rick_strome

I just got my Alpha 700 and have 3 Minolta lenses with front focus on one:

28 mm F2.8 seems to focus ok

50 mm F1.7 Seems to focus ok

70 - 200 F4 has front focus as follows.

At 70 mm and infinity focus, I need to turn the focus ring about 3/32" before infinity

to get proper focus. Thus I have to focus slightly before infinity. At this slight

change in focus, the image in the viewfinder looks in focus, but on the LCD it is

not in focus.

At 140 mm and infinity focus, I need to turn the focus ring about 2/32" before

infinity to get proper focus. Thus I have to focus slightly before infinity. At this

slight change in focus, the image in the viewfinder looks in focus, but on the LCD it

is not in focus.

At 210 mm and infinity focus, then image is in proper focus at infinity.

Thus as I zoom out, the focus error is reduced to zero at maximum zoom.

It appears that this is a lens problem.

Is there a simple fix to this?

Is this a common problem that any lens repair shop can fix?

I have read other threads about this topic and they seem to indicate that the

camera is the problem and should be sent in for calibration.

How can I test to see if it is a camera problem or a lens problem other than what I

have done?

I saw a lens repair discussion on Pbase, but did not notice if this topic was

discussed.

Does any one know of a good repair shop in the USA (I live in Ca) where I do not

have to send in the camera.

Thanks for any advice on this, Rick

Paul:

I called Bower (the mfg of the unit sold at B and H) and they said I probably have an older unit that may not work properly in all cases. My unit has a green and red dot with 7000/9000 on the side. The newer unit has only a red dot with open/close on the side with no 7000/9000. Do you know what your adapter had written on it?

Thanks, Rick

Stephen:

Thanks for the answer. I did as much research as possible, but have not been able determine what lenses work and won't work. Is there a link that shows that. I could not find that information even on the M42 site. I called B and H and they gave me the name of the distributor and I will call them tomorrow to see if they have an answer. Thanks, Rick

I just bought a Sony Alph 100 dslr camera that takes Minolta lenses. I also

have several Canon FD lenses that I found will work on the Sony with the use

of a M42 adapter. I got the adapter from B and H and it does not work very

well. It is made by Bower. It has a glass element that allows infinity focus

and allows me to take pictures with some restrictions. Can anyone tell me if

they have ever used these adapters on the Minolta/Sony or other cameras. The

problems are:

1. The adapter will not go on some lenses. The 50mm f 1.8 and 28 mm f2.8 will

go on but the 70 - 210 f4 will not.

2. The adapter is very poorly made in that it is difficult to get on the lens,

it will not lock and the only way to get it off is to pry it off - not rotate

it off.

3. None of the lenses will open up to more than F 5.6. I went to a M42 site

and found nothing. Thanks for any advice on the above, Rick

I just bought a Sony Alph 100 dslr camera that takes Minolta lenses. I also

have several Canon FD lenses that I found will work on the Sony with the use

of a M42 adapter. I got the adapter from B and H and it does not work very

well. It is made by Bower. It has a glass element that allows infinity focus

and allows me to take pictures with some restrictions. Can anyone tell me if

they have ever used these adapters on the Minolta/Sony or other cameras. The

problems are:

1. The adapter will not go on some lenses. The 50mm f 1.8 and 28 mm f2.8 will

go on but the 70 - 210 f4 will not.

2. The adapter is very poorly made in that it is difficult to get on the lens,

it will not lock and the only way to get it off is to pry it off - not rotate

it off.

3. None of the lenses will open up to more than F 5.6. I went to a M42 site

and found nothing. Thanks for any advice on the above, Rick

I lost my dark slide to my Hasselblad 500C. I got a free used one from a

friend. It is not exactly flat like a new one. It is just slightly bent. It

slides in and out OK but there is some added friction taking it in and out.

Will it function properly and not cause the foam to eventually wear out?

Will there be any light leaks with this. I have not used it yet.

