ilia_isakov

<p>as the title says, I currently photograph but plan to eventually get professional video dslr's. I am not a fan of canon eos line but may eventually invest in a red or sony camera. Most of my lenses now have aperture rings and are made for the ef mount. I am planning to buy a zeiss 35mm lens but I dont know if should invest in one with an aperture ring or not, the two are many hundreds of dollars difference. The thing is that I can buy the zeiss for the M or PL? mount with an aperture ring and sleep soundly that I did not just buy a 2 grand lens that I will have to resell one day because it has no A ring or electrical connectivity with a professional video camera like red. so does anyone know if the adapters they sell read data from canon lenses, enough to change settings like Aperture without having manual controls on the actual lens?<br> Thanks for your replies everyone</p>

<p>Thank you. Yes, i've tested these in Raw and saw plenty of difference in both improved noise and brighter and cleaner image with my full fram over the micro four thirds one.</p>

<p>sorry, about that. Here is the link. 1st photo is sony. 2nd photo is micro four thirds.<br> <img src="http://www.eli.camera/photo.html" alt="" /><br> http://www.eli.camera/photo.html.<br> can you send me an article where it says that a full frame eats 2 stops to achieve the same DOF as a four thirds camera?</p>

<p>Hi, I've owned a panasonic GH3 for the past year. as you may know that camera has a micro four thirds sensor. about a month ago i purchased a sony a7rII from Korea on ebay. new and packaged. But I soon realized that this camera does not handle itself better in low light. It handles noise much better. But people say that a full frame camera has about 2 stops more of light cause of the area of the sensor, which is about twice that of the four thirds one. I took two images to compare, at jpeg, both imported into lightroom and exported out and uploaded here. I admit the WB is a bit umatched, but its still not a sufficient reason for why this camera shows such slight improvement in low light performance under the same settings as a four thirds sensor. Both were shot with 50mm lenses (my 25mm on the gh4) and were set to multi metering mode<br> the settings on both are:<br> ISO 2000<br> f2.0<br> 1/30<br> this is my Sony full frame <br> <img src=" alt="" /><br> this is my Panasonic micro 4/3<br> <img src=" alt="" /></p> <p>DID I GET A FAULTY COPY OR IS THIS NORMAL (yes i do see about 1/3-1/2 stop difference)</p>

<p>Hi, this is the listing<br> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Canon-EOS-1D-C-EOS-1DC-Digital-Camera-Body-18-1-Megapixel-4K-1DC-/351508521080?hash=item51d78a6078</p> <p>I was wondering if those of you who own this camera or have casually made intelligent decisions when buying in the sort of grey market community of ebay for their camera or supplies, can help me make a smart choice here. Does this listing look legit and what are the things i should inquire of the seller.<br> I have asked the seller who has owned this camera and he replies:that it was owned by a company for about a year.<br> the price seems ballpark fair, a little on the low side for a used 1d-c with such a low shutter count<br> the seller has really good ratings and promises a 30 day warranty.</p> <p>overall, am i making a good decision in buying such a complicated beast of a camera with no manufacturing warranty on ebay, no less. what are your thoughts? thanks</p>

<p>thanks Gerry, I am not sure what it is. Maybe I am doing something wrong with the firmware upgrade, since the "lens upgrade" menu does not show in the first place when I turn my camera. I will try wiping it clean and check again.</p>

<p>Hi, so I have a panasonic gh3 and I just bought the olympus 35-100 f2.0 lens, its a great investment. only problem is that the camera fails to recognize it.<br> I bought the panasonic dmw ma1 adapter.<br> The body firmware is 1.2 (i think thats the latest)<br> I downloaded the firmware update for this particular lens http://www.olympus.co.jp/en/support/imsg/digicamera/download/software/pana/dl/35100_dl.cfm<br> I followed the step pretty carefully. download, extract in desktop, formate my memory card, made permissions for to read and write of the file to be allowed to everyone. and copied the extracted file into the camera.<br> and upon starting my camera, there is no firmware upgrade box that comes up. what am i doing wrong?</p> <p>HAS ANYONE DONE THIS BEFORE WHO CAN GIVE ME AN IDEA OF STEPS THAT I'M MISSING OR VARIOUS COMPATIBILITY ISSUES AND TIPS.</p>

