erich_budeshefsky2

I called Speedotron just a few minutes ago, and tried to compare my 2401SX versus the current 2401SX2. And they didn't give me much difference since they thought I had a different pack like a 2403 or something.. But the SX lines are indicated to be much more robust having better resistors and matched capacitors. And I metered the flash durations to be near 1/900 at full power. So I can get fairly crisp action sport flashes all day long.

<p>I was thinking of the Nissin 'machine gun' flash.. which has a studio style tube, and provisions for high voltage battery.</p>

<p>LINK~~ http://www.nissindigital.com/mg8000.html</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Would a photographer get in trouble if she/he said they only do legally sanctioned weddings?? </p>

<p>I researched the same sports releases from the Super Bowl.. It kinda puts out that sports is dangerous, and that you are aware of the dangers. In addition, it releases the team, the venue, and even the city where it is being hosted from being sued. </p>

<p>I am going to copy some of the passages to the Roller Derby release, and let the team deicide what to accept and what to throw out.</p>

<p>I help out a local roller derby team with images, and since I work around releases for photo shoots. They asked me to make a release for photographers to release the sports team from being sued if the photographers get hit during coverage. </p>

<p>So I am asking what else would go into that release?? Any safety related items I may miss?? Any insight..</p>

<p> </p>

This just occured just about an hour ago.. I have a 18-200 Vr-g lens, and it

is now stuck at the 28mm range. It will work just fine from the 18-28mm

range. Torqueing on it does nothing...would not budge. Other than

sending it in.. any suggestions??

 

 

Erich

What I meant is where is a good place to shoot these performers other than inside the casino... After all, the casino do not like cameras.

 

I wanted to know some great locations off the beaten path to shoot these performers. I already know about Red Rock from the Greenspun article as well as Fremont Street. So I posted asking for some great ideas.

OK,

 

I am going to the Pagent in Las Vegas with my Large Format camera.. I would

like to know some great locations to shoot burlesque performers. Casinos do not

like cameras and their owners, so I am picking your brain for some ideas.

 

The pagent is this weekend, so I am on a short fuse to light..

Mister,

 

I want to say, "good work" on your selection of that S9000 camera. Nine megapixel is more than enough for resolution under ideal conditions, although those dSLR have more range of seeing into the shadows that would win photography awards. But again, the photographer at crime scene can use ISO 800/1600 to see more into it. I find that the S9000 ISO didn't quit at 400 like other cameras. Noise is well-controlled for a super zoom compact ; I think Fuji super CCD is working good. My friend who shoot high school seniors uses a S2 like Mr. Ratzlaff, and his clients can't tell it is really a digital or film camera. I suspect court juries would be the same.

As for the use of dSLR's in courts.. I do know Nikon D200 as well as the D2X have Lexar's Locktight technology to maintain file integrity by use of passwords and encyption to save the evidence from being changed. You can't even format the CF card without the password. So I do hope the see Nikon's in court soon..

I even read the forum posts about Askey's review on dpreview.com, and boy... feathers are ruffled a bit. Some claiming better resolution, to that direct print button which people say could have had another use.

 

In my view, it was a fair review. Askey compared it to more expensive bodies, namely the d200 and the 5d. And the 30d held its own for its price range. I used the 20d, so I know what to expect from Canon, and the improvements are just enough to generate interest. I mean, Canon DSLRs really needed a spotmeter. Though that spotmeter does seem a little FAT ; I would probably have to zoom in to get a good reading, but whew, we really asked for one.

 

The 30d should have came to the market six months ago.. I know the 20D owners would have been angry, having a new Canon out so soon. But it would have helped Canon sales for christmas and stimulate Canon printer sales with that direct print button. I guess they are following Kodak's hat with the button.

Memory cards do have a finite life of formatting and writing. I have a computer friend who uses flash memory for computer work and his usually last about one year. So it might be good to find out which one is older and take a look at its life.

 

Of course with six cards, more is always better.. but I do not feel it would be necessary to purchase a set just for the new camera.

Hi,

 

I am comparing both the USB 2.0 versus Firewire versions of the all-

black Professional CF reader..The one you can stack. Anyways, I am

wondering if there is much of a difference in speed on each reader.

If I purchase two black firewire readers, would it be downloading the

CF cards faster than two black USB readers??

 

When you have a stack of CF cards, you begin to dread the download at

times.. Anyways, I checked the search engines for people

experiences with this reader, and I couldn't find much about it.

Even though the 30d is "only" a 8MP camera, the value is better, since the megapixel race is slowing down, hence the recycled sensor for the 30D. Meanwhile, the 5D still has to pay for it's FF sensor by passing the cost to the consumer. Yes, Canon paid for the research and development of CMOS FF sensors, and that gets passed to us. $3000 USD is a lot of money for a body-only camera. Top-of-the line film cameras like Nikon F5 and Canon EOS-1 never costed that much for the body when those bodies was introduced back in the day.