Thanks, for any advice on this, Rick

I have a Hasselblad 500C with a 80 mm lens. I also have a Vivitar

285 flash. Recently I have been experiencing random flash failure

(fails to flash about 10% of the time). Does anyone know if it can be

determined what component is causing the problem?

Is it a bad cord pc connector to the flash.

Is it a bad cord pc cord connector to the lens.

Is the lens pc cord connector bad.

Is the flash pc cord connector bad.

Can you do a simple continunity check to determine what item is bad?

I do not want to buy a new flash if the cord is bad and vice versa.

Thanks for any advice on the above, Rick

I shoot about 2000 - 3000 frames a year and would be interested in

knowing what Hasselblad camera component has the highest reliability.

My 500C is about 35 years old. I have had my one lens(80 mm)

overhauled twice, my two backs once and the body once. I have a spare

back so I can take pictures without reloading as much. Should I also

get a spare body, or is the body reliable enough to forgo that?

How often should I get the above components overhauled to increase

the probability that I will not have a breakdown?

Everyone knows you need to do scheduled maintenance on your car at

certain intervals. Are there recommneded intervals for the above?

Thanks for advice on the above, Rick

I have been trying to have Costco with their high quality Noritsu

3101 digital printer make a series of four 12 x 18 prints (from

negatives) that are to be made into a panorama by pasting them

together.

All I ask them to do is make sure the 4 prints have the same color

balance and density so when they are put together they will match.

The negatives were taken with a 35 mm SLR and are all the same

exposure.

The problem is that the manager does not know how to make the unit

print out the 2nd - 4th print the exact same as the 1st print (which

is correctly balanced).

Is there anyone who is familiar with the operation of this or other

minilabs that can tell me if this is difficult to do. I cannot get

in touch with Noritsu to get an answer.

The manager who makes the print says it is the best he can do. The

numbers on the back of the print (indicating color balance and

density) are mostly similar but some are different indicating that

something is different.

When put together, the prints are close but not exact.

How can this be so hard to do?

I would appreciate any advice on the above?

Is there another forum that might address his also?

Thanks, Rick

Thanks for all the above answers.

Comments:

I only get 2 - 3 leaks every 5 rolls of film. Thus if I did a test I might not get any leaks.

The leak is a slight fog where there is an image visable where the

light leak fog is.

I had the backs serviced by Hasselblad and the light trap foams replaced. It is not a light leak through the area where the dark slide goes. That type of light leak would be sharp streaks of light instead of a slight fog.

When finished, I wind the film as tight as I can on the takeup spool to help insure it is tight, but still get a few leaks now and then.

I am asking if it is possible for the back to wind the film loosly so light can leak through the loose areas or could the film be wound such that the light could leak through.

Thanks, Rick

I have had my Hasselblad 500C and two 12 backs for over 30 years and

all of a sudden in the last 6 months I have been getting a random

light leak fog on about 5% of the shots I take. I mostly shoot Kodak

400 NC.

The leak fog is a very slight haze that runs horizontally across the

film. It ranges from 1/16" to 1/8" wide and covers from 1/2 to 3/4 of

the width. The fog leak also covers the film border. The density

varies from very slight to noticeable. In all cases the leak is not

a series of streaks that might be caused by a light leak through the

light trap. Also, there is always an image visable where the fog is.

When I first noticed this I had my back serviced and reserviced

finally by Hasselblad to corect a film overlap problem. Hasselblad

thinks the problem is caused by the film not being tightly wound on

the takeup spool. Kodak thinks the same so I am sending some of the

exposed film with the leaks to Kodak.

I know it is not a camera light leak because when I take the dark

slide out, I put a large piece of duct tape over the slot where the

dark slide would go. Still a light fog doing this.

Has anyone experienced this and if yes how do you solve the problem?

Is the problem with the film or the back?

I try to wind the film as tight as possible on the takeup spool to

try to avoid this problem but it still happens about 2 - 3 frames

every 60 shots.

Thanks for any advice on the above situation.

