richard baznik

<p>My GS-1 system is the same as Jim Peterson's -- 50, 65, 100, 150, and 200mm lenses. I looked at the 110 macro, but chose to pick up 18mm and 36mm extension tubes instead. It's cheaper (or at least it was) and provides more flexibility.</p>

<p>I've used an Epson 3200 for more than a decade to scan both MF and LF images. I routinely print 6x7 and 6x6 images at A3+ scale (13"x19") with very good results.</p>

<p>I've been very pleased with my Epson R2880, which prints up to 13" wide. Its color prints are excellent, and its B&W images are stunning. The latter is true in part because the ink set includes special black and gray tones.</p>

<p>Ditto on the recommendation of the Canham DLC45. As for the Plaubel, I had a 4x5 version for several years and loved it -- for studio work only, however. Plaubels are like post-WWII Mercedes Benz sedans: beautifully designed, over-built, everlasting, and anything but lightweight.</p>

<p>My first recommendation is to learn to do the processing yourself. It's not that hard, it gives you complete control over the outcome, and it's a lot less expensive. Failing that, however, I can recommend Labwork (http://labwork-bw.com/) here in Cleveland.</p>

<p>Here's another vote for a used Epson 3200 -- for MF and LF, not for 35mm. I bought one new back in the late 1990s (I think) and have used it without problems since then.</p>

<p>I agree on the choice of 6x7 rather than smaller formats. Think about the Bronica GS-1, a 6x7 system that I've been using for about 15 years. Prices are very good (KEH, *Bay, etc.) and there is a supply of used gear out there. Good build quality, good optics, lighter and more compact than the RBs. Only drawback is that you can't fit a digital back on the body.</p>

<p>Geoff said he wanted to shoot "streetscapes," not grab shots on the street, so I don't see a problem with using a view camera. My vote is for the Canham 45 DLC, which I've been using for about a decade. It's a great compromise between a field camera and a monorail.</p>

<p>Acros is a very fine-grained black and white film that normally produces a negative image. It's not like Polaroid Type 55, which produces both a positive image (on paper) plus a film negative. In addition, Acros needs to be processed outside the camera in a traditional wet-chemistry process. It's my favorite film for all formats, 35mm through 4x5.</p>

<p>See Fuli's data sheet, www.fujifilmusa.com/shared/bin/ProfessionalFilmDataGuide.pdf (Acros information starts on page 72).</p>

<p>K. B. Canham DLC45, a compromise between a monorail and a field camera. I've been using one for six years and have never had a complaint.</p>

<p>It does sound like the mirror problem is related to the MLU setting, which is indeed pretty arcane. Richard's method does work.<br>

More concerning is the battery issue. In general, lithium batteries are not recommended for the GS-1 because they drain down slowly and can lead to components malfunctioning without warning as the power level gets low. I would ask KEH to put a battery in another body and test it BEFORE they send it to you.</p>

<p>It does sound like the mirror problem is related to the MLU setting, which is indeed pretty arcane. Richard's method does work.<br>

More concerning is the battery issue. In general, lithium batteries are not recommended for the GS-1 because they drain down slowly and can lead to components malfunctioning without warning as the power level gets low. I would ask KEH to put a battery in another body and test it BEFORE they send it to you.</p>

<p>Jamal: Aside from Greg's kind suggestion to send it to him for disposal, I'd second everything that's been said thus far. I've been using a GS-1 system for about 12 years now (two bodies, lenses from 50mm to 200mm, four backs, two extension tubes, and even the dedicated flash) and have been completely satisfied with it. It's sturdy, with great optics and great metering. I chose it over the Mamiya alternatives because it's lighter and smaller. The only advantages the Mamiya has are built-in bellows, revolving back, and more used gear out there on the market. You will love the GS-1. Enjoy!</p>

<p>Acros is my film of choice when it's available in the format I'm using (I shoot 35, MF, and LF), and HC-110 B is my standard developer. I shoot the Acros at ISO 80 for images I will print in my traditional darkroom, and at ISO 100 (which yields slightly lower contrast) when I'll be scanning. In all, it's a great combination. </p>

