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zack_rose

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Posts posted by zack_rose

  1. <p>I am coming very close to pulling the trigger and ordering a Pentax K-x from Adorama. I have never owned a DSLR. I am used to shooting 35mm. I know there have been other forums about this but I guess I am a bit overwhelmed with all the different opinions on the matter.</p>

    <p>I want to make sure there is a minimal chance of the card having problems, and that the card is fast enough (seems like 6MB/S is the max that the camera can write to the card?) However, the really high quality cards can get expensive. Would a Sandisk Ultra be enough? OR should I go with the Extreme III? Or some other model/brand? Are cards with less capacity more reliable? A lot of people say to buy two cards but typically you double the capacity for about a 25% increase in price. Anything else I should know that I'm not considering? I don't mind spending the money but not if it isn't necessary.</p>

    <p>Thanks<br>

    Z</p>

  2. <p>Thanks for all your responses. I must say the price was so low it seemed too good to be true. I would be paying over a hundred dollars less for exactly the same thing vs going to the camera shop. It's nice to support local businesses but that is a huge difference.</p>
  3. <p>I want to buy my first DSLR and am leaning heavily to the Pentax K-X. At the local camera shop and elsewhere the camera sells for the recommended $650 with the kit lens. I have seen (grey market?) cameras on eBay for as low as $480 new, but I assume these are basically as-is with no warranty or support. On Adorama they have the K-x listed at $529 with free shipping. Should I be right in my assumption that this is the same basic situation as eBay? From what people I know with DSLRs have experienced it seems like a good idea to have a warranty of some kind since these camera can have lots of problems.</p>

    <p>Thoughts?</p>

    <p>Thanks<br>

    Z</p>

  4. <p>I received a new Nikon Coolpix S560 Point and shoot as a gift last month. I had it in my bag and it must have knocked against something because the screen is now cracked. The right half still functions though strangely enough.<br>

    I plan on contacting the shop where it was bought, but I'm guessing this type of thing won't be covered. Also to pay someone to do it is about the price of just buying a new camera. I did a bit of research and it looks as if the screen isn't too difficult to replace.<br>

    For example this is a video of someone replacing the screen on a somewhat similiar device:<br>

    <a href="

    target="_blank">

    <p>I checked ebay and while most auction come from China, namely Hong Kong, there are actually a few reasonably priced replacement screens from American retailers like this one:<br>

    <a href="http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=190418066071&rvr_id=&crlp=1_263602_263622&UA=WXS%3F&GUID=b7c811961290a0266c65d585fffe59a8&itemid=190418066071&ff4=263602_263622#ht_2379wt_1202" target="_blank">http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=190418066071&rvr_id=&crlp=1_263602_263622&UA=WXS%3F&GUID=b7c811961290a0266c65d585fffe59a8&itemid=190418066071&ff4=263602_263622#ht_2379wt_1202</a><br /><br /><br /><br>

    Just wondering if anyone has experience in doing something like this. Seems like it's worth a shot but perhaps the replacement screen retailers are a rip off?</p>

    <p>Thanks in advance for your help.<br>

    -Z</p>

    <p> </p>

  5. <p>I gave my girlfriend a roll of Fuji Superia 400 to shoot in my 35mm camera (trusty Pentax K1000). Forgot to tell her that it was set at ISO 3200. She didn't notice and shot the roll at that setting.<br>

    The lab I bring my film to can push or pull film on request. I have done it before with black and white film with nice results.<br>

    How far can you push this film? Maybe just to 800 or 1600 would be ok if 3200 is too much? Obviously Superia is a very inexpensive film, so I don't know if it is designed for this kind of use (or abuse).</p>

    <p>Thanks<br>

    Z</p>

  6. <p>Thank you for your responses. I understand that of course the best solution is to get a light meter. However, at this point I simply want to get out and start using the camera, and was asking if this would be a good solution for the time being, and what tips one would give using this unusual method. I will note all the different specific meters to take into consideration. However, only one response directly answered my question. Any other thoughts?</p>

    <p>Thanks<br>

    Z</p>

  7. <p>I recently purchased a Mamiya m645 1000s. It came with the unmetered prism. Don't really feel like buying a metered one right now. I don't have a DSLR, but I have a Pentax K1000 and an ME Super. Can I use one of their internal light meters to gauge a good exposure for the Mamiya? If so, what would be the technique? I would assume I would just place the camera at approximately the same position as the Mamiya, set the ISO and f-stop accordingly and go from there. One thing though, since the lens that came with the Mamiya is a 55mm, should I use a comparable lens in the 35mm camera (I think this would be a 35mm lens)?</p>

    <p>Thanks<br>

    Z</p>

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