Hi, thanks for the responses. I am a bit of a dodo when it comes to visualizing the final set up. I am trying to get ahold of a brochure of lighting equipemnt and how they each alter a studio set uo. I Know theres nothing concrete on this, given the limitless options of lighting set up, but at least a general overview of light equipment and set uPs. Strangely, i cant find much beyond the conventional explanation of the three light set ups. I need a good glossary on these equipment and add ons. Any recommendations

Hi. I May have overlooked some forums dealing with this. But I can also that that I have found many vague discussions on the subject. The questions being: I have a GH3 olympus fl-600R flash what does an owner of a four thirds camera settel for when he needs to fet his flash off his camera and start shooting more professional flash photography? I realize there is no real TTL system for micro four thirds yet...... Choice A)I have bought the cactus v6 system at B&H cactus lets you manually adjust all surrounding flashes exposure bracket from the transceiver on camera. the tech told me a firmware upgrade would be sufficient However, coming home, it did not work. looking through the website my flash is unsupported. Choice B) I saw a vide that Quantum has a copilot that supports TTL.......turned out to be bogus, as far as I know. Choice c) i tried a vello freewave wireless system at B&H. It works, and of course it is manual. So should i settle for that. Are there any options. photographers who own the same cameras and the same problems, id appreciate some advice. please include links if possible.

<p>here is a link to this entire event which i put on dropbox.<br /> Here is my problem, and please keep from criticizing my technique.<br /> I shot most of these without flash,<br /> At iso's ranging from 3200 - 6400<br /> My highest aperture is a 2.8, combine that with a lowest escapable shutter speed, and that was the ISO I had to use.</p> <p>when I came home I worked extensively on noise removal using such tools as lightrooom's Luminance tool and Clarity tool pushed to rather mild extremes sometimes to polish and take the color noise out………and if you flick through the album you will see how I combined it to make aesthetically pleasing photos of old age and noisy 1800's photos with a metal plate look on them.<br /> Upon export, some photos really "refused" to be sharpened, I checked and exported the same photo at +10 sharpness and +150 sharpness……….it simply hardly budged……hardly<br /> So I resorted to photoshop, and professional noise removal, surface blurring, and sharpening. But that too was very hard to produce a plausible photograph, thats up to normal sharpened and smooth standards.</p> <p>So it is I spent hours in editing sessions………...<br /> If You have the time, skim through the album, please keep the link and images discrete, and I'd like to hear feedback. thank you to all who have answered.<br> https://www.dropbox.com/lightbox/photos</p>

<p>High ISO meaning<br> 3200-6400 (on a four thirds sensor - which is probably worse)<br> and yes jpeg.<br> is that the problem, jpegs don't have enough "information depth" to be sharpened? Because I see that photoshop cs doesn't do the job and lightroom "selectively" sharpens…..and I don't know. I think its a contributing factor, but I also heard that many people reported such problems with lightroom5, and that there is a plug in available for that…….</p>

Hi Ed, thanks for the reply. Yeah those were pics were shot at very high iso, granted that was bad, but i was shooting without flash and had to. The images were noisy and lacked comsiderable sharpness. I tried to view the image on both macs viewer and windows photo viewer, and yes they look hardly touched by the sharpness adjustment i made. I rane a test and saw that at 150 sharpness it might very well look hardly adjusted to be so. I have a gh3 (panasonic). I shot them in jpeg format SRGB in camera color space Shutters at 1/30 And aperture at 2.8 Alot of the photos i shot afe at very high ISO's (and it being a four thirds sensor it is both a necessity even with the lens at f2.8 and an added Focus abberation. But be that as it may Lightroom fixes that on screen, while showing the photo in its photoRGB workspace, but upon export ( at any of the 3 choices for color export) the image is denoised, but left hardly sharpened. And NO i do not resize my photos upon export. Thank you all for replying....