<p>There is no reason why the 110 shouldn't work just as the 100 does, but I wonder if perhaps you have the mirror lock-up button activated. That might explain why you're only getting a click and no mirror movement when you release the shutter.</p>

<p>http://www.glennview.com/. I've also had great experience buying through Jim at Midwest Photo Exchange.</p>

<p>In the US, gear like this is often sold via the local boards on Craigslist, which can make it possible to find what you're looking for in your own community. Frequently it's then possible to pick it up yourself, eliminating the delivery charges which -- as Frank has noted -- can be very high for something like an 8x10 enlarger. There is a Craigslist board for Shanghai http://shanghai.craigslist.com.cn/). I suggest your friend post a "looking for" notice there.</p>

<p>About 15 years ago I inherited a mint Pentax 100 SLR from my father, and I ran about four rolls of film through it before selling it -- for a very good price, BTW. The first problem was finding decent film in that size. Even with that problem solved, I was never able to print larger than 5x7 with any confidence of a quality image. My expectations had been low to begin with, so I was not disappointed. I gladly retreated into the 35mm., MF, and LF worlds where I was already happy.</p>

<p>It would be better if the seller would allow YOU to run a few rolls of film through the camera before the sale is finalized. As for MF alternatives at that price, you might look at a TLR (e.g. Yashica) or, if interchangeable lenses are important, a Kowa Six system. Gary's suggestion of KEH is a sound one.</p>

<p>I've been a Bronica GS-1 (6x7 cm) user for the past dozen years or so and I've been very pleased with the system -- build quality, optics, reliability, flexibility, off-tripod usefulness. And the 6x7 format is for me a real asset over 6x6. I should say I also shoot 35mm (Leica M) and 4x5 (Canham DLC45). The downsides of the GS-1 system relative to the RB/RZ series are the following: less used gear out there; no rotating back; dependence on battery; no built-in bellows focusing. The GS-1's advantages include: lighter weight; OTF-metered dedicated flash; and compactness. If I were starting out from scratch and had found an RB/RZ system is as good condition as the GS-1 system I bought first, I would probably have gone the other way.</p>

<p>Actually in this case the animals are not so different. Compare the aperture on your 50mm Summicron stopped down to, say, f/16, vs. a "standard" lens on your MF gear, perhaps an 80mm or 100mm, stopped down to f/16. You'll see a difference as well, though not as great as the one between the Summicron and the Ektar. BTW, that Ektar 203 is a great little lens.</p>

<p>I shoot Acros 100 mostly in 120 format, and also in large format. I use HC110, dilution B, for 7 minutes at 20C. I rate the film at EI 80. It's an excellent combination.</p>

<p>Several issues here. Let me try to identify them:<br>

First, the Vivitar dial you've shown is set to ASA 160, not ASA 100. That will make a difference.<br>

Second, I assume you mean 15 feet, not 15 inches.<br>

Third, diffusing the flash would probably be more important than adding a gel. In any case, blue would not be my first choice if you want to preserve natural skin tones. Note that colored gels will have little impact on B&W film.<br>

Finally, you haven't said whether the picture will be simply of the bride and groom or of an entire wedding party. If the former, one 283 will probably suffice. If the latter, you will probably need at least two.</p>

<p>Several issues here. Let me try to identify them:<br>

First, the Vivitar dial you've shown is set to ASA 160, not ASA 100. That will make a difference.<br>

Second, I assume you mean 15 feet, not 15 inches.<br>

Third, diffusing the flash would probably be more important than adding a gel. In any case, blue would not be my first choice if you want to preserve natural skin tones. Note that colored gels will have little impact on B&W film.<br>

Finally, you haven't said whether the picture will be simply of the bride and groom or of an entire wedding party. If the former, one 283 will probably suffice. If the latter, you will probably need at least two.</p>

<p>I have only a second-hand knowledge of platinum printing techniques, but the approach you describe seems workable. The one element I would question is the one you say least about -- the scan. You will need to start with a very high quality scan of the 8x10 negative in order to optimize the 11x14 contact print. I doubt that a flat-bed scanner will yield this, so you might be in drum-scanner territory. Getting a number of these done commercially may begin to approach the cost of getting an 11x14 camera.</p>