andreas_thaler1
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Posts posted by andreas_thaler1
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That's one fancy and expensive fishtank! I don't think I'd want it on display in my living room though.
One should not underestimate the fun it brings at home ;-) As well as a more comfortable workflow.
The statement the device is too expensive is often heard. But if compared with a decent DSLR or a set of new wheels for a car ...
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I recently bought a copy of the still rare Filmomat.
"The fully automatic film processor for your living room. For 35mm, medium format (120/220) and large format (9x12, 4x5", 5x7") - from bw negatives to color slides."
Automatic film processor | Deutschland | Filmomat
This machine is manufactured and distributed by a young guy in Munich/Germany. Located in Vienna/Austria I have tested it developing my very first color film and I am very satisfied with handling and results.
This is my review. I want to state explicitly that there is not any business relation between me and the vendor than being a customer :)
Filmomat – it does not get better!
I simply could not wait until the weekend to test the machine.
So I grabbed my Olympus in my lunch break and went out into the neighbourhood to have the first candidate for the Filmomat.
35 pictures were quickly taken and I started off in the late afternoon.
In the changing bag, I cracked the Portra film cartridge with the cartridge opener. As always, the end of the film has be cut with a round edge, so the film is not caught in the reel. I managed to do that – surprisingly – well ;-) Before, I had to practice a little on the Jobo reel, as it has to be fed in a different way than the Paterson, which I have been used to for decades.
Then I started the filling of the Filmomat. It takes quite a lot of water for the water jacket to temperate the film tank and the chemicals. Additionally it needs rinsing water, which goes into the rear part. Litres flowed. Then the film tank is attached and connected with the cable. This way, the tank is agitated and the reel bumped of the base of the film tank. Here, the developer and the bleach/fixing bath are already filled. The latter one a brown sauce. Better put on protective gloves and goggles. The Filmomat is now started, now it heats up the water jacket to reach the process temperature intended for C-41. Fever: 38 degrees. Wait, watch and be amazed. The machine hums, an active fan makes sure the power supply unit is cooled.
Another perspective
Filmomat in action. The Tetenal C-41 process has started. Now the film tank has to be pre-flooded. At the bottom the total remaining time.
The set temperature has been reached. Above the present temperature of the water jacket, below the temperature of the chemicals. The Filmomat makes sure the temperature is kept and has a couple of tricks in its programming to make sure the cooling-off of the chemicals between the runs is compensated. Hats off!
The Filmomat’s inner water world. In the front the heating element, behind the water filter. The water jacket is circulated permanently. Behind it on the right the floater, which switches off the heater if the water level is too low.
Used process water is pumped off. A bucket should be ready at hand. The wastewater hose is attached to the Filmomat and is part of the scope of delivery.
Here the bleach/fixing bath is running.
Done, goal is reached. The first colour film developed myself! No, wrong, it was the Filmomat!
A perfectly developed Portra 400, no scratches, optimal density. It cannot be done better.
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More details are available on my site:
Filmomat - Colour film development with style in the living room
Filmomat – Preparations for the first colour film development (C-41)
Filmomat - Boarding completed!
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<p>Looks the same as the G series for the <em>Nikon F3</em> (see <a href="http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/classics/nikonf3ver2/screens/index.htm">here</a>). Description by Nikon (original manual):<br /> "Clear Fresnel field with extra-bright 12 mm microprism focusing spot for viewing and focusing in poor light. Four models (G1-G4) are available correponding to specific focal length lenses. Depth of field cannot be observed."</p>
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<p>JDM you are welcome! can-info is a perfect completion for German speaking users as there are some dedicated FD experts present (eg. moderator Thomas).</p>
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<p>Phantastic news which I will forward to http://www.can-info.de (German Canon forum where also FD topics are dicussed).<br>
Just ordered a copy at Amazon but the book currently is not available yet.<br>
Thanks for informing :-)</p>
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<p>The shutter should be raised when mounting a lens on the (New) F-1.</p>
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<p>Some comments regarding the optical performance of this zoom lens?</p>
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<p>Mark, what did you not like about this lens?</p>
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<p>Rick, thanks I already own the New FD 50-135/3.5 :-)</p>
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<p>This lens can quite often be seen on ebay to moderate prices. What about the performance of this zoom? I would be glad to get any opinions as I consider a purchase.</p>
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<p>No use for this as I am still happy with my Ilford Deltas as well as HP5 Plus :-) B&W always should be developed by oneself to achieve best results. So I do not mind labs disappearing as long as chemicals and developing stuff are available.</p>
