peter_gaunt

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<p>About time the folks in the USA joined the rest of the planet in abandoning their quaint measurements :-)</p>

<p>Beware though that some labs will make your print too dark if you include a white border in the file you send them. A lot of the cheaper ones do this because they scan the pic and look at the 'brightness', making it lighter if they think it's too dark and darker if they think it's too bright. The white border fools them into thinking it's too light. One of my local cheap places will make sure they don't do this if you ask them but many of them won't because they haven't a clue.</p>

<p>If the software is advertised as useable on your system and you're sure your system is properly set up then take it back to the shop you bought it on and claim a refund since the Sale of Goods Act says that the goods must be 'fit for purpose'. It's the retailer's responsibility.</p>

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<p>... and behold there is hope :-) Thanks. Seems some enterprising soul needs to write some Mac drivers then.</p>

<p>Thanks ... it might well be what I'm looking for although, as Joseph said, these things are a bit temperamental so I'd have to be damned sure of it before committing any money :-)</p>

<p>I've been using the free Sofortbild and Aperture to capture stuff. Both work well for different purposes. In the blurb about Sofortbild on the website it says:</p>

<p>'Control your camera <em>remotely from your Mac</em> via USB or through wired or wireless LAN using a wireless transmitter.'</p>

<p>which I find intriguing. Must email the author and ask what he means.</p>

<p>Thanks all and to Joseph especially for understanding what I was on about. I know there would be loads of problems implementing USB wirelessly, cheaply anyway. That's one of the reasons why I asked. I couldn't find any definitive answers anywhere I looked.</p>

<p>Be nice to be able to tether the D7000 wirelessly, all the same using USB or otherwise. Whether Nikon's WiFi unit would work or not it's rather pricey for me: think I'll have to stick to using wired USB for now, methinks :-) If I do happen to come across anything which works I'll let you all know. Ta!</p>

<p>That's not what I'm after. I'm after something which will let me remotely take pics with the camera but without the USB lead.</p>

<p>I've recently been playing around with capturing images by tethering my D7000 to my Mac with a USB cable. Works well and I wish I'd tried it before.</p>

<p>What I'd like to do now is get rid of the cable and I imagine wireless USB is the way to go. I'm a little confused about this at the moment though: do wireless USB adaptors simply replace the cable by plugging an adaptor into the Mac and another into the camera? If so, they'd be totally transparent to both camera and Mac, yes? No?</p>

<p>Any pitfalls and can anyone suggest any devices which won't break my rather small bank? I'm in the UK.</p>

<p>Can't speak for Photoshop but Aperture runs just fine on my 13" MBP with the i5 processor.</p>

<p>As Luke has said there's no split prism in any of the current DSLRs which I've always thought to be a pity. There /is/ however a focusing aid, the 'green dot', in the viewfinder which once you've got the hang of it works pretty well. I successfully use manual focus quite a bit on my D7000 which is, I think, the cheapest Nikon model which will also meter with your AI lenses. Try borrowing or hiring one for the weekend to see how you get on.</p>

<p>Given that the 'supermoon' was not noticably larger than any other (honest!) just try again next month and lie about it. The fill flash and HDR suggestions are good. However, I'd at least partly solve the problem by not waiting until it had gone properly dark before taking the pic. A lot of the best night photos are actually taken at twilight.</p>

<p>Save yourself a heap of cash and get the 1.8D instead especially since you say you're not likely to lose it wide open. Lovely lens.</p>

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<p>I would also suggest poking around on eBay for a cheap, used ring flash. I found one a year ago for £25 ($40) and, with other lights, it helps enormously especially with filling in the shadows.</p>

<p>So far as lenses are concerned the D7000 may well show up limitations in some of your lenses but it's still going to be at least as good as the D90 in terms of real resolution.</p>

<p>The Huey Pro works well enough and is far, far better than trying to do it by eye.</p>

<p>If I've got a lot of existing files to rename I use GraphicConverter which, despite it's name, will rename files of any type. For new images I use the export facilities of Aperture.</p>

<p>I've been experimenting with macro for a year or so with a D80 and now with a D7000. I use entirely manual extension tubes bought off eBay for about £8 ($12). I use them with a 50mm f1.8D, an 85mm 1.8 and with a 35 year old Zeiss 135mm f3.5 + M42 to Nikon adaptor. All lenses have aperture rings. All work well. Exposure is a bit of intelligent guess work with the D80 but the D7000 will meter in manual. No AF but as others have said it's not needed for macro. I've been getting good results with this set up from both cameras. I also have a set of (manual) bellows which I use occasionally.</p>

<p>Does the D3100 have the green focus dot in the viewfinder that my D80 and D7000 have? If so, learn to use that.</p>

<p>I've had a D7000 since November and never had that problem. What does occasionally come open is the small power connector cover which I didn't even know was there until the first time it happened.</p>

<p>I second the Seagull one. Bought one on eBay for about £25 ($40) and haven't regretted it. It's nicely made, the optics are reasonable, it has a x2 switch for more precise manual focussing and comes with a zillion adaptors for different cameras. I've used mine with my D80 and my D7000. A friend borrowed it for his Canon (350D?) and then bought one for himself. Highly recommended.</p>

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