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andreas_thaler1

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Posts posted by andreas_thaler1

  1.  

    I suspect the 'fun' of feeding that machine with chemicals and performing the necessary cleaning and maintenance will soon get old. Whereas 2,500 Euros buys a lot of hassle-free commercial processing.

     

    Handling is easy - just dilute the chemicals for multi usage, fill in and start the (pre)programmed process. Cleaning is done automatically by the Filmomat it is just to fill in water into the storage tank and to press a button :)

  2. I recently bought a copy of the still rare Filmomat.

     

    "The fully automatic film processor for your living room. For 35mm, medium format (120/220) and large format (9x12, 4x5", 5x7") - from bw negatives to color slides."

    Automatic film processor | Deutschland | Filmomat

    This machine is manufactured and distributed by a young guy in Munich/Germany. Located in Vienna/Austria I have tested it developing my very first color film and I am very satisfied with handling and results.

     

    This is my review. I want to state explicitly that there is not any business relation between me and the vendor than being a customer :)

     

     

    Filmomat – it does not get better!

     

    I simply could not wait until the weekend to test the machine.

     

    So I grabbed my Olympus in my lunch break and went out into the neighbourhood to have the first candidate for the Filmomat.

     

    35 pictures were quickly taken and I started off in the late afternoon.

     

    18437134-orig.jpg

     

    In the changing bag, I cracked the Portra film cartridge with the cartridge opener. As always, the end of the film has be cut with a round edge, so the film is not caught in the reel. I managed to do that – surprisingly – well ;-) Before, I had to practice a little on the Jobo reel, as it has to be fed in a different way than the Paterson, which I have been used to for decades.

     

    18437135-orig.jpg

     

    Then I started the filling of the Filmomat. It takes quite a lot of water for the water jacket to temperate the film tank and the chemicals. Additionally it needs rinsing water, which goes into the rear part. Litres flowed. Then the film tank is attached and connected with the cable. This way, the tank is agitated and the reel bumped of the base of the film tank. Here, the developer and the bleach/fixing bath are already filled. The latter one a brown sauce. Better put on protective gloves and goggles. The Filmomat is now started, now it heats up the water jacket to reach the process temperature intended for C-41. Fever: 38 degrees. Wait, watch and be amazed. The machine hums, an active fan makes sure the power supply unit is cooled.

     

    18437141-orig.jpg

     

    Another perspective

     

    18437139-orig.jpg

     

    Filmomat in action. The Tetenal C-41 process has started. Now the film tank has to be pre-flooded. At the bottom the total remaining time.

     

    18437142-orig.jpg

     

    The set temperature has been reached. Above the present temperature of the water jacket, below the temperature of the chemicals. The Filmomat makes sure the temperature is kept and has a couple of tricks in its programming to make sure the cooling-off of the chemicals between the runs is compensated. Hats off!

     

    18437140-orig.jpg

     

    The Filmomat’s inner water world. In the front the heating element, behind the water filter. The water jacket is circulated permanently. Behind it on the right the floater, which switches off the heater if the water level is too low.

     

    18437136-orig.jpg

     

    Used process water is pumped off. A bucket should be ready at hand. The wastewater hose is attached to the Filmomat and is part of the scope of delivery.

     

    18437137-orig.jpg

     

    Here the bleach/fixing bath is running.

     

    18437138-orig.jpg

     

    Done, goal is reached. The first colour film developed myself! No, wrong, it was the Filmomat!

     

    A perfectly developed Portra 400, no scratches, optimal density. It cannot be done better.

     

    --

     

    More details are available on my site:

     

    Filmomat - Colour film development with style in the living room

     

    Filmomat – Preparations for the first colour film development (C-41)

     

    Filmomat - Boarding completed!

