laurence_rochfort

March 26, 2016

Thanks for the responses, all.

It seems like the T90 does a really nice job of making spot metering intuitive, once you understand how it works! For somebody like me coming from the completely manual world of handheld meters and doing it all in your head, I think the real hurdle is understanding how much the camera does for you and how much of my old working method applies.

The indicator on the right of the viewfinder seems very useful once you understand what it's telling you. In fact this approach seems quite unique the the T90.

I'm looking forward to spending some time with the camera now!

March 18, 2016

Hello all, I've just bought my first ever electronic camera, a Canon T90. Up until now, I've been using a FED 2, Hasselbald 500cm, and a Travelwide. For metering, I've used with a Sekonic handheld meter for incident/reflective or a Pentax 1 degree spot meter as needed. I bought the T90 because I found a 50mm f/1.2 very cheaply and thought I'd try out an electronic automated SLR to see how I like it. There seems to be a hundred different ways of doing everything on this camera, all of which are completely obscured by marketing drivel and poor English in the manual. Coming from mechanical cameras I'm now very confused! I'd like some assistance with the spot metering, please. I understand that you can take multiple spot readings and bias the camera to a particular area by giving more readings in that location. I believe I'm correct in saying the camera will then average those readings out. Then additionally, there are up and down spot metering exposure compensation buttons (which are different from the main exposure compensation settings), that let you increase or reduce exposure to render shadows or highlights as you'd like. I think I understand how exposure compensation works if I meter for just a shadow, or just a highlight, or maybe one shadow and one highlight. However, I don't understand what affect the compensation has if I've metered multiple times, perhaps with a bias. So, some questions: 1) If multiple spot readings are taken, how is the averaging done? Does the scale on the right indicate what decision has been made? 2) What do the shadow/highlight up/down buttons actually do? Do they just drag the determined exposure up and down by so many stops? 3) Do the up/down compensation buttons operate on each reading one at a time, or the overall average? For instance, if I meter 3 times and compensate after each, will this work out differently to just compensating once at the end of taking 3 readings? I think I probably like the metering options on the T90, it's just I'm so used to doing this stuff in my head, I'm having a hard time understanding what the camera is doing for me, and whether I want it to or not! Thanks all. EDIT: There also seems to be three ways to take a meter reading. First, by half-pressing the shutter release. Second, by using the small button next to the shutter release. Third, by using the button under your thumb, next to the up/down buttons. I understand the second method locks multiple spot readings in for automatic averaging. What do the shutter release and thumb button do?

November 8, 2012

Thanks all for the suggestions.

I found an OP/Tech Super Pro Strap A for very little money so shall try that and report back.

If it doesn't work out I may try out the Black Rapid and Sun straps because they do look like they'd work well.

Cheers,

Laurence.

November 5, 2012

Hello.

I have the original Hassy 500c/m strap and as far as I can tell it's made from Teflon coated cheese wire!

I'm going on holiday to New York in December and would appreciate suggestions for a reasonably wide shoulder strap for the camera. I'd like the strap to fit the camera out of the box, without having to cannabalise the old strap for the connectors if possible.

Also, any ideas on how to stop the camera swinging around would be great.

Thanks all.

June 8, 2012

All very sound advice, thank you all.

I shall do my best not to be a stick in the mud and try the new paradigm. I can well understand how having the controls under the thumb and index finger of my right hand would be useful.

Perhaps one of the micro 4/3 SLR style cameras with a hand strap would be the way to go.

That said the DMC-L1 is intriguing.

I haven't yet recovered sufficiently from the price of the digital Hassy backs to comment on them!

June 8, 2012

A digital back? Could you elaborate?

June 8, 2012

Hello,

I'm going to make the switch from film to digital in order to cut costs. At present I use a Hasselblad 500cm and various rangefinders.

I've looked at several prosumer cameras, but the persistent use of the PASM wheel doesn't suit the way I'm accustomed to using a camera.

I really like the Fuji X100 control paradigm. Aperture ring on the lens, shutter on the body, both with an Auto setting.

Would people be kind enough to suggest other cameras that offer similar controls? I'll consider any type of camera, present or a few generations old, so long as the sensor is no smaller than Micro 4/3.

Many thanks,

Laurence

February 4, 2012

Hello everyone,

Thank you all for the comprehensive and contrasting responses.

To answer a couple of posters, I wouldn't say I'm a beginner, however I think it's often worthwhile to behave and ask questions as if you were. The moment you think you've heard it all before you can easily overlook the obvious.

