andrew_andrews1
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Posts posted by andrew_andrews1
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<p>Hi Yenny,<br>
It seems that they are a charity of some sort (they appear to be largely funded by donations). <br>
All they've done is asked to use your photos on their site, if you agree say yes, if not say no.<br>
The most useful photographer credit to give them would be your name and website. This could be beneficial to you in terms of SEO and driving traffic to your site. If you already have the images, I don't see what you have to lose by sharing your images and getting credit for them. I doubt they'd be willing to pay huge sums of money, but you could ask.<br>
They seem pretty reasonable in the way they've approached you.<br>
Andrew</p>
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<p>When in an open area with nothing to bounce your flash off and having your dome diffuser as the only option, the best way to achieve a soft light is to use your dome diffuser on your flash with your flash pointed upwards at 45 degrees. Of course it doesn't bounce of anything, but it does send some diffused light towards the subject, and if the flash is in TTL mode will do a decent job of exposure. It is better than dome diffuser with the flash pointed directly forward, it gives a more diffuse light.<br>
I'm speaking from experience and those 'idiots' probably knew what they were doing.<br>
Try it yourself.</p>
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<p>Yes there are way too many Andrews on the thread.<br>
I think this offer is additional to the cashback on the D600 and D5200.</p>
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<p>Apologies if this is old news, but thought it worth sharing.<br>
I just bought a Nikon D600 from the London Camera Exchange on the Strand, and within minutes of purchasing it (and giving them my email) was emailed a list of discount vouchers for lenses and flashes.<br>
Details of the various lenses and discounts here <a href="http://www.36exp.co.uk/money-off-nikon-lenses-flashes-and-grips/">http://www.36exp.co.uk/money-off-nikon-lenses-flashes-and-grips/</a><br>
Worth bearing in mind if you are considering a new body and lens purchase. Vouchers are valid until Dec 13. Not sure if all dealers are participating and which bodies it applies to, fairly certain it also applies to the D800.</p>
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<p>Hi,<br>
I read in many reviews / previews that the handling of the D600 is akin to the D7000.<br>
I've never used a D7000, and am considering an upgrade from the D300.<br>
In terms of handling, would the D600 be a backwards step from the D300? I mean in terms of speed of making changes to ISO, exposure mode, AF mode etc.<br>
I'd also be interested to hear any opinions of AF and exposure performance when compared to the D300.<br>
Thanks in advance for any practical advice!<br>
Andrew</p>
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<p>Hi Nate,<br>
Thanks for posting you experiences which are useful and contain some good tips, a few of points based on my experience:<br>
Google Places - yes of course this should be done, but it is subject to the same need for optimisation as general web based searches<br>
Don't waste your money on paid ads? - this is bad advice - I use adwords and track the conversions to bookings, I know this method delivers a return on investment<br>
95% of people start their search in Google - I'd say 50% of my business comes from recommendations, another 20% from print ads, 20% from recommendations, and 10% from Google.<br>
Wordpress is a good web CRM, but not the only one.</p>
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<p>Do a Google search on "graham playford camera repairs". He comes highly recommended, and is in the SE1 area.<br>
I dropped a Nikon FM2 in there yesterday. I have never seen such a huge stack of cameras. Seems very knowledgable and prices are very reasonable.</p>
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<p>Thanks. Yes the prints are really nice, can't be fully represented on the screen.</p>
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<p>I found my dad's old Agfa Isolette III about a year ago, after a bit of research on the web and on these forums, I finally got round to taking it out for a spin.<br />Despite the fact that it's been sitting unused for possibly over 30 years it works well. There are no holes in the bellows, the shutter seems to be accurate, the focus ring is super tight but does turn, and the shutter sticks on any speed slower that 1/30 sec. I can live with all that.<br />I can see the two images in the uncoupled rangefinder, but they are out of alignment horizontally as well as vertically, so I have been guessing focus.<br />So, here are a couple of images I printed last night. I made some 10inx10in prints, which were too big to fit on my scanner which is max A4, so the images appear as rectangles as the scan has cropped an inch or so from the left and right.<br />It was also my first foray into split filter printing, and it's the only way I'll print from now on.<br />Both taken at f11, using the sunny 16 rule for exposure.<br />This camera has the Apotar lens, which is supposedly better than the Agnar, but inferior to the Solinar.<br />The prints are really sharp, so it seems that at f11 this lens is a strong performer. This is my first venture into medium format, and I now fear I'm hooked, just by the print quality, of a low end, small, portable MF camera. Highly recommended.<br /><a title="Engulfed by 36exp.co.uk, on Flickr" href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/36exp/6232347186/"><img src="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6056/6232347186_03b5197152_z.jpg" alt="Engulfed" width="525" height="640" /></a><br /><a title="Sunshine by 36exp.co.uk, on Flickr" href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/36exp/6231829763/"><img src="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6215/6231829763_3c7aeb52a4_z.jpg" alt="Sunshine" width="542" height="640" /></a></p>
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<p>Yes, I was trying to fire the shutter with the lever in the lock position, next time I will read the manual!</p>
<p>Thanks for everyone's responses.</p>
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<p>Hi,<br>
I recently acquired a Nikon FM2 which seems to have a shutter problem.<br>
After thinking that the shutter was faulty I have found that I can fire it by pushing a pen into a smallish hole on the bottom of the camera, I can then advance the film.<br>