 

The "sweet spot" for most consumers is from $2000 USD and under. It allows most people build a kit up (body,lens,xtra battery,CF cards, etc.) without breaking the bank or telling high school girlfriends to starve a little for their art. And to echo Kelly Flanigan's words, use what works.. I used to be mad at Canon for abandoning my beloved FD lenses, and was forced to sell those to get the new EF mount for EOS. Using EF lenses is great, but I wonder if Canon would drop the mount again..always when you have a investment in their glass.

I am one of those who came back to Nikon. My current SLR is a d200 like your friend. My old Nikon before leaving was a F5, which was a good camera, but I felt that the Minolta Maxxum 9 was better, especially at its user interface. Sadly, it was stolen by my ex, while I was on deployment. Nevertheless, I am glad I came back to a D200. That machine is just something...perfect flash exposures and I am amazed at the battery info.

 

OK OK.. enough ranting...

I have a Toyo 45G camera and I just use a Minolta Booster II attachment for my TTL. It reads right off the ground glass and I'm in and out, without loosing too much time.. It's really fast and I can bias the measurement for highlights or shadows...

I would have to second Ellis post. I have both the FlashMeter VI as well as Autometer IVf. And there is no accuracy loss on either. Now the Sekonic flagship meter looks really nice with the cordless trigger as an option. But I really like the slightly larger display on the Minolta as well as the cleaner design.

 

But back to your question, I don't feel that the Minolta meters that I own would lose their accuracy in a few years. It does trouble me that accessories may be hard to find. Thanks heavens I got a booster set as well as a spare dome...

I really like it. Larger display so it is easier to read than most meters. Very consistant measurments--in fact Minolta meters are famous for the rock-solid measurements. Handling the meter is great but not the best since it doesn't have the built-in radio function like Sekonic meters, but that doesn't affect me since I do not have Pocket Wizard radio slaves, and it isn't really a pocketable meter, but it has a great neck strap which ID's you as a photo geek.

 

Other things to notice--rubber buttons and grip, which is great in wet weather. Mine works in the rain, but I haven't been in a monsoon, so your mileage may vary. The meter has both digital and scale readings. I use mine for LF work, since Minolta has a ground-glass attachment and it uses AA batteries which is available anywhere..

It is easier to develop a lens that stabilize the image. Canon did this the t80 camera which had a accessory lens that auto-focus. I think it was the same year Minolta came out with their Maxxum 7000, which is a auto-focus on the body. Of course, people hee'd and haw'd about buying new minolta lenses so they can auto-focus. But look at the world today..most manufacturers have a body-integral auto focus camera.

 

Contax was first to make a auto-focus camera that can still use manual Zeiss glass. It moved the film box on ceramic rails. I think the model was called the AX. Anyways, It lasted for a few years.. Now Minolta started it on the digital front with their Maxxum 7D, which uses Maxxum glass all the way back from the original maxxum (1985 maxxum 7000)

 

If you look at the previous posts about the maxxum 7d, some people say it isn't good against their canon or nikon. But you have to see it is different even against the same image. Minolta doesn't sharpen in the camera as hard as other cameras, so it doesn't look right compared against a canon. But the lenses you have is such a deal compared against lens-built IS. The Minolta 70-210/f4 can be had for about $150.00 Canon 70-210 IS is hundreds of dollars more. Plus you can have all those juicy prime lenses 85mm/100mm/135mm for cheap and in an IS for a Minolta.

 

I don't own the Maxxum 7d, but I still have my Contax and I have to say having a quality lens making the image is better than how fast I can shoot five frames. I actually take less shots now, knowing I 'got the shot'.

Hi,

 

I want to know if there is a formula for determining the power

needed to light up a room. This room has 13ft ceilings and no

natural windows. It is a artist loft, and I am trying to figure out

how many strobes do I have to rent/buy to outfit it for my

photospace. The walls are about 40x70. I am figuring about 2000

watts. Can anyone check my calculations ???

Sekonic does have that cool wireless feature. But I have two Minolta meters (FlashMeterV/AutometerIVf). Why??? They are consistantly accurate. And I like the bigger display. Yeah, I have wireless triggers, but it is just as good to unplug the Pocket Wizard from the meter to the camera. I have a Speedtron Black Line 2000, so I only need two transcrievers, One for the block and another for the camera or meter.

 

You can go either Sekonic or Minolta...Your preference will prevail.

