gary w.

<em>In baseball the course of the game and the outcome can turn on a single play that can happen faster than in any other sport I can think of. </em><p>

Boxing.<br>

(I just had to get in on this thread somehow...)

There is a book called:<br>

"Business and Legal Forms for Photographers (Business and Legal Forms)"<br>

by Tad Crawford<p>

You can find it on Amazon or Chapters. I don't have any direct experience on how good it is (2 out of 2 people on amazon gave it 5 stars)<p>

Also check out:<br>

<a href=http://www.cbsc.org/ontario>http://www.cbsc.org/ontario</a>

My 35s had a loose barrel - similar to what you describe. It seemed to have no effect on the pictures though.<br>

Eventually the focus jammed (probably wasn't a good idea to carry it around in my hockey bag...)<br>

When it came back from getting repaired, the lens was tight (and still is - although I haven't used it a lot lately). The repair cost me under $70.00 CAN.

<em>Hitler versus Stalin - the Second World War in the Eastern Front in Photographs</em></p>

- does that count?

A decision-factor for me was the size of the lens'</p>

I had at one time, a 20mm 2.8. That lens is Big...Go into a store and compare it with a voigtlander 21 4. I can carry the voigtlander as an extra lens in my pocket.

I don't have a problem doing it. I find it quite easy.

I have my index finger on the shutter button (with softie) and use my middle finger to change the shutter speed dial (which is ridged to allow your finger to grip easier).

On the Bessa L, It doesn't work.

Sold individually, you could probably get:

body: $200-250,

50mm 1.4: $80-100 ,

50 1.8: $40-50,

28 2.8: $80-120,

Are they screw-mount or the "new FD"?

135 3.5 FL: $20,

So Maybe, $450

Selling everything separately and....worse yet, thats all in $CDN

The other stuff I don't know...

Thats not enough to buy close to anything of similar quality. If possible, I would put it all in a closet while you buy and try a new camera. In a year time, if you don't go back to it, you can sell it all then for the same prices.

I figured I would sell my almost exact set (except the 50 1.8...but with a power winder) but I have decided to keep it for now. I find I like it better than my Elan (first model), and a new 50 1.4 (which I really like) would cost me more than I would get for the whole set-up.

You can always check "completed auctions" on Eb*y

I'm not quite understanding Beau's point: he is referring to post-processing which doesn't necessarily have anything to do with which camera (digital or film) you should buy. I can do everything he stated with my film camera...it just takes me approx. an extra minute to scan the film. I pay the price for that minute to get what a digital camera can't give me....a negative.

If you don't care whether you have a negative, and you have a little extra cash to spend (or a lot to get one without lag), then buy a digital.

More random thoughts...

I have an A1 as well as an Elan (original). I like both cameras, but find myself using the A1 more often.

One reason is because I like the FD lenses better. I can't tell the difference optically. They're cheaper. You can buy faster lenses at a much cheaper price. All the ones I own have the depth of field markings where the autofocus ones often don't. They're often built better (except perhaps for the L lenses which I've never owned), and they are easier to focus in low light (when autofocus doesn't work well). I can also prefocus by looking at the distance markings on the lens (my EF 50mm 1.8 has not markings at all). Did I say they're cheaper?

The meter on the A1 is rated better for low light than any EOS except perhaps the pro bodies.

I can tell immediately what I have my film rated at without having to move the command dial (for some reason that bugs me...)

I can use infra-red film with no worries with the A1.

The thing I do like on my Elan:

The thumb wheel. And the top wheel is easier to use as well.

The Elan is a little lighter with a 50mm lens attached (1.8 on the elan, 1.4 on the A1). Especially if you put the winder on the A1. - but not really smaller.

Exposure compensation is MUCH easier to use on the Elan (thumb wheel) - although I've turned it without knowing more than once.

The pop-up flash does come in handy once in a while.

Loading film is much easier and faster (no fiddling) - especially when its dark.

Its got a mirror lock-up ....well prefire anyway, not that I've noticed that it effects the picture any.

The infra-red remote is fun to use sometimes.

When I am out hiking or travelling light I take the Elan, when am out only taking pictures I take my A1.

Outside the lenses, If you have an A1, I can see you being happy with the Elan 7 - but I wouldn't think you can replace it with the Rebel.

Hope my ramblings help!

From my A1 manual:

"The data displayed in the viewfinder will be the same as if the camera was in shutter priority AE. You will see the shutter speed you have set on the AT dial. The aperature displayed is that the camera would select on Auto."

If you have a blinking 1.4, the camera is telling you that you are underexposing (you need a larger aperature than 1.4 at your given shutter speed). Try using a slower shutter. The "M" in the viewfinder reminds you that you are in Manual mode.

Your depth of field button will only go in if your lens is off the "A" mark. When you push the the DOF button the camera will automatically behave as if you were in the AE mode (the camera will automatically set a relevant shutter speed)

Hope that fixes your problems. I got my A1 manual second hand on E**Y for under $10 (photocopy)

Another article:<br>

http://collections.ic.gc.ca/heirloom_series/volume4/118-121.htm <p>

and a collection of pictures:<br>

http://www.westongallery.com/artists/y_karsh/yousuf_karsh.html <br>

http://www.geh.org/karsh-intro.html

Have a look here:<br>

http://www.craigcamera.com/ib_voigt.htm<p>

I've ordered a manual from craigcamera before (for an old enlarger) - It was a good experience - fast with no problems.