jez_emin

<p>My initial reply was typed in via my iPad - since then I've been on to the Photosmith website (which I must say I find the layout a bit hard to find the info I'm looking for - maybe the reason I now have this problem).<br>

<br /> Here is their blurb.....<br>

<br /> "The sync process will start transferring over any new images, and applying the metadata (collections, keywords, stars, ratings, labels, EXIF). <strong>Everything is transferred over WiFi, so there’s no need to use iTunes or even plug your iPad in for the sync.</strong> Modern cameras take some pretty big pictures, so some files can get pretty large, and WiFi can get slow, so Photosmith will continue to transfer the images even if the iPad goes to sleep. (But not if you switch apps due to restrictions in the current iOS software )."<br>

<br /> So there you have it.....</p>

Wow,

Finally a topic where I actually get to provide some input ! (usually I am the one needing the assistance)

I am at the very cusp of issues with the iPad, Lightroom, iTunes, and the main bugbear.... Photosmith.

I bought my iPad about 2 weeks ago for Photography and that purchase was partly driven from what I read about

Photosmith.

Now, what is Photosmith..... It is an app that you use while out with your camera, in the field, to *rate* and *categorise*

etc your pictures just like Lightroom (but away from your computer) so that when you get back to your office and

computer you can apply those ratings to the files you put over from your iPad to your computer for further working on in

Lightroom.

It's meant to give you the opportunity to work on your images during 'dead' time......

Yesterday I contacted support of Photosmith because I was finding that to put the 47 raw images (12mp) from my iPad

into Lightroom via my computer and cable took 1hr.......

I was then shocked to learn from the cofounder of the Photosmith app that even if your iPad is connected to your

computer via the cable, it isn't syncing your files via the cable but is transferring them across and syncing them

WIRELESSLY.

I was informed that this is an Apple restriction (told this by Photosmith)........

The problem I'm currently having is that to put my images that have had the Photosmith treatment onto my computer so

that the ratings, stars, flag colours are also transferred, well..... currently I don't have a way because in my case

Lightroom doesn't import directly from my iPad very easily (it hangs for a very long time when I connect it to the computer

and try to import the photos from it as if it's a hard disk ).

Photosmith are aware of this problem and I'm waiting for them to get back to me.

So, for me, right now, I'm contemplating two things........

1) returning Photosmith back and getting a refund

2) sending back my iPad and getting a refund.

Because in my experience of iPad so far, is that it's a wonderful, beautiful little flat slim metallic marvel, but Apple are

extremely strict on how it communicates when connected with your computer. They REALLY want you to use iTunes for

that and not much else.

That's kinda okay if iTunes works Perfectly every time....... but it doesn't. Yesterday I wanted to transfer 7 photographs I

sifted down to from that 47 back upto my iPad into a new album to show off and itunes would only upload 6.

However, if you do use only iTunes to transfer your images to and fro between your computer and your iPad, any images that have been worked on in Photosmith will not have those changes carried over as well (which if you're using Photosmith for that purpose, defeats the very object of the exercise !)

That is the frustration I'm having with all of this and before all of this, my life was soooooo much simpler !

So, to the Original Poster of this thread, I'd say to please continue to do your research as thoroughly as you are doing, but I'm of the opinion that you may well solve your current problem only to find that you'll experience other limitations and restrictions later on.

Good luck,

Jez

<p>I recently treated myself to a Sekonic Light Meter, the L-758DR.</p>

<p>I've just about managed to calibrate it using the Profile Target II card.</p>

<p>I'm now learning about the Mid-tone, Dynamic Range and Clipping Points on this meter which can all be set once your Camera has been calibrated.</p>

<p>What the manual doesn't explain, is what Clipping Points actually means.</p>

<p>Please, could someone explain this to me ?</p>

<p>For my camera, a D700, the Sekonic software has calculated that my camera's dynamic range is 5.7EV and the Clipping Point Preset range is 4.5EV</p>

