louis_rosenthal

<p>SO - I finally decided I couldn't wait any longer, and made the step forward from a D90 with a bunch of lenses to a D700+24-70!</p>

<p>I'm happy, but there's one thing i cannot figure out, no manual or anything seems to mention and that is:</p>

<p><strong>How can I edit NEF's in the camera, for such things as exposure, WB, and the like - as is possible with the D90.<br />Can it be done, and if so, how?</strong></p>

<p>thanks loads in advance!<br />-Louis </p>

<p>you can download Lightroom 3.2 beta for free --> that will work.</p>

<p>yeah I too have the 17-50 2.8 (old version tamron, i got it for around $275 a week and a half ago)</p>

<p>I originally got the D90 with a 16-85 AND 70-300.... in addition to that i have a 50 1.4 (AF-S, nikon) and a 11-16 2.8 tokina, which is EXTREMELY fun to use, incidently has a tilt/ shift style effect in certain circumstances (more on that in a different thread later today).....</p>

<p>basically it all comes down to this: WIDE or LONG?<br>

-->wide/standard, get the tamron and the tokina and you'll love the never before experienced effects. (both together go for about $1000, but they're really awesome!<br>

-->long, and i'd look into the 70-300 or 80-200 as previously mentioned.</p>

<p>i'd say that's expecting too much.<br>

for decent results that high up you'd need FX.<br>

i've been doing low light flash photography with my D90 for 8 months now (over 4000 uploaded pictures) and i've only resorted to that high of ISO in extreme situations, because it just won't render clear results.<br>

I usually work at around ISO 800 to 1600, because club settings are very dark. in your case i'm guessing you probably don't have very fast long lenses.... try a 80-200 2.8 or 70-200 2.8 and ISO no higher than 1000</p>

<p>cheers,<br>

-Louis</p>

<p>wireless flash, fps, active D-lighting, ISO noise (probably at normal ISO levels as well), 3 inch AWESOME LCD and more are reasons to get the D90.</p>

<p>I would say that YES it is quite an upgrade with all the technological changes in the past 5(!!!) years.</p>

<p>I own the D90 and have used D50, D60, D70s, D80 and D300 (though all somewhat briefly, a judgement can easily be made.</p>

<p>not bad - i guess i should try the same with my D90 pictures....</p>

<p>the tokina 11-16 2.8 is absolutely KiLLeR!!!! i've had it for around 8 months and it has really been fun - use it for landscapes, overviews at parties (in clubs), and blind framing (ie. reaching out and taking a picture of, for example, a DJ at a party.)</p>

<p>really when it comes to wide angle the 11-16 has served me REALLY well in the time that i've had it :)</p>

<p>I'm really interested in the sigma 85mm 1.4 that's to be released most likely next month.</p>

<p>If it comes out at a good price and delivers good quality images i'm definitely going to buy it.</p>

<p>here in switzerland the non VC goes for around $250 and the VC for around $590 :D</p>

<p>read the whole manual? wow cliché much! i have had my D90 for over a year and i've barely touched it :D</p>

<p>IN RESPONSE TO THE QUESTION:<br>

you're looking at the wrong settings - there is a circular DIAL on the left-hand-side of your flash. there are M, A, S, P, Auto (the green one) AND THEN THE "NO FLASH" SYMBOL. (in that order; turn it so the circle with the lightning bolt crossed out is aligned with the white line between the dial and the viewfinder)</p>

<p>in case you still wanted that clarified.....</p>

<p>maybe Rene' is a Nikon factory worker, so working less than an hour to afford that lens would translate to "I made that."</p>

<p>---->if so, Rene', my birthday isn't for another 10 months, but.... ;)</p>

<p>I believe anybody with a passion for photography shall be allowed the right to their own style :)</p>

<p>cheers Rene' - enjoy it :)<br>

-Louis</p>

<p>http://www.zipeg.com/</p>

<p>that's a free program and it works really well.</p>

<p>they have a video tutorial on that link as well.</p>

<p>****EDIT****<br>

to zip the files, mark them all in the finder/explorer and right click ----> there should be an option compress as .zip/.rar/.......</p>

<p>in addition, to make it just ONE FILE, .zip it (=compress)</p>

<p>simple: resize.<br>

there's no other way to fit what's likely to be between 30mb and 600mb in one email.</p>

<p>i usually use faststone image viewer to quickly resize pictures if i'm not going to edit them.<br>

it can be downloaded for free at www.faststone.org</p>

<p>1. go to the right folder<br>

2. mark the right pictures<br>

3. batch process (i think it's called "batch convert")<br>

--->under additional options you can specify how big you want the pictures to be. I'd specify it based on LONG SIDE and probably no more than 2000 pixels. (for comparison, the vast majority of computer screens have less resolution!<br />Basically repeat (with different resolutions) until desired attachment size is reached. Gmail allows for 20MB attachment in total i believe, but LOADS OF OTHERS allow a maximum of only 10MB.</p>

