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richard_bach1

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Everything posted by richard_bach1

  1. <p >Also, like Sarah said, stitching and multiple frames would be highly advised here. At that aspect ratio you are only using about 12% of your vertical resolution here, and you really need all you can get!</p>
  2. <p >Former large format prepress artist here:</p> <p > </p> <p >You’d be hard pressed to find a 300 DPI image of that size anywhere. That would be a 10+ GB file! The truth is it that even the top imaging technology made today is still not suited for perfectly sharp billboard prints you can stick your nose in. Viewing distance is a huge factor. Have you ever seen a billboard up close? Its not pretty, but no one looks at it up close, so it doesn’t bother anyone.</p> <p > </p> <p >How would we handle this at the print shop? Usually we would interpolate up to the highest size Ps would reasonably allow (remember that Ps has maximum pixel limits unless dealing with the not so friendly .psb file format) by using whichever algorithm suited the image best (bicubuc, bilinear, etc. make a HUGE difference at this size) Sharpen once before resizing, once after with the appropriate settings, and then add something like 2% noise to synthesize some missing detail at the pixel level. Then let the RIP handle the rest of the interpolation. Its probably best to let your printer handle this part.</p> <p > </p> <p >Its not a perfect art and depends greatly on the image and the preferences of the client. Honestly I find it is best to ask for a few 1’x1’ swatches at the final size with some different resizing treatments. It almost always comes down to choosing between a blurry but relatively artifact free image, or a sharp image with lots of stair stepping + aliasing artifacts. Its a choose your poison situation. Keep your expectations in line with reality…</p> <p > </p> <p >PS it also helps to have the best base image possible to start with: i.e. good detail, from RAW, sharpened properly etc.</p> <p > </p> <p >Good luck!</p>
  3. <p >Some background: Switching from a Nikon D700, I have been using a Sony A7. I love the size and handling when using some old manual FD glass. Files look great, manual focus is super easy, very light packing, lots to like here.</p> <p > </p> <p >And while there is so much to love, I miss my Nikons. I just know them well and they have always done exactly what I wanted them to do. I miss the glass too, I loved the look and consistency of the new G primes (though that supposed 24 1.8 needs to come out soon!). Theres just a long list of tiny flaws in the A7 that Sony doesn’t seem intent on fixing that impede my shooting more than I’d like (5-10 second to start up sometimes?). Plus the manual route I’ve taken has some obvious disadvantages.</p> <p > </p> <p >On the other hand, I really do love the size of my A7 (Though admittedly I grab my Coolpix A pretty often, and even my tiny A7 stays at home…) and fear that the extra size and weight will make me not want to bring that camera around as much. But again, I am so spoiled sometimes I don’t even feel like bring that out. I feel like I am shooting much less than with my big ol’ D700, even though theA7 is much more portable. Would a D600 + a few primes kill me? (Perhaps its the ergonomics of the Nikons that are drawing me back, they are perfect in my eyes. Nikon has had a long time to develop their craft and refine to over and over and over again, while the Sony feels like a good start. And those lovely full frame viewfinders too...)</p> <p > </p> <p >Has anyone had any experience switching back form mirrorless? If so how did it go? I’ve been running back and forth about this and I’m curious if anyone else has done the same.</p> <p > </p> <p >Thanks!</p>
  4. <p >Thanks for the response Gus.</p> <p > </p> <p >I tried the new adapter and the things look exactly the same. Next culprit is the lens I suppose. It feels very tight on the same way on the new adapter as well. Any thoughts on what this may be?</p> <p > </p> <p >Time to visit the Sony Store to try some lenses there and see if the problem is exclusive to the lens or the mount…</p>
  5. <p>Thanks for the response Dieter, thats pretty much what I was thinking all along.</p> <p>I’m gonna give my adapter a little tightening to see if that does the trick. The adapter/lens mating doesn’t feel loose at all, in fact if anything if feels TOO tight, the lens is very difficult to get on/off. I have another adapter on the way, at least then I can narrow it down a little bit. I’m also gonna give a visit to the Sony store to play with a few other variables.</p> <p>Fingers crossed its only an adapter issue…</p>
  6. <p >Hi everyone,</p> <p > </p> <p >I recently just purchased a Sony A7 and am using a Fotodiox adapter and a CV 28mm f2. I recently noticed in my images, as well in a few tests, that the left side of the image appears quite soft and blurry (looks like a tilt shift lens). The image below is on a flat wall shot head on. This only seems to be noticeable in the close focus range, and more noticeable at wider apertures. Sometimes in images where the left side is in the wide open background, it appears MORE in focus that in should. Sometimes, usually in infinity focuses shots, it is perfectly sharp out to the farthest corners (leading me to believe it is not the range finer lens “smearing” that happens on the Sonys)</p> <p > </p> <p >I’m wondering this an issue with my lens/adapter/or the mount? I have no other other body to test the lens or no other lens to try out on the camera at the moment. I would have thought that it was a case of the “smearing” some wide M lenses have on the A7, but it is much stronger on one side than the other, leading me to believe that is an adapter issue. I don’t know how to isolate the problem to see what link in then chain is causing it.</p> <p > </p> <p >Has anyone else had similar problem? I’m hoping its just a simple adapter problem… Any help would be be great here!</p> <p > </p> <p > </p> <p >PS:I noticed the adapter has 4 screws to screw the fave of the adapter to the rest of it, and one of them looks a little loose in comparison. Can these be used to adjust the adapterter if need be? Or should stay way from those screws?</p>
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