Rick

All a panaramic mask is a cover over the top and bottom portions of the frame to make it say 40 x 60 mm or 30 x 60 mm or 20 x 60 mm or whatever you want. I do not know if they sell it, thus I made my own mask out of thin stiff plastic.

It was rather simple - I had to tape it to the back. I took the plastic and cut it out to fit the back without any interference from interlocks, etc. I then cut out a 24 x 60 mm rectangle in the center.

I then taped it to the back.

To get more frames, I ran a test roll of film through the camera and noted the number of degrees the crank turned for each movement of a frame of the panarama slot. For example the crank rotated -say 300 degrees for a full frame and only 120 degrees for the 24 x 60 mm panaramic slot. The amount of degrees of rotation changes for each frame because of the thickness of the film on the takup spool.

Thus, if you note the degrees for each frame, you could get say 30 panaramic frames from one roll of 120 film. You must take into account proper frame spacing.

I hope this makes sense, Rick

I recently saw an exhibit of high quality landscape photos.

I asked the photogrqapher about his technique.

He said he shot slide film on medium format and then made an

internegative, then a print. I asked him why and he said the

internegative made better prints than direct prints from negative

film - it gives better shawdow detail and better color saturation. If

thats so, why don't they make internegative film so you can shoot

directly to it.

It would seem that you would be one generation closer to the final

print.

Does anyone know the answer to the above or is he mistaken?

Thanks, Rick

I recently shot 7 rolls of film (Kodak 400 NC) on my older Hasselblad

500C with a 12 back. I recently had the body overhauled by Hasselblad

because the interlock between the body/back would sometimes jam.

2 different times 2 frames were overlapped by 1/8". I searched the

archives and found a similar topic for a Rollei 6008 (is the problem

similar)?

Why would the frames overlap randomly? I thought the system was

mechanical with meshing gears causing the film to advance.

Could there be slippage?

Is this a problem with the body or the back or both.

Also this back allows me to get 13 frames out of a normal roll of 120

film (without any overlap) - The frames are just closer together.

HAS ANYONE EXPERIENCED THIS AND IS THE REPAIR SIMPLE.

THANKS,

RICK

I would like to thank everyone for responses to my question on films

for Alaska mountains and glacier photography.

I have determined that for 120 film, either of the 2 above might be

the best choice for higher contrast scenery photography.

Is Kodak 160 VC really a higher contrast film than 160 NC?

The Kodak rep said it is. I am not sure.

I have also heard that Reala is also lower contrast since it is also

used in portraiture.

Has anyone had any experience with these two films in outdoor

photography?

I generally have my film processed at a pro photo lab that uses low

contrast paper for weddings. I wonder if the above films printed on

low contrast paper would be too low a contrast?

IS THERE another film I have not considered?

Thanks again for advice on this subject,

RICK

I need to use some refrigerated (not frozen) film (Kodak Ektar 25)

that is 2-1/2 years past its expiration date. Has anyone used film

this old and come out with good results?

This film is no longer produced.

Thanks, Rick

I will be going to Alaska and wish to take good slides and prints of

the beautiful mountain

scenery. This scenery is mostly snow white (Mountains with a lot of

snow and glaciers).

I am an experienced photographer (weddings) and thus am familiar with

low contrast film

used in weddings (Kofdak 160, 400 nc,vc). I will be shooting both

medium format and 35mm.

QUESTIONS:

1. Is this low contrast film suitable for these high contrast scenics

or shold I try

a higher contrast film (Velvia or others)?

2. Would normal amature film (Kadak Gold 100, Fuji etc.)processed good

be adequate?

3. Is there a low contrast slide film for these types of pictures?

4. What film have others used for this or similar types of scenics.

Thanks for any advice on this topic,

Rick

Your lab is lousy if they won't make a print lighter. A print from a

slide is made the same way as a print from a negative except

backwards. A print can be made as light or dark as you wish. I have

made prints from slides in the past. The main differences are that

the prints from slides are much more contrasty and the colors more

vivid. The shawdows are almost black. Thus a good print from a slide

is best obtained from low contrast subjects.

