dave_gesell

<p>The screen I ordered arrived last week, but due to a back injury and work, I haven't been able to do any shooting with it. First impressions are it's as bright, or slightly brighter than the standard Hassy screen, and the split image helps as expected. So, not a revelation in any way, but for $40 I think most people would find it an adequate replacement if you have a damaged screen.</p>

<p>I recently ordered one of the eBay split screens and I might have it in hand next week. I figured I'd try one out and see if it helps my aging eyes. I'll report back after I've had a chance to use it for a bit.</p>

<p>First I'd like to clarify that in my post yesterday afternoon, I was referring to the second 2200 that I got with the ink. The first one still has a clog or fault with the yellow, but I think I might set it up for B&W using the MIS Ultratone inks. In that set the yellow is replaced by a Sepia toner, and as I like my B&W prints neutral to cool the Sepia wouldn't get used.</p>

<p>Now to print results. My first test print today had banding the length of the print spaced about 1" apart. I cleaned the print head manually and am now getting prints that very closely match the image on the screen, so needless to say I'm very happy. All the carts in the printer were produced in early 2003. Obviously I can't compare these prints to ones done with new ink, but I'm also not seeing any immediate reasons to complain.</p>

<p>The final tally is: $48 (scotch) + $2.50 (potato chips) and a bit of elbow grease for one 2200 that works perfectly, one 2200 that can at least be used for B&W, and a whole bunch of ink. As Hannibal Smith used to say, "I love it when a plan comes together!".</p>

<p>Just a quick(ish) update for you all. Today I got the inks (4 complete sets plus 4 Matte Black and assorted extras), for a bottle of 12 year old Glenfiddich, and the fellow threw in his 2200 as well. I had to replace the Light Black as it was empty, but after a few cleaning cycles I was seeing great improvement from all the jets. I then replaced all the carts with the new/old ones and printed a nozzle check and everything looks good. I'm at work now so don't have access to any photo paper but I'm very optimistic. I should have time to print some photos tomorrow afternoon so I'll report back then.</p>

<p>Thank you all for your replies. When I got the printer home last night the magenta cart was completely empty. I've just popped the new one in and after a number of cleaning cycles we're mostly in business, except the yellow is completely blocked, so I might need to resort to one of the aftermarket cleaning kits. I checked the Epson Utility, and found out that all the carts except the new magenta I installed have production dates of May 2003! That leads me to believe the ones I'd get from the scotch enthusiast would be OK after a little shaking.</p>

<p>I recently traded a bag of potato chips (yes, really), for an Epson 2200 that saw very little use, and sat unused for at least the last year (or more). Another person says he has about 3 dozen factory sealed cartridges for that printer, and wants to trade them for a bottle of single malt scotch. The problem is that those ink cartridges are at least 3 years out of date. I know I'm going to have to run some ink through the printer to get it going again, but am I just throwing away good scotch on ink from 2008, and possibly inviting problems?</p>

<p> </p>

<p>A friend has acquired a Carnival 2020 back as part of a big package he bought. He's offered to give it to me for free, so I can muck about with it on my Hasselblad 500C/M. I've searched various forums, and did a general Google search, and the only information I've been able to find is that it's chip was 30mm x 30mm, 2048 x 2048 pixels, SCSI, and can be used in single shot or multishot mode. Since I can get the back for free, I'm not against spending some money to get it working just as a project, but I'd like to keep it within reason. And if there's any way to get it to work with my MacBook Pro (unlikely I know, but a person can dream) that would be good to know. So, if anyone is still using one (again, unlikely I know), or has experience with one and would be willing to share some knowledge, or has a scan of the manual, any or all of that would be fantastic.</p>