<p>Kind regards,</p>

<p>Jez</p>

<p>If I were you, I'd purchase the D700 and be done with it.</p>

<p>Why ?? Because whichever route you take you'll be buying into a system. Once you are in that system (my suggestion being the FX, FF system) you need to make sure you'll be happy to be in there for a very long time.</p>

<p>And I've yet to meet anyone who's gone from FX->DX, it's always DX->FX (though of course lot of people do stay in DX and are very happy being there).</p>

<p>But you've already said you purchase for the long term. DX is not long term thinking in my opinion, you'll be selling it and upgrading to FX ONE day I'm sure (most serious photographers eventually do), and then you'll have the added problem of selling off your gear at knockdown prices. That's not long-term thinking !</p>

<p>The only problem you currently have is budget. Landscapes = wide angles, Sports and Wildlife = telephotos etc and you only have $3000. That's not enough money for a D700 body and lenses to cover that entire range of subject matter in one purchase hit.</p>

<p>So you have three options; Either buy 2nd Hand (risky with bodies IMO), or sticking to one photographic genre to start with (either Landscapes OR Sports & Wildlife) and buy a good lens to suit that ONE genre, or purchase several Prime Lenses (which could actually work out cheaper if you do your homework properly).</p>

<p>Whichever option you go for - DO NOT SKIMP ON GOOD LENSES.</p>

<p>In my case, I'm only really interested in Landscapes (and some street photography), so my 4 primes are more than sufficient (20 AIS, 24 AIS, 35 AF & 50 AF). If I ever get another lens it'll be the 85 AF and I really think I'm done (my view being that the higher up the focal length tree I go, the greater the need for AF, so in my case, for landscapes, the 20 and 24mm lenses were fine being manual focus and I saved money there as I already had these two before I got the D700).</p>

<p>I also, personally, don't like zooms for 3 reasons; their huge price, their huge intimidating size and weight, and the style of photography a zoom encourages you to participate in (for me) so there also, are some reasons to get you thinking about primes vs zooms.</p>

<p>Whichever you take, take your time and good luck in your final decison !</p>

<p>P.S. Canon is a very good make, but I know next to nothing about their camera range.</p>

<p>This is really a tough question only because no one can decide for you.</p>

<p>Personally, at my photographic level I take better documentary style photos with my P&S and better Landscape type shots with my more serious cameras.</p>

<p>So if it were me, I'd take just my P&S and enjoy my holiday with the people I'm going with.</p>

<p>I recently went on a once-in-a-lifetime group holiday where I was the only one with a serious interest in photography and a 'serious' camera (my LX3 P&S - I left my D300 at home). I know I was a pain because I was always lagging waaaay behind (didn't help it being a trekking holiday to Mount Everest Base Camp !).</p>

<p>Don't regret my decision as I still managed to get pictures I was proud of and still managed to make a few people go wow (http://www.yarnex.co.uk/nepal2009)</p>

<p>And I also enjoyed my holiday to the max.</p>

<p>Again, if you're like me (heaven forbid), your serious gear is for taking serious, carefully considered and thought out photographs and your G1, skillfully used, will serve you magnificently on your vacation.</p>

<p>Whatever your decision, have a great time !!</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Hello Ray,</p>

<p>I find the strong title of your thread interesting ! Are you still sure that's what you are going to do ??!!</p>

<p>Ray, as Scott says, a Camera is a *tool*. They all pretty much do the same thing. The Aperture in the lens opens larger and closes smaller and the shutter can be varied to increase or decrease the time it stays open.</p>

<p>Not too long ago, these parts on a cameras operated near identically, i.e. an Olympus camera's shutter speed could be varied in 1, 2, 4, 8, 15, 30, 60, 125, steps etc etc and so could a Canon's and so could a Nikon's etc etc. Same for lenses (f2, f2.8, f4 etc). All pretty much the same.</p>

<p>So can you see that if they all do things pretty much the same, taking great pictures must boil down to something other than the camera.</p>

