ana_negri

Hello there,

I have an old Pentax 67 in my hands, with a SMC Pentax 67 165mm f/2.8 lens on it.

The lens has a AUTO / MANUAL switcher. Since it's a fully manual camera I guess I need to keep it in "manual", nevertheless I read somewhere that it needs to be in Automatic for the meter to work?

I'm confused.

Extra info:

- The meter needle moves in both settings

- The viewfinder becomes darker/lighter while changing the aperture only in the manual mode.

Hello everybody and many thanks.

Indeed, I meant converting a photo made with a digital camera into film to be printed.

Very illuminating answers from [uSER=4774668]@alan_marcus|2[/uSER] and @ben_hutcherson, many thanks for that.

Does somebody do this? I would appreciate sharing your experiences and techniques.

Thanks!

Hello, dear all.

I live in Peru, where art shops have a short range of materials available. So, believe it or not, it's not easy to find foamcore boards that are big enough to mount a 150 x 100 cm photo. (actually found one but it's absurdely expensive)

What alternatives to foamcore could you suggest that keeps the picture firm and smooth?

Hope I'm being clear enough. Many thanks in advance!

pd: didn't know which forum to place this question in, so admins feel free to move it.

<p>Thank you very much for your comments, it really helps me to get through my thoughts about it. I think it's just very relative, for my kind of photos it doesn't seem ok when I put any letters on the front; it really ruins the image. Nevertheless, it's good to learn that people really expect a signature to be somewhere in the picture (recto or verso).<br>

About the limited editions, I am still deliberating if and how to do it. I'm thinking about the option of just adding in the back: "Limited edition of 50" or something like that. Because it does sound to me weird to say 1/50 if i haven't yet printed the other 49. However, I do understand the commercial value added by that.<br>

My answer here doesn't intend to give a closure to the thread, so please feel free to comment further.<br>

Many thanks again.</p>

<p>Hello,<br>

I have been told by many people I <em>should</em> sign and numerate the limited edition for my individual prints, but i find it VERY bad taste. Does someone share this feeling?<br>

What could I do as an alternative? Maybe signing on the back of the frame?<br>

I'd appreciate your comments, thank you.<br>

Ana Lucia<br>

pd: afterwards comes the question about the need or no need to limit editions :D</p>

<p>Dear all,<br>

many thanks for your replies. I won't go for that lens, and I'll just wait a bit for another opportunity.<br>

Indeed I have a D700 and not a D300! :/ I'm always mistaking the name because my partner has a D3... Anyway, don't underestimate peruvian technicians, i'm sure they can adapt EVERYTHING. :D<br>

Thanks! Cheers :)</p>

<p>Hello everybody,<br>

I live in south america, where prices go high on taxes when buying photo equipment.... I need a macro lens and also a portrait lens so I became interested in the Tamron 90mm 2.8f.<br>

I have found a VERY good deal on a Tamron SP 90mm f/2.8 Di Macro Autofocus Lens, but it's for CANON. And I own a Nikon <strike>D300</strike>D700. I can find a cheap lens adapter here, but I'd like to hear your opinion in the quality of the lens, being used with an adaptor.<br>

Also, I'd like to know if the Canon Tamron will cover a full frame (FX) body like my D<strike>D300</strike>D700's and if i will be able to use the auto focus function.<br>

Many many thanks on advance,<br>

Ana Lucia</p>

<p>Dear all,<br>

thank you very much for all the responses. I will take some time going through your recommendations.<br>

Sorry not to have mentioned at the beginning that it is a dissertation on Photography, but as it is a topic 'thinking' about photography I found a better place under Philosophy, than any other. Everything is helpful. Thanks again.<br>

Ana</p>

<p>Hello!<br>

I am working on my dissertation and need some authors that point that discussion: if photographs can be true or are an illusion.<br>

I would very much appreciate your help in naming serious authors, books, articles....</p>

<p>Thanks in advance!</p>

Hello,

I am applying for a Master Degree in Photography and have to build a portfolio of around 20 images that represent my work and evolution

(Btw, I am interested in conceptual photography).

I have a big doubt: should I choose between:

- 20 isolated photos that represent my skills,

- 2 or more groups of several photos that represent a conceptualized project, or

- 1 single project that contains 20 photos talking about one same concept?

I would really appreciate your opinion.

Best regards.