<p>Thanks.</p>

<p>I've never used a 645E, but I checked the manual here:</p>

<p>http://www.cameramanuals.org/mamiya_pdf/mamiya_645e.pdf</p>

<p>and it indicates that in AE mode, the LT function only controls the shutter speed "to give correct exposure at speeds between 4 and 1sec." If you go to that link, scroll down to page 19 for a fuller, though still incomplete explanation of that function. It seems like the LT indicator in the viewfinder just lets you know that the calculated exposure is longer than 1sec, but shorter than 8sec, which is longest exposure the camera will do in AE mode. Hope that helped.</p>

<p>Thanks for all the information.<br>

Chuck, I'm already set up to process B&W at home, and that's all I'm likely to shoot with the Junior Six-20, but if I do run some colour thru it, I'll remember your trick of (re) re-spooling the film back to a 120 spool! I just have to remember to hang onto them!</p>

<p>Kayam, really great work! I was given an Auto S2 recently and it's become my "carry it with me all the time" camera. It was in great condition except for some gummy (though still light tight), seals which I've since replaced. Love the quality of the lens, and the focal length. The Auto S2 is really a forgotten gem.</p>

<p>Thanks Walter. Given the film speeds in the late '30's, I'd guessed that the shutter speed would be in the 1/30 to 1/60 range. The shutter seems to be consistent at least, so that will help in figuring out the appropriate aperture number. On hand I have Fuji Acros 100 and Adox CHS 50. In the long run, my guess is that the Adox might be a better match, but for the initial testing I'll use the Fuji, if only because I have more of it, and it's quite a bit cheaper than the Adox.</p>

<p>I've recently been given this camera, and it's really in astonishing, near perfect condition. I've ordered a couple of 620 spools to respool 120 film onto, and I'm waiting for those to arrive. In the meantime, I'm trying to find out what the shutter speed is when the Kodo No.0 shutter is set to "I" (Instantaneous). I found a mention on another site that the aperture disc (numbered 1 through 4), correspond to f11 to f32, so once I find out the shutter speed, I can select an appropriate film.</p>

<p>Thanks.</p>

<p>Just an update to my previous post. I ended up getting a Tenba Shootout Medium backpack, into which I can put:<br>

the front (with 150mm lens mounted) and rear standards with the bellows in between them, 2 Grafmatics, roll film back, dark cloth, cable release etc, with room for a couple smallish lenses left over. The rail is stored in the outside back pocket. The whole kit weighs about 16lbs, but is quite comfortable to carry. If you don't mind a backpack Ray, you might want to consider something like that.</p>

<p>A plastic tool box could work. I'd also suggest arranging the folded camera, lenses etc. in your preferred configuration(s) and measuring that, then see if any toolboxes fit. You'll want to allow some room for padding which you should be able to get from an upholsterer. I've just acquired a Linhof Kardan Color 45s, which breaks down a bit smaller than your Korona, so I'm thinking I'll be able to get it into a mid size photo backpack. </p>

<p>Thanks to everyone for posting examples and exposure/processing tips. I'm going to order some Acros 100 and Adox CHS 50. Last night I successfully processed my first B&W film in ages. I'm very impressed with the Konica Auto S2 that I've recently acquired. Less so with the Pentax SMC-A 28mm that I had on my MX. The film bug has officially re-bit me. Now I'm watching a Crown Graphic on the big auction site.</p>

<p>Lord help me.</p>

<p>Jay, thank you for posting that lovely portrait! Of course, for a truly vintage look Juliet should be wearing a taffeta skirt, high lace collared blouse, and an elaborate hat.</p>

<p>And be holding a parasol.</p>

<p>Is the warm tone strictly from the Hypercat, or was that added later? Either way, beautiful shot.</p>

<p>John, re: Rollei Ortho, I'm wondering if some some of the ortho characteristics couldn't be aped with a cyan or blue filter. As I think more about this, an ortho look is really the opposite of what I usually like, as I normally have an orange or red filter on when I shoot B&W. I do like my dramatic skies.</p>

<p>Travis. A beautiful and, if you don't mind my saying, Westonesque shot. I've never tried stand development, but it takes my less is more approach to agitation to it's logical conclusion. I'm just putting the finishing touches on my 2 room darkroom, (bathroom for loading and drying - kitchen for processing and washing). I'll soon be able to put my old skills and everything I'm learning here into practice.</p>