My thinking on it, is that it may well open up the advanced amateur/hobbyist level to the world on anti-shake. Most of the Canon/Nikon lenses that are IS/VR is priced out of most casual users. So the K/M sensor would allow even the most casual hobbyist to shoot more. And there is a lot more casual users than there is professionals. Therefore it may well mean a lot of money for K/M since they can sell the digital bodies like hotcakes, since even the cheapest lens will be anti-shake. The professionals will migrate towards the full-frame digitals since they can get the full wide-angle lenses (and afford them too) On the K/M sensor, it won't be a full-frame unless they change the lens mount for the higher image circle for a really wide angle view with anti-shake engaged. And since the body- mounted anti-shake sensors are much larger than what could be installed on a lens body, the sensetivity on the K/M system is also better for the anti-shake. Thus giving the K/M sensor a faster response against shake.

 

I do not see owners of Nikon or Canon dSLR migrating to the K/M camp. But all the owners who do not have a dSLR of any brand would seriously consider the K/M system since the body is attractive ($1300.00) and the lenses are affordable.

As far as I know, the only major OEM to do the autofocus at the dim aperture of F/8 is the Konica/Minolta Maxxum. Canon's way of improving the autofocus speed is to use a faster chip than the last generation of Canon's to calculate the contrast of the AF area. Konica/Minolta method is to have a higher signal to noise ratio, thus their system can focus on things that have slight contrast like storm clouds for example.

And as for your last question...I believe Canon doesn't believe it would be worth it if they included it, so they don't put forth the effort. It's such a small segement of the photo community include the hardware just so they can use teleconverters.

 

I hope that helps...

 

Konica/Minolta also used to sell this 500mm mirror lens that had a fixed aperture of f/8. It had neat doughnut highlights because of the mirror design. But I am getting off the question a bit...

By using a larger sensor to 'see', the MTF gain for anti-shake on Konica/Minolta system is also greater. Canon's IS lens system has a 2-3 stop difference, and Konica/Minolta's version is expected to be higher difference--possibly from 3-5 stops. Case in point, comparing the Minolta A1/A2 to the Canon S1 with IS. Canon has 1/2.7" sensor, while the Minolta A2 has a 2/3". And Minolta has gotten accolades for the A1/A2 stabilization, while the Canon S1 didn't win any.

 

Studying the Canon IS design, it shares a common USM motor around the same movable lens. This saves costs, but it also limits the maximum F-stop to 2.8 So that is why you will never see a Canon IS lens faster than a 2.8. Konica/Minolta will take faster lenses and stabilize them too.

 

Konica/Minolta design is similar to Contax. They(contax) developed a 35mm film camera that will AF with MF lenses, by moving the box by microradians, thus saving owners from purchasing more Zeiss lenses. I know Minolta doesn't have Zeiss lenses, but at least they learned to make some good glass. I heard that Minolta engineers were trained by the Germans before WW II. The company they trained from is Rollei. So I am excited to see how Minolta glass stabilized compares against Canon's IS, particularly in extreme low light on the MTF bench.

 

Notice I keep saying MTF..MTF.. I know this is the best way to compare lens to lens. On a bench measuring light. No human preference to get in the way, as well as repeatability.

 

And about the earlier comment about a full-size sensor. Since the Contax design (a full-size 35mm film box) moves a few hundred micro-radians, I expect it to work on Konica/Minolta design since you can get that much space by increasing the mirror box a bit. So it will look a bit hefty when you look at it. And we haven't seen much full 35mm sensors since they cost so much. Manufacturers make more $$$ on the small sensors ie--have hundreds of 2/3" sensors made on each die, rather than tens of them full-sized. Also professional market share is a lot smaller than the consumer market share. How many have Hassie's versus Canon's????

Sounds like your alkaline battery on your Minolta is going.. The Minolta uses one single AA battery to power it, and the current loading after five readings drained the battery causing it to go inaccurate. The voltage on the AA was the same, so it didn't give you a "replace battery" indication. So replace the AA battery and you'll be fine.. Your mate's sekonic also probably has a fresh-er battery.

I use a Minolta Flashmeter V. It isn't the newest meter, but it like the Sekonic is consistantly accurate. Both have memories for multi-measurements of scenes. Both of them light up automatically at night. And both meters have nice big displays.

 

Why I use the minolta VS. Sekonic???? I liked Minolta's brightness difference function, so I can tell if the film can 'see into the shadows' well, or in the opposite effect, making sure the highlights aren't blown out. Plus you can also put in your own exposure correction in a Minolta.

 

In defense of the Sekonic, you have the option of a wireless trigger, so you don't have to trip over your flash cords. And you have a real long battery life using Sekonic's lithium batteries. Minolta uses a more common AA battery available anywhere.

Both meters are more than capable for use.. It can be boiled down to a taste of style, and user interface.

 

Good luck,

Erich