steve_fox

<p>Hi,<br>

Anyone has Malcolm's contact information - eMail address? Thanks</p>

<p>Hi Dave,<br>

This is not junk. It's a pretty good camera and all works well except a bit dirty.<br>

Cosmetically it is good as well - very little and minor ding and scratch type of thing.<br>

I am not trying to do CLA. Just general cleaning of the surface and buttons.<br>

Thanks for the info.</p>

<p>Hi,<br>

Does anyone know how to remove the high speed dial?<br>

I am trying to do a general cleaning and need to remove the top cover and this is the<br>

piece that I cannot remove, even though I have instructions.<br>

Thank you. Stev</p>

<p>Hi Koray,<br>

How do you disassembled the front group? Thank you.</p>

Not a direct comparison of M1 and other scanners but I believe it

s useful and helps

Microtek M1 is an upgraded 1800F (1800dpi). Here's a comparison of 1800F with Heidelberg drum scanner, Nikon LS-8000 and Epson 4870. the article is in Chinese so pls just take a look at the pictures.

http://article.xitek.com/showarticle.php?page=1&id=1656

Heidelberg

http://www.windgo.com/pingce/haidebao.jpg

Nikon LS-8000

http://www.windgo.com/pingce/8000ed.jpg

Comparision

http://www.windgo.com/pingce/daocheng1200.anbu01.jpg

http://www.windgo.com/pingce/daocheng1200.anbu02.jpg

http://www.windgo.com/pingce/daocheng1200.anbu03.jpg

http://www.windgo.com/pingce/daocheng1200.anbu03jia2.jpg

http://www.windgo.com/pingce/daocheng1200.401.jpg

http://www.windgo.com/pingce/daocheng1200.402.jpg

http://www.windgo.com/pingce/daocheng1200.402rh.jpg

1800F Scan

http://www.windgo.com/pingce/600dpirenwu.jpg

The M1/F1 is a 4800 dpi scanner and as such, it should be better than the 1800F.

Hope this helps.

This thread is almost 4 years old. I read several times. I have an update which can be considered related.

I had one of my Rodinal worked for about 3-4 years no problem. In early 2007, I opened a new one and after a few months, I had a Rodinal failure - the 1st ever with all my development with all kind of developers.

You have to be careful that Rodinal starts to crystallize, other than turned dark brown (which is not an issue) I believe it's crystallization that killed my Rodinal.

Now whenever I prepare my Rodinal, I warm the whole bottle up in wam water, shake it well then get whatever amount I need. Since then, no more failure.

In a word, be careful with old Rodinal. When it happens, it happens, no warning !

Sorry folks, there is a typo in Frank's name in my last comment. It should read:

Pls note that Frank Van De Wiel's User Manual URL has changed http://aparatyfoto.republika.pl/k_hexar.pdf

Pls note that Frank Van De Viel's User Manual URL has changed

http://aparatyfoto.republika.pl/k_hexar.pdf

Yes, there's more fun in B&W.

More info regarding Rodnial:

1) I use only Reverse Omosis water (Or you may use distilled water) for everything - presoak, developer, rinse, stop, fix, hypo, photo flo etc. Only the last step rinsing is with running water. Water may be the key of success.

2) I buy 500ml Rodinal. Then devide it into 100ml smaller bottles - use brown glass 100ml "soft drink" bottles. This is important. Rodinal gets oxidized easily, and there are deposites as well. Interesting thing is, even oxidized and with deposites, it still works for me. In fact, I worry about the deposites, which means some chemicals crystalized and possibly altering the composition of the solution. However, so far so good. Still works.

Here's another TP photo. TP-135, 1+300 Nikon 35/1.4<div></div>

I have a tiny pipette that can measure 0.005ml. This is the fact, not fiction. I use a 10ml measuring cylinder to measure, then use the pipette to measure the rest to the reqruied amount.

The reason why I post the amount is, many people thought that there is a "mininimum required amount" for Rodinal. I use very small amount of Rodinal for all my processing with 100% success rate.

For example, for a 35mm rool, I use 3.2ml +236.8ml for 1+75 ratio. Also, my Rodinal is almost 2 years old. Hope this helps.

Janet,

Try this: Rodinal 1+300 20C 14m 30s, about 5-10 turns in first 30 sec followed by 1 turn in 60-90 sec. Result is very very close to using Kodak Technidol. Excellent results.

Hasselblad 80/2.8 Planar Rodinal 1+300 (1.33ml+400ml)14'30"<div></div>

Folks, the only thing I want to say is, Biogons are not Retrofocus design. It's true quasi-symmetric design. Grandagons and Super Angulon are basically a Biogon design but I don't know who got this design first (i.e. Zeiss, Schneider or Rodenstock ?) Zeiss Distagons are Retrofocus design and can be mounted on a SLR.

Stev