to buy in order to cure your clog problems? You've been told the 3880 has few to no problems with clogging isn't that worth the cost of the Epson ink?</p> <p>You also need to ask those third party ink users not to reply too, unless they also meet the <em>"I don't print every day and some times I go several weeks without printing" </em>parameter. The more variables you introduce the harder it is to get a straight answer.<br> <br> But wait you've got a straight answer - the Epson 3880 printer with its K3 Ultrachrome inks is a splendid printer, not prone to clogs even after extended downtime and very good value for money.</p>

<p><em>"It's not just the clogs with the Epsons, it's the flimsy plastic, the excrutiating slow software and the quirky maneuvers the printers make when warming up."</em></p> <p>I have both 3800 and 3880 printers, the 3800 I've owned and used a lot for some 6 to 7 years, none of its "<em>flimsy plastic</em>" has broken or cracked, I'm not sure what you mean by the "<em>excruciating</em>(ly) <em>slow software"</em> and why you should trouble yourself with the <em>"quirky maneuvers" </em>that are something Epson have built in to ready the printer for use is puzzling.</p> <p>Have you owned printers from the Epson Pro Stylus range? What are you recommending as an alternative and why?</p>

<p>Many thanks for all the replies. I have to say I like the simplicity and straightforwardness of wetransfer and no account needed to use the basic service.</p> <p>I'm also going to look into Dropbox and Google Drive as they seem to get plenty of votes.</p> <p>Thanks again for all your answers.</p>

<p>I have a need to have family members/friends send me Raw files so that I can process them for them ready for printing. (The curse of being the one "good with photoshop")</p> <p>What would be the best way for these files to be transferred to me remotely. If sent as email attachments they may well be too large, are there any other ways that would be secure for me to receive and can cope with sizeable files</p> <p>Oh and I have to be able to send them back to them when done. And I don't want it to have to cost me, or not much anyway, as they won't be wanting to pay me. (Aren't I the lucky one :-))</p> <p>I'm thinking mailing them an SD card for them to use and mail back is as safe as anything but obviously not an easy "just click" solution.</p> <p>Any ideas. TIA</p>

<p>Once again I would point you to the site I recommended. In particular the following page might help</p> <p>http://people.csail.mit.edu/ericchan/dp/Epson3880/abwprofiles.html</p> <p>This gives you a guide to printing Advanced Black and White with the 3880 and some profiles to instal plus the settings to use. Note the recommended tone settings are all either Dark or Darker not Normal as you say you have set, this might be one of the reasons for your faded greys. It's important to set everything else just as listed by Eric Chan on that page don't decide to wing it on a setting or two (he knows what he's talking about).</p> <p>Another question, is your lustre paper Epson Premium Lustre (PLPP as shown in the table on that page) or is it another brand of Lustre? That will also make a (big?) difference.</p> <p>No disrespect meant to anyone answering on this forum but you are more likely to encounter sage advice on Eric's site re the 3800 and 3880 printers than just about anywhere else. Well intentioned advice isn't necessarily the same as correct advice. Eric's is correct.</p>

<p>Without knowing the settings you were using we'll be guessing in the dark. Your best course of action is to look at this site that is probably the best resource of info for the 3800 & 3880 printers<br> http://people.csail.mit.edu/ericchan/dp/Epson3800/faq.html<br> If you can show a screenshot of your settings that would help too.</p>