chris_ould

<p>Hi Everyone,<br> <br> Just wanted to ask a question in relation to the Intent options in PS Print Dialog Box.<br> <br> If you have saved a file to print at a later date, which has been converted to a specific paper's colour profile space (using a specific printer and ink set), you've obviously chosen a specific intent to make that conversion. <br> <br> So, when you do decide to print, will the choice of Perceptual or Relative Intent that's in PS Print Dialog box still be relevant? Or since the conversion has already taken place, does it not effect the final outcome?</p>

<p>Tim,</p> <p>I did not post the question or any of the responses to get in an argument with you.</p> <p>The question is very easy to understand; before you look at a RAW image from a camera with an AA filter (say a Canon 5DS) you have to accept that technically speaking 'it will need' capture sharpening because of the softening affect of that filter (whatever method you choose to apply is up to you, but technically it does need some).</p> <p>So, i was just wondering out loud whether having a camera without an AA Filter or one that can cancel out its effect (say a 5DS R) still requires capture sharpening, since the principal reason for applying capture sharpening has been removed.</p>

<p>Tim, Gup, Edward</p> <p>Thanks for the responses, but I think things might have got a bit confused, so let me try and re-phrase the question;.</p> <p>What i was really trying to clarify was does a RAW captured with a camera without an AA Filter technically 'need' to have Capture Sharpening applied. I've no problem actually doing it...to be honest, i have 3 'pre-set's' saved from in ACR & LR based on Jeff Schewe's recommendations and Photokit Sharpener's settings that could be tweeked based on the image (i could then utilize the USM in PS / Adjustment Brush in LR to do Creative Sharpening if needed, and Output Sharpening further down the line). I just wondered if it was really a 'necessity' in the way a RAW captured with a camera with an AA filter fitted is. </p> <p>Tim, the settings you are referring to are really 'output sharpening' settings based on choice of media (and that's a another big discussion), so would not be used for capture sharpening to get over the softening affect of the AA Filter. </p>

<p>Thanks for those responses and the examples.<br> <br> Gup, just to clarify when you refer to your 2nd example as 'and with 50% sharpening applied in ACR', what exactly do you mean by 50%? <br> <br> For example, do you mean 50% of what you would normally apply to a RAW that came from camera with an AA filter (say a 5D)...so with a group of settings like;<br> <strong>Landscape</strong> Amount 45 Radius 0.8 Detail 35-50 Mask 10-20 <br> <br> you would effectively bring down the Amount to about 20-25? <br> <br> Or are you referring to something else here?</p>

<p>Hi Guys,<br> <br> The arrival of several students with Fuji cameras to a digital workflow session i was teaching prompted me ask this question.<br> <br> Do RAW images that have been captured using a camera(s) that does not have an anti-aliasing filter (mirror-less Fuji's) or has had it's effect canceled (Canon 5DS-R) still require capture sharpening in ACR/LR, or can this step, effectively, be removed from the standard workflow?<br> <br> I am aware that capture sharpening compensates for the loss of sharpness during the capture process of the digital photo caused by the (i) anti-aliasing filter of the camera's sensor and (ii) the Bayer grid interpolation of the RAW conversion, so was thinking a reduced amount may still be required?<br> <br> Your thoughts please<br> Chris</p>

<p>Thanks Ken,</p> <p>I was thinking along similar lines...GANE & iSRD are easy to use, but the removal of dust & scratches, and the suppression of any noise brought about by the scanning process is probably better dealt with in PS (you may want to try the PhotoKit Sharpener for this, it automates a fairly boring process and tweeks the sharpening to suit).</p>

<p>Hi Guys,</p> <p>Having previously applied all the major & minor editing adjustments to film scans made with a Nikon 9000 ED 'post-scan' in PS (and more recently LR), i was taking a closer look at SIlverfast 8 AI's editing tools and wanted to ask anyone with experience of using the advanced editing tools a couple of questions;</p> <p>1, If having looked at the results in a finished scan, they would recommend doing the noise reduction (GANE) and dust and scratch removal (iSRD) at the prescan stage or wait until they have the scanned TIFF/PSD open in PS or LR?</p> <p>2/ If having looked at the results in a finished scan, they would recommend using Multi-Exposure (to reveal more shadow details & reduce noise)<strong> </strong>and the Auto Adaptive Contrast Optimization (to fine tune the highlight & shadow areas), or wait until they have the scanned TIFF/PSD open in PS or LR? </p> <p>Basically, i have lots of experience of working on film scans with PS (less so LR) at work using scanners and software packages that i've not had to buy...hence the reason for not diving into Silverfast editing capabilities before. Having tried the tools i find them fairly easy to use and both Mark Segal & Taz Tally's tutorials helped fine-tune my skills. But what i am really curious about is what is happening under the bonnet when you use the editing tools in Silverfast's prescan window and how that impacts on the scanned image.</p> <p>For example, having looked at a couple of scans after using ME, i could see a reduction in noise and better shadow detail, but they also appear to have a 'softened' look about them...which may be harder to deal with than a bit of noise reduction & associated capture sharpening in an 'un-ME' version.</p> <p>Your thoughts please?<br> Chris</p>