     

    Filmomat – my conclusion

     

    Filmomat - the pictures

  3. <p>Looks the same as the G series for the <em>Nikon F3</em> (see <a href="http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/classics/nikonf3ver2/screens/index.htm">here</a>). Description by Nikon (original manual):<br /> "Clear Fresnel field with extra-bright 12 mm microprism focusing spot for viewing and focusing in poor light. Four models (G1-G4) are available correponding to specific focal length lenses. Depth of field cannot be observed."</p>
  4. <p>I got a power winder which only works when you hold it horizontally or headfirst attached on the New F-1. If you hold it normally it immediately refuses transporting the film and winding up the shutter. Firing the shutter by using the winder shutter buttons works in every position. Hitting the winder more or less gently solved the problem for some time but after another knock same situation as before.<br /> I think something inside loses connection. Any idea how to fix this as a layman?</p>
  5. <p>Rick, the 17/4.0 should have more depth of field but in practice there is no remarkable difference to me. Regarding vignetting, distorsion and CA it depends of course on your workflow and your themes. As I edit all my scanned pictures in Adobe Camera Raw I generally do not care much about such issues as this is fixed easily. But as both lenses are very well corrected there is no extra work to do except fixing distorsion (see http://www.subworld.at/media.html?image=4c8bbe1976783078597192.jpg > 17/4.0).</p>
  6. <p>Some demo shots published on my website last autumn (German) - I really love these two gems! :-)</p>

    <p>New FD 17/4.0: http://www.subworld.at/blog.html?b=445<br />New FD 20/2.8 http://www.subworld.at/blog.html?b=444</p>

    <p>Details:</p>

    <ul>

    <li>Canon T90</li>

    <li>Ilford HP5 Plus</li>

    <li>Ilfosol 3</li>

    <li>Nikon Super Coolscan 5000</li>

    <li>scan software: NikonScan (auto mode)</li>

    <li>no further picture editing</li>

    <li>sorry no shooting data available</li>

    <li>location: Vienna/Austria</li>

    <li>click for larger picture</li>

    </ul>

  7. <p>Carl, the F-1 generally is rare on the market and it seems to me that the US are better provided with mint or near mint ones.<br /> My experience with US vendors (ebay) is positive: detailed presentation, good communication, quick dispatch, offer and item do match. The only drawbacks are time for transport to Europe and sometimes troubles with customs (eg. false declaration). As a purchaser you benefit from ebays strict protection measures.<br /> I agree with kerkko that the currently cheap dollar rate (compared to Euro) encourages Europeans to buy in the US.</p>
  8. <p>David, several months ago I sold a focusing screen for my Nikon F3. I owned three items of that type. Till today I regret this sale deeply. I have no rational explanation for this. Maybe because every outfit not produced anymore is rare and therefore valuable (not only in terms of money)?</p>
  9. <p>Thanks Philip, I tried it also with lens off but the problem stayed :-(<br>

    I just have noticed that a sticky part of the mirror pad has hit the screen. So I think it is the best to stop any further testing and bring the camera to the repair shop of my confidence in Vienna/Austria.<br>

    To save my weekend I have just ordered another F-1 in the States ;-) This one has been given a CLA and has been completley overhauled replacement of mirror pad and light seals included. Despite the Austrian customs and taxes I am convinced that this was the right decision :-) <em>And my FD glass in the cabinet awaits eagerly the arrival of the new black knight ... ;-))</em></p>

  10. <p>Philip, thank you very much for you efforts! Great to hear that it works :-)<br>

    Thanks for your hint but the counter is not the problem as the issue arises before the counter reaches zero.<br>

    Meanwhile I think that the problem has to do with a sticky mirror pad which causes a mirror movement out of synch (please see my other thread I started today). The timing mirror - shutter should be very delicate especially in highspeed mode so I could imagine that any interruption confuses the interaction. On the other side continuous shooting works flawlessly in shutter priority and override mode ... (?)<br>

    However I will let replace the mirror pad and hopefully this will fix the issue. The F-1N is such an awesome machine which cannot be destinated only for vegetating in the glass cabinet ;o)</p>

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