THe best pictures of scenery are taken 2-3 hrs before and after

sunrise and sunset to eliminate shawdows. Prints like this done on

Cibachrome or the high end glossy Fuji paper are spectacular

especially if you use medium format to its advantage and make large

enlargements (16 x 20 or larger)

Good luck, Rick

I had a very unusual light leak on 3 of 12 pictures taken recently.

I have showed several other photographers the leaks and they are

baffled. The following description will describe the leak as seen on a

5 x 5 print. I realize it will be difficult for you to visualize the

leak, but I will do my best. I wish I could draw this out or scan the

picture in - one picture is worth a thousand words.

CAMERA Hasselblad 500C with an 12 magazine. I have taken thousands of

pictures with this back - this is the first problem I have had.

Pictures were taken outside in the shade. Film Kodak 160 NC. All

prints were properly exposed.

The light leak or flare consists of a bright flash (color white) about

1/2" dia (located at the far left of the print about 1" from the

bottom). There are about 4 or 5 streaks of light (combined height -

1/2") (each about the thickness of a dull pencil line) running 2/3 of

the way across the print. These leaks look similar on all three

prints. These lines run radially about 10 degrees from the right to

the left (like the minute hand of a clock running from 9 - 10

o'clock) and end up at the bright flash. The odd thing is that the

lines look like they start at the right side of the print and end at

the bright flash.

The light leak or flare is not a reflection off a bright object.

The sun did not shine directly on the camera or lens.

9 pictures did not show any sign of light leak.

No light leak is on the edge of the frame.

I have seen other light leaks - this is not like them.

I intend to send these prints to Hasselblad to see what they think.

It might be internal reflections or a film flaw or x-ray contmination.

I would appreciate any advice you can give. This is very perplexing.

Thank You,

Rick

I have been to Abq numerous times. There are 2 good camera stores that

have a good selection of film.

1. Kurts camera corral

2. A large camera store (I can't remember the name). It is located on

Monte Vista near Central Ave.

Look them up in the yellow pages when you get there or use the yahoo

yellow pages.

Have a good trip,

Rick

Has anyone ever tried using 220 film in a 12/A12 Hassey back? I hear that since the 220 film has no paper backing, you have to do a test to guess where the first frame is (you would ruin the first frame). You would count the number of revolutions that the film winder did to get you to the first frame and do that for all future rolls. If you have a 12 back, you could look through the window and see when film shows up - then close the window and shoot 12 pics amd then turn the counter back to 1 and shoot another 11 (first frame is ruined).

Has anyone tried this and been succeccful.

I do not wish to buy another back at $500 - $600, when I already have 2 good 12 backs.

Thanks for any advice you all can give in this area.

Rick

I have heard of horror stories about a jam where everything locks up.

I do not know exactly what this is (I heard that when you change lenses the leaf shutter might pop open and you cannot shoot or change lenses - IS THIS WHAT IT IS?).

Does anyone know what causes this and how to perform an unjam?

I heard you can buy an unjam tool - what does it do? Can you make a tool yourself?

Thanks for your response - I want to be prepared when it happens.

Rick

Does anyone know if there is any difference in quality of the old chrome 80 mm lenses vs the newer 80 mm Black T type lenses. Could you tell the difference in a 16 x 20 print. I hear the only difference is better coating on the newer lenses - everything else is the same.

Thanks, Rick

I have the Rodenstock Rodagon and it is better that the base lens that can with the Omega Enlarger (Vivitar). The APO is a better lens, but you probably can't see the difference except at 16 x 20s or larger.

If you look at 35 mm camera lenses, the best ones are of the APO type design. Same with enlarging lenses. I do not know of any enlarging lens tests except in a old darkroon magazine (Camera Darkroom).

All the lenses above would do a good job on 8 x 10s or smaller.

Rick