<p>Thanks for clarifying that Andrew.<br> I recall asking a similar question 3-4 years ago (regarding capture sharpening a scanned image rendered as a TIFF in ACR) and met with several responses that generally put me off...but since you can now, potentially, stay within LR until your ready to hit the 'Print' button, i suppose the only time it may be better to use PS for capture sharpening is when your destination is a C-Type or half-tone print. </p>

<p>Hi Guys, <br> <br> Have a question that i wanted to ask regarding capture sharping;<br> <br> For many years i was happy to use a PS workflow to work on scanned film, and always relied on the Photokit Sharpener for the capture sharpening of TIFF files that came from 35mm / 120 film and a Nikon 9000 with NIkonscan (or occasionally, 5 x 4 from an Imacon). <br> <br> Having only recently started to use Lightroom 5 to work on DNG's , i was curious to know what people thought about applying the capture sharpening & associated noise reduction to TIFF files that originate from film scans in LR?</p> <p> <br> The advantages of applying capture sharpening to a DNG's parameters in LR (or ACR) are obvious, but does that still apply to a 16 Bit TIFF? Or is there a trade-off here?<br> <br> Best Wishes<br> Chris Ould</p>

<p>Hi Guy’s,<br> I have a question regarding the sharpening settings for printing ink-jets prints on Glossy or Semi-Glossy paper, which appear in Jeff Schewe’s excellent <strong><em>The Digital Print</em></strong>. In the Section ‘Output sharpening in Photoshop’ Jeff describes a routine for sharpening an image (at 360ppi for ink-jet printing) on a new layer using these steps:</p> <p>1/USM: Amount 100, Radius 3.6, Threshold 10<br> 2/ Edit> Fade USM at 100%, with Blend Mode sent to Luminosity<br> 3/ Layer set to Overlay, High Pass filter 3.6<br> 4/ Blend If sliders: This Layer 10/60 & 200/250</p> <p>While I completely understand Jeff’s explanation and the use of Bruce Fraser’s formula, in coming up with these figures, it did seem a bit different to the routine that I had been using for sharpening (at 300ppi for ink-jet printing) that originally came from another one of Jeff & Bruce’s books<em>; <strong>Real World Image Sharpening. </strong></em>Essentially,the steps are the same but with different figures:</p> <p>1/ USM: Amount 320, Radius 0.6, Threshold 4<br> 2/ Edit> Fade USM at 70%, with Blend Mode sent to Luminosity<br> 3/ Layer set to Overlay with Opacity of 50%, High Pass filter 0.6<br> 4/ Blend If sliders: This Layer 10/60 & 200/250</p> <p> Since output sharpening is ‘specific’ to the output process itself (and less about the individual image’s characteristics), I wondered if someone could explain the use of a different formula to achieve, essentially, the same results?</p>

<p>Swift response Andrew!<br> ...but not before any retouching work correct? </p>

<p>Having scanned a 35mm slide or negative and then opened it in PS, i just wanted to establish if it was necessary to apply 'Capture Noise Reduction & Sharpening' before applying 'Global Tonal & Color' adjustments or after. I fully understand why retouching needs to take place before noise reduction & sharpening, but have heard conflicting ideas regarding when to apply the global tonal and color adjustments?</p> <p>Any information would be gratefully received!</p>

<p>Eric,<br> To be honest, i was only interested in finding out if a duplicate file with a couple of adjustments layers to correct for color shifts and loss of contrast (symptoms of soft-proofing) 'really' needed flattening before resizing/resampling...and from what i can see at 100%, the difference is very marginal but after taking a look at John's experiments i think it fair to say that it does!<br> <br> Perhaps, as Andrew suggests, their could be an option 'to flatten' in the Image Size dialog box?</p>

<p>Thank's for such concise responses to my original question.<br> I had always considered it 'standard' practice to flatten before resizing/resampling during a print workflow, but had forgotten where i got that information from (possibly Jeff Schewe). <br> Anyway, now i know why! <br> Best Wishes<br> Chris</p>

<p>Regarding the workflow, i would not need to edit the image any further. The next step after Resizing/Resampling would be to apply output sharpening before sending it to my printer (or occasionally converting it to a profile provided by a print lab before sending it to them).<br> I was just curious if flattening it before Resizing/Resampling was strictly necessary to avoid any artifacts etc.?<br> Thanks for your responses.</p>