kip_peterson

Thanks!! Here is a copy. https://steveruddyphotography.com/images/Forum_mages/Rollei-P66s_Rep.book.PDF

 

Here is the web page were I found the service manual. Anleitungen | Rollei Diaprojektor Rolleivision

Does anyone have the USER manual for the P66? i want to figure out how to stop the lamp from fading in and out between advances. Thank you!

I've posted a link that might interest anyone reading this thread. I think we've all been

where the original poster is--wondering how to get the best quality scans from our film.

The Nikon 9000ED and others often get mentioned, but I feel they are all

compromises. Here is a <a href="http://web.mac.com/kip/scans" >link</a> to what I

ended up with, and I think it will be quite enlightening. Enjoy!

Here's a site with two links on it that show some personal tests of scanning MF film.

The first link just compares a small section of film scanned on a Scitex EverSmart

Pro II to a Nikon 9000ED (which is why I bought a Scitex!). The second link on the

page shows even more improvement (as mentioned by others) achievable by fluid

mounting. Here's the link with the list of the two URLs:

http://web.mac.com/kip/iWeb/scans

Enjoy!

Kip Peterson

Les Sarile--I look forward to your e-mail. The thread continues to focus on consumer-

grade scanners which, as I've posted in my example link above, are remarkably inferior

to professional-level scanners. Once you've seen this difference, the debate seems to

fade away--at least for me!

Take care--

Kip

This thread has really gotten some attention! I've enjoyed reading it.

I am an unabashed analog photography fan, even though I own a digital SLR, among

many cameras. I prefer shooting film for its look, and so I went on a scanner hunt to

try to get the best of both worlds. In my journey I learned consumer film scanners

just don't cut it for image quality. I've shared the following example with many

friends and photographers, and I think it is quite revealing. Just <a

href="http://web.mac.com/kip/iWeb/scans">click here</a>.

There is another link on this page that shows the advantages of not only the Scitex

EverSmart Pro II scanner I chose over consumer level scanners, but also the

advantages of fluid mounting which I now do routinely.

Hello, everyone. I was wondering if anyone could clarify which accessory shutter release buttons

actually work on the old Nikon MD-2 motor drive (in the auxiliary power port). The classic resources

on the Internet are not clear--some say just the MR-1 is compatible while others say the MR-2 and

even the MR-3 might work. Any real users out there that can clear up this question? I'd hate to buy

the wrong item if I ever found one!

I fully realize I am opening myself up for ridicule with this question, but here goes... ;-)

I have been building a Nikon F2 system over the past several months, and have been lucky enough to get

some of it in very good condition. It looks so nice now that even though I am using it a lot, I would like to

keep it in good condition esthetically. Currently I have it configured with an MD-2/MB-1, and the bottom

of the MB-1 has already lost some paint from the bottom edges through my use. It occurred to me that

my Leica M6 had a plastic bottom plate protector (which I learned from threads in the Leica forum you are

supposed to remove!), and I wondered if this might be an unobtrusive way to help preserve the black

paint from rubbing off the bottom of the MB-1. If so, does anyone know where to get material like this? It

seems it would be easy to cut a custom shape from some stock if it's available.

OK, I'm ready for some suggestions--or the assault!

Neil Parker wrote:

"I viewed through my pair of F2's and although I never noticed it before, there is a very

faint out-of-focus something barely visible at the center of the bottom edge of the

screen."

Sorry I got you to notice something you had not in the past! ;-) Noticing little details like

this is a curse I suffer...

Kip

I recently acquired my dream Nikon SLR--a 1976 F2S. It took me 32 years after first seeing one to get it,

but it was worth the wait! I was very lucky to find one in pristine, fully operational condition.

I do have a couple of questions, though. The first is whether seeing the upper mirror clasp as a small and

out-of-focus dark patch at the very bottom edge of the viewfinder is normal. I know this camera was renowned for displaying 100% of the view and I guess it makes sense, then, that one could see a little of

this clasp edge, but it is a little disconcerting to me as I have never seen such a thing on any other camera. For you experienced F2 owners, is this normal?

The second question is about the split image halves blacking out. I know this happens to varying degrees

with different focal lengths, but what does this mean: I have two copies of the Nikkor 200mm f/4 lens,

and one blacks out the lower half of the split image circle (Screen type A) more than the other! This only

seems to happen in dimly lit situations and both are fine outdoors in sunlight, but this seems very strange

to me. I have two because the first one I bought wasn't in the best esthetic condition and I thought I

would try another one. It looks better, but it does this blacking out thing!

Thanks in advance for any insights--

Thank you all for your contributions--I'm amazed how much activity the question posed!

This is a great group.

Here are two questions that will instantly reveal my ultra picky psychosis... :-) The first question is:

What's the best way to remove the "Passed" or "Inspected" label sticker from the barrels of Nikkor lenses,

so that the enamel finish is not damaged? The second question is: Should one even try? Perhaps like a

car's, the finish would look different under an old sticker anyway, or the future value of the lens would be

compromised...

