ron_meyer

Joshua,

I just received 2 rolls of 120 Efke IR film and hopefully I'll be able to do some test rolls very soon. I have quite a bit of experience with the MACO version and I still have about 12 rolls in the fridge, so I'll do some side-by-side shoots and report the results I get. If I remember correctly, I also used a #87 IR filter.

My experience with the MACO version was the effective ISO with my filter was more around 2 (this of course, depends on developer you use, etc.). That wasnt an issue since I usually like to use a tripod anyway to get the sharpest possible image. My advice would be to shoot a test roll with a wide range of exposures and see what happens. Make your first image on the roll a "normal" non-IR photo without the IR filter. That way, when you process the film, you have a test image to check out your procedures and make sure any image exposure problems are really exposure problems and NOT in the processing.

Another hint, with the 120 film, be careful about ambient light exposure. You dont need total darkness, but avoid direct sunlight or bright reflected light. I developed a roll with some subtle strange marks and then realized it was the markings on the paper back, that left their patterns as bright ambient light cooked the outside. Its not super sensitive, but just use some caution and common sense and you'll be OK!

I'm hoping the EFKE version is as good as the MACO, beautiful stuff!

Ron

I've just shot my first 2 rolls of 645 slide film and I'm wondering

if anyone can make any recommendations about the type/brand of mounts

to use. Plastic or cardboard? The rolls came back from the lab

unmounted.

I would also like to hear about people's experiences and/or

recommendations with medium format projectors.

Thanks in advance.

I learned B&W film development and basic printing techniques thru an

adult education class offered by the local community college. Check to

see if there is something like this in your area. Sure the web has

lots of great info, but there's no substitute for actual hands on

experience and the guidance of an expert instructor to help you thru

the process!

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Only one thing, beware, you'll get hooked on this and you won't be

able to stop taking, developing, and printing pictures! Have fun and

good luck!!

I've just starting processing my own B&W films and I have been experimenting with Kodak Verichrome, Ilford Pan F, FP4+, and HP5+. I use Ethol UFG developer since this is what I used in a lab class thru a local community college. I'm very happy with my results to date, but I've heard several experienced photographers say the best results with Ilford films will come from using Ilford developers (by design of Ilford). Can anyone share their experience with this?

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I shoot mostly 120 film and enlarge to 8x10, but I would like to enlarge some prints to 11x14 or 16x20, and I wonder if Pan F and Ilford's perceptol (or other Ilford developers) will give optimal results for grain and sharpness in the larger print sizes?

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thanks in advance!

Hi Isabel,

I have a 645 Pro Tl as well and I just purchased the same extension rings too! In the instruction sheet there is a close up photography table that has the exposure factors for the rings and combinations (note I think combining no 1 and 2 is the same as the 3S). The table is only for the 80mm f/2.8 and 1.9 lens. The exact exposure depends slightly on the distance, but with the no. 1 and the f/2.8, it looks like the exposure needs to be increased by 1/2 stop. With the no.2 use 1 stop.

I'm not sure what to due for the 150mm lens, perhaps contact Mamiya directly for their recommendations. Hope this helps!

Ron Meyer

I just received a M645 this last weekend that I purchased mail order.

When I advance film, the crank turns very smoothly, until the frame

counter advances close to 1, then the resistance to turning increases.

When advancing the film frames 1 to 15, it still has this increased

resistance (relative to advancing film when it is first loaded), then

there is this "curchunck" (cocking the shutter, I think) and a

noticeable feel to the film advance, just at the end of rotation of

the film advance crank.

I think this is normal operation, but I'm not sure? I new to medium

format cameras, so I'm looking for more understanding on the cameras

operation. I handled the camera in local stores before I bought it

mail order, but never fired it with film loaded. FYI I ordered it from

B+H Photo in NYC.

thanks, Ron Meyer

A general question from someone looking to venture into MF cameras.

I had a salesman tell me that the new Bronica lenses are definitely

sharper that any of the Mamiya lenses. At the time we were discussing

645 camera systems. I generally do landscape/architecture, travel

photography and the salesman recommended Bronica over the Mamiya,

unless you were primarily into portraits. Then the softer Mamiya

lenses would be a better route.

I relayed this info to a retired professional photographer who used a

RB67 for wedding/portrait photos. He said in his experience the

Mamiya lenses were NOT soft. In fact he had problems with the RB

lenses for portraits because they were too sharp. So he thought the

salemans didnt know his stuff. The retired photographer also was a

manager of a large photo store many years ago so he really knew

cameras well at one time (perhaps he is not up on current products)

Who is right? Is there a difference between the Mamiya 645 lenses and

those for the RB that could account for his experience? Are the Mamiya

645 lenses really considered "soft" or is the Bronica just so much

sharper? I am interested in the 645 format because I would like

something lighter and smaller for travel.

Thanks in advance for your opinions!