kinesisphotogear
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Posts posted by kinesisphotogear
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Don't get the 60 Macro if you have a 5D as mentioned above. It is designed to only fit on smaller sensor bodies. It is an excellent combo with a 1.6x body though. The distortion you are getting is probably from NOT using a tele lens. See this link on my site for more info on copywork. http://www.kgear.com/copywork/
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One important thing I didn't see above is the recommendation to use a telephoto lens -- tele/macro if possible. It helps reduce distortion.
Also visit this page on my site: http://www.kgear.com/copywork/
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I'm not sure what the prior comment "exposure guide" means. I have two of these holders and the focal plane matches that of the a 4x5 cut film holder. There are problems with film flatness with these holders. Read my page on this matter > http://www.kgear.com/blogg/
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Does the 20D have a vertical grip or not?
Mount the Kinesis C380 holster case in front on your chest with the H717 X-
Harness. Mount the P069 hyrdration bladder pocket to the back of the H717.
Add a waist belt, like the B108 or B109 and your good to go. VERY stable
and comfortable.
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I use a Sinar p (similar in weight to the X mentioned above) and I use heavy
Slik "Professional" model. I call it my Japanese Gitzo because it is similar in
quality to the larger non-carbon fiber Gitzo models but half the price. For more
info read my blog page with mention of this tripod.
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Check out our C580 holster case.
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I have tryed using inverters for such an application, but the intially spike or
power draw is just too much for any car battery inverter which I have found. A
generator seems to be the only way for AC units.
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I had a L328 and found it underexposed. See my review of Sekonic meters at
http://www.KinesisGear.com/opinion.html
I doubt the factory will help you out as their "standard" underexposes. I finally
glued some neutral density mylar over the sensor of my L328 to fake the
meter into correct exposures.
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The Pocket Wizard can be triggered with certain Sekonic meters w/o the need for
an assistant to punch the button on your power pack. By the way, I have a 2nd
hand Quantum Radio Slave 4i for sale. Works perfectly. Contact me directly if
interested.
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Does your D20 have the optional battery grip on the bottom? If so, then most
short holster cases will NOT fit this body. Most holster cases sized for a full-
sized body are made to fit a longer lens like the 70-200/2.8 (except our C500
model).
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Robert, are you purchasing a 300/2.8 or 300/4?
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For everything but landscapes, use the meter in incident mode. This meter tends
to underexpose by about 1/2 stop. See my review and tips at: http://
www.KinesisGear.com/opinion.html
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When my 328 died I sent it to Sekonic for repair. It was past praying for (not
repairable), so they gave my 1/2 off on a new meter (L508).
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When using a gray card you balance to the highlights. With a gray card you
balance to a middle value, which can give you a more neutral overall balance
(highlight to shadow balance). I have found that most white cards yield a 6-8
point (Photoshop points) yellow bias, compared to using a grey card.
See this page on my site for more info: http://www.KinesisGear.com/opinion.html
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I just posted the Canon PDF file on my site:
http://www.KinesisGear.com/opinion.html#canon. It is entitled
Getting The Most From Your EOS-1 Class Digital SLR Tips and Techniques:
Camera Handling & Maximum Image Quality.
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You will find a larger selection of Canon "quick focus" USM lenses available
compared to Nikon.
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I recently downloaded an official PDF document from Chuck Westfall (head US
tech) at Canon. It basically said what previous people mentioned?point-n-
shoot digitals have built-in"in-camera" unsharp masking, whereas the D60,
20D etc. have some unsharp masking and the 1D series have little. They suggest
for 1D cameras to unsharp mask at 300% / .3 / 0 as a starting point (in
Photoshop > Filter > Sharpen > Unsharp Masking). I have found with my D60
with the camera prefs set at "Sharpen" that 200-250% for most subjects works
good. I could post the link or put this doc on my site if people are interested.
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I use the Xenophon 3 inch Gel Holder with Spring available from Calumet.
gelatin filters are rear mounted (less flare) instead in the front. It works with all
my glass from 90mm to 300mm except my 47mm. The short focal distance from
this lens tends to pick up or "see" the slightest amount of dirt or dust on the
filter. For the front (grads or polarizers) I use the Lee/Calumet 4x5" slide in filter
system.
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I have the D60 and this lens. I have had repeated back focus problems. I sent
both into Canon (along with a CD containing files illustrating my point) to
recalibrate -- NO change. My 70-200/2.8 works fine on this body. I have read
in other forums about this same problem with the Mark II and the 24-70.
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I have had the same problem with my D60 and this lens. Sent both into Canon
yet the problem persists. Problem does not occur with 70-200. My next
solutions is to change the Custom Function 2 (Shutter button/AE lock) so it is
set to AE lock/AF.
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I buy the equivalent of an 85B filter in large sheets (Rosco #3401) and cut it
down to fit over my flash. Using adhesive Velcro, I adhere it to othe front of my
flash. (This request comes up so often I'm ready to start selling in on my site!)
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I replaced (with my own sewing machine) two Chimera box scrims. They were
VERY yellow from age. Of course, if you are shooting with all soft boxes and with
digital, you can just do a custom white balance and it won't matter!
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The C2 had constant problems with spacing. The newer C2N was better (beefier
gears I believe). For more info on Calumet roll film backs visit this link on my
site: http://www.KinesisGear.com/opinion.html#calumet
I have one of each and have sent them in for repair for this same problem.
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Shoot at F8 or smaller for best results. This lens is "only fair" wide open. I use
mine on a D60.
sinar p fresnel
in Large Format
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