<p>the sharpening settings are as follows.<br> sharpened +70<br> noise reduction<br> luminance +45.</p> <p>But I don't quite follow how my settings matter. what matters is lightroom shows a finished product one way and the same image upon export looks unsharpened.<br> and yes I am using lighroom 5, perhaps that is the issue. and I cannot really upgrade for several reasons. (its not a retail purchase)</p>

<p>Hi, so here is my problem. Lightoom continuously exports photos that are less sharp, (the colors seem to match) but the sharpness is just consistently lower, and raising it to exaggeration in editing and exporting --- still doesn't do the trick. how this happens I don't know. at first i thought it was the interface of layout, that with its rectangular layout, what i was seeing on lightroom always looked sharper than the exported image. But i finally caught up that this was more than an illusion. so here is a photo to demonstrate how an exported image looks more degraded than the "edit".<br> Why does this happen???? On the left you see lightroom finished edit. on the right is the image opened with macs photo viewer.= If you were to look closer you would see the eyes and mouth area are unsharpened in the right image (the exported). and the screenshot itself is of poor quality to show the telling difference. In case you are wondering. I am using lighroom 5 my image is previewed in lightroom using full quality in the settings. And upon export I do not choose the resize button.<br> <br> note: my concern is on the sharpness, not the color space. (does one affect the other, being that my monitor has never been calibrated.)<br> Also, please stick to "easy fixes", if there are any, maybe a secondary plug in or a software to automatically calibrate this.<br> </p>

<p>Hi, I have this fear of dropping cameras, and it finally caught up with me<br> my dog knocked my camera off a couch, and I saw it hit the ground. I checked the camera and it seems to be fine, however, I want to set my fears straight... so please tell me about how high a normal dslr (not cheaply made) - what height of fall can it "survive". Describe similar incidences if you had them.</p> <p>more specifically my question is: what happens when a camera falls down. Lets say there is no visible physical damage.......buyt I am assumingthat there are still moving parts inside the lens and the camera. How does this affect them down the line........will it malfunction someday?</p> <p>(I own a panasonic, gh3, and a 12-35 mm panasonic lens. Both are apparently sturdy, the camera is magnesium alloy).</p> <p> </p>

Ok first of all, thanks fir taking the time.... here are my two question: I own a panasonic gh3 camera and i do some light photography and video. Ive been having some doubts about how i use my camera and ive been known to be a bit careless with equipmwnt so i want to take some precautions. A) questions 1: does air pollution, or smoke from a boiling pot have any affect in my camera and lens. The gh3 is slight waterproof and dust proof camera. However i do some shooting of ny dad cooking, he usually cooks on open fire with a big pot on top of it. I dont have a zoom lens so i tend to get into to all that steam and dark smoke coming out of the wood burning. I dont overdo it but i get in enough to be worried. So my qiestion is, does dark smoke and steam get into this camera. 2) question 2: Ive recently had incidents where both my external flash (granted its a cheap one) and my on camera continuous light fell off the camera. If i use some muscle they come off by themselves, no safery there.luckily someone cought the led light, and the flash survived but it makes me ever conacious and afraid to take them out. So is there a safety lock or thether i can buy, or will a more expesive flash do it just as well. (My flash and led ligh bith work on a rotating wheel that i tighten, but like i said use some mucle or let it bump my chesr by accident and down it will fly.....what shoyld i do). Thanks again.

<p>Please before you flip away, read the questions below marked as A, B or C or simply PLEASE SHARE PROBLEMS AND CAMERA SPECIFICATIONS YOU USE WHEN SHOOTING VIDEO WITH TELEPHOTO LENSES. If you are interested in answering me on a more detailed level then read the entire thing. Here is what I'm asking about:</p> <p>I am thinking about buying the panasonic 4.0-5.6 45-200 telephoto lens. I do both video and photo. But my priority is video in this question.<br> Here is what I know<br> For Photo<br> If I was to shoot at the 200mm end I would probably adjust my shutter speed to about 1/400 of a sec range. And in situations where light is not as available, even a heavily overcast and dark day, this would mean a few things. If ISO is kept to reasonable limits - then camera aperture will have to be in the fast end, probably reaching the 4-5.6 limit. Give or take……… am i correct?</p> <p>Ok now assuming this is true for photo, how does this translate in video world. Here are my assumptions, BUT PLEASE GIVE ME YOUR INPUT BASED ON EXPERIENCE WITH WORKING WITH LONG REACHING LENSES WITH VIDEO ON DSLR'S.<br> I will probably need to use a tripod………I know…….but I am not a tripod person, I like my freedom.<br> So assuming I will not use my tripod, here is my first questions A) will increasing the shutter speed decrease overall footage shake (I know it photography it simply captures the image too fast for the increased sensitivity to shake that Telephoto lenses have, to have any affect, what does this mean when shooting "moving pictures"/video. will it have any affect other than aesthetic ones.<br> B) Which brings me to a tangent question- what exactly does increasing shutter <br> speed do on resulting video footage, I know it makes it more crisp and less motion blur. <br> But what about the picture shaking corner to corner. how does this affect the entire <br> footage logo.<br> C) if increasing shutter speeds in telephoto videography is senseless, then does this obligate me to the tripod, or is there a way around that. </p>

