joel_becker1

Well, this is depressing. I just popped back after a while away, and photo.net is ad-laden and subscriber-mostly-only. Yuk for me. I always enjoyed the forums, etc.

 

Now, don't worry Bob, I know you are an upstanding guy. I know you have to pay the bills. But as an infreqent user, I certainly can't justify a subscription. In addition, I'm really annoyed by ads like this (though the day-pass is nicer than Salon's). This isn't photo.net's fault. It just means I'm going to be coming here a lot less. Only when I need targeted info, not for the community.

 

Like I said, Yuk for me.

I have had great results, quality-wise, from all three E6 mailers (A&I, Kodak, and Fuji).

 

A&I: Best turnaround (2 weeks or so), cardboard mounts.

 

Kodak: Best mounts (nice plastic), 2-4 week turnaround.

 

Fuji: Cheapest mailer, but you'll wait a long time (usually 4 weeks or so).

 

Lately, my budget is such that I get the Fuji mailers.

 

When it comes to C-41, I'm usually in more of a rush and I can find a decent lab deal locally.

I think that, given an existing rule, the employer has a right to fire a transgressor. It like enforcing "morals" clauses in contracts. It is only enforced when it serves a purpose.

 

What really is an injustice is firing her husband, who had nothing to do with it. That is pure spite.

Skittish.<div></div>

I dislike G lenses because they don't work on my older bodies. You can make upgrade arguments. It's certainly a debateable point.

 

What I really dislike about G lenses is the pain in my wrists. With an aperture ring, I can go from f16 to f1.4 in a quarter of a second, and I can do it by feel. With the command dial on my friend's EOS body, It takes about four full spins of the dial -- even at half-stop increments -- and hurts my wrist the first time I do it.

I don't have to hypothesize. I have the camera. I'm not of that age, it was passed down to me. It's a Nikkormat FTN with the 50mm F1.4 Nikkor-S. It is the first 'real' camera I ever used, and I still choose it to sling over my arm when carting a bag isn't my object.

 

I even have a picture of my grandfather on the QE II in 1972. Around his neck is the FTN.

I haven't used the DSC-P8, so I can only comment on its dimensions. It is noticeably bigger than the Optio S. I own the Optio S, and I love it. I carry it in my pocket 24/7 (yes, in a padded Altoids case). I've taken so many pictures that I'd never have gotten, and I don't even notice the camera when I'm not using it.

 

The Optio S takes great pictures (on par with friends' Canon PowerShot S230s), and the controls are quite easy. Startup is very fast for a consumer digicam (turn off the startup picture - it wastes a second).

 

Assuming that the Sony is comparable in quality (I don't know), you should go to a store and play with both. If the images are similar, the compactness and usability are going to be the real difference.

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I started on my grandfather's FTn (chrome). I still have it and use it.

Ilkka, you are 100% correct that the *cost* of a G-capable body is irrelevant next to the cost of the 200-400mm F4 AF-S VR G lens. However, it doesn't change the fact that I *prefer* the ring. It also doesn't change the fact that a manual backup body (such as an FM2 or FM3a) is often a requirement for certain conditions.

And every one of the new lenses (including the tantalizing 200-400mm F4) is a 'G'.

I've been saying it for a year and a half now. The Kodak DX3600. 2MP, 2x zoom, $150ish now (was the best at $250 a year ago too). It uses CF. It is very easy to use. It prints great at 8x10" and very good at 11x14". My fiancee has loved it.

Robert,

 

Where can I get an eyecup for an N6006? I have an N6006, actually, but I've been unable to find the eyecups anywhere!

Are you sure this isn't a result of the single coating? Some old single coatings look yellow. My 50mm f1.4 Nikkor-S has a yellow cast, but it has yet to show up on film, so I've just ignored it.

I don't know that Nikon would be interested in new 'FM3A line' lenses. In general, this would merely mean a silver finish.

 

However, if you want a compact mid-telephoto, the 100mm f2.8 series E lens is one of the smallest and lightest teles ever made, and it performs much better than the 45mm you already own. It can be had for $100 used, so happy hunting!

Pre-flashes concern me for multiple reasons. For posed shots, they distract the subjects. For other shots, they alert the subjects. Candid photos don't work quite so well when you announce your presence.

This begs two questions. First, does D-TTL work at all, or is it as horrible as I've heard? Second, is there any chance of getting a D-TTL that doesn't involve pre-flashes?

This is well described in the lens general information section of nikonlinks.com, but I'll try as well. AI-s lenses have a metal cutout on the back of the lens indicating that the arpeture lever is linear. This means that if the lever is pushed halfway, the arpeture is closed halfway. AI lenses do not have this property. This is required for shutter priority AE and Program AE.The other issue is the various lugs. True AI and AI-s lenses both have lugs describing their maximum aperture. The maximum aperture is required for matrix metering. Only the FA and the F4 have the mechanical linkage required to read this lug. All other matrix meter cameras read the maximum aperture from the CPU chip, which is why they only matrix meter with chipped lenses. Non-AI lenses converted to AI often leave out this lug, and cannot be matrix metered with any body.To sum up: Matrix metering is a function of maximum aperture, and only the FA and F4 can read the lug on AI/AI-s lenses. AI-s is about shutter priority and program AE.

One nice thing about the EM is the accurate long night exposures. It doesn't mark the long exposure in the viewfinder, but it will take them.

 

If you don't want to spend a lot, get the Series E 100mm f2.8. A great lens, and the most compact telephoto Nikon has ever made. In fact, with the 50/1.8 and the 100/2.8, you have a great, lightweight kit.

Quality of image has little relation with the megapixel number. The pixel count has much more to do with print sizes.

 

I heartily recommend the Kodak DX3600. It's now over a year old, but it is a brilliant 2MP camera that works perfect for the tasks you describe. It is very cheap ($200-$250 new over a year ago) and works great with CF I cards.

 

This is the very camera my fiancee uses. It's always done the job.

Get an Nikkormat FTn. It's a great camera. The one I use used to be my grandfather's. You can use the zinc-air replacement battery instead of mercury cells, or you can get mercury cells from www.px625.com. There are other adapters sold for the batteries.

 

When buying lenses, however, make sure you get AI lenses. All AI lenses (and many AI-s lenses) were sold with the meter coupling prong. This is the prong that indexes the older Nikkormat and F cameras. So you can indeed use an AI lens on the Nikkormat FTn. The added advantage is that you can use the AI lens on a newer Nikon camera in the future. Buying non-AI lenses is a losing proposition, unless you find a great deal.

 

If you can, check the FTn's meter in the store. Attach a lens and put a battery in. The meter should at least appear to be working.

long Nikon user / examined G lens; bought new / Canon in spring

Cheating:

 

Nikon and tripod / Many Washington photos / Cherry blossoms fall

Mats, thank you! As soon as you mentioned clearance with the back, I looked at my camera. It's obvious the N6006's eyecup is a half-moon to clear the film door. That's gonna be my choice.

 

Since I wear contact lenses 90% of the time, that's my primary focus. But I hope it works with my glasses too. Thank you all for your responses.

Ok, so an eyecup is a good idea. But should I get the dedicated one, or the adapter and the DK-4 eyecup used on the pro cameras? Does the adapter even work like I think it does?

 

Thanks for the response, everyone.