mark_fukui

<p>Zelph: i appreciate the suggestion. I don't think i'm musclely enough to hike with that though! haha. Actually those cameras sound really awesome. Hopefully one day I can use one. <br /><br />Tim: You're blog is great! I read those links and it was helpful. :D<br /><br />Edward: Thanks for the detailed response. After sitting and contemplating for a while, i've decided I don't need a big bulky multi row panorama set up. I want it to be as simple, compact, easy to use, and light as possible. I'm currently using a ball head for my panoramas, which is so silly I don't know how I overlooked it! I took your advice and ordered a hot shoe bubble level. I'm about 95% certain that I will get the 1. manfrotto 056 (3 way pan tilt head) + neewer universal arca swiss clamp (so I can use my nodal slide) and 2. sunwayfoto leveling base (just to make set up quicker and easier). <br /><br />Thanks again for the responses!</p>

<p>Wow! Thanks so much. You did a great job of explaining what I was trying to convey. Weight is a big issue with the full panoramic head set up. I'll need to review that. </p>

<p>I've been doing some reading in old photo.net forums and I think i may have solved my issue in number one. In order to take a technically correct panorama while tilted up or down, one must level the base of the ball head. That way, the panning will be done on a level plane. This would be facilitated by using a leveling base, not a panning clamp. When rotating about the panning clamp, tilting the camera up would make the photo arc down. Tilting the camera down, would make the photo arc up. Can anyone confirm this?</p>

<p>Hi all. I really enjoy doing panoramic photography, so I am considering upgrading my panoramic equipment. Currently I have a benro b-1 ball head, 140mm nodal slide, and an L plate for my D7000. I usually shoot with the sigma 10-20 f3.5. After reading a lot on various websites, I have become quite confused and would love to get some questions answered!</p> <ol> <li>I am considering getting a panning clamp for my ball head. On really right stuffs website they state that the bubble level on the panning clamp should be leveled before taking a panorama. Here’s my problem; when I go hiking in order to get the edges of the trail and landscape into the photo, I have to tilt my camera and nodal slide combo slightly. This means that the bubble level will not be level. Would this defeat the purpose of getting a panning clamp? Would tilting my rig downwards compromise the technical quality, ex. Stitching, when taking a single row panorama? My initial thoughts are that having a panning clamp would make the photo taking process easier because I wouldn’t have to level the tripod since my rig is rotating about my panning clamp.</li> <li>I am also considering getting a multiple row panoramic rig. This is considerably more expensive, bulky, and time consuming to set up. If anyone has experience with this type of set up suggestions would be appreciated. Should I just grab the panning clamp or go for the full multiple row set up? I know a lot of this answer relies on my willingness to invest the money and my desire to shoot multiple row panos, but I am more concerned about the weight, set up, and ease of use. Thanks a lot guys!</li> </ol>

<p>Hey all. I've been having a focusing problem with my D7000. I've looked up similar posts and it looks like I have a back focusing problem, but i'll tell you why I'm confused. <br> 1. Using my Nikon 80-200 f2.8D I notice that it back focuses when taking a picture through the view finder. (AF fine tune cannot correct it.) When I take a picture using live view the focus is dead on.<br> 2. I told this to nikon and went through the whole deal. I sent in my camera to Nikon. They sent it back saying everything was "within factory standards." <br> 3. I just tested my camera again with the 80-200 f2.8D and the same thing is happening. <br> 4. I tested this with other lenses (tamron 28-75, rokinon 85 1.4, tamron 180mm f3.5) and my camera is able to correct any back focusing with the af fine tune. I did this before and after I sent my camera in. <br> Now I'm wondering if it's my nikon 80-200 f2.8 D thats the problem. I'm stuck in this weird situation because I don't know if I should send my camera in again (which is a huge pain) with the lens or just ditch the lens? Thanks for your help</p> <p>Mark</p>