<p>Thanks for all the input. This is really a great forum with a great bunch of knowledgeable and helpful people.</p>

<p>Success! And definitely economic. I stopped into a hardware store and picked up a foot of 12 gauge wire at 29¢, a drugstore for an 8 pack of 675 Z-A batteries at $8.99, and a bit of rooting around at home to find a suitable cylinder to wrap the wire around (a AAA battery), and I now have an Auto S2 with an operating meter that pretty closely agrees with the meter in my DSLR.<br>

Thanks for all the links and suggestions.</p>

<p>Tom, the DIY adapter I linked to mentions that for side contact battery chambers, you should use 12 gauge single strand (solid) wire, and strip the insulation off. For chambers that use the cap as a contact, he recommends you use 18 gauge wire, leaving the insulation intact.</p>

<p>Upon further investigation, I think I'll try, as Bob suggests, the 675 ZA batteries and try making an adapter as detailed <a href="http://rick_oleson.tripod.com/index-111.html">here</a>. Since the Auto S2 has an edge contact I'll just have to scrounge some single strand 12 gauge wire. I've got a long weekend coming up, so I have time to tinker. </p>

<p>Thanks all for the responses.</p>

<p>Lex, I now realize the relativity of my question. I'm not a fan generally of soot and chalk, but it's a look that can work for some images. The photographers that most influenced the young me in the early 80's were Weston, White and Strand, so I lean in the good tonal range direction.</p>

<p>John, I'll take a look at some ortho films. Any experience with Rollei Ortho 25?</p>

<p>I stopped at The Source on the way home and it turns out that the copy on the site is wrong. The battery is in fact 1.5v, so as I mentioned previously, I'll add a couple Weincells to my next Freestyle order, and when the first one dies, I'll try to hack it to use the appropriate ZA hearing aid battery. Thanks.</p>

<p>Tom, I agree that it's unlikely that kind of mistake would be made in the packaging. The error, if any, would be on the website, either the copy or the picture. There's a location in my neighbourhood, and it's on my way home, so no harm to stop in.</p>

<p>I'm soon to the proud (I hope) owner of a Vermeer pinhole camera, and I'd like to try some low to medium speed films that have an old fashioned look. I know about Adox CHS and Efkes R series. My understanding is that these are both the same 1950's emulsion, but I've seen more complaints about Efke, mostly about excessive curl and delicate emulsions. I'm curious to try Acros 100 as I've seen it described as being similar to Agfapan, especially when souped in Rodinal. I'm thinking about ordering some Adox 50 and 100, and some Acros 100. Any other thoughts? If recommendations would be developer dependent, my preferred developers are HC-110 and Rodinal.</p>

<p>Thanks. </p>

<p>Thanks for the responses. I was aware of the alternatives, but I was hoping against hope that this would be a easy solution. Andrew, thanks also for the reminder about Alkalines voltage curve. That had totally slipped my mind. I'm about to order some film from Freestyle, and they have the Weincell at a good price, so I'll add a couple to the order. I'll likely pick up one of the batteries I linked to. Maybe it's voltage will stay consistent long enough to cover me until the Weincell arrives.</p>

<p>I was recently given a beautiful Konica Auto S2. The foam seals are a little gummy but otherwise it's in astonishing condition, and I've fallen in love with it already. Of course the meter uses the discontinued PX625 Mercury cell, and in trying to find a suitable battery, I figured I'd try The Source (formerly Radio Shack), and found this:</p>

<p>http://www.thesource.ca/estore/product.aspx?language=en-CA&catalog=Online&category=Watch+Calc+Batteries&product=2300465</p>

<p>The description states it's a 1.35v cell, but the packaging, which doesn't say EXP625 anywhere on it, says 1.5v. Hopefully I can get to a store after work tonight and check it out. Anybody tried these batteries?</p>