<p>That something else, as most people have already said, is KNOWLEDGE.</p>

<p>I kinda disagree with Scott (no offense Scott !) in that I wouldn't necessarily advise to 'get out and shoot things' because until you know HOW to use a camera, UNDERSTAND light and lighting, I believe 'getting out and shooting' may frustrate you further (it may, it may not). </p>

<p>So the BEST advice I can give you, is to join a Photography Class.</p>

<p>I promise you won't regret it.</p>

<p>I currently have in AIS;<br>

20mm f3.5,<br>

24mm f2.8,<br>

50mm f1.4.</p>

<p>I'll also be adding a further AIS;<br>

35mm f2.</p>

<p>And for portraits etc I'm contemplating getting an 85mm f1.4 AF.</p>

<p>In my opinion (owning a D700 and an F3HP), it boils down to;</p>

<p>size and weight and what suits my style of photography. I shoot landscapes with a tripod. I don't need big heavy zooms with autofocus because I can focus myself and it need not be speedily carried out.</p>

<p>I also like the fact that pretty much all my lenses use the one filter size (52mm).</p>

<p>If such a zoom could be made which was the size of one of my primes, I'd then question how I like to photograph - I prefer being involved in the picture taking process more with a Prime lens than a Zoom. So, although this is a hypothetical point, it still shows to me where my heart is with regards to primes vs zooms.</p>

<p>However, were I to need a long reach lens, where my movement is either restricted or wouldn't make much difference to the composition, then I wouldn't hesitate to look at a long reaching zoom (say 70-300). But I really don't need it for the type of photography I like doing.</p>

<p>So my ideal lens set up would be the 20, 24, 35, 85 (I don't use the 50mm hardly at all and am considering selling mine).</p>

<p>And I totally agree that the current Pro zooms look very intimidating (more so with their lens hoods attached).</p>

<p>Derek,</p>

<p>I would use them (in fact I only have AIS lenses and love using them on my D700).</p>

<p>Remember though that if you purchase a DX camera (and not an FX one), all those lenses will in fact have their focal lengths extended by a factor of x1.5. So for example, that 28mm lens on a DX camera would become the equivalent of a 42mm on a 35mm film or FF digital camera. Only full-frame digital Nikons (D700, D3 etc) would treat that 28mm as a true 28mm.</p>

<p>Hi Scott,</p>

<p>Thanks for the advice, but I need the money as I wish to purchase a Hasselblad.</p>

<p>So it's far better that it goes to someone who'll make more use of it.</p>

<p>The F3HP I'll definitely be using - the F2AS should really be in a collection.</p>

<p>Robert,</p>

<p>Thank you sooooo much for that link for Sover Wong - what an interesting man and website !!</p>

<p>Do you know where he's based in the UK ??</p>

<p>Sorry Shun, my error.</p>

<p>Yes, good advice, I'll shoot a test roll over the next few days and see how it turns out.</p>

<p>Thanks everyone for all the advice. It's much appreciated and reassuring to hear.</p>

<p>Hi Shun,</p>

<p>No the class I'm attending uses 35mm b&w film for the entire year. So it won't be just one roll. And to be honest, since going on this course I've really enjoyed getting back into Film photography (I love it).</p>

<p>Jez</p>

<p>Thank you everyone for your responses.</p>

<p>Now I'm back from the storage place, I've checked the camera over carefully. I put a brand new battery in it and I went through each shutter setting tripping the shutter at least 10 times for each shutter speed. Everything sounds correct and the camera feels super tight.</p>

<p>Yes, I will be keeping this camera for a lifetime as it was a camera I treated myself to after I graduated.</p>

<p>I also have a mint F2AS in black with a mint DS-22 Aperture Priority unit, and a mint-- (or exc+++) MD1-MB2 (can't remember the codes to be honest, but it was the top of the line F2 5fps drive), but I am going to be selling that soon to fund a Hasselblad purchase. </p>