The Rule of Thirds seems to be a good case in point. Arguments for and against aside, I think I shall go back to my photos and see how those I like and dislike fit in with the rule. I like the idea of going back and cropping my photos differently, I shall do so and then try to keep my observations in mind in future.

I had actually bought Michael Freeman's book the other day and like it a lot. The examples are clear and importantly offer different examples of initial composition and subsequent cropping. I found Principles of Composition for £8 online, so that's on its way too.

I will upload my photos for critique soon, but unfortunately I use film and can't digitize at present. I've just bought a digital camera because I think the instant review will prove useful.

Thank you all again.

February 2, 2012

By collecting, I mean storing links which I then display on my PC like a contact sheet. I'm not reproducing or displaying other photographers work.

February 2, 2012

I find I'm not very satisfied with my composition, I think I fall into the camp of people who will have to work at it rather than being gifted with inherent talent!

I've started collecting photos on this site and flickr that I find appealing with a view to analysing them, but could do with some advice.

I find I'm drawn to street photography, architectural and mechanical subjects. I think I've decided my images often lack a definite subject and consideration to tone and contrast.

To this end, I'm going to concentrate on black and white for a while, because I think it will help me hone my eye. Does that sound sensible?

Would people describe how they go about analysing and critiquing their own and other's photographs?

Many thanks, Laurence.

February 1, 2012

Simon, you are right about preconceptions affecting how one views somewhere. I suppose it's hard to find interesting images if I'm viewing a place with my prejudices rather than my eyes.

I do feel more eager to get out and photograph after having people give me a bit of a reality check so to speak!

I did some 120 night shots in London late last year actually, which was a blast. Fuji are very conservative about their recipricocity failure in my opinion. I'd post the photos, but I have no way of digitising my film at present.

I'm going to create a post asking how people go about analysing their and others work with a view to improving their composition, I'll be sure to cross-post for further pragmatism.

Many thanks all.

February 1, 2012

Newtown is wonderful. I grew up in Lymington and we often sailed over to camp in the woods for the night or stay in the bigger boat for the weekend. Of course, once I was older and discovered the delights of real ale, the walk up the gravel track to the pub found added appeal.

In fact one of my earliest photos was a rusted cog chain on some old piece of machinery at the small quay there. Probably taken on 110 or Kodak disc with a pocket money camera :)

February 1, 2012

Well corrected, Steve; that's what I get for typing whilst on a conference call at work I suppose. The Isle of Wiggit, we used to call it.

In fact the Island is a good case in point. In a small area there are numerous forts, piers, abandoned railway lines, the Black Night/Arrow site, steam railway and all the wonderful tackiness of the seaside resorts and Blackgang Chine.

If you get the chance you should walk the west estuary of Newtown Creek, there are some interesting hidden treasures up there. Also, the caretaker of Carisbrooke Priory used to be very obliging to photographers, there's some great stuff in the roof space and cellar.

Simon, I take your point about taking inspiration and expanding my repertoire by photographing what's available. However, I've been doing nothing but that lately due to limited time and wanted to draw on some local knowledge for something a bit different.

I'm just starting street photography and have found Dalston, Greenwhich and Notting Hill interesting for some candid street photography. I still feel like I'm doing something slightly suspect, but nobody has accosted me yet!

Do you have any suggestions for good locations in West and Central London when I have more time?

I'd love to get access to the old underground tram or mail-rail network, or maybe the Crossness pumping station, but I think the kind of "urban exploration" necessary is too bold for me!

February 1, 2012

I've gone into Slough and Bracknell and the depressing housing estates and I've also gone into London and Oxford to do street photography.

I'm posting here, not because I want pretty pretty cliche scenery, but because Berkshire doesn't seem to offer as much diversity as Hampshire and Dorset or London and Oxfordshire for that matter.

I will still travel to photograph, but it would be nice to have options at a shorter travelling distance.

In Hampshire there is the New Forest and wild animals, downs, commercial and military dock yards and pleasure marinas, the Castles and Marine forts, cathedrals and medieval cities as well as the Oil Refinery, Power Station hard 60s and 70s concrete architecture in Portsmouth and Southampton, I'm also able to go out on the boat to photograph as well as visit the Isle of White.

Dorset then offers a whole host of more rural and wild locations.

I grew up photographing at all these locations. None of the kind posters so far have listed anything like the variety found in Hampshire or Dorset.

February 1, 2012

Hello, I recently moved to Berkshire from Hampshire/Dorset.

