howard_dvorin

I use ILFORD Multigrade filters in the 5.5 x5.5 drawer above the negative. They are sold 6 x 6 and I trimmed them with a pair of scissors. They work quite well and cost about $25.00 US

Howard

Hello Audrey,

Thanks for the information. It is very much appreciated by many of us who normally stay silent.Please overlook any cynicism that occasionally is posted Howard

FWIW, I think that Salgado uses tri-x in 35mm and the makes 4 x 5

internegatives,which is then used to make the print.

I am sure nobody will believe this but I punch a hole in the

unexposed end of the film and weight it down with a wire coat hanger.

I simply hook the coat hange through the hole. I do the same on both

ends. So far it has worked well.

George, you brought up a good point. I mean a slightly shorter

distance. That would require a slightly longer bellows. Try looking

at a lens for a 35mm camera. It might have the red infrared focusing

mark. If it does you will get a good graphic on what to do.BTW, I

work in infrared in 35mm. I use a 24mm lens at f8 and use the

hyperfocal distance for my focus setting. That might give you a

direction to go in for your large format work.

I don't have a formula for you, but infrared focuses a slight bit

shorter than does normal daylight.

A good source of information is at

http://www.cocam.co.uk/CoCamWS/Infrared/INFRARED.HTM

Like Ted, I.too, had a similar problem several years back. Kodak

thought it might be static electricity. That was never proven.

I,too, changed films.

HI Justin,

I had a 1000 DTL with a 1.8 50mm lens. It was a hsuiky camera and

did everything that I asked of it. I particularly like the spot

meter for B & w work.But I shot a broad selection of subjects with

it. It had the universal lens mount so the were a large number of

lenses available.

Ths forum has given me a great deal of helpful information and

enjoyment. I second Pete's suggestions of a fee based forum rather

than go away. By the way, I am not to skilled with a computer but I

do offer my help to Ed if needed.

When developing my B & W film , I first cool my developer to 68F.

Then I pour it into my tank and develope it.As I develope the film it warms up to the ambient temperature,frequently as high as 75 F. I can think fo three techniques to handle this.

1. Leave things the way that they are. I am getting good results.

2. Devise some type of tempering box to even out the temperature.

3. Work at ambient temperature and adjust the time per some chart.

Has anyone else dealt with this type of situaton and how do you recommend handling it?

<p>

Please ignore the incomplete post above for the same question.

When developing my B & W film , I first cool my developer to 68F.

Then when I pour it into my tank and develope it.As I develope the film it warms up to the ambient temperature,frequently as high as 75 F. I can think fo three techniques to handle this.

Ed,

You are doing a fine job on this forum. I find it enjoyable and

educational. There is no need for sarcasm or profanity here. The

web is a place where people come form all different places and

backgounds and meet and mix. theyshould feel welcome and safe.

Howard Dvorin

Mt. Laurel ,NJ

USA

Richard,

There are several good books concerning B & W Infrared Photography.

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The Art of Infrared Photography by Joseph Paduano

Infrared Landscape Photography by Todd Damiano

and two by Laurie White All are published by Amherst publishing Co.

In addition there is a good web

site.www.Cocam.co.uk.CocamWS/infrared//Infrared.htm

I also found a wealth of information by going to Google and typing in

Black and White Infrared Photography

Howard Dvorin

Mt. Laurel, NJ

USA

Is it possible that you have vignetting from the lens hood? That is

what it sounds like to me.

Howard

Andrew,

I use stock D-76 at 68 F. for 9 minutes. Agitation 5 seconds every 30

seconds. I also bracket 400 plus and minus one f stop.

I have been reading recent posts with regard to masking(unsharp).

Is this technique feasible for 35 mm.

Howard Dvorin

Gary,

Look up this address:

www.cocam.co.uk

Then click on infrared.There is information for you about infrared

photography and a link to the infrared newsletter

Andrew,

<p>

I,too, had trouble using a red filter on an EOS 630. I switched to

using a hand held meter and filter factors. Thje results were better.

Howard.