<p>Do you think I'd be better off selling the F2AS combo fully serviced or just sell it as is ?? My thoughts are to just sell it as is - not for financial reasons but to let the new owner decide to service it or not and at which service center.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Hi,</p>

<p>I've never been in this situation before which is why it'd be interesting to hear what others think I should do.</p>

<p>I had a Nikon F3HP in storage for 6 years and got it out today for the simple reason that I am doing a photography course which stipulates a film camera is to be used (else I'd use my digital).</p>

<p>This camera is in brand new mint condition and I bought it new in 1987. </p>

<p>I'd say it's had no more than 40 rolls of film through it. I'm wondering, should I have it serviced before attempting to use it ??</p>

<p>I've tripped the shutter a good few times and all seems well.</p>

<p>If I were to just use it straight with no servicing, could I damage it in any way do you think ??</p>

<p>Thanks in advance.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>This is a great thread and couldn't have been better timed.</p>

<p>I agree totally with Jochen, re your shooting style. I too like to take my time when making photographs and Prime lenses make me involve myself more with the subject and I hence enjoy the entire picture taking experience far more. If I'm using a zoom, the tendency is to not use ones legs and to start snapping away (in my case). My best photographs happen with fixing the lens, using a tripod and cable release.</p>

<p>I recently purchased a D700 with no lenses as I intend using my AIS primes only. The weight and cost of 2 FX zooms was out of my league for the current timebeing and so I'll be using my 20mm f3.5, 24mm f2.8 and 50mm f1.4 lenses which I'm totally comfortable with.</p>

<p>Thank you to EVERYBODY for such wonderful replies. I have read and studied each one carefully and things are falling into place (though I find myself digging more and more deeper into this subject - which is fun!).<br>

Russ, thanks for informing me that printing is 7-stops max. That's been noted.<br>

Lex, those are fantastic new terms for me to learn more about ('luminance' is a good one !).<br>

Janne, I took a look at that link, thank you. It was a real help.<br>

And Dave, thank you once again. You are so right. BTW. I have already ordered the book "The Negative" as you suggested earlier - can't wait to get my nose into that one ! </p>

<p>I have a book where it illustrates in a table what you are referring to; <br>

The Zone system<br /> (the full 11zones, zone 0= Pure Black, Zone X=Pure White),<br>

The Dynamic Range<br /> (effectively, the 'information' range, everything except Pure Black to Pure White),<br>

and<br>

The 'textural' range<br /> (Zone II through to Zone VIII).<br>

Once again, thank you all.<br>

Kindest regards,<br>

Jez</p>

<p>Thanks Dave, I will look into that. I am re-discovering how much fun film photography can be and recently started reading about Ansel Adams. I really like his whole approach to picture taking.</p>

<p>Thanks Chris.</p>

<p>And thanks Craig to you (lots of information, some of which I'd need to look up !). I did take a look first on Ilford's site before I came on here. I didn't find anything, but I think you're right, there must be something on there, maybe I didn't look hard enough. BTW, 17 stops sounds enormous to me, I thought normal B&W with nothing special would give around 5, so 7 sounds pretty good to me (though, as mentioned, I am a learning beginner).</p>

<p>Kindest regards,</p>

<p>Jez</p>

<p>Hello there,<br>

I'm a newcomer on this website (love it) and a relative beginner. First time post.<br>

I'm taking an Evening Class in Photography and we're using B&W film. We have been assigned a project and I'm learning lots.<br>

But I am understanding exposure and am currently learning about film and it's tonal range.<br>

I'd like to know for the above named Black and White Films, using normal processing techniques (not pushing the film in any way), what tonal ranges would these give me (from black to white) ??<br>

5- stops ??<br>

6- stops ??<br>

Or something else ??<br>

I've tried looking on the Net as well as on this site, but I've found nothing specific. And what I have found hasn't got any reference to back up the claim.<br>

Kindest regards,<br>

Jez</p>