david_brown32

<p>I am coming into this discussion late but for what it is worth. I have a new Vivitar NDX 1000 variable that I used on a Sigma 28 - 105 on my D7000. At the Max Stop Value I have the same issue. I got a big blue blob in the middle of the frame and to some extent the same X. I thought that perhaps shooting into the sun would compound the problem but that fact did not seem to make much difference in the result.<br /> <img src="/photo/16984972" alt="" /></p><div></div>

<p>Same can be said for KEH.</p>

<p>I have an AE-II. When my battery is low I get the single red light. You may also want to clean the contacts with some non-abrasive static free cloth.</p>

<p>Well, my Epson 4490 does not do well with color? Black and white seems to be ok. <br>

Efke Aura 820 ISO 25, Bronica ETRSi, 40mm Zenazanon. F/22, 4 Seconds.</p><div></div>

<p>I am going to buy one "Fishers ANR Glass Adjustable Mounts" for my Epson. I am not satisfied with the flatness of the negative in the holder. As result the scan software does not know where to focus. I usually get a reasonable focus in the mid field but fore and background are not crisp, and my negatives are very nice.<br>

Again good work!</p>

<p>Dave</p>

<p>Nice Work did you scan these yourself?</p>

<p>Exactly Dave, when you shoot and process film in particular, you become a participant in the process. The photographer becomes more than an abstract, or more of one, depending upon your perspective. When I engage in the process of making an image with acetate, and chemistry, I feel as though I am integral to the construct, imbricate with the image, I belong to the image, not vice versa.</p>

<p>I have no reason to shoot anything other than Efke R 25. On occasion Rollei Ortho. I just sold a whole refrigerator full of Delta 100, and Pan F. Can't compare with Efke.</p><div></div>

<p>Shooting with film is as much a process as that of working in the darkroom. I feel better shooting 15 frames.. v.s. blowing through 34 gigs. I have to think about every single part of the shooting process. The film camera, has made my digital shooting better. </p>

<p>Well...not to be a spoiler but most of my friends use their digital cameras as light meters. I try not to but it does work well to confirm operation of your meter. My meter is almost 40 years old. Still works fine.</p>

<p>ETRSi 40mm Zenzanon R72 filter , SFX 200, <br>

<a href="http://www.myshutterspace.com/photo/cheeseman-cyano?xg_source=activity">http://www.myshutterspace.com/photo/cheeseman-cyano?xg_source=activity</a></p><div></div>

<p><img src="http://c2.api.ning.com/files/DOlxtXUK4dlAF2Jg4d3G9odCvC1f67dzFFm4YT05ZtLagVelPOZQkUZiq-w6G7w8yYYIw7fnVZM3Ckog4OKMMRSK6uT8zg*J/OldBarnDuotoneWeb.jpg" alt="" width="872" height="600" /><br>

This is why I still use my ETRSi. SFX 200/ R72 Filter. I have tried using the DSLR for IR and the quality is just not right for the medium.</p>

<p>I have an Epson 4490, I just bought it from Amazon. I don't know how it relates to V600 or V500. I have found it to work great with BW Neg. But is horrible with Color Transparencies? I have not tried elements as a tool for color shift but I have expended huge effort in CS 4 to get the Color and sharpness to look good, to no avail. I was wondering if anyone had used the V600 for color transparencies and if they look at all acceptable..At this point I am ready to send this 4490 back and try a V600. I am not sure there is much difference in the units?</p>

<p>I paid $112.00 with free shipping! I have not used it enough to really have much comment other than it is very good with BW negatives. And I am still trying to get the best out of color transparencies. It is pretty slow at higher resolutions, but at 300dpi it is the same as my friends V700. I am looking into the Silverfast scanning software suite for the 4490. I have watched a friend use it on his V700. It is amazing.</p>

<p>I just ordered and rec'd an Epson 4490 at incredible price. Maybe they are over stocked with older models???</p>

<p>I have been using a 2X for a while it works well, I am not noticing a huge drop in light..less that 1/2 stop. I use my 150 f 3.5 with the 2x and I can shoot closeup/macro from 6 feet away. Just be mindfull of the the shutter cocking and releasing when installing the lense on the converter. Follow Edwin Leungs steps. <a href="http://www.camerahobby.com/Photo-Bronica_Tips.htm">http://www.camerahobby.com/Photo-Bronica_Tips.htm</a></p>

<p>DB</p>

<p>Now I really feel lame..tried firing with out the back on the camera and everything worked fine. I put the re-installed the back on the body and it would not work..So installed another back and tried firing and it works fine...So I took both backs and looked at them side by side and found that the slide release pin was not pulling all of the way back into to the sleeve on the back in question. <br>

I am sure glad that I spent the 30 bucks to ship the body to KEH for "Repairs" It was totally my fault. Well not exactly I did by the non-working back from them.</p>

<p>Dave</p>

<p>KEH called me to say that there is nothing wrong with my body, so they sent it back, I have it in my hands and was only able to get the lense to fire once using the shutter release. Otherwise,<br>

Multiple exposure lever charged, dark slide out, film loaded, nothing, Mirror lock up nothing, the shutter does operate as I close the mirrow lock up.<br>

Any help would be appreciated<br>

Feeling idiot like, Dave</p>

<p>The lense filter diameter is usually stamped on the outermost ring(away from the camera)</p>

<p>I have recently begun using a ETRSi, and I have noticed that there are few 120 backs for sale out there, but many 220's.?? And the 120's seem in most cases to cost more. Why is this. I was hopping to find some reasonable 120 backs...Is it a big deal to shoot 120 in 220 backs.?</p>

<p>Dave</p>

<p>The cable release tap is on the opposite side of the body from the winder. Kind of toward the bottom of the opposite side. <br>

DB</p>

<p>When you get it figured out please let me know, I am shopping for an ext tube for my ETRSi rig. and I am also David Brown.</p>

<p>DB<br>

<a href="http://www.myshutterspace.com/profile/DaveBrown">http://www.myshutterspace.com/profile/DaveBrown</a></p>

<p><a href="http://www.camerahobby.com/Photo-Bronica_Tips.htm">http://www.camerahobby.com/Photo-Bronica_Tips.htm</a><br>

Tips regarding film backs and MLU etc.<br>

have fun<br>

Dave</p>

<p>Hello thanks for the tips, I did all of the above to no avail..I talked to KEH tech and decided since I only had the camera a day to ship it back for them to look at it. It was a beautiful body, it didn't even look like it had had a lense on it before!<br>

I have heard about the william cheung book. I see that there are a few used on Amazon, kind of spendy though.<br>

I wish that I had seen this before I sent my camera back to KEH.<br>

<a href="http://www.camerahobby.com/Photo-Bronica_Tips.htm">http://www.camerahobby.com/Photo-Bronica_Tips.htm</a><br>

Thanks again Dave</p>

<p>Hello,<br>

I am a new to Bronicas.. I just purchased what looks to be a perfect condition body and lense. I have tried everything to get the shutter to work following the Bronica intruction manual pdf. It will only release when the mirror lock lever is put pack to no lock up position. I have tried manual and auto. The battery is new, the AE II prism finder is working and has power. I have tried two different lenses. I have tried cleaning the contacts on the lense and the body. I have also tried operating with a cable release and that doesn't work either. If anyone with more ETRSi experience than I can make a suggestion I would appreciate it. <br>

Also is there an after market manual that is better than this poorly translated factory version.<br>

Thanks in advance,<br>

Dave</p>