wmervine

<p>Nice diffused light combined with that lens shot wide open and probably reducing clarity in editing. Colour profile looks custom. From looking at his work he seems to edit alot like me. No presets as such, but you edit to taste on each image.</p>

<p>Ok I think I need to chip in here.<br>

Firstly certain things we look for in photo work are not as important for video. For instance autofocus is almost never used for serious video work. Also the use of lens mount adapters is very prevalent in the video domain. <br>

With regards to the Metabones speedbooster adapter with the Sigma this is a very popular combo for video work. Many pros swear by that combo for the GH-4 and various Blackmagic cameras. The adapter works fine with crop lenses on the m4/3 mount with no coverage issues. Also the aperture ring on the adapter works in 1/2 or 1.3 F-stop increments. It also has the option of declicking so changing aperture during shooting does not create any jumps in exposure and is smooth. <br>

As for choosing between mounts, The Nikon is cheaper with a manual aperture ring, but the Canon version is thinner and supports aperture control from the camera with autofocus and IS support. Another factor is in the video world there are alot of pro spec cameras using the Canon mount, but virtually none use the Nikon mount. My suggestion is firstly do you have any lenses you want to use, or have good friends shooting Canon or Nikon? If your answer is no to all of that then starting off I would say the Canon mount makes more sense.</p>

<p>Contrary to most stills photographers video is most often shot using manual focus. And as such adapting other lenses is done alot. Adaptors are available for both systems, with the Metabones speed boosters being very popular on the GH4 as it helps address the crop factor of micro four thirds.<br>

<br />However at this time I've not seen any adaptors to use the Fuji lenses on other mounts, and mounting M4/3 lenses on the Fuji will result in massive vignetting. But using something like Nikon or Canon lensed on both is feasible and done.</p>

<p>I keep forgetting to post. Having fun with strobes.</p><div></div>

<p>I recently read a blog post about sharpening for the X-Trans sensor, and find these settings do help.<br>

<br />Amount: 25 (or more if needed.)<br>

Radius: 1.0<br>

Detail: 100<br>

Masking: 10</p>

<p>Argh! Can't find it on B&H's website</p>

<p>And raided the old screw mount lens collection.</p><div></div>

<p>The green lighting actually helped on this one</p><div></div>

<p>A few cosplay pics to add some colour</p><div></div>

<p>I know what's on my shopping list.</p>

<p>No idea then. I almost never use exposure lock so never encountered that. I'll try it out tomorrow.<br>

I do know though that the exposure compensation dial is very easy to knock. Caught me out a few times.</p>

<p>Are you shooting wide open or at a fixed aperture?</p>

<p>Fire hoop</p><div></div>

<p>Boys at play</p><div></div>

<p>From a recent shoot</p><div></div>

<p>If you are spending this much to record, I'd budget for a decent external audio preamp. Then feed the Ninja.</p>

<p>I've done exactly that using the Metabones adapter. The one with the aperture control. Takes a little practice but it's pretty doable. And depending on what your Nikon bodies are, the advantages will be much lighter, and inmy case much better high ISO results ( I came from the D300)<br>

As for the look I do see a difference. Once you have a jpeg profile setup on camera you likeyou can get results out of camera that take more work to match from a Nikon raw.<br>

I will warn you though you will want to save up for the Fuji lenses. They are worth the money.</p>

<p>Of course even a warrior needs her BBM</p><div></div>

<p>So finally got to do a proper shoot with my new 35mm. I'm impressed how sharp it is at f/1.4</p><div></div>

<p>The c mount would work on the Nikon 1 series, and think someone does an adaptor. And I think infinity focus is possible. But honestly unless you have the lenses already I would rather invest in lenses that work on larger sensors.</p>

<p>The Metabones adapters come with tripod mount, and are really well made. I bought the version with aperture control, as it has the best setup for that I've seen in adapters.<br>

As for the grips, I know Fuji has updated some to give you access to the battery with it mounted, but the best option I've seen is a Chinese brand on ebay. Cannot remember the name though.</p>

<p>Interesting following your comments. I currently own a V1 with both zooms, and a XE-1 with kit zoom.<br>

The Nikon definitely has the edge on autofocus, but I'm coping with the Fuji. While I agree the Nikon is a nice street cam, mine is mostly used for video these days. I do plan on keeping both systems though. Both have their uses and appeal.</p>

 

<p>I was using a combination of the 35mm, 50mm, and 85mm, all f/1.8G lenses for studio and other work on my D300s. I tended to most often use the 35 and 85 combination, as the 50 was pretty close to the 35. Now the 50 would combine nicely with a 24mm, but alas there is no decent cheap option from Nikon at this point.<br /> I do agree with Shun that something around 70mm would be ideal, but again no fast primes in that range.</p>

<p>I think Nikon believe between the 24-85 VR and 24-120 VR they have covered that range per say. Sadly the 24-120 is seriously expensive, so maybe see if Sigma's new 24-105 is any good.<br>

And I also have the 28-105. Still keep it for my film cameras, and it's pretty decent for the price. The 24-85 VR is slightly better from my experience though.</p>

<p>You could get away with 1 flash indoors, but I would add a reflector to fill on the other side. This could even be a sheet of styrfoam. Maybe check out the strobist blog for more info. His basics cover shooting with just 1 flash.</p>