jonathan_montague

<p>this is not going to be a 'run one filter' solution. you may get close ish with one filter or preset but these effects are created by combining a series of adjustment layers (possibly up to 10), and adjusting how they interact with each other, colour balance layers, curves, levels, layers filled with certain colours then set to 'exclusion' blending mode. I suggest searching for tutorials and get to know how colour is effected by different layer presetsand how to exclude certain colours from adjustment where required.<br>

the light leaks are again a matter of experimentation and blend modes.<br>

Often people expect there to be an 'instant' solution but for SOME photo treatments there is no substitute for experience and time spent experimenting..good luck!</p>

 

<p>Hi Lero<br>

try google searches for 'photoshop film actions' or 'photoshop vintage actions'<br>

that should yield a few results and tutorials about how to use the actions to create effects like above. once you use the actions they usually leave a handful of layers on the file you can then look at to understand how it has been achieved.</p>

<p>Adrian, if you can indeed show us or explain to the OP about this 'software' you are lording then I will study and quite possibly accept said argument for its use. until then it appears you are only interested in lambasting me and my views. you should be able to accept that others have a differing opinion to your own. isnt that what a forum is for ? this is all getting rather laborious but i feel compelled to quote your original post back to you.<br>

"all you are doing is expressing an opinion, and not a very well informed one at that"<br>

and so remind me, who is promoting one opinion as being correct over another ?<br>

I also fail to see how a forum post is indicative of me "as a photographer", if you mean I refuse to accept things on face value and like to find the real workings behind add-on software ? then yes thats me :) I am simply pointing out to Gus that you can achieve nearly everything a plug-in can if you know how, thus possibly saving him money in the process.<br>

and, sir, it is you who are resorting to flat out insulting another forum user in your previous post. prehaps you should familiarise yourself with the forum rules again.<br>

Ive made quite a few posts on this forum and always found people to be v friendly and informative. You are the first person who has behaved otherwise.</p>

<p>yes, we are all waiting for your genuine contribution. so far youve been of very little assistance to the OP. I was trying to inform him that you dont need to spend money on extra plug-ins or HDR 'software' if you have sufficient knowledge of photoshop and what it is capable of. I can only assume by your reluctance to explain further that your rhetoric outweighs your knowledge by some margin.</p>

<p>Adrian, did i touch a nerve dear boy ? prehaps you have a vested interest in this amazing software ?<br>

if you bothered to read my post you would firstly have been able to spell my name correctly, then you may have realised that i never said i hadnt tried HDR software. but prehaps you can enlighten us all.. would you like to explain what the difference is ? what can this software accomplish that someone cannot in photoshop using multiple scans, layers, masks and blending modes ?<br>

i wait keenly for your well informed OPINION..</p>

<p>as others have said all printers colour spaces are considerably smaller than the ProPhotoRGB space and usually smaller than AdobeRGB colour space. Keeping your master files as 16bit ProPhoto is a good thing but be aware you can make changes to the file and NOT be able to see the result on a monitor since the monitors colour space is a smaller than ProPhoto. So the watchword when editing in Pro Photo is not to be too extreme.</p>

<p>I only ever bracket slide film. little point with negs, after all most film has a 10 stop latitude(unless you have a extremely wide ranging landscape shot to capture, in which case youd be better of using a ND filter at capture stage)<br>

also i have no idea why you would use software to pseudo HDR your neg scans ? just scan 2 or 3 with different settings and overlay them in photoshop. simple.</p>

<p>smaller tripods could be attached to a backpack but if your doing serious landscape work and want a larger heavier tripod then they cant be attached to a pack. i sometimes switch to just carrying it as you end up with a lot of gear over your shoulder otherwise which can be sore after a time.</p>

<p>I use a luggage strap on my tripod to sling it over my back if i need to. most tripods have attachement points for these. its not perfect but does help. depending what im shooting i then leave the camera on the tripod and put the whole setup onto my shoulder when walking about.</p>

<p>get the older lens. I did. the optics are superior. escp towards the edges. wouldnt worry about automatic modes, if your getting into macro then you will most likely be in manual mode 99% of the time.</p>

<p>get yourself a film camera and you wont have to re-create the suedo film look, which is easily detected.</p>

<p>Thanks Jeff. Im too scared to add up all the hours Ive spent scanning, and when it comes to re-scanning, well youve been there. I am a member of that group so will investigate any videos.</p>