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<p>I got a power winder which only works when you hold it horizontally or headfirst attached on the New F-1. If you hold it normally it immediately refuses transporting the film and winding up the shutter. Firing the shutter by using the winder shutter buttons works in every position. Hitting the winder more or less gently solved the problem for some time but after another knock same situation as before.<br /> I think something inside loses connection. Any idea how to fix this as a layman?</p>
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<p>Rick, the 17/4.0 should have more depth of field but in practice there is no remarkable difference to me. Regarding vignetting, distorsion and CA it depends of course on your workflow and your themes. As I edit all my scanned pictures in Adobe Camera Raw I generally do not care much about such issues as this is fixed easily. But as both lenses are very well corrected there is no extra work to do except fixing distorsion (see http://www.subworld.at/media.html?image=4c8bbe1976783078597192.jpg > 17/4.0).</p>
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<p>Some demo shots published on my website last autumn (German) - I really love these two gems! :-)</p>
<p>New FD 17/4.0: http://www.subworld.at/blog.html?b=445<br />New FD 20/2.8 http://www.subworld.at/blog.html?b=444</p>
<p>Details:</p>
<ul>
<li>Canon T90</li>
<li>Ilford HP5 Plus</li>
<li>Ilfosol 3</li>
<li>Nikon Super Coolscan 5000</li>
<li>scan software: NikonScan (auto mode)</li>
<li>no further picture editing</li>
<li>sorry no shooting data available</li>
<li>location: Vienna/Austria</li>
<li>click for larger picture</li>
</ul>
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<p>Michael, that's a Nikon MK-1 Firing Rate Converter:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>... provides the benefits of the AH-2 and AH3 tripod adapters, plus a vertical firing button with a collar that allows you to limit the firing rate, between 1 and 3 frames per second. => http://www.camerapedia.org/wiki/Nikon_F3</p>
</blockquote>
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<p><em>Canon New F-1 and Nikon F3HP: Once rivals now sisters ...</em></p>
<p><img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/11943811-lg.jpg" alt="" /></p>
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<p>John Anthony, keep your Nikon F3! It is a wonderful tool and a very worthy rival of the Canon New F-1! ;-)</p>
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<p>Carl, the F-1 generally is rare on the market and it seems to me that the US are better provided with mint or near mint ones.<br /> My experience with US vendors (ebay) is positive: detailed presentation, good communication, quick dispatch, offer and item do match. The only drawbacks are time for transport to Europe and sometimes troubles with customs (eg. false declaration). As a purchaser you benefit from ebays strict protection measures.<br /> I agree with kerkko that the currently cheap dollar rate (compared to Euro) encourages Europeans to buy in the US.</p>
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<p>David, several months ago I sold a focusing screen for my Nikon F3. I owned three items of that type. Till today I regret this sale deeply. I have no rational explanation for this. Maybe because every outfit not produced anymore is rare and therefore valuable (not only in terms of money)?</p>
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<p>Update: My F-1 has just been serviced and everything works now as it should :-))<br /> Due to the rotten and sticky mirror bumper the camera failed to synch in aperture priority mode. Since the mirror runs free the problem is fixed. A big thanks to all of you who advised!</p>
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<p>Thanks John I apologize for the unclear term due to my too limited English :-(<br /> In German the word for this mode is "Nachführmessung" (if someone should once get a German manual for a Leica ... ;-)</p>
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<p>Thanks Philip, I tried it also with lens off but the problem stayed :-(<br>
I just have noticed that a sticky part of the mirror pad has hit the screen. So I think it is the best to stop any further testing and bring the camera to the repair shop of my confidence in Vienna/Austria.<br>
To save my weekend I have just ordered another F-1 in the States ;-) This one has been given a CLA and has been completley overhauled replacement of mirror pad and light seals included. Despite the Austrian customs and taxes I am convinced that this was the right decision :-) <em>And my FD glass in the cabinet awaits eagerly the arrival of the new black knight ... ;-))</em></p>
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<p>Philip, thank you very much for you efforts! Great to hear that it works :-)<br>
Thanks for your hint but the counter is not the problem as the issue arises before the counter reaches zero.<br>
Meanwhile I think that the problem has to do with a sticky mirror pad which causes a mirror movement out of synch (please see my other thread I started today). The timing mirror - shutter should be very delicate especially in highspeed mode so I could imagine that any interruption confuses the interaction. On the other side continuous shooting works flawlessly in shutter priority and override mode ... (?)<br>
However I will let replace the mirror pad and hopefully this will fix the issue. The F-1N is such an awesome machine which cannot be destinated only for vegetating in the glass cabinet ;o)</p>
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<p>Mark, if so than I would be really happy because the replacement of a simple mirror pad (and light seals) is an affordable repair ...</p>
Filmomat – it does not get better!
in The Wet Darkroom: Film, Paper & Chemistry
Posted
Handling is easy - just dilute the chemicals for multi usage, fill in and start the (pre)programmed process. Cleaning is done automatically by the Filmomat it is just to fill in water into the storage tank and to press a button :)