x_wang

<p>Thanks Andrew. <br> I had done that and changed brush sizes several times.<br> I had a look of driver updates, but I don't know one is which one I need to update, second is if it is a problem caused by the driver, the third is if it has been updated by Microsoft normal updating. </p>

<p>This is Healing tool's message.<br> BTW, I use PC(HPEliteDesk800) and Windows 10.</p><div></div>

<p> I'll see if I can upload the screen shots..</p><div></div>

<p>Hello,<br /> I found that my clone tool doesn't work on CS6 in the past few days. I had a look of healing tool, it doesn't work either, but Pattern stamp works.<br /> When I clicked "Alt" key these message come up...see the attachments.</p> <p>It is has nothing to do with layers, they are single layers.<br /> It has nothing to do with selection, nothing is selected. <br /> It is not keyboard, I just bought a new one this afternoon. <br /> I have reset all tools several times. <br /> I have restored computer to the point when the clone stamp tool worked, but it still doesn't work after restoration.<br /> I did downloaded VLC Media player in the past couple of weeks, but I had it before on another compute, it had no problem as I recall, also it has been taken out after I restored the computer.<br /> Is there anything else I can try? Please help.<br /> Many thanks.<br /> Jasmine.</p>

<p>Thank you very much for your reply Matthew.<br /> Very good test, you give me some vague ideas about the diffraction that I didn't know anything about before. Your tests prove your point "It seems to depend a lot on what you're doing and what you're doing it with" that I began to grasp. On digital term, perhaps the lens, ISO,sensor, light and the subjects are all the elements to determine the diffraction. Do I understand it clearly? But in reality, those elements can never been the same, so it's hard to say when the loss occurs. For instance, with the same equipment, setting, subject and "a perfect light" condition, the aperture could be smaller, but in other none-ideal time it could be larger. <br /> Your film test is very interesting, I always like film's colour that people scanned, it looks richer than digital on the screen, people always say that it has more information on film than digital, I think that you film test(The diffraction loss at F32) proves the point, very impressive. <br /> Thank you very much again.<br /> And thank you all. <br /> Jasmine</p>

<p>Thanks Kim,<br> You must be more careful than I am...:-).I have already got a dirt sensor that I haven't dealt with for years..not sure what to do with it, some people say it can be clean by myself, some people insist to leave it to the professionals, so I haven't done anything...<br> No, this is only with one UV filter, I haven't bought PL filter for this lens, it's mainly for indoors when I visit museums or houses where flash and tripod are not allowed. The photo was taken when I got on the tower of <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Coughton_Court">Coughton Court</a>, you may see the tower from the link. No problem with hand held because the light was very strong and shutter speed was high.. I rarely have this kind of light condition, mostly it was dim...<br> Thanks again, and thank you all.<br> Jasmine</p>

<p>Thank you Kim for your different view. <br> UV filter,... yes, I've heard your saying from another photographer before, I guess that he doesn't use it and manages to keep the lens clean. I use it for protecting the lens considering the way I take photos..every single lens has one since film camera time. This one is Hoya 82mm pro1 digital. I remembered that it was the best one I could find at that time. The only issue is clarity,... take a look of this one at F10, is it acceptable at your standard? </p><div></div>

<blockquote> <p>Thank you Stephen for your answer. I'm interested in learning more about For most consumer lenses, stopping down the aperture 1-2.5 stops usually gives one a sweet spot.</p> </blockquote> <p>From which aperture to stop down? Can I know any lens' sweet point by read the lens' range without physically trying the lens? For instance, this lens is EF16-35mm f/2.8L II USM, I use it for indoor low light when I visit places, I never bother to think about sweet point, because when it's too dark, I have no option apart from cracking up ISO and use f2.8. But I'm still interested in knowing how exactly to find it. <br> Thank you Bela. Yes, UV filter is fitted, and the lens hood is Canon EW-88 specially for this lens, obviously it doesn't do its job well. Longer hood would give me dark corners, I presume.<br> Thank you James. It is flare, if I show you the coloured original version you would see it clearly. This is the underexposed photos, one of the three+/- bracketing, originally taken as in camera HDR, but I decided to use this single photo only. <br> Thank you Dave. </p> <blockquote> <p>When the dust clears, it's easy to just bracket your apertures down from f/4 to f/22 and see what works.<br> </p> </blockquote> <p>I'm not good at testing work, I leave it to the blokes..:-D, but I would like to know what is like.. could you tell me what would be like, in general rule please? Thank you for your compliment, Dave.<br> Thank you David.<br> I agree with you about aperture. I thought that most of the castle will be on the photo, with correcting the distortion afterwards, I wanted the castle sharp all the way through..so f18 came into my mind as Wouter mentioned there was a kind of saying.. "it requires small aperture because you want everything sharp"and "it's done with wide angle lenses". <br> You mentioned shutter speed and ISO, as I said above, this is originally taken as in camera HDR, this is the underexposed one. I put ISO up when I was on the other side of the road, the castle was under the shadow, it was pretty dark, darker than I thought, and the sun was quite bright at the middle day. I don't use tripod,so I thought I should get the possible high speed and clearer picture as much as possible.<br> Thank you Wouter for your further explanation. Glad to learn that the diffraction issue when the image is printed. I understand from the discussion that my limit should be f16, but it makes me think<strong><em> when one can(will) use the f stops from f16-f22</em></strong>.<em> </em>So far, it seems that nobody wants to use it, because it causes problem,... what are they there for? <br /><br> Thank you all very much again for the information.<br> Jasmine</p><div></div>

<p>Thanks Stephen. Yes, it was Canon 5D mark III.</p> <blockquote> <p>I'm not very technical, I heard people talking about "Sweet point", it seems that f8 is preferred a lot. Does aperture has anything to do with the physical length of the lens? Is f8-16 the "sweet points" on different length lenses? I was told: "..the actual size of the aperture at that focal length will be around 1 mm. " How do I understand this please? </p> </blockquote>

<p>I don't take landscape much, I would say at least f13 plus(full frame), so that to get the larger part of the picture sharp until I got an alternative advice is f11 for Canon 16-35mm f2.8 lens, because of the small aperture's lower performance due to diffraction. Can any one give me an explanation please? <br /> <br> BTW, there is some flare on the right bottom part between the road and castle, I turned the photo into B&W to reduce its distraction, but you can still see it is a bit 'foggy' in that area. Does the flare show more obviously taken with small aperture than larger aperture?</p><div></div>

<p>Thank you Steven.</p>

<p>Interesting to know.. Thank you both. :-)</p>

<p>Thank you Richard.<br> Thank you Eric.</p>

<p>Thanks again, Eric. As I said that I don't know much about computer. I wonder how I specify CPU and GPU When you said:"a fast cpu..", did you mean the processor speed? I haven't noticed the GPU number on the Features list. I actually learnt a lot about computer, I have never heard GPU before... but I would still like to understand more about dedicated cards that I mentioned above. <br> Thanks Lex. I don't use onOne and Perfect Effect 8. Do you know that Perfect Effect 9 is free now? I used to use PSP, changed to PS a few years ago... I don't know how my computer works, only know that the "Fill" doesn't work properly on large file, when the brush tool didn't work due to lack of memory, I thought that I should search for a new one...</p>

<p>Thank you Richard. I had a quick look in the morning. HP NVIDIA GeForce graphic cards only listed to 600. AMD Radeon is fine up to 7000 series...I'll have another look later.</p>