Thanks for any thoughts--

Hi--

I'm in a Catch-22 with Microtek support and hope someone here can help me out. I own a Polaroid

SprintScan 120 and recently purchased the Microtek glass film holder for it since they are compatible and

the Microtek was availabe. It turns out the anti-Newton glass cover is defective on it and they will replace

it for me, but they want the 120tf serial number before they will ship it to me! This makes no sense to

me--I faxed them the invoice for the film holder, but they insist they need the scanner serial number. I

doubt I can tell them I have a Polaroid scanner and have them comply...

So, would any owners of the 120tf be willing to share their serial number with me so I can get this part

from Microtek? Please feel free to write me private if you prefer.

Thank you!

Kip Peterson

kip@mac.com

San Diego

Ted--

Yes, the price seems right and the owner was very helpful on the phone. I will definitely post

results and impressions after I try it out.

Ted--

I have the the Microtek glass holder and in a month of use have determined it is pretty

awful. It holds the film flat, of course, but really degrades the image in my opinion. I

would go for this fluid mounting kit made for your scanner--I ordered one today:

www.scanscience.com

I am crossing my fingers for great things!

Kip

Stefan--

This is fabulous! Thank you so much--it's a better response that I could have hoped. It

will take me some time to evaluate these images, but I think we all are extremely grateful

for your efforts!

Initial gut feeling--the Contax seems cooler, but not less sharp.

Thanks again--

I had the Super-Angulon 40mm and the 80mm Planar as you have for my Rollei 6008i

system. I invested in the Lee system so I could use their incredible 105mm circular polarizer

and ND gradient filters (even at the same time if needed!) on both lenses. It was a joy to use

and the performance was outstanding. I think Lee is the way to go when faced with different

sized objective lenses.

Thank you all for the responses so far! Very good info. The Superachromats are so much

more expensive than the Contax that i don't think I will pursue that path for the limited use I

think this focal length will see with my use. However, I am very interested in hearing what

folks say about the CF and CFi lenses stack up as Evan asked.

Thanks again--

OK--looks like I'm on a roll with the most posts in one week! Trying to get this quiet corner of photo.net

a little noisier... ;-)

I'm thinking of investing in a mid telephoto lens for my Contax 645. There seems to be some controversy

about variation in sharpness in the Contax Sonnar 210mm. Since this is a focal length I would use less

frequently than others, I'm reaching out to you experienced users to tell me that if one doesn't mind the

totally manual nature of using the MAM-1 adapter with a Hasselblad lens, would this be a more reliable

way to get a sharp telephoto for the Contax system, say, a Sonnar 180mm or 250mm for Hassy, instead of

the f/4 210mm Contax?

Any insights would be greatly appreciated!

I guess I'm posting a lot lately as a newbie to the Contax 645 system..sorry!

I just received a used 35mm f/3.5 Distagon lens. It is a work of art, but the focus ring does not feel nearly

as buttery smooth as the 80mm Planar standard lens. It seems to perform as expected in autofocus mode

with a quick, accurate response, but when I manually focus, it just seems a little "crunchy" feeling when

turning the focus ring compared to the 80mm.

Is this a common experience with other owners or should I suspect something is wrong?

Thanks--

Michael--

Thank you for the answer! Your technique works flawlessly and I greatly appreciate the

help. The only hitch compared to my previous MF camera, the Rollei 6008i, is that you

have to remember to move the dial back from "2" to "S" to return to normal shooting! The

Rollei had a separate MLU button on the remote. Oh, well--a small price to pay, and your

tip works wonderfully.

Thanks again--

Kip

I just received a Contax LA type cable release for my Contax 645 camera. It has a slide and release button,

and I think I've figured out how the two operate, but is there a way to use this release to perform a mirror

lock up before opening the shutter? Or, is pressing the button on the side of the body the only way to

activate the MLU operation?

Thanks!

Lawrence-- I'm not sure if this will be helpful, but I view the Epson pigmented inks quite

differently that the posts above. I'm a glossy curmudgeon, I guess, and feel the gloss

differential with the K3 (or any other) pigment inks is too objectionable, including the

R1800 which I had for a while and especially with the 3800, 7800, 9800 printers. So what

do I do to get acceptable results for me? I use dye inks, and bought an older Epson 7600

just for this reason. Of course, to overcome the dreaded longevity problem with dye inks

you MUST mat and frame under glass the prints you want to preserve, but once done, they

will be stable.

For accurate B&W tonality, the best results I have achieved come with using a RIP. I use

ImagePrint and it produces absolutely stunning B&W with no color casts whatever.

Just my two cents' worth. Enjoy the journey!

Hey everyone--

Good news. ToCAD had BOTH of the little covers I was looking for--the synchro port cover

and the tiny shutter release port cover for the MP-1 Grip. Amazing.