steve_walker6

<p>Donald,<br>

Many thanks and the Reed's site is perfect.<br>

Steve</p>

<p>I will be spending a few days on Michigan's west coast in early July. We are staying near Pentwater. I am looking forward to some sunsets but am also interested in any ideas for nice places to take group photographs or explore.<br>

Steve</p>

<p>Buckingham fountain comes to mind, or some of the statues in Grant Park.</p>

<p>There is always the lake if you can get out to a breakwater or on a boat.</p>

<p><img src="http://stover98074.smugmug.com/Other/Sharing/00328s9aej5mqzm0249/906244201_vnhSQ-S.jpg" alt="" /></p>

<p>I took this photo in Jan 2010 in Millennium park. It was at Washington street. There is a walk way leading into the park with several elevated view points.</p>

<p>I was at street level with a 50mm manual focus zeiss lens, hand held. I was visiting and did not have a tripod, otherwise, I would go for something to stabilize the lens.</p>

<p>Any downtown East/West street at sunset can provide the sun set and part of the city. I am trying to think of a sign, such as the Chicago Theater, that is on an East / West street (can not think of any off the top of my head) - but some building feature, sign or even a Chicago Flag would be interesting with the sunset and city.</p>

<p>I also imagine you would get wonderful shots from near the Michigan Ave. bridge shooting west at sun set along the East / West branch of the Chicago river.</p>

<p>I have setup a tripod on the top floor of parking garages in the loop - you get an off the street view and an open one. </p>

<p>If you have access to roof tops or decks on condo buildings or office buildings...</p>

<p><img src="http://stover98074.smugmug.com/Other/Sharing/IMG6243/876061498_v5Yfr-M.jpg" alt="" width="300" height="450" /></p>

<p>Thanks Paul and Joseph for the comments on the article.<br /> <br /> Joseph,<br /> <br /> I have also had success with some inexpensive M39 to M42 rings found on eBay. This allows me to mount on M42.<br>

<br /> Regarding modern enlarging lenses, that is a good tip to reverse mount for the aperture light leak. I have been putting a piece of dark tape over the aperture markings - which works for light leaks but obviously covers up the aperture marking.</p>

<p>CC Chang,<br>

<br /> Cost savings allows a photographer to have a range of focal lengths. If you consider enlarging lenses mounted on a bellows or tubes. Manual focus prime lenses are relatively inexpensive, even manual focus 1:1 macro lenses can be attractive.<br>

<br /> I own a 50mm Schneider Componon S, 80 El Nikkor, 105 El Nikkor and 135 Fujinon EP. The sum total for all four lenses was about $150.</p>

<p>I have an article on using manual focus lenses (prime 1:1 and enlarging lenses) located <a href="http://sites.google.com/site/inexpensivemacrophotography/">here</a>.</p>

<p>This is an example taken this morning with the 135 Fujinon and an old bellows on an old tripod.</p>

<p><img src="http://stover98074.smugmug.com/Flowers/Macro-Flowers/IMG1017/898286413_hgEJT-M-1.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="400" /></p>

<p> </p>

<p >Paul,</p>

<p >Regarding Tilt Shift in one of your different threads– Perhaps something from this outfit</p>

<p ><a href="http://www.zoerk.com/pages/p_pshift.htm" target="_blank">http://www.zoerk.com/pages/p_pshift.htm</a></p>

<p >I have no experience with it.</p>

<p >I have been looking into Medium Format View Cameras that have the movements built in. Camera backs are available to mount the camera to the bellows. </p>

<p >I have read that reverse mounting is the way to go with lenses. I have some adapters on order and will be giving that a try next week. I will be trying it on an El Nikkor 80 mm enlarging lens (filter size for the El Nikkor 80 is 40.5) on the Pentax Auto Bellows. </p>

<p >What is the filter size for the Componon S 50mm? I also own that lens.</p>

<p >I have wondered about reverse mounting the Componon S 50 on the El Nikkor 80 or the Componon S 50 on an El Nikkor 105 enlarging lens and then working on the bellows with the setup. Perhaps some day…</p>

<p>I have started an article about using bellows with enlarging lenses. I use an Asahi Pentax Auto Bellows and several enlarging lenses from Fuji (Fujinon EP 50 & 135), Nikon (El Nikkor 80 & 105) and Schneider (Componon -S 50).</p>

<p>The article explores inexpensive manual lenses mounted on modern DSLR cameras. The article shares what I have learned about the equipment and how to use it in a frugal manner. This is a link to the article - <a href="http://sites.google.com/site/inexpensivemacrophotography/">Inexpensive Macro Photography</a></p>

