andrew_jacobson3

<p>Um... Reciprocity failure?</p>

<p>I'm not sure of the exact model, but it is a Nikon F I believe. How long will the shutter stay open when I combine the B setting with the timer?</p>

<p>Hey guys,<br>

So, my attempts at digital star trails failed.. I have an old film camera that I'm going to try it with, but I have to wait until the first weekend in November. I live in Minnesota, so the weather could be.. well.. anything, but I am betting on the fact that it is going to be cold. Will prolonged exposure to the cold cause problems with the film?<br>

Also, are there any MacGyver-like ideas out there to improvise a sort of cable release system?</p>

<p>Hey guys,<br>

So I have an old film SLR camera from the 70's. I love just about everything about this camera except for the high cost of developing film. Yes I can get it on photo CD, but I was wondering of there was some sort of CCD adapter that could turn her into a digital. Any thoughts?</p>

<p>Yeah, basically. It shouldn't make any difference if I take the foreground shot before the trails will it?</p>

<p>Now.. Jen, I read the link that was on the other post about how to stack pictures and I had another random question. In it, they say that you should take the star pictures, then take a foreground shot. Now, the article was a bit confusing, and I guess I should probably chalk this up to common sense, but the foreground that they are talking about... I assume that it should already be the focus of the star pictures as well?</p>

<p>Hey guys,<br>

I am the Visuals Editor for my college paper. We have a couple of DSLR cameras that we can check out to our photographers, but unfortunatly they are both out of commission. We have a Nikon D1H and a D200. The D1H is a relatively simple fix. The camera works just fine, but the battery dies after we take 5 pictures with it. The D200 on the other hand is a slightly bigger challenge. The card reader doesn't work. We got it looked at and they said it would be about $185-$235 to fix.</p>

<p>Now, I know that these are older cameras. So my question is, is it worth paying the money to get them fixed, or should we consider selling them to upgrade to newer systems?</p>

<p>Now, I know that my camera has a high ISO noise remover.. Is that the same thing? When the noise remover takes that 30 second gap, it doesn't need to be in the same place does it? ANd, does it even really work?</p>

<p>I guess what I mean to ask is, if I were to leave the shutter open for.. Say 15 minutes.. Will that noise remover still work if I were to move the camera?</p>

<p>Hey guys,</p>

<p> I am still relatively new to the world of photography. I've been experimenting alot with different things and I've ran into multiple questions. I've read alot of the other questions that have been posted, but it is quite likely that I missed something along the way, so I apologize if I ask something that has already been posted.</p>

<p> My 1st question involves star trails. As I said, I've read some of the other posts on this subject, but alot of them are talking about 30 minute exposers. I fire a Canon Rebel XSi with a 70-300mm and a 50mm lens, and, as I am on a college student budget, I do not foresee that changing any time soon. I've tried taking time exposers before, but my shutter only opens to 30'', which, I assumed anyway, means for 30 seconds. The problem that I run into is that there really isn't much of a trail.</p>

<p> I know that I can use a stitching program to edit a group of shots together, but is that even going to work with that short of an exposer?</p>

<p> Also, when I'm doing a shot like that, what do I focus on?</p>

<p> If all of that works out, is there a way that I can focus on something (Dimly lit tent, Town at night, etc.) without frying the entire shot?</p>

<p> On a completely unrelated note, I've always thought that Lightning shots were awesome and there is a gravel pit near where I live that would be absolutly perfect for that kind of shot (Well.. And perfect for getting fried...). I've tried getting shots like this in the past, but either my shot was too dim because the shutter was too fast, or the whole thing was just blurry... Any tips on how to get these particular kinds of shots (Preferably without imitating the clock tower in back to the future)?</p>

<p>Thanks</p>