<p>Hi Greg!<br>

I tried changing my radio trigger and now it works PER FECT LY! I got a Flash Wave III (Rx and Tx).</p>

<p>I think the problem were two things: 1) mi radio trigger was working wrong (it was a cheap one used for 3 years); and 2) for connecting the sync cable I used a shoe adaptor, which I learned was working bad as well.<br>

I suggest you try your flashes with other reliable radio trigger. (I know you can't trust that it works ONCE at the store, but to me the risk was worthy since it now works always perfectly.)<br>

I REALLY hope you solve your problem soon, it can get you nuts!</p>

<p>Thanks to everyone. I am still investigating. I think i'm having not one, but several problems. So I am going to investigate each by each.<br>

I hope shortly understand it and post here the answer.<br>

By the way, Rodeo Joe, thank you for letting me know about the flash port in the camera! I'm so stupid!</p>

Hi Harry,

I am almost sure they are not set up as slaves. If I turn off the "cell" button, I am deactivting it, right?

Thank you,

Ana Lucía

<p>Hello everyone,<br>

I am going crazy with the triggering of my two Bowens gemini 500, with my d700.<br>

For triggering the strobes I use whether a very simple <em>Tristar 4 channel radio trigger </em>OR the original <em>Bowens sync cable, attached to my d700 with a hotshoe adaptor</em>.<br>

Sometimes I'm working with the radio trigger and the strobes start going crazy and fire continuously without any command, and when I shoot the camera the strobes won't fire.<br />So that is the moment in which I switch to the sync cable (because I think it dues to some problem in transmission). But today when I tried using the sync cord, the strobe CONTINUED doing the same crazy thing... I tried turning everyhing off and on, and I wasn't able to use them finally. There was no way to get the camera and strobes together.<br>

I wonder if I am missing something or doing something completely wrong, because the same thing happened to me when I had the same strobes with my Nikon D80.<br />Maybe I need a better radio trigger, but shouldn't the strobes fire with the cord? <br>

Has this happened to anyone?<br>

Thank you very much in advance (and I'm sorry if my english is not so clear)</p>

<p>Ana Lucía</p>

<p>Hi!<br>

I've been using the capture nx 2 for a while, and have noticed that when i open my nef pictures with the program i get too much contrast, as soon as I open it (without having modified any settings). some times i even lose some details, which I knew I had captured when taking the picture.<br>

Has anyone gone through this?<br>

Thank you. <br>

Regards,<br>

Ana</p>

<p>ok!<br>

exactly... that might be the problem. the terminology. I will just ask them...<br>

thank you both very much. :)</p>

<p>Hi, <br>

I am about to send printing a 37 x 93 inch digital picture in self-adhesive paper. The people in the store have told me that the resolution I can get printed is 1400 dpi.<br>

What I want to know is how should I save the photo I'm working in my computer. I'm working with a RAW picture, and what usually do is save them with 300 dpi. But I don't know what number to use at this case. Are the 300 and 1400 talking about the same "language"? Should I save it at 1400 dpi in my computer if I want it full quality?<br>

dpis are SO confusing to me... i'd appreciate your opinions.<br>

Thank you in advance,<br>

Ana Lucía</p>

<p>Thank you, Matt.<br>

I forgot to put the NX version i use: it's the Capture NX 2.<br>

So that could be why I couldn't get to do what I wanted, with your solution... :(<br>

But I have just discovered how to solve it! There's a line below the chromatic box that goes from 0 to 100, with a moveable triangle below it. That's exactly the tool for controling the width of the curve.<br>

Thank you again for your quick response... </p>

<p>Hi, <br>

I am editing a picture and need to reduce the orange saturation.<br>

In order to do that I think I should use the LCH workspace, inside Adjustments > Color > LCH > Chromatism.<br>

My problem comes when I try to move the levels, because all i get to move is a very narrow angulated range (as in the example i'm attaching), instead of a curved range (like the blue one i've drawn on the example).<br>

Do you know how can I do that curve I want?<br>

I hope I'm making myself clear (english is not my native language). Thank you in advance.</p><div></div>

<p>Hello everyone and thank you!<br>

I understand perfectly. I will try the capture nx free version or try to set up the camera calibration sometime....<br>

Thank you and good bye..</p>

<p>Hello everyone,<br>

I use a Nikon D80. I usually program it to take the pictures in both: RAW format (NEF) + JPG.<br>

When I after go to my computer (mac) and open the nef picture with the Adobe Raw in Photoshop it looks veeery desaturated, and with a funny white balance, which was not in which i took the picture.... AND if I open the JPG version took by the camera, and open it with photoshop as well, the colors are perfect!<br>

Just for the record I tell you that in my Adobe Raw window, in the basic space, I´ve checked that the white balance is set to "as shot"...<br>

I'd like to know if someone else has gone through this... <br>

Very thankful and hoping you understand my akward english (it's not my language).</p>