<p>hope that helps<br>

-Louis</p>

<p>and the tamron (new) goes for 300 francs ----> just over 200 euros</p>

<p>i probably don't have to explain this but.....<br>

don't bother doing group photos at f1.8 - there will be too many people out of focus.</p>

<p>it's a whopping 760 Swiss Francs here in Switzerland - that's around 500 euros :D</p>

<p>http://coinmill.com/CHF_calculator.html#CHF=760</p>

<p>THE ANSWER TO YOUR PROBLEM LIES HERE!!</p>

<p>so this happened to me once and i quickly discovered the issue upon replacing the memory card with another one.</p>

<p>THERE IS A "LOCK" LEVER ON YOUR MEMORY CARD----->UNLOCK IT (when it's locked, you cannot read or write information to it, but the lever is often bumped accidently</p>

<p>that should do the trick :)<br>

cheers,<br>

-Louis</p>

<p>i just bought a 24-70 2.8 today because i'm looking to go FX sometime in the next few months. I have around 25 shoots planned between now and july.</p>

<p>I know of at least 3 pros that work with the 17-55 2.8, and i'd definitely get a 50mm 1.4 or 35mm 1.8, sigma has a few fast primes worth looking at - fast primes are great for portrait photography in general.</p>

<p>IN ANY CASE: 18-55 nikon is garbage by comparison!</p>

<p>I've been using the 16-85, which is really sharp and all that, but the aperture just wouldn't throw backgrounds out of focus enough for my satisfaction....</p>

<p>it would be the "cheaper" option if you don't have much cash laying around.</p>

<p>i'm doing the whole day for either free or a few hundred.... that extent of work for wedding shoots here goes for around $3000.... sounds like a prosperous future to me if i get that far :D</p>

<p>thanks again all, I've done a few shoots without any problems with the SB-800 incorporated in my set up - everything works flawlessly :)</p>

<p>outdoor shoots will be things like CD covers for a band, portraits, and such....</p>

<p>here are some examples, it's my first shoot of this form, but in response to uploading it, 25 people asked me for shoots, and in late july i'll have that wedding shoot, so i believe getting the D700/successor thereof 2 weeks prior would give me enough time to get used to it and do a good job....<br>

 

 

 

 

http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=388699&id=847470423&l=42f56704ee

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

</p>

<p>I have SB-600, SB-800, and SB-900 (one each, don't ask me why all three different models:))</p>

 

 

<p>The essence of my question would be: nikon/sigma/whatever, and should i get it now/is it usable on DX?</p>

<p>Ok so I have around 25 shoots planned over the course of the next few months, and i'm thinking about getting the 24-70 (nikon) ahead of time to use it with the D90 so i have better DOF control than with my 16-85mm.... for those shoots.... I realize the wide angle issue but i should be able to work around that since 90% of the shoots will be outdoors.<br>

I have 2 wedding shoots in the summer, so i'm going to need some good glass....<br>

I'm going to be buying Either the D700 (used), D700_ (depending on specs), or go big daddy and get the D3s.</p>

<p>my current lens line-up is:<br>

11-16 2.8 (tokina)<br>

16-85<br>

70-300<br>

50 1.4</p>

<p>thanks in advance!<br>

-Louis</p>

<p>HEADS UPP!!!!!!!!!<br /> ok i've done INTENSE party photography for 8 months (over 4000 pictures uploaded and around 200 hours of shooting)<br /> I use but 3 lenses, for 3 specific purposes, you may need only one!!!</p>

<p>THE MOST IMPORTANT THINGS YOU WILL NEED:<br /> --the 16-85mm (nikon) OR the 17-55mm f2.8 (nikon)<br /> --usable ISO of at least 1000, I know so many people that work under considerably worse circumstances just because they can choose between only ISO 800 and 1600 and 1600 has horrible noise.<br /> --->I work with the D90, and an SB-600 will do it for the flash. (YOU NEED EXTERNAL, INTERNAL WILL NOT DO IT)</p>

<p>Optional add-ons:<br /> -ultra-wide:<br /> the 11-16mm f2.8 tokina (for the "overview" pictures, showing how many people are attending--->marketing - if it says "everybody is there", it's worth using, but you'll likely not need a wide angle of that caliber)<br /> -very good low light:<br /> and the AF-S 50mm 1.4 - i use it for DJ detail shots - a hand touching the vinyls or adjusting the levels and such.<br /> OR<br /> AF-S 35mm 1.8 (larger angle)</p>

<p>I MAY have misunderstood, my response is for low lighting as in pretty much all clubs...</p>