goldberg1138

<p>I'll look into those options, thanks! I just wish there was an easier way using the web gallery. It's so convenient.</p>

<p>I'm working on programming a website for myself. I love the polished look of Adobe Bridge web galleries. In the programming, I've been using a DIV with an iframe inside it, then using navigation bar links to load the web galleries into the iframe. My problem is that I want to have the web gallery begin playing automatically once it is loaded, instead of forcing the viewer to press the play button. Does anyone know about html programming enough to help me? Is there a way to do this, or do I have to look into something like java in order to have a photo gallery that plays automatically?</p>

<p>I have an old Lipca Flexora camera from the '40s I got second-hand. I have a roll of 120 size film loaded in the camera, but I'm not sure what the marker for the first frame looks like. How do I know when I've advanced the film enough to begin shooting? What symbol should be showing through the little round red window? I'd like to use the whole roll and not skip any frames. I'm using Ilford XP2 400 120 size film. Hope this question makes sense.</p>

<p>I think I can only get around 3 fps in RAW with the xti. I've been to some shows where the venue or the bands had invested in light setups, and I've been to others that looked like middle school gymnasiums. I've never been to this particular bar before so I don't really know what it's like. I like the idea of leaving the camera in manual, or I could leave it in aperture priority mode, but set it to under-expose by a stop, then lighten up the pictures however I want in post processing - that's if the place is too dark to keep from holding it steady. I guess I should bring the flash, but something about using special lights outside of a studio seems wrong to me - maybe it's just something to get used to. At any rate, thanks for the encouragement!</p>

<p>Maybe I wrote it in a strange way - the f/1.8 lens is nice and fast. I can take pictures in very low light with no flash. The f/3.5-5.6 of the kit lens is really what I meant to say was the slow one. I guess what I meant to say is that the only one who ever really judged any of my results was myself. If I go out one day and every picture I take looks crappy, no one else has to see it. I enjoy antics at live shows, so that's not the part I'm worried about. There's another pub where I see live music pretty often. I just show up with a camera and shoot. I never use a flash because the shows are mostly in the afternoon, and personally think it's a little rude to just zap people with a bright light. This time they asked me, so they'll want to see something at the end of it all.</p>

<p>Maybe I wrote it in a strange way - the f/1.8 lens is nice and fast. I can take pictures in very low light with no flash. The f/3.5-5.6 of the kit lens is really what I meant to say was the slow one. I guess what I meant to say is that the only one who ever really judged any of my results was myself. If I go out one day and every picture I take looks crappy, no one else has to see it. I enjoy antics at live shows, so that's not the part I'm worried about. There's another pub where I see live music pretty often. I just show up with a camera and shoot. I never use a flash because the shows are mostly in the afternoon, and personally think it's a little rude to just zap people with a bright light. This time they asked me, so they'll want to see something at the end of it all.</p>

<p>I was out today doing some street photography and working on my 100 Strangers Project. (I've had a great time with these, btw.) I met this guy in a punk band who was trying to get me to come take pictures of their show, which is tomorrow. He says that the band doesn't have any god pictures, which they obviously need. Musicians and photo images have always gone hand-in-hand. The problem is I feel a little overwhelmed with such a project and don't feel totally confident with the equipment I own. I have a Canon Rebel Xti, Canon 50mm f/1.8, the kit lens that came with the camera, and a Minolta Auto 360px flash. I can't use the flash on TTL mode, because it is rather old and isn't compatible with the camera. The 50mm lens has been great for portraits, but it really isn't wide enough to take pictures of groups of people indoors. The kit lens takes pictures that are not as sharp as I would like, which is why I got the 50mm, but it gets nice and wide. However, it is a very slow lens. <br>

The show will be indoors, so there won't be much light. I can use the flash with a diffuser, bounce it off the ceiling, or whatever I need to do - take a couple test shots then adjust as needed.<br>

I'm a beginner, as you can probably tell. I love live music and punk shows are wicked fun! What do you think? I've never photographed professionally, and never had anyone ask me to photograph an event for them. Would you try out the new experience? Wait until you could afford better gear then hope opportunities come then? Anyone have any input, stories about their first nerve-racking photo experience?</p>

<p>Thank you for the article, by the way. Everything else I've read about has made perfect sense. I guess this is the next step for me in furthering my photography skills. </p>

<p>The manual for the flash is possibly the least comprehensive owner's manual I've ever seen. It doesn't really explain how to use the flash, other than in TTL mode. So basically - I make sure the camera's metering says that the photo will be properly exposed at the given settings - whatever those happen to be. Obviously, I make sure the shutter speed isn't over the maximum sync speed. The guide number is about 118 feet for this flash. So, at 20 feet from the subject, with a guide number of 118, I would need the aperture to be set at roughly 6 (assuming the flash is on full power and I'm using ISO 100). However, if I'm using the flash for fill, I set the power at 1/2, which is one stop lower than the full exposure. The dial on the flash only goes up to ISO 400. If I want to use ISO 800, for example, I would set the flash to whatever power I need for 400, then stop down one stop on the camera or choose a lower power setting on the flash. Correct?</p>

<p>The ASA range on the dial on the flash only goes up to 400. If I'm using ISO 800, I would set the aperture one stop lower and then do everything else the same, right? I just figured I would adjust the f-stop accordingly. I went ahead and got a Wein Safe Sync. I didn't want to take any chances with the camera. I'll look up the auto thyrstor setting to figure out how to use it.</p>

<p>For some reason, this topic seems to confuse me to no end. Thanks for the input.</p>

<p>Here's the back of the flash:</p><div></div>

<p>The manual says that it has a guide number of 36. It doesn't say if it's feet or meters. How do I tell? It's a Minolta Auto 360PX. It's rather old, but it works fine with a Safe Sync.</p>

<p>Okay, I might have picked a bad example. I just pulled out the camera settings to use for the example. The fastest the shutter can sync with a flash is 1/250th of a second. I can use a larger aperture to accommodate. I didn't think of this limitation when I posted. The question was more about metering, calculating f-stop, and deciding on flash power setting. Thanks for the suggestions, though.</p>

<p>I got a second-hand external flash for my camera. The flash has a guide number of 36. It's a rather old flash unit, so I can't use ETTL mode with it. I have read numerous articles trying to figure out how to calculate what power setting to use, and also what aperture to set my camera at. I usually leave the camera on aperture priority mode, as this seems easiest for me. The flash has full, 1/2, 1/4, 1/8, and 1/16 power settings. If, for example, I have the camera set at 1/500th of a second shutter speed, f/5.6, and 100 ISO, and I'm standing 10 feet away from my subject, and I want to use the flash for fill light outdoors, what power setting would I need on the flash. I haven't been able to find a succinct answer to this. So far, I've found explanations on how to calculate power settings for taking photos nearly in the dark, and explanations on reasons why I should be using fill flash, but I'm having trouble understanding how to calculate the settings to mix the right amounts of ambient light and light from the flash. Is the dial on the back of the flash there to aid in calculating fill light, or for using the flash as the primary light source? Can someone help me to understand this?</p>

<p>I am new to photography. I will be taking classes on photography soon (starting January) and I have the choice of focusing on digital or film photography. The photographers whose work I very much admire (Michael Kenna, Alexey Titarenko - look them up if you aren't familiar with them) worked in b&w film. I own a digital slr. Do you feel that it's necessary, or more true to the medium as a fine art, to learn to work with, develop, etc. film? I'm not proposing a digital vs. film type of thread - I'm more interested in getting opinions on whether some techniques are only possible with one or the other. Input would be greatly appreciated.</p>