<p>You never know what you will find when you look into the viewfinder.</p>

<p><img src="http://stover98074.smugmug.com/Flowers/Macro-Flowers/IMG0560/885200152_wd4VE-M.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="400" /></p>

<p>It is solitary during the exposure and collaborative before and after. I doubt any of us picked up a camera without some level of training and support. This still holds true today as I learn from others and places like this. However, when I am making pictures the process tends to be solitary. After the exposure I get feedback on the images that move me the most. I suppose feedback can be from what is selling or hits on an electronic image. A lot of times it is candid responses from those close to me.<br>

I think most people make photographs to share and I think most people enjoy learning and sharing. </p>

<p>Cost, speed, quality, convenience can all factor into any lens. If you are willing to try manual focus lenses you may not need to limit your self to just one.<br>

<br /> These lenses are relatively small and can be placed in a coat pocket. I purchased two used MF Zeiss (50 1.4 and 135 2.8) lenses for about the price of a new Canon EF 85 1.8 USM. I use all three lenses and enjoy working with each of them.<br /> <br /> This is an example of the Zeiss 50 1.4 hand held at dusk in Chicago.<br /> <br /> <img src="http://stover98074.smugmug.com/Other/Sharing/IMG6243/876061498_v5Yfr-M.jpg" alt="" /></p>

<p>Tons of Chicago Photos at the Chicago Tribune web site. Plenty to get an idea of the diversity and areas.<br>

<a href="http://www.chicagotribune.com/travel/chi-cityscapes-ugcpg,0,7857616.ugcphotogallery">http://www.chicagotribune.com/travel/chi-cityscapes-ugcpg,0,7857616.ugcphotogallery</a></p>

<p> </p>

<p>Keith,</p>

<p>Your Chicago photographs are outstanding. Thanks for sharing. Can not beat early or late light.<br /> This was taken at North Ave. Beach at sunrise about 20 years ago when I lived in the city.<br /> <img src="http://stover98074.smugmug.com/Other/Sharing/00496s9aej5mqzm0489/876674279_J3tnp-S.jpg" alt="" /></p>

<p>This is late afternoon sun in Pilsen - at my buddies courtyard. If you like ribs and are in Pilsen then make sure to visit Honky Tonk BBQ for award winning ribs. The bike photo was in the owners yard. <a href="http://www.honkytonkbbqchicago.com/">http://www.honkytonkbbqchicago.com/</a></p>

<p><img src="http://stover98074.smugmug.com/photos/813377003_aJUVw-S.jpg" alt="" /></p>

<p>Wonderful city for photography, but keep your gear light and hold on to it. The three shots below were taken on a trip to the City.<br>

<br /> Millennium is a fun spot to visit. This was taken looking West at sunset from the park - I think it was Washington Street.<br /> <img src="http://stover98074.smugmug.com/Other/Sharing/IMG6243/876061498_v5Yfr-S.jpg" alt="" /><br /> This was taken of the El from our hotel on Wabash. The widows open and since it was an old building there was a very large window sill to sit on for the photo.<br /> <img src="http://stover98074.smugmug.com/Other/Sharing/IMG2691/876061346_uZEjJ-S.jpg" alt="" /><br /> You can not go wrong with a visit to the beach. This was taken at Olive Park.<br /> <img src="http://stover98074.smugmug.com/Other/Sharing/IMG2728/876061385_fgjqB-S.jpg" alt="" /></p>

<p>I have the canon 85 1.8 and it is a wonderful lens. I use it when I photograph people and can not say enough good things about it.</p>

<p>I also have a manual focus 28 2.0 and enjoy it for wider angles. I find it relatively easy to focus the 28 2.0 by hand, especially if I stop the lens down. A used manual focus lens is very inexpensive and a way to try the focal length. I think I paid about $30 for it.</p>

<p>Here is an example of the manual focus 28 2.0.</p>

<p><img src="http://stover98074.smugmug.com/Other/Sharing/IMG5810/865358936_3pm8C-M.jpg" alt="" /></p>

<p>

Thanks for the kind words Chuck and yes manual can mean some duds.

This was second attempt at macro with insects and probably my tenth attempt with flash and macro. The first insect attempt was the night before I made this photo. The first attempt was also with the bees and the results out of 10 exposures were not good.

Fortunately the bees have been busy as they say and have been visiting this flowering bush each night.

I set up the photo in advance and then waited for the bee to visit the flower I selected.

I pre-focused on the flowers with the bellows on a tripod. This allowed me to set the amount of magnification, composure and focus spot. I did a few test shots with flash (Nikon SB 28DX in manual mode with an inexpensive eBay wireless $30 trigger). The test shots were of just the flower since the bees did not spend too much time on any one flower.