<p>Hi Jeff, Seb, Jim and Adrian! thanks for those tips I will have a search for that book. I am tempted to buy a plug-in but I always prefer to know whats going on via actions if possible. Jeff - Thank you for confirming there is no focus option on this scanner - I can stop looking for it now!<br>

I mistakenly thought buying a Imacon would instantly provide me top draw scans, but im finding Im actually at the bottom of a rather steep learning curve. the world was a simpler place when it was just my old Epson flatbed!<br>

I'll get there in the end (i hope)</p>

 

<p>Actually I would be v grateful if anyone who has used the same model as i have currently (shown below) could share any tips or advice. and I would love to be corrected about the focus calibration facility..<br>

http://www.shutterbug.com/content/imacon-flextight-photo-scanner</p>

 

<p>thanks both. John - I do not believe the focus on my model of scanner can be adjusted? its an original Flextight Photo model. The maintenance options menu within the Flexcolour software are greyed out. In the hardware manual it says 'see hardware section for focus calibration options'.... and there aren't any. In the original sales information it stated 'you never have to worry about calibration as its completely automatic ?<br>

If i can adjust the focus then id love to know how ?<br>

also - i know what you mean regarding SCSI. I spent lots of money on the RATOC converter and a port converter!<br>

Predrag - I will try that method of sharpening and see how it compares to my method, thank you.</p>

<p>Hi all.<br>

I recently bought a Imacon Flextight Photo scanner. It certainly impresses with the tonal range it can capture from the film but im slightly dissapointed regarding initial sharpness and the more I look into it the more I realise I probably dont know enough about this side of the workflow. of course if im scanning at full res (3200) the image is going to look soft on a 72dpi screen unless zoomed right in.<br>

So far I have been scanning at -120 USM which i believe is 'sharpening off' when using Flexcolour. I then convert the 16bit file to lab colour and use smart sharpen on the 'lightness' channel only.<br>

I have heard about other 3rd party sharpening plug-ins that deal with 'Input' and 'Output' sharpening which I have no clue about ? can i achieve the same thing these plug ins are capable of just using photoshop ?<br>

I understand that until i run some proper large test prints from my scanned files I have no real world way of judging how 'sharp' my images are compared to say a bureau imacon scan using a more modern scanner.<br>

just looking for some good advice regarding best practice when sharpening imacon scans.<br>

many thanks<br>

Jonny</p>

<p>i too was contemplating getting a fisheye for extreme sports shooting. i decided not to spend the money in the end. if your after a v wide lens have you thought about buying a Superwide system with its splendid 38mm lens..</p>

<p>As a relatively new user (2 years) of the V system I heartily recommend the Ernst Wildie book. totally invaluable IMO..</p>

<p>i have found with 120 film you tend to learn quickly from your mistakes ;)</p>

<p>"other than cutting a very scecific item.."<br>

or<br>

"using the path tool to isolate solid areas"<br>

as i said for isolated areas this is a good option.<br>

i actually prefer selective colour as the best colour correction tool when working on a whole image.</p>

<p>not entirely sure what it is your asking in the first part of your question but suffice to say there are multiple methods to achieve most things in PS. I would advise using the path tool to isolate solid areas, you can then create selections at will and feather them if desired.<br>

re the dropper tool, yes you can alter the sample size. select the tool. go to 'Sample size' and select your preference (3x3 average), (5x5 average) etc</p>

<p>hope that helps</p>

<p>its a question of digital art vs photography.</p>

<p>try doing some searches. there is plenty of useful information out there about rgb colourspaces.<br>

http://www.kenrockwell.com/tech/adobe-rgb.htm</p>

<p>ok i got a multi AC adapter so its a cosy night in for me and the scanner.</p>

<p>Hi both<br>

thank you for confirming that it 'should' work. I have no plans to upgrade my OS to 10.6 any time soon. The RATOC website says it wont support the original Flextight PHOTO scanner but fingers crossed it will. its taken me quite a while (and ££'s) to source the various adapters required for this set up so im desperate for it to work out. Im off to see if i can get a generic 5v AC power adapter for the RATOC converter.<br>

I have read about downgrading the firmware which appears quite straight forward as mentioned on the above blog link.<br>

now if i can only find someone who can service this scanner i'll be a happy camper. Hasselblad UK have stopped supporting it :(</p>