I've been trying to find places to photograph and must say I'm a little underwhelmed at present. I've taken some photos around Reading and some of the nicer towns along the Thames such as Sonning and Henley. The rest of Berkshire seems to be comprised of 1960s new towns and hideous 1980s housing estates.

I usually either do street photography or landscape and architecture.

Can anybody recommend anywhere more inspiring? Ideally avoiding the various parks/nature reserves because frankly compared to the New Forest, South Coast and Dorset they're not up to much.

I know I can venture into London and Oxfordshire/Cotswolds, but would like to find somewhere close to home.

Cheers, Laurence.

January 13, 2012

Jody, the consensus seems to be that the Neg holders are critical.

How do you go about scanning the negs without them?

Cheers,

Laurence.

January 11, 2012

Oh, I work for a company that recently acquired a certain ex HP head honcho, so I know all about how they work.

So Epson are the way forward. The 4xxx series certainly looks encouraging. Do I just place the MF negs on the glass and scan or do I need a light box addition as with some of the old scanners?

January 11, 2012

I'd like to buy a cheap used flatbed scanner on eBay to scan medium format negatives.

Doesn't have to be fancy, just cheaper than the Epson Vxxx models.

Any suggestions?

Many thanks,

Laurence

January 10, 2012

Thank you both for your responses.

That's very encouraging, John, thanks for the clarification. I was surprised given the excellent work Kodak have put into their films recently.

I'm just finishing my stockpile of NC-3 and was very much looking forward to trying the new Portra and Ektar; it will be interesting to compare the new Portra with the old NC.

I'll take a look at Fuji 400H for education's sake.

Long live Kodak's film division!

January 10, 2012

Hello all,

I'm a long time Kodak user; I've always preferred their neg film and paper to Fuji.

I always found Fuji generally much to contrasty with a tendency to unnatural colour casts. I find their Crystal Archive paper even more unpleasant than their film, which can I can find acceptable on Kodak paper.

With Kodak's looming bankruptcy, can anybody recommend Fuji alternatives to Portra NC printed on Endura paper?

Many thanks,

Laurence.

December 8, 2011

I really appreciate the discussion from everybody here. I know it was a faintly ridiculous comparison, but people's comments reinforced what I felt.

After handling numerous M4/3 and APS-C compacts I find dislike the ergonomics very much. The APS-C cameras with their big lenses feel particularly off balance to me.

The NEX 7 with its two function wheels and a pancake lens is more appealing, but not worth >£1000 in my opinion.

I really like the iFunction facility on the Samsung NX{1,2)00, but the other controls aren't accessible and adding an EVF makes it too pricey.

I have a Hasselblad and a Minolta Hi-Matic RF for super-duper resolution/IQ images, so even though I wish the resolution on the X10 was higher it's the camera for me.

Kim Radcliffe's review was interesting, thank you. His images seem very post-processed to my eye; I prefer in-camera photography and barely post-process myself, but it demonstrates what can be achieved.

I think I'll wait until early next year and see if the X10 price drops somewhat.

December 6, 2011

I was thinking the GF1 because it's cheaper than the GX1 and would seem to still be acceptable. I would probably pick the 20mm prime on the GF1.

I just happen to be old fashioned and like the classic rangefinder way of doing things; the M4/3 all seem a bit fiddly, but I suppose I could get used to it.

December 5, 2011

@Leslie, I don't find that kind of response very helpful.

I use a Hasselblad 500cm and Minolta Hi-matic 35mm as my main cameras and am looking for a digital that will give the same uncluttered handling. I actually want only 3 controls, ISO, aperture and shutter and preferably very little else!

The operating philosophies of the X10 and X100 are fundamentally different; they may look similar, but they handle very differently. There's a knob on top and a ring on the lens on both, but they perform very different functions.

The X10 operates more like most compacts with PASM dial and jog wheel on the rear.

The X100 operates more like a Lecia and most old 35mm rangefinders, where the shutter speed is the knob on top and the aperture is on the lens. Aperture/shutter priority is implicit in how you operate the camera; it's much faster than selecting on PASM then twiddling a wheel.

December 5, 2011

Hello,

I was wondering if there are any other digital rangefinders/compacts that allow ease of access to shutter and aperture settings the way a Lecia M8/9 does?

The Fuji X100 does, admittedly without interchangeable lenses.

Can anybody provide alternatives for under £1000?

Cheers,

Laurence.

December 5, 2011

Lots of people seem to think the Micro 4/3 system is going to die, which is why I'm wary of it.

The Fuji X10 does seem nice, but I just wish the controls were more accessible.

Are there any compact cameras with a decent sensor size with the kind of usability of the X100?

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