<p>Hi, so I'm doing editing to my photos, sometimes it takes hours to do one photo. But i am editing them for a certain viewable size on photography websites. I know that once I will print these photos, things may be off. My question is this, what do I have to keep in mind when I make destructive changes to a photo, assuming I will print it someday at 8.5 by 11. I know there will be general tweaks before printing, but certain things cannot be brought back after editing. To start, can someone center my perspective on resoloution and color.</p> <p>Question: What are some techniques people employ when preparing a photo for future printing. <br> In what resolution, Image size, color space, and overall perspective do people edit photos. Please share how the working process for online viewing is different from the working process to printing quality prints of that image differ. And......can the two be combined to save time.</p>

<h2> </h2> <p>Hi, I am a photographer, what you would probably coin as an enthusiast photographer. I need a tutor to teach me how to use photoshop cs on a more intermediate to advanced level. I am also looking for shooting techniques mentorship. I am eager to learn and am looking to meet someone to find a common language with. I will pay as agreed to make sure it is worth your efforts and time. I live in Brooklyn. Any advice, referral would be helpful.<br> my flickr photostream, if it puts things a little more into context.<br />https://www.flickr.com/photos/124806686@N08/<br> Thanks to all</p>

Thanksto those who replied. I am sorry for confusing people and go the lack of information from the start. I guess what I am trying to say is this. I am a photography and videography enthusiast who wants to switch to the gh4, mainly because of its 4k capability and it's relative affordability. Since I am shooting on my own without help or a second camera and Wil often be shooting tight and awkward body dynamics and also because of the reluctance to control two lens rings when shooting, i need autofocus. I actually don't understand how manual focus can be helpful in any environment where both continuous shooting is needed and the focusing effect serves no aesthetic purpose for the telling of the story. Constantly refocusing between people looks unprofessional when replaying. I understand people focus manually because they are filming with a high aperture which allows for focus compensation if either you or subject moves a few feet. I like my shallow depth of feild and it does not give room for surprise movements. PLEASE KEEP your answers brief and not too technical. I am a bit ignorant in this subject and realize what I just said may provoke a host of discussions. What i am concerned is whether to keep this lens or not, assuming I can sell it for about 250 dollars and save the hundred and fifty dollars on a good lens adapter. Basically I am saving 400 dollars out of the total 500 it's worth on amazon. And i can use that money on a micro four thirds lens. What i am tryin to ask is, won't it not be a financial mistake to just get a new lens for the gh4. Thanks for the replies. Please keep it simple, i get tangled up quite easily.

I guess its not so much the aperture change during the shoot that will be problematic. For the most part i can ser it before and it will be held constant. Its the focus. I dont want to manually focus on a moving subject because i will be shooting non static things and i need to move around and have at leasr one hand free. Focusing manually will engage both hands and contribute to camera shake. Do you think im right in selling this lens for that reason and invesring with limited funds in a four thirds lens that will communicate automatically....

Hi, so i am switching from my nikon d90 to the GH4, a micr four thirds camera. I want to save money and i have this favorite lens, a tamron AF 28-70 f2.8 lens, that i want to keep and transfer. I was told i need an adapter and that everything will be manual on the gh4 with this lens, including the aperture, shutter and focus. This is impractical for me as i want to shoit vidwos and i wont have both hands available to constantly readjust. Is there an adapter that might possibly enable the camera to communicate with the lens automatically or any other method. ANY HELP WOULD BE APPRECIATED.