I got four or five exposures of the bee on the flower before it moved to another flower. I selected this one as the bee was flying away – overall it was the best of the bunch for exposure.

With a tripod I can use my hands to hold one or two off camera remote flashes – in essence a very flexible flash bracket!

The method is not fool-proof but it works (for me) with the gear I have at hand. Photography is a hobby and I am trying to manage costs.

Manual flash has taught me a lot about exposure and the Strobist Blogspot was an inspiration for using off camera flash and also in sharing my experience on macro photography.

</p>

<p>I recently wrote an article to help explain two inexpensive options for macro photography leveraging manual focus equipment. I started this journey a year ago and at that time I had lots of questions on what to use, how to use it and should I use it. Since photography is a hobby I also wanted a cost effective solution with minimal setup. The key was to go back 30 to 40 years in time for manual focus solutions used with 35mm SLR film cameras.<br>

<br /> My choice of manual focus was greatly influenced by reading an article by Bob Atkins on <a href="http://www.bobatkins.com/photography/eosfaq/manual_focus_EOS.html">Using Manual Focus Lenses on Canon EOS cameras</a>.<br>

<br /> The article is located <a href="http://sites.google.com/site/inexpensivemacrophotography/">here</a>.<br>

<br /> The bee below is example of what can be produced with this configuration. The photo was taken with a 105mm EL Nikkor, Asahi Pentax AutoBellows and an off camera flash in manual mode.<br>

<br /> <img src="http://stover98074.smugmug.com/Flowers/Macro-Flowers/IMG9053/860255376_jVsjZ-S-1.jpg" alt="" /></p>

<p >Seeing this posting got me to wondering on an inexpensive flash solution. I gave it a quick try this morning with the idea that it would be part of this article on inexpensive macro photography <a href="http://macrobellowsphotography.blogspot.com/">http://macrobellowsphotography.blogspot.com/</a> </p>

<p >I bought a manual flash with a light trigger built in the flash new on eBay for about $40. I set the built in on camera flash to low power and then can hand hold the manual flash where ever I like. The on camera flash triggers the off camera flash (they are in sync). </p>

<p>I also hold some bubble wrap over the flash. I have cut out a hole in cardboard and taped the wrap over the hole, I suppose tissue paper would work as well – perhaps it would not hold up that well.<br /> <br /> I find that the on camera flash at a low power does not impact the image. Off camera flashes are very inexpensive and give you a lot of control. Lookup Strobist and you will get the idea. The flash I used is Promaster FTD 6500M. </p>

<p>This is a very quick example I did with this setup. </p>

<p><img src="http://stover98074.smugmug.com/Flowers/Macro-Flowers/IMG8946/854343401_Zx6DK-M.jpg" alt="" /><br /></p>

<p>Lots of good information posted above and as a person who has recently started macro photography I purchased used equipment to keep the costs down.</p>

<p>I have started an article on using enlarging lenses with bellows at <a href="http://macrobellowsphotography.blogspot.com/">http://macrobellowsphotography.blogspot.com/</a>. It also discusses using a manual focus prime lens.</p>

<p>Regarding focal length, it will impact both magnification and working distance. In general, all things kept constant, the shorter the focal length the greater the max. magnification. Sounds nice, however, there is a cost and that is the shorter the focal length the shorter the working distance (your lens gets quite close to the subject).</p>

<p>To give you an idea, this picture was taken with a 50mm enlargement lens is probably 3:1 or greater for magnification. It is a water drop on a lilac bush. The lens was almost touching the drop of water.</p>

<p>I prefer 105 or 135 due to a greater working distance for most of my macro photos.</p>

<p><br /> <img src="http://stover98074.smugmug.com/Flowers/Macro-Flowers/IMG8783/850096681_BhMEW-S.jpg" alt="" /></p>

<p> </p>

<p>The photo below (Water Drop on Lilac Bush) was taken yesterday with a bellows and 50mm Fujinon EP enlarging lens (on a tripod). I think it was at f/22. Both the lens and the flash were within an inch or so of the water drop. The flash had a plastic diffuser on it and was triggered by an inexpensive radio and slave (no cords and all manual).<br>

<img src="http://stover98074.smugmug.com/Flowers/Macro-Flowers/IMG8783/850096681_BhMEW-M.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="400" /><br>

I have shot hand held with an off camera manual flash for product shots. I focus by moving closer to the subject and then shoot at my sync speed (1/200). I am planning on trying extension tubes with enlarging lenses which should make the camera lighter than when I shoot with the older and heavier Vivitar 90 MM 1:1 f/2.5.<br>

<br /> I have written about both a Vivitar 90mm 1:1 prime lens and enlarging lenses on bellows <a href="http://macrobellowsphotography.blogspot.com/">here</a>.</p>