However, I cannot fire the shutter using the normal shutter release button on the top of the camera, I have tried this at all shutter speeds.<br>
Am I being stupid, is there be any reason for this, or is there a simple repair?<br>
If not, I'll send it back.</p>
<p>Thanks,<br>
Andrew</p>
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<p>Yes, it was described as fully working, but it was only £40. If it was easy to fix myself I'd give it a go, but if not it'll be going back.</p>
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<p>Thanks again Michael. It has a shutter speed dial as in the left photo of the FM2, so it looks like it is an FM2 with the wrong shutter speed lettering glued on.<br>
The next problem is that the shutter doesn't fire, and the film advance lever has to be forced hard to go further than half way. For another thread I guess.</p>
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<p>Thanks Michael, just checked and I do have those date back contacts.<br>
I also just noticed that the shutter speed dial advances by two clicks beyond the 1/1000 mark, so i'm guessing that someone has stuck the wrong shutter speed dial on there.</p>
<p> </p>
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<p>Hi,<br>
I have today received a Nikon FM2 from a famous auction site and am confused about it.<br>
It is all black with FM2 in white letters, in the usual place on a black body.<br>
However, it has a top shutter speed of 1/1000 sec and a flash sync speed (in red of 1/125), and these are the speeds that I would expect an FM to have, not an FM2 or FM2n.<br>
I have searched mir.com, photo.net, apug etc but can find no referenec to a Nikon FM2 with a top shutter speed of 1/1000 sec.<br>
It has a serial number N 7756630.<br>
I am very confused.</p>
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<p>nope</p>
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<p>Last night I attended a market research session on a new camera design, they showed a mock up and spec of a new camera with a dSLR spec and APC C size sensor, in a small retro body.<br>
There is more info on my blog: <a href="http://www.blog.36exp.co.uk/2011/09/07/the-samung-retro-r1-dslr-spec-in-compact-body/">http://www.blog.36exp.co.uk/2011/09/07/the-samung-retro-r1-dslr-spec-in-compact-body/</a></p>
<p> </p>
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<p>Relax and enjoy yourself rather than stressing out about backing up your photos would be my advice.</p>
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<p>Semi pro full frame bodies with all the bells and whistles for less than £100, that will most likely work with your existing lenses<br>
Or, compact kits for travel, which are both cheap and much lighter and than lugging around your dSLR<br>
A different aesthetic<br>
A different process<br>
Try it, you might like it</p>
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<p>Bring a helmet, and a few Marines.</p>
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<p>When I first started photography film was the only option, then I went fully digital, and now I use a combination of both. Digital for paid work, and film for personal.<br>
Part of the reason I did this was because my digital kit got so big and heavy I never took it anywhere, I looked at the options and any good, small digital cameras with decent manual controls, or an entry level SLR were too expensive.<br>
So, I picked up a couple of old film cameras, one an SLR and a compact and used them, I fell instantly back in love with film. The aesthetic is different, neither is better, just different. The process of creating photos is also different, and there is some magic in not instantly seeing your shots.<br>
I now develop my own black and white film and I believe there are looks you can get with BW film that you can't get with digital, here are some examples:<br>
<a title="Street Photography by 36exp.co.uk, on Flickr" href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/36exp/5785915340/"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3555/5785915340_8343175106.jpg" alt="Street Photography" width="256" height="308" /></a><br>
<br /><a title="Chain by 36exp.co.uk, on Flickr" href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/36exp/5785921956/"></a><br>
<br /><a title="Chain by 36exp.co.uk, on Flickr" href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/36exp/5785921956/"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5184/5785921956_8f66ab7245.jpg" alt="Chain" width="500" height="375" /></a><br>
</p>
<p>It does take longer to create images with film, and it does cost more, although the cameras are cheaper.<br>
Neither is better, just different, and this argument will never be won either way.<br>
I'd suggest picking up a cheap film SLR from ebay and giving it a go, you may be able to use your existying lenses with it.</p>
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<p>Hi Dave Lee,<br>
Which DX lenses did you have and which FX lenses did you buy?<br>
I will be in this situation in the next 12 months - upgrading from D300 to D700 (or it's replacement)</p>
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<p>The live <a href="http://www.andrew-mason.com/music.html">band photography</a> on my site were all shot with a Sigma 28mm f1.8, a Tamron 17-50mm, Nikon 85mm f1.8, or Nikon 50mm f1.8 all at around max aperture, ISO 1600, shutter speed of of around 1/80 sec, and a lowly D300<br>
So, any lens with a reasonable max aperture will do!</p>
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<p>Hi,<br>
I've only recently got into developing my own BW film and have been happily developing Tri-X rated at ASA 400 in RO9 (Rodinal).<br>
Currently I'm shooting some rolls of Tri-X pushed to 1600, and I will soon be using some TMax 3200 as I'm doing some low light work.<br>
I've heard that RO9 isn't so good for pushing or for high ISO films?<br>
For convenience, as I use a dark room at a local camera club so can't store cehmicals or solutions there, and because I don't develop that much film, I would much rather use a 'one shot' developer, i.e. a liquid developer I can dilute as needed.<br>
Are there any one shot developers which are good (or better than RO9) with high speed film?</p>
<p>thanks</p>
<p>Andrew</p>
Focusing on portraits
in Nikon
Posted
Yes, buy the new cameras you mentioned. 99% of the time not getting the results you want can be resolved by buying a
new camera rather than understanding what you are doing.