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cyrus_beh

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Posts posted by cyrus_beh

  1. <p>Hi everyone,<br>

    I have a Pentax Spotmeter V, and I noticed that when I meter extremely dim areas (EV 1-3), the needle moves up by two-thirds of a stop when I push the indicator lamp button. Which reading should I believe - the one with or without the indicator light on? Is this a sign of a light leakage that should not exist?</p>

  2. <p>Hi Joseph,<br>

    I ended up sending the meter back to the seller. I checked with MAC and they estimated 240 for the repair, which would bring the total for the meter to around 400 bucks. That's a fair amount, but the uncertainty of the repair is something I didn't want to deal with. I picked up a L-558R instead. I hope that works better for me. Thanks!</p>

  3. <p>Hi Q.G., when I click on the Sekonic support link, I get directed to MAC. So I think that means that the technical guys at MAC have been given the proper training. In any event, does anyone known if the new Sekonics have quality control problems? I seem to hear about spontaneous meter death a lot.</p>
  4. <p>Hi Jim,<br>

    Thanks for your response. I've tried asking them but they just replied telling me that E-6 means that the meter is in need of service. I responded, reiterating that the error is E-4, but they stopped replying to my emails.</p>

     

  5. <p>A little update: tried new alkaline batteries, and still no luck. Have been cleaning the contacts with microfiber cloth and IPA for hours now. Fingers are sore and still no luck. Do I simply have a dead booster? It seems strange. When I put my multimeter to the contacts I can get 12.5V readings from them. When I connect two particular contacts, the motor drive actually activates (starts spinning). </p>
  6. <p>Hi guys,<br>

    <br />I just bought a Canon EOS 1n(HS?) with the Power Drive Booster E1. It has an insert for loading 8 AA cells in it for the camera. The problem is, I keep getting the 'bc' error when I load the batteries in. When I remove the power drive and load it with a normal C2R5 battery, the camera works fine. <br>

    Is the problem with my choice of batteries (Eneloop NiMH) or is it just a problematic Booster? I don't really want to go out and grab some alkaline batteries since I have no use for them (I have loads of Eneloop). <br>

    Thanks!</p>

  7. <p>Wow. That's quite a story. I am glad my camera didn't do the same. I would use a unchipped adapter, except the A2E is quite a nuisance of a camera. It refuses to meter when there is no chip on the camera, so I have to literally go completely manual. Which would have been ok, except that the A2E does not have a +-2-stop meter indicator, but instead uses a primitive Over/Under indicator. Let's hope my new EOS-3 will behave better. :)</p>
  8. <p>Hi guys,<br>

    I have an M42 adapter that has an AF confirm chip on it, and I routinely mount it on my Canon EOS DSLR and also Canon EOS Rebel film camera. The problem is, when I mount it on my A2E, it resulted in a completely drained battery over 2 hours (the battery was new). I wonder if there are any known issues with these adapters. Someone mentions this in passing when answering some other question about battery life (a post from 7 years ago!), but I have been unable to get any more information. <br>

    I am just wondering if I may have left the camera in a position where some button was depressed the last time and not notice it. That will in fact be the best case scenario since I really enjoy my M42 lenses. Thanks!</p>

  9. <p>Well, I figured there was little to lose if I were to apply the liquid patch and leave it to dry completely. The worst thing that could happen was damaging the curtain, which would have to be replaced anyway. And guess what? It worked like a charm! Extremely thin layers applied with a fine artist's brush and leaving to dry overnight, and then a second coat to patch remaining holes and voila~! A good as new curtain. Shutter speeds still seem accurate too!</p>
  10. <p>Hi all,<br>

    <br />I have a problem with my Leica M2 that I got recently. I have developed a bunch of film and after scanning today I noticed some over exposed spots on the negatives, and the strangest thing is that it always occurs on the same position. I know that a light leak might be responsible, but since I am mid-roll now I cannot test that directly. I am also unsure if light leaks will present themselves this way, since I always imagined they will be more streaky, if you know what I mean. Below are three images:<br>

    https://jshare.johnshopkins.edu:443/wbeh1/public_html/FileHosting/2-2-2011_009.jpg<br> https://jshare.johnshopkins.edu:443/wbeh1/public_html/FileHosting/2-2-2011_008.jpg<br>

    https://jshare.johnshopkins.edu:443/wbeh1/public_html/FileHosting/2-2-2011_013.jpg<br>

    <hr>

    <i>Mod note: Links substituted for oversized embedded photos.</i>

  11. <p>I live in Singapore, which is about 1-2 hours from Indonesia. The thing about the country is that the labor there is dirt cheap, and therefore there isn't a culture of training one's workforce. Unfortunately when it comes to precision hardware like a camera, the same strategy of pouring (unskilled) man-hours is employed.</p>
  12. <p>Hi all,<br>

    I tried searching online for a bit but cannot seem to find an answer to my specific problem.<br /><br />I have an AEII prism finder that I just received. I also possess two Bronica bodies, one ETRS and an ETRSi. When I half-press the shutter, the shutter speed readout on the prism seems to be accurate. However, when I actually press the shutter it seems that the shutter speed never goes below 2 seconds. I don't have the same problem on the ETRS body. I also tried with 2 different lenses in each case and the result is the same. Any clues? Thanks!<br>

    Cyrus</p>

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