jason_fung

<p>Premise: I'm based in Asia, and I'm spoilt for choice for a number of unknown brands of lights. I am little torn wheter I should venture into the Chinese brands or the ones with more comprehensive reviews.<br>

My purposes: On location lighting. Portraits. Interiors. Large Modifiers<br>

My understanding, in my use of speedlights. The only thing that really matters is the ability to adjust power. All these strobes have that ability and function. What else makes a light good?<br>

I've looked intensively at the elinchrom ranger and Alien Bee 800 with the vegabond battery pack. I'm personally leaning torwards the Alien Bee's but the Chinese branded ones are so much more accessible. And I wanted your thoughts, opinions and help.<br>

From the Chinese brands, there is the CononMark LCT600, or photoflex?</p>

<p>your thoughts are greatly appreciated.</p>

<p>I'm using a Metz 58-AF, but I subsequently sold all the compatible Canon gear that it was made for. Now I use it on a variety of manual film cameras from every format and size. I thought the principals would be similar across brands; regardless of Metz 58-AF, Canon 580EX or Nikon SB900. Is this not the case? </p>

<p>I.E. Is the automatic function different between the 430EX and 580EX? </p>

How to use the "A" mode on a speedlight? (Not TTL)

Note: this is not a discussion of TTL metering because the cameras that I am using are not compatible with TTL. But they do have an

automatic mode that I would like to try and utilize.

Set aperture and ISO to the speed desired.

The speedlight will tell you the effective range that the speedlight will be usable at full power.

How does the speedlight meter?

(1) meter the whole scene, like with a centre weighted metering.

(2) use some kind of special matrix metering that can disregard backgrounds?

(3) use the IR to measure the distance and after some computer calculations, give an output for that distance. (Similar to using guide

number calculations)

Practical scenario:

Speedlight on a manual camera. Speedlight settings are dialed in to mimic those on the camera.

Situation A: speedlight is pointed directly at the subject. the neutral background is close to the subject.

Situation B: speedlight is pointed directly at the subject against a dark night sky. IE. the background is infinitely distant from the subject

Analysis of situation "A" and "B":

In situation A, metering systems (1), (2) and (3) will function equally well. However in situation B, the environment will trick the meter in

metering (1); and a successful meter in metering systems (2) and (3)

Situation C: the subject is next to a white wall. The background is irrelevant. The speedlight sensor is directed at the subject. The light

is pointed towards the wall. The intention is to use the wall as a bounce flash. If the metering system is based on (3), this situation will

not work. (2) will be fine. (1) might be tricky depending on the neutrality of the surrounding environment.

EXTRA: Situation D: (unlikely to occur because manual control and a light meter would be more appropriate in my opinion) light on a light

stand off camera to provide a highlight on the side. The meter is pointing at the subject. Can the automatic function provide sufficient

light (provided it is positioned correctly)? I realize this will be impossible with a shoot through umbrella or soft box. But possibly

conceivable with a reflective umbrella.

I thank you for taking the time to read this and indulge in my geekier question. Your contribution is greatly appreciated.

<p>I was hoping to revive this topic to help me with a small chrome / paint dilemma. I have recently purchased a M4-P; I was also still considering the MP. I want to know if it is a black paint or black chrome. I choose it because I liked the finish; but knowing which one I prefer would be a nice fact to know.<br>

The M4-P is a early number, 1544xxx, and the rangefinder focusing window is receded into the top plate; these suggest to me that this M4-P is made of brass.<br>

The finish on the M4-P looks like a flat matte finish. Not glossy and shiny. Especially compared to the Leica MP that I was shown. Am I right in assuming that the shiny is a black chrome. And black paint looks flat in comparison?<br>

Thank you.</p>

I've been looking to arrange a guide but I am having a little problem convincing my better half.

I also want to take a moment right now to thank everyone for their contribution to this thread. However, I wish to seek

everyone's help once again - this time I need to get slightly off topic. I'll be traveling 5 days across Cambodi; entering and

leaving from Phnom Penh, staying one night and will travel by day bus to Siem Reap (3 days)

Am I bringing too much equipment? I hope to rent a tuk tuk for the day and hopefully get a local guide.

Hasselblad 501cm + 50mm f/4 + 80mm f/2.8

(The 50mm will stay in the hotel unless it is for sunrise and sunset temple shots. (We will still visit Angkor during the day,

but the sunrise shots might be better reserved for some of these other wats.)

I'll be brining three backs and one Polaroid back. And enough film to go around. (About 30-40 rolls)

Fuji x100 + flash. Partially for redundancy, partially for small fuji flash I'm brining. I'm also bringing a LED light for

lighting for the Hasselblad. And a small tripod. (Gitzo gt2542T).

My concerns are,

Is this too much equipment? Will I need to lug it everywhere or can I safely use the hotel safe for extra equipment and

bring only the hasselblad and backs.

Will I expect to do a lot of hiking (ie. 2hrs or more)

Will I need to maximize my maneuverability when exploring Angkor?

And my largest concern is...

Will there be enough space in the canon to store my equipment securely? Or forget all that and shoot with a leica M3

with a 50 and 21 next to my fuji backup?

<p>Thank you everyone for sharing. I'm actually planning trip there in the coming weeks and I'm hoping for an opportunity to get some response from the community.<br>

I'm planing to bring my Hassie with a 50 and 80mm and a Fuji X100 as a backup. I'll primarily be shooting with the 80 day to day; but plan to use the 50 for sunrises. If I run out of film, or need to use a flash, I plan to use the Fuji x100.<br>

I am a little put off the idea of the tarp (although that might be hidden by a silhouette shot.) But I might still do it. I might try a more street photographer mode, and try to use the flood of photographers as a composition element; or stick to the postcard and pray for great light, or utilize the entrance... I do have a few other ideas floating around in my head; but at this point I'm just thinking out loud. <br>

I've read some people run into problems with authorities, and being accused of being professional photographers, requiring permits. Others claimed that using 120 or larger film means that they are a professional photographer, and again require a permit. (1) Has anyone here run into these type of problems? (2) How does one establish that they are not a professional photographer without any commercial intentions? (3) if needed, how does one go about informing the APSARA about photopermits? I've tried asking them, but none of their emails work. <br>

Thanks<br>

<br />Jason<br />dikaiosune01.wordpress.com</p>

<p>Thank you Dave for writing this. This has been very helpful in preparing for a trip I've been planning to take to Burma. I was hoping you could PM me some of those contacts too, I would like to know how to find good local guides.<br>

<br />Thank you.</p>

it is a bit more complex than the question states. I've done quite a bit of research however my local dealers don't carry every single tripod

i wanted to try.

I already use a full sized carbon fiber tripod from benro for my large format needs. Which is quite servicable; but i'm looking for something

that will travel much better when I leave that beast at home. I won't be supplying links, because that often leads to my questions being

blocked by yahoo answers.

The biggest camera I'll be putting on this would be a polariod 110B. More commonly, it will be a Mamiya C330 TLR which weights

approxmately 2kg. Features in order of priority.

- rigidity

- collapsable length and portablility

- weight (i'm already carrying a massive TLR kit)

- maximum height (it's a TLR no matter what i'll be looking down anyways)

I first looked at the Gitzo 531. Which had a closed length of 33cm. However i found the legs really thin and the result was not a stable

platform for long exposures.

Other considerationsi nclude the

gitzo systematic series 4 carbon fibre super compact tripod (GT4552TS)

(question: does the series indicate the general rigidity and diameter of the legs?)

Series 2 6X Basalt 4 section (GT2840C)

Series 3 6X Basalt 4 section (GT3840C)

(more questions:

- is there a question of reliablity or rigidity with the basalt series. I've been reading inconsistent reviews

- again I repeat my series question in a slightly different way. Series 2 or series 3?)

Thank you for reading

<p>Which office in China will you be going to?<br />Most Shen Haos are built in the main office in Shanghai.<br>

I suggest calling ahead. The normal frontdesk lady doesn't speak much English. She gave me the number of her associate, who I communicated with through email. I got my package will no problems on their end. Call and Email ahead, and I think they will be happy to accomdate you.<br>

Note: apparently, buying from their american supplier, BadgerGraphic, it is actually cheaper than buying directly from China. The invoice I got from the Shanghai office, the camera was about 150 USD more if I bought it in Shanghai. (however, I don't live in the US; so I wasn't able to take advantage of that situation.) </p>

<p>I have a roddenstock 180mm f/5.6 on a Copal 1 shutter.<br>

When I adjust the aperture, the aperture lever gets very very stiff around f/22. When ever I need a smaller aperture, i'm quite hestitant to push it any further. However it can be forced into position. It loosens up again once it passes f/22. I want to elaborate that, the aperture stiffens, it doesn't get stuck. It feels like a bottle cap that has been twisted tightly, then loosens below f/22 and beyond f/22.</p>

<p>I'm looking for a film lab that I can use to process 4x5 film. I'm looking for a good processor.<br>

I am aware of colorsix (<a href="http://www.colorsix.com">www.colorsix.com</a>). I know they come highly recommended, but their location and my tight working hours make it very difficult to reach them during their working hours. If you must know I'm situated in Sheung Shui.<br>

I know Skyphoto does process 4x5 film, but the staff there has no idea what to do with it. Have you ever been satisfied with the quality of SKYphoto? MY 35mm slides came out quite medicore. <br>

Do you know any other photo labs in The New Terrorities area that I can try? I'm looking to spefically process 4x5 film (B/W + E6)</p>

<p>Thank you</p>

<p>A lot of people have highly recommended ColorSix. It is located in Central. Stanley Street.<br>

<a href="http://www.colorsix.com">www.colorsix.com</a><br>

I know sky photo also does 4x5 processing. Does anyone know if they are any good? Does anyone what to try sharing their experiences using Skyphoto? I live quite far north and Central is quite a fair ways for me; especially considering colorsix's early closing hours (4pm on saturday)<br>

<a href="http://www.skyphoto.com.hk/en_index.htm">http://www.skyphoto.com.hk/en_index.htm</a></p>

<p>I've been using a rangefinder for quite some time now; and i've been wanted to get into medium format. I think I may have stumbled onto a deal. However, i've never bought a used camera before; and I wanted some direction from others who are willing to help me. After some research, I've decided on the Mamiya c330. for the following reasons <br /> - i like looking down<br /> - i want an interchangable lens set, wide angle for landscape; plus a 50mm equivalent that I use for still life and candid portraits. (that's usually what i use)<br>

LUckily I came across the deal below...<br>

400 dollars (USD)<br /> note: due to personal circumstance, I am unable to inspect the items in person.<br /> <br /> http://www.flickr.com/photos/dikaiosune01/sets/72157625154589847/<br /> <br /> I've asked the following:<br /> "When were they all last used? Are there any light leaks? What condition are the lenses in? Is there any haze, fungus or scratches? Has the camera been cleaned, lubricated, and adjusted? Do you have any sample pictures taken with this camera?<br /> <br /> I've got the following response:<br /> The camera & lenses are not mine but belong to my brother-in-law. The equipment is all in great condition and hardly used. He bought it all brand new when he wanted to get into photography in a big way and then quickly lost interest. It has been sitting in a closet for a number of years. I'm not into photography myself, so I'm not exactly sure what you mean with all your specific questions. I would be happy to take some close-up photos of the equipment and send them to you if you like, if you tell me exactly what you would like to see. I do not have any sample photos that were taken by the camera itself. I'm just doing him a favour by selling it for him as he is an older gentleman not familiar with selling items on Kijiji and the like.<br /> <br /> additional questions:<br /> - i'm very tempted to risk it. However it it becomes a dud, I don't know where or how much it will be to get it fixed. (While I can get the items through contacts back home. I live in a non-English speaking country)<br /> - after the camera sits in a closet for many years. how about the shutter